Research on extraction of color pigments and essential oil from organic materials for lipstick trials (khóa luận tốt nghiệp)

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE FACULTY OF BIOTECHNOLOGY -  - GRADUATIONN THESIS TITLE: RESEARCH ON EXTRACTION OF COLOR PIGMENTS AND ESSENTIAL OIL FROM ORGANIC MATERIALS FOR LIPSTICK TRIALS Hanoi, 3/2021 VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE FACULTY OF BIOTECHNOLOGY -  - GRADUATIONN THESIS TITLE: RESEARCH ON EXTRACTION OF COLOR PIGMENTS AND ESSENTIAL OIL FROM ORGANIC MATERIALS FOR LIPSTICK TRIALS Student : Ta Hong Ngoc Faculty : Biotechnology Supervisors : Nguyen Thi Thuy Hanh, PhD Nguyen Thi Hien, PhD Hanoi, 3/2021 COMMITMENT I hereby declare that: This is my study, which was conducted under the guidance of the supervisors; All data provided are true and accurate; All published data and information have been duly cited Hanoi, January 24th 2021 Student Ta Hong Ngoc i ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Firstly, I am grateful to express my gratitude to the Department of Biotechnology for granting me support to pursue my thesis, Vietnam National University of Agriculture, who provided me opportunities to pursue a higher education, and to prepare myself to better I would like to express my deep gratitude to the teacher, PhD Nguyễn Thị Thúy Hạnh – Factulty of Biotechnologi in Viet Nam National University of Agriculture, who guided me through all the time working on this topic and completing this topic I owe a debt of gratitude to sincerely thank PhD Nguyễn Thị Hiển – Lecturer of Faculty of Enviroment in Viet Nam National University of Agriculture for suggesting, guiding me very wholeheartedly during my time working on the topic This is also an opportunity for me to have the opportunity to thank my family and friends, who are always there to help, support and encourage me during the process of training, studying and researching for me to complete this subject Thank you very much! Hanoi, January 24th 2021 Student Ta Hong Ngoc ii TABLE OF CONTENTS COMMITMENT i ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ii TABLE OF CONTENTS iii LIST OF TABLES vi LIST OF FIGURES vii ABSTRACT viii CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION 1.1 Purpose .2 1.2 Requirement CHAPTER II OVERVIEW 2.1 Basic information about researching material .3 2.1.1 Red dragon fruit: [4] 2.1.1.1 General introduction of red dragon fruit .3 2.1.1.2 Analysis of ingredients .3 2.1.2 Gac fruit: [5] 2.1.2.1 General introduction of gac fruit 2.1.2.2 Analysis of ingredients 2.1.3 Tumeric: [6] 2.1.3.1 General introduction of tumeric 2.1.3.2 Analysis of ingredients 2.1.4 Pomelo flower [7] 2.1.4.1 General introduction of pomelo 2.1.4.2 Analysis of ingredients 2.1.5 Organic materials compound lipstick base [8] .8 2.2 Cosmetic trendy nowaday 10 2.3 Application of researching materials 12 2.3.1 Lipstick pigment .12 2.3.2 Lipstick flavoring 13 iii CHAPTER III MATERIALS AND METHODS 15 3.1 Materials, contents and method 15 3.1.1 Material 15 3.1.2 Time and place .15 3.1.3 Equipments .15 3.2 Methods .16 3.2.1 Experiments of extraction from fruit and flower .16 3.2.1.1 Extracting pink pigment from red dragon fruit 16 3.2.1.2 Extracting yellow pigment from tumeric 16 3.2.1.3 Extracting red pigment from gac fruit 19 3.2.1.4 Extracting essential oil from pomelo flower .20 3.2.2 Experiments combining organic material and extractions making lipstick 22 3.2.2.1 Making lipstick base by organic material 22 3.2.2.2 Finding out the best formulation 23 3.2.2.3 Application of