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textile fibers, dyes, finishes, and processes a concise guide

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[...]... COPOLYMER IVAABABABBBAIV RANDOM COPOLYMER 'vA A A AAA-v I B B B /VAAAAAArv CROSSLINKED COPOLYMER Figure 1-3 B B IVAA~AA ~A' " GRAFT COPOLYMER IVAAAA BBBBAAAABBBIV BLOCK COPOLYMER Copolymer structures Polymer Formation Synthetic polymers used to form fibers are often classified on the basis of their mechanism of polymerization step growth (condensation) or chain growth (addition) polymerization Step growth... natural and man-made fibers FIBER CLASSIFICATION Textile fibers are normally broken down into two main classes, natural and man-made fibers All fibers which come from natural sources (animals, plants, etc.) and do not require fiber formation or reformation are classed as natural fibers Natural fibers include the protein fibers such as wool and silk, the cellulose fibers such as cotton and linen, and the... Finishes Softeners and Abrasion Resistant Finishes Stiffening and Weighting Agents Laminating Agents Crease Resistant and Stabilizing Finishes Protective Finishes Photo protective Agents and Antioxidants Oil and Water Repellents Antistats Biologically Active Finishes Flame Retardants Finishes Applied to Fiber Classes Finishes for Cellulosics Crease Resistant and Auxiliary Finishes Oil and Water Repellent... IDENTIFICATION AND CHARACTERIZATION Fiber Identification Microscopic Identification Solubility Heating and Burning Characteristics Density or Specific Gravity Staining Structural, Physical, and Chemical Characterization Optical and Electron Microscopy Elemental and End-Group Analysis Infrared Spectroscopy Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy X-Ray Diffraction Thermal Analysis... flame is removed Heat stability is particularly important to a fiber during dyeing and finishing of the textile and during cleaning and general maintenance by the consumer Textile fibers for the most part are made up of organic polymeric materials containing carbon and burn on ignition from a flame or other propagating source The chemical structure of a fiber establishes its overall flammability characteristics,... Detergency and Surfactants Detergency and Soil Removal Surfactants Soap Anionic Surfactants Nonionic Surfactants Cationic Surfactants Amphoteric Surfactants Laundering and Laundry Formulations Laundering Laundry Formulation Builders Anti-Soil-Redeposition Agents Corrosion Inhibitors Foam Modifiers Electrolytes and Fillers Bleaches and Fluorescent Brighteners Germ icides Perfume Fabric Softener Starches... This compares to the individual o molecular chains, which vary from 300 to 1500 A in length and which are usually part of both crystal I ine and amorphous areas of the polymer and therefore give continuity and association of the various crystal I ine and amorphous areas within the fiber A number of theories have been developed to explain the interconnection of crystal I ine and amorphous areas in the... concerning the arrangement of crystalline and amorphous areas within a fiber Individual crystal 1ine areas in a 16 Textile Fibers, Dyes, Finishes, and Processes fiber are often referred to as microfibrils into Microfibrils can associate larger crystalline groups, which are called fibrils Microfibrils are 30-100 A (lO-le meters) or micelles in length, whereas fibrils and o micelles are usually 200-600 A in length... flammability characteristics, and appropriate textile finishes can reduce the degree of flammability A number of Federal, state, and local statutes eliminate the most dangerous flammable fabrics from the marketplace Primary Fiber Properties from an Engineering Perspective The textile and polymer engineer must consider a number of criteria essential for formation, fabrication, and assembly of fibers into textile. .. methods are outl ined below schematically: 12 Textile Fibers , Dyes, Finishes, and Processes Step growth : Chain growth: nA ~ In AA ~ nA ~ (A) n ln AAAA ~ nA ~ (A) n nA ~ (A) n The average number of monomer repeating units in a polymer chain (n) is often referred to also as the degree of polymerization, DP The DP must exceed an average 20 units in most cases to give a polymer of s ufficient molecular size . 1950s, and 1960s. In less than 40 years we have gone from a period where fibers were available only from natural or regenerated sources to a time where a broad spectrum of fibers are available. The wide range of properties available in fibers today has greatly expanded the applications and areas in which fibers can be used. Even with such a range of properties available in fibers , each class of fiber has. Blackwell, A. L. Blackard, C. W. Stackhouse and M. W. Alexander TEXTILE FIBERS, DYES, FINISHES, AND PROCESSES A Concise Guide by Howard L. Needles University of California, Davis Davis, Cal ifornia Copyright © 1986 by Howard L. Needles No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from the Publisher. Library of Congress. 1-1. Classification of natural and man-made fibers. FIBER CLASSIFICATION Textile fibers are normally broken down into two main classes, natural and man-made fibers. All fibers which come from natural

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