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Trends for cotton yield, pesticide use, and the percentage of total cotton growing area planted to Bt cotton Figure 2.3.3.. INTRODUCTION Fast fashion is commonly defined as the rapid pro

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VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HO CHI MINH CITY

INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY SCHOOL OF BUSINESS

ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE

Report

WILL FAST FASHION BE A DANGER FOR OUR ENVIRONMENT?

Phan Nguyễn Hùng Cường ITDSIU21078

Ho Chi Minh City, December 2023

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Lists of figures

| INTRODUCTION

2.1 Waste Accumulation

2.2 Micro-plastic

2.3 Pesticide for cotton production

2.4 Water pollution

10

12

13

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Lists of figures

Figure 2.1 Growth in global population and textile production by fiber type

Figure 2.2.1 Estimated fibers released from wash

Figure 2.2.2 Textiles waste management: 1960 - 2018

Figure 2.2.3 Percentage of microplastics in the water

Figure 2.2.4 Health effect of microplastic exposure on health

Figure 2.2.5 MPs in sea salts (n/kg)

Figure 2.3.1 GHGs emissions of inputs in cotton production (kg CO2e ha‘)

Figure 2.3.2 Trends for cotton yield, pesticide use, and the percentage of total cotton growing area planted to Bt cotton

Figure 2.3.3 Pesticide poisoning - Agricultural use

Figure 2.4.1 Leading cotton production worldwide in 2022/2023

Figure 2.4.2 Annual baseline water stress

Figure 2.4.3 Black water runs through the manufacturing district of Savar, in the Bangladesh capital Dnaka

Figure 3 Jordan 15

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INTRODUCTION

Fast fashion is commonly defined as the rapid production of affordable clothing designed to imitate current fashion trends This swift production aims to enhance a company's stylistic and contemporary image for consumers

In the realm of fast fashion, designs are commonly coined as "dupes," a term prevalent in social media circles referring to garments inspired by, and at times, unmistakably emulating luxurious looks donned by celebrities or featured on renowned designer runways, spanning the fashion capitals from New York to Paris The primary aim of brands and manufacturers is

to swiftly place these designs into the hands of consumers precisely when they're in vogue, all while maintaining an enticing affordability There are some characteristics of fast fashion:

- Rapid Production: Clothing is swiftly produced, often within weeks of the inception

of a trend

- Brief Styles: The fashion landscape undergoes constant changes, with items having a brief presence in stores

- Budget-Friendly: Pricing is deliberately kept low by minimizing production expenses

- Trend Emulation: Designs frequently mimic high-end fashion trends and runway styles

- Global Manufacturing: Production predominantly occurs in countries with lower labor and production costs

Il ©=ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS OF FAST FASHION

2.1.Waste Accumulation

The environmental impact of the fast fashion industry is increasingly alarming In the United States, the situation is particularly dire, with each individual discarding an average

of 81.5 pounds of clothing every year This behavior contributes to the massive amount of textile waste accumulating in landfills, estimated at 11.3 million tons annually Globally, the fast fashion industry is responsible for over 92 million tonnes of waste each year, which starkly highlights the unsustainable nature of current consumption patterns

The industry not only generates waste but also significantly impacts clothing utilization Compared to 15 years ago, the average clothing is now worn 36% less This is a worldwide trend, with Western countries and rapidly industrializing nations like China experiencing a dramatic 70% decrease in clothing utilization over the same period The fast fashion model, characterized by rapid production and short-lived garment use, exacerbates these issues

Furthermore, fast fashion is a substantial contributor to global environmental degradation,

accounting for about 20% of the world's wastewater and 8.1% of global greenhouse gas

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emissions The water consumption is staggering; for instance, producing just one kilogram

of cotton requires about 20,000 liters of water The industry's reliance on synthetic materials like nylon and polyester has also led to significant ocean pollution, with nearly 10% of microplastics in the oceans originating from textiles

@ Cotton @ Polyester @ Non-cotton cellulosics

@ Polyamide @ Polypropylene @ Other - Population

Figure 2.1 Growth in global population and textile production by fiber type Economically, the repercussions are just as severe The industry's practices result in an estimated $500 billion lost annually due to the under-use and lack of recycling of clothes Additionally, a worrying 87% of the total fiber input used for clothing is either incinerated

or ends up in landfills In the United States, less than 1% of the materials used in clothing manufacturing are recycled into new clothing, leading to a vast amount of post-consumer waste

