Complete Guide to the Nikon D200- P16 ppsx

V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 451  Recommendation: 1. A good idea, but not fully fleshed out. There are more things I’d like to be warned about than shooting in black and white. And I’d like to control which warnings would appear and which wouldn’t (otherwise you could end up with a lot of overlay icons in the image area). Most users should probably leave the warnings enabled. Custom Setting #D4 Continuous Low Shooting Speed (CL-Mode Shooting Speed) The D200 is a responsive camera. In either of the continuous frame advance settings the camera can rattle off a burst of more images than you might expect from a single shutter press. Continuous High always shoots at 5 fps. But you can vary the speed at which Continuous Low operates: 4fps 4 frames per second 3fps 3 frames per second [default] 2fps 2 frames per second 1fps 1 frame per second  Recommendation: V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 452 1. Keep your camera set at one of the lower speeds (I leave mine set at 1 fps). This gives you a continuous shooting option that doesn’t chew through card space and for which it’s easy to keep count of how many images you’re taking (at 3 fps and above you’ll lose track quickly). It also means you’re less likely to jab the shutter release hard and get multiple shots. Custom Setting #D5 Shutter Delay (Exposure Delay Mode) Like the Mirror-up function (M-Up frame advance setting), this option is used to reduce vibrations or camera shake caused by the shutter press. When activated, the camera flips the mirror up immediately upon shutter release, and then opens the shutter about 0.4 seconds later (the mirror is lowered after the shot). Off camera works normally [default] On mirror lifted 0.4 seconds before shutter opens  Recommendations: 1. Remember that exposure will be calculated before the mirror goes up. 2. Likewise, flash exposures are calculated before the mirror goes up, so you’ll see a preflash on pressing the shutter release, then the main flash 0.4 seconds later when the shutter opens. For most subjects, that’s probably okay, but be careful of subjects that will be startled by the preflash. Some people will blink in response to the preflash and have their eyes closed at the main flash. Some insects and animals will bolt on the preflash. V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 453 3. In general, I prefer this function to the M-Up frame advance function when I’m handholding the camera and not using a wired remote. The timed shutter lag also works best for static subjects (some people and animals react to hearing the mirror flip). I use M-Up when my camera is on a tripod, using a remote release, and trying to precisely time the actual picture taking for a particular moment (e.g. in macro shots trying to time when the wind stops blowing the flower). Custom Setting #D6 File Number Sequence (File Number Sequence) You may remember from the section on filenames (see page < H169>) that the D200 has two basic capabilities for naming files: file numbers are reset to 0001 by a number of actions (formatting, new card, new folder, etc.), or they aren’t reset until you hit 9999. This is where you set that behavior: Off File numbering always resets to 0001 [default] On File numbering picks up after last number Reset Same as Off but number immediately reset to highest file number in the current folder plus 1.  Recommendations: 1. Set this option to On, otherwise you’ll end up with a lot of DSC_0001 duplicate filenames on your computer, and if you aren’t disciplined about renaming files or checking for overwrites, you could easily lose images. 2. If for some reason you need to set file numbering to a specific value, use the Reset option for this setting, then put a file with a file name one less than where you want V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 454 to start numbering into the appropriate folder on your memory card (has to be the active folder), insert that card into the camera, then immediately set this option back to On. Custom Setting #D7 LCD Illumination Control (LCD Illumination) The top LCD has a yellow-green backlighting that makes it easier to see at night. To preserve power, the backlighting isn’t applied unless you specifically tell it to. By default, that is done by turning the Power switch to the illumination icon (just past the On position), which provides backlighting for about six seconds. You can change this behavior: Off Backlighting controlled by power switch [default] On Backlighting occurs when meter is active  Recommendations: 1. Nikon has made a change since the D2: the alternate setting on the D2 series was triggered by pressing any button on the camera (shutter release partway, and of the control buttons), and was of limited duration (6 seconds). Now, the system simply looks at if the camera is active (metering) and backlights the LCD during the entire time the camera is active. For some heavy-handed users (or if you have #C3 set high), that can be very long periods of time. The drawback is that battery consumption is increased by this backlighting, and it is already high when the camera is active. Thus, I say you should only set this control for situational conditions (i.e. when you need it). All other times it should be Off. V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 455 2. Most people don’t realize it, but this function is also linked to external Speedlight LCDs, and it works both ways. If you set backlighting to be On for the SB-800 using its options, that setting is applied to the camera, too! Indeed, since I’m usually shooting with a flash on the camera at night, I simply leave backlighting set on my SB- 800 and leave the camera’s #D7 option set to Off. Just remember that you’ve done this. Custom Setting #D8 Battery Type in MB-D200 (MB-D200 Battery Type) If you use AA batteries in the optional MB-D200, you need to tell the camera what type they are. That’s because different types of batteries not only have different voltages, but they also change voltage at different rates as they expire: LR6 (Alkaline) Use for AA Alkaline batteries [default] HR6 (Ni-MH) Use for rechargeable AA Nickle-Metal Hydride batteries FR6 (Lithium) Use for AA lithium batteries, such as the Eveready Lithium series ZR6 (Ni-Mn) Use for AA Nickle-Manganese batteries (rare)  Recommendation: 1. You must set this function if you use AA batteries in the MB-D200; otherwise you won’t get accurate and reliable power indication. In some cases, the camera could report the battery exhausted when it is isn’t. V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 456 2. You don’t have to set this function if you use EN-EL3e batteries in the MB-D200; the D200 detects those automatically. 3. So what type of battery should you use in the MB-D200? EN-EL3e batteries are the first choice, by far. First, they’re rechargeable, which is good for the environment. But they’ll also provide the longest shooting time and ultimately do so at the lowest expense. Using AA batteries in the MB-D200 is there as an emergency capability, in my opinion. Thus, you use what you’ve got. For me, that’s NiMH batteries, since I’m always carrying extras for use in my flash units. Lithium AA batteries are expensive, and disposing of lithium isn’t exactly something you want to do regularly—it’s not a great environmental friend, though it’s better than some of the other materials batteries have been made of. Alkaline AA batteries are cheap and ubiquitous, but they won’t last as long as NiMH or Lithium batteries. Custom Setting #E1 Flash Top Sync Speed (Flash Sync Speed) I’m not entirely sure why Nikon thought it useful to include this function. There is one useful aspect to the setting that I can see, but I can’t think of any time I might want to set my flash sync speed to 1/80. 1/250 1/250 second lower limit [default] 1/250 (Auto FP) 1/250 second lower limit, plus TTL FP with SB-800 at shutter speeds over 1/250 1/200 1/200 second lower limit 1/160 1/160 second lower limit 1/125 1/125 second lower limit etc. V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 457  Recommendations: 1. The most interesting use of this function is to restrict an external SB-800 from going into TTL FP flash mode at shutter speeds above 1/250. TTL FP uses short repeating bursts of flash, and has a maximum power of about 1/8 th that of normal i-TTL. Moreover, some photographers feel that the burst of the TTL FP system makes for slightly different edge definition on moving subjects. If you have an SB-800 and TTL flash isn’t working at shutter speeds above 1/250 (the SB-800’s LCD also won’t show TTL FP), this is the setting to check. Bookmark that in your brain, because it’ll come up some day, especially if you reset Custom Settings banks. 2. I said I couldn’t think of a reason to include the slower shutter speed limits. That’s not true. One reason would be to force the D200 to operate like a backup camera, which might not have the same top flash sync speed. With two cameras shooting the same scene with slightly different shutter speeds you can get different edge effects on moving objects, which you might not want (if you had two photographers covering a wedding, for example, and were trying to seamlessly integrate the pictures). Still, that’s a pretty weak reason to use this function (and it would probably mean you’d need to be shooting in Shutter-priority exposure mode, as in Program and Aperture-priority you’d be getting the other end of the shutter speed range). Custom Setting #E2 Flash Shutter Speed Barrier (Slowest Speed When Using Flash) The section on flash that comes later in the eBook (see “Setting Flash Options” on page < H494>) describes an option V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 458 called Slow Sync. Essentially, the camera places a lower limit on the shutter speed that can be used when flash is active unless you tell it to ignore that limit. Custom Setting #E2 allows you to modify the limit (and the Slow Sync option allows you to remove the limit): 1/60 1/60 second lower limit [default] 1/30 1/30 second lower limit 1/15 1/15 second lower limit 1/8 1/8 second lower limit 1/4 1/4 second lower limit  Recommendations: 1. I believe everyone should set at least 1/30. Nikon’s 1/60 default is very conservative, and will cause problems in most indoor lighting situations (for the reason why, read the full flash section). 2. I personally set 1/15 because I know I can usually hand hold the camera to that level when using flash as I describe, and it’s the slowest speed where subject motion in the ambient exposure doesn’t become a constant problem (it may be a bit of a problem at 1/15, but I watch for that). Custom Setting #E3 Flash Mode for Internal Flash (Built-in Flash Mode) I wish Nikon had set flash mode up differently (e.g. put the flash mode control into the Flash Pop-up button in conjunction with the command dials). Because buried down in the Custom Settings menus, and requiring multiple settings V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 459 for some functions, partially negates a very useful feature. Nikon needed a way to control what method the internal flash uses when it’s popped up, and this is where we set that. Just be forewarned that this gets a little involved (especially if you haven’t read the flash section that starts on page <480> yet): TTL TTL used for flash mode [default] Manual Manual flash mode Repeating Flash Repeating flash mode Commander Mode Internal flash used to control other flashes  If you set Manual Flash, you also need to select a power setting (see the section on Internal Manual flash on page < H507> for GNs):  If you set Repeating Flash, you also need to set the power setting (suddenly renamed Output in this menu by Nikon), the number of times to repeat the flash during the shot, and the interval at which the flash is repeated. This