2.2.Micro-plastic

The rise in popularity of synthetic fibers is closely associated with fast fashion, as the necessity for them stems from the quick and inexpensive production of goods For fast fashion brands, polyester is a practical option, but the environment does not share the same sentiments (Jennie, 2022)

Approximately 60% of the material utilized in clothing fabrication consists of plastic, encompassing polyester, acrylic, and nylon textiles These synthetic fabrics are favored for

their attributes of being lightweight, durable, cost-effective, and flexible However, a

significant drawback arises during the washing process when they release minuscule plastic

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fibers known as microfibers, categorized as a form of microplastics with dimensions up to five millimeters

Acrylic Per wash (6 kg)

728,789

Polyester

496,030

Polyester-cotton blend

Figure 2.2.1 Estimated fibers released from wash The act of laundering alone results in the discharge of approximately half a million tons of plastic microfibers into the ocean annually, equivalent to almost three billion polyester shirts This environmental impact transpires because water treatment facilities permit up to 40% of

the microfibers, they receive to enter lakes, rivers, and oceans due to their diminutive size

Notably, many treatment plants lack the mandate to capture these microfibers, contributing to the pervasive issue of plastic pollution in aquatic ecosystems

20,000,000 15,000,000

10,000,000

5,000,000

1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2005 2010 2015 2017 2018

Year

Click on legend items below to customize items displayed in the chart

MM Recycled Composted Öƒ Combustion with Energy Recovery Landfilled

Figure 2.2.2 Textiles waste management: 1960 - 2018 The graph illustrates a noteworthy transformation in textile waste management practices over the last five decades Amidst the rapid expansion of the fashion industry, the annual

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production of textile waste has surged from just over 5 million tons in 1995 to approximately

17 million tons in 2018 Notably, nearly 12 million tons of this textile waste generated in

2018 ended up in landfills, posing a challenge as they are currently non-recyclable

2,0%

37%

7,0%

0,3%

35,0 %

24.0%

Plastic pellets Personal care products

Marine coatings © @ Road markings

@ Synthetic textiles Ỷ

Figure 2.2.3 Percentage of microplastics in the water

As per the graph, the fashion industry emerges as a significant contributor, responsible for 35% of the microplastics present in the sea and stands out as the primary source of these microscopic pollutants in our oceans The enduring nature of microplastics, given their lack

of biodegradability, poses a considerable threat, particularly to wildlife However, the implications extend to humans, as animals ingest microplastics through their food, thereby integrating these particles into our food system and, subsequently, our bodies

Health Effects of Microplastic Exposure:

Current Issues and Perspectives in the Republic of Korea

Health effects Oxidative stress

ie g Neurotoxicity

Carcinogenicity

Altered metabolism

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s-

Q> vĩ

Foam — Fragments,

Figure 2.2.4 Health effect of microplastic exposure on health

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= = + on

e225 Ssssẽ caw f°

=o 3 = @ oe o°

to Ssy ° 2 9 ; ¢

H56

a

: Log (MPs in sea salts)

MPs in sea salts (n/kg)

Figure 2.2.5 MPs in sea salts (n/kg)

39 salt brands from diverse geographic locations revealed varying levels of microplastic (MP) content Sea salts, particularly those from Asian countries/regions, exhibited a wide spectrum

of MP concentrations The investigation found distinct MP content ranges in sea salts, rock salt, and lake salt Notably, unrefined sea salts displayed significant correlations with plastic emissions from global rivers and MP pollution levels in the surrounding seawater This underscores the potential of sea salt as an effective indicator of the magnitude of MP pollution in the nearby marine environment, emphasizing Asia's substantial role in global plastic pollution

2.3.Pesticide for cotton production

Despite only occupying 2.4% of the world’s cropland, cotton uses tremendous amounts of

pesticides; it is responsible for roughly one-fifth of global insecticide use (McKinsey & Company 2020) This results in serious harm to nontarget insects such as endangered rusty- patched bumble bees and monarch butterflies On top of its enormous pesticide use, conventional cotton, which accounts for most cotton grown, requires a significant amount of water during the growing process

The cotton used in a single pair of denim jeans requires roughly 10,000 liters of water, an amount equal to what the average person would drink over ten years (UN Climate Change, 2018) And the water that runs off cotton fields carries a heavy pesticide load Pesticides used

in the growing of cotton and other crops have also been found to have harmful effects on biodiversity The textile industry is estimated to account for between 10-20% of global pesticide use (McKinsey & Company, 2021)

Organisms can be exposed to chemicals either directly through application or indirectly through runoff, contamination, or secondary poisoning (Beyond Pesticides) Exposure to pesticides is linked to a wide array of health concerns in various species including birds,

small mammals, insects, fish, and humans These health concerns consist of reproductive

effects, neurotoxicity, endocrine effects, and liver and kidney damage (Beyond Pesticides)

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Such harmful effects can occur after minimal exposure, as reproductive abnormalities have been observed in multiple species following “safe” levels of exposure as classified by the

United States Environmental Protection Agency (Beyond Pesticides)

At the beginning of the production process, pesticides can cause harm to workers as they have been linked to acute and chronic health issues including reproductive disorders, neurological disorders, respiratory conditions, certain cancers, and death (Farmworker Justice, 2013) In garment factories, workers are exposed to occupational hazards including respiratory harm from chemicals and musculoskeletal harm from repeated motions (Islam, 2022)

1000,0

847,7 859,7

800,0

492,8 490,6

ertilizer Productio

600,0 400,0 198,9 198,0

Management

200,0 0,0

2020 82021

435,7 380,3 Energy us

65,1 66,8

mm

Transport

field)

Figure 2.3.1 GHGs emissions of inputs in cotton production (kg CO2e ha‘)

metric tons

of insecticide

12000 %

10000

8000

6000

4000

kg/ha

600

400

% Bt cotton (0 to 95%}

2000

for hemipteran.control

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

100

0

Figure 2.3.2 Trends for cotton yield, pesticide use, and the percentage of total cotton

growing area planted to Bt cotton

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4500

4000

3500

3000

2500

2000

1500

1000

0

0

ụ Ss

Figure 2.3.3 Pesticide poisoning - Agricultural use 2.4.Water pollution

Making a cheap garment requires cheap materials such as synthetic polyester cotton, elastane, viscose, and nylon (Zuniga, 2023) These ingredients are damaging the water source and reducing the amount of fresh water for humans and other organisms

Cotton can impact the amount of fresh water A study shows that a kilogram of cotton

requires a large amount of water, from 7.000 to 29.000 liters (Mikolajczak, 2019) The graph below shows the top 10 countries that produce cotton between 2022 and 2023 compared to the map of baseline water stress

Leading cotton producing countries worldwide in 2022/2023 (in 1,000 metric tons)

Figure 2.4.1 Leading cotton production worldwide in 2022/2023

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TE Wedunrhigh (20-40%)

I) Lowmesium (10-20%)

Lơm (<10%) HEE Arid ond low water Lee

Note: Baseline water stress measures the ratio of total water withdrawals to available renewable water supplies Water vithdrawals include domestic,

industrial, irrigation and livestock consumptive and non-consumptive uses Available renewable water supplies include surface and grouncwater supplies and

considers the impact of upstream consumptive water users and large dams on downstream water availability Higher values indicate more competition among Source: WRI (2019) Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)

Figure 2.4.2 Annual baseline water stress Two tables show some similarities between the cotton production and the water stress of each area shown The United States and Brazil are two of the least affected by water stress

Meanwhile, cotton farming in Eastern China, Pakistan, Mali, Turkey, and India has been

affected by water stress Water becomes more priceless due to only having 4% of water sources while carrying more than 1.4 billion people (The World Bank, 2023) The more clothing is produced, the more cotton will be produced, which requires more water This action takes away water for local people to have access to water, which can affect people's health negatively Water shortage can affect ecosystems from drought, living things that

cannot have water to survive, and more People who drink unsafe water can suffer from

cholera, diarrhea, dysentery, hepatitis A, typhoid, and polio (World Health Organization, 2023)

Microplastic wastes in the ocean have become one of the biggest environmental crises in which clothing takes apart The unforeseen consequences of microplastics from clothing wastes are damaging the marine environment Fish can be unhealthier, and the population of fish will be reduced by malnutrition (Hasan, 2023)

Chemical waste becomes the most dangerous aspect of the quality of water Besides pesticides, the color dye also contains toxic chemicals in the environment in general aquatic ecosystem Many fast fashion products in the store in United States and Europe might made

in Bangladesh The capital of Bangladesh, especially the river in Savar district has turned into

a dark color caused by toxic waste (Regan, 2020) Ma, who is an environmentalist expressed about water pollution in Bangladesh and that this water can irritate the skin and cause fever However, people in this place have no choice but to use this water The effect of the water is fatal For example, Azo dye can irritate the skin and eyes by consuming it by oral or

inhalation Textiles can also have a genotoxic effect and can cause cancer The disposal of

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