is a little complex to figure out, as there’s an interaction between your shutter speed, Times, and Interval that potentially gives you V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 460 something other than you want (see my Recommendations, below):  If you set Commander Mode, you’re telling the camera that want to use the internal flash for wireless flash control. You then need to set the flash mode and flash exposure compensation for each and every flash group, including the internal flash (I’ll have more to say about this in the section on wireless flash on page < H511>):  Recommendations: 1. If you’re going to use Repeating Flash, start by first establishing a shutter speed you’re going to use. Let’s say your shutter speed will be 1/60. Next, use Interval to determine how many flashes will be fired a second. An interval of 1Hz means 1 times a second, so we need to divide the lower value of our shutter speed (60) into this, which tells us that we could have as many as 1 flash while the shutter is open, which obviously isn’t going to generate a “repeating” flash effect. By contrast, if your shutter speed was 1/2 and your Interval was 10hz, you could get as many as 5 flashes into your shot. You’ll need to jigger your shutter speed and Interval until you get a [...]... set this to match your other Nikon DSLR camera body The default mimics the consumer bodies, the alternative mimics the pro bodies Why consumers and pros go different directions in Nikon s wisdom is not something I know the answer to Custom Setting #F4 FUNC Button Setting (Assign FUNC Button) The FUNC button on the front of the camera can be programmed to do one of many useful things: FV Lock The flash... vertical grip Essentially you reassign the AF-ON button to be the AEThom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 470 V1.03 L/AF-L button and then use this option to give you a new AF-ON button ability Thanks for playing along, but it all starts to get confusing when you’re using multiple settings to make multiple changes to multiple buttons, don’t you think? Custom Setting #F3 Direction Pad Scrolling... the D200, there’s just enough of a pause between the preflash and main flash that you might get “blinkers” (people blinking in reaction to the pre-flash) If you do, this is the solution: press the FUNC button to get a flash reading and then shoot away; the camera won’t preflash again until you press the FUNC button again to restore normal preflash (Note: the flash has to be in a TTL mode for this to. .. can with the other 2 If you also use any Nikon film body that doesn’t have all these custom functions (e.g D50), leave the D200 set on the defaults, otherwise you’re likely to get confused when you move back and forth between bodies Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 476 V1.03 3 Likewise, this is a nice April Fool’s joke to pull on Nikon 117 users Just change the options to Reverse,... until you release the FUNC button) Matrix Metering Matrix metering is active when the FUNC button is held down Center-Weighted Center-weighted metering is active when the FUNC button is held down Spot Metering Spot metering is active when the FUNC button is held down Focus Frame Area When the FUNC button is held down the Rear Command dial allows you to Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page... when moving amongst autofocus sensor selections 2 Note that this is another area where the D200 can be configured to work differently than all previous Nikon SLR bodies (other than the D2 series), so if you use multiple bodies, you might want to consider leaving the camera at the default 3 This is another attempt (the Initiate Autofocus option) to make up for the lost button on the MB-D200 vertical... once and the value for flash locked when the button Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 471 V1.03 is pressed; a second press cancels FV Lock [default] FV Lock/Lens Data If a flash is active, then same as above If no flash is active, then holding the button in and rotating the Front Command dial changes the maximum aperture for a non-CPU lens while holding the button in and rotating the Rear... equivalent to the left/right actions on the Direction pad, the Front Command dial is equivalent to the up/down actions) Recommendations: 1 I don’t have a problem with the way Nikon designed things to work, and perhaps other than the ability to use the aperture ring option don’t see any compelling features here At least the D200 has both Command dials on the MB-D200 vertical release, so you don’t get into a... Thumbnail On/Off Toggles display of thumbnail view [default] Histogram On/Off Toggles display of histogram view Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 468 V1.03 Zoom On/Off Toggles zoom (with preset, user defined zoom amount) If you select Zoom On/Off, you also get to pick the zoom amount that you toggle to and from: Recommendation: 1 Histogram On/Off and Zoom On/Off seem the most useful... one-button spot metering at my fingertips; it’s also easy to see the change in exposure settings as I press and release the button 4 Flash Off might not sound like a useful function at first, but think again If you’re trying to quickly evaluate the Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 473 V1.03 ambient/flash balance in exposures (i.e how much impact the flash is having), being able to hold the . 454 to start numbering into the appropriate folder on your memory card (has to be the active folder), insert that card into the camera, then immediately set this option back to On. Custom. but this custom setting allows you to not move your hand positions to trigger the modeling light: V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 462 On DOF Preview button triggers. Thumbnail On/Off Toggles display of thumbnail view [default] Histogram On/Off Toggles display of histogram view V1.03 Thom Hogan’s Complete Guide to the Nikon D200 Page 469 Zoom On/Off Toggles zoom