pigment extractions on coloring lipstick .23 3.2.2.4 Application of essential oil extractions on flavouring lipstick 24 CHAPTER IV RESULTS AND DISCUSSION .25 4.1 Results .25 4.1.1 Extraction result 25 4.1.1.1 Extraction result of pigment from red dragon .25 4.1.1.2 Extraction result of pigment from tumeric 26 4.1.1.3 Extraction result of pigment from gac 28 4.1.1.4 Extraction result of pomelo flowers 29 4.1.2 Trial combining material and extrction making lipstick results .30 4.1.2.1 Result of using organic materials making lipstick base 30 4.1.2.2 Result of finding out the best formualation of lipstick base .31 4.1.2.3 Result of application of pigment extractions on coloring lipstick 32 4.1.2.4 Flavouring lipstick 33 4.2 Discussion .33 iv CHAPTER V CONCLUSION AND PROPOSAL 35 5.1 Conclusion 35 5.2 Proposal 35 REFERENCES 36 v LIST OF TABLES Table 3.1 Experimental arrangement of color extraction from red dragon fruit .16 Table 3.2 Experimental arrangement of color extraction from tumeric 17 Table 3.3 Experimental arrangement of color extraction from Gac 20 Table 3.4 Experimental arrangement of essential oil extraction from pomelo flower 21 Table 3.5 Experiment evaluate the smooth and hard or soft of lipstick base .22 Table 3.6 Experiment evaluate the storage condition of lipstick base 23 Table 3.7 A mount of yellow pigment adding into lipstick base 24 Table 3.8 A mount of strong pink pigment adding into lipstick base .24 Table 3.9 A mount of red pigment adding into lipstick base 24 Table 3.10 A mount of essential oil adding into lipstick base .24 Table 4.1 Extraction result of pigment from red dragon fruit .26 Table 4.2 Extraction result of pigment from tumeric 27 Table 4.3 Extraction result of pigment from Gac 29 Table 4.4 Extraction result of pomelo flower 30 Table 4.5 Evaluation result of character of lipstick base 31 Table 4.6 Evaluation result of storage condition of fomualtion and .31 Table 4.7 Coloring lipstick results with yellow pigment (cucurminoid) 32 Table 4.8 Coloring lipstick results with strong pink pigment (betacyanin) 32 Table 4.9 Coloring lipstick results with red pigment (lycopene and beta carotene) .32 Table 4.10 Flavouring lipstick results with essential oil from pomelo flower 33 vi LIST OF FIGURES Figure 2.1 Red dragon fruit .4 Figure 2.2 Gac fruit Figure 2.3 Tumeric Figure 2.4 Pomelo flower .7 Figure 2.5 Purified beewax Figure 2.6 Purified soybean wax Figure 2.8 Olive oil .10 Figure 2.7 Coconut oil 10 Figure 2.9 Essential oil 14 Figure 3.1 Tumeric powder 17 Figure 3.2 Tumeric powder stored in box 17 Figure 3.3 Sohlet system 18 Figure 3.4 Pigment obtain (cucurminoid) 18 Figure 3.5 Drying gac 19 Figure 3.6 Dried gac powder 19 Figure 3.7 Pigment obtained from Gac 20 Figure 3.8 Distillation system .21 Figure 3.9 Weight beewax and soybean wax .22 Figure 3.10 Mixture after adding oil 23 Figure 3.11 Adding pigment into mixture of lipstick base 23 Figure 4.1 Concerntrating mixture .25 Figure 4.2 Concerntrated mixture .25 Figure 4.3 Pigment obtained from red dragon fruit 26 Figure 4.4 Color pigment obtained from tumeric .28 Figure 4.5 Color pigment obtained from gac .28 Figure 4.6 Essential oil obtained from pomelo flower 30 vii ABSTRACT Nowadays, using compounds extracted from organic ingredients in daily life as well as in functional foods and cosmetics is a lot of interest from scientists as well as companies The use of plant-derived compounds shows many advantages over the use of compounds synthesized by chemical methods, such as: environmentally friendly, safe for users, low allergy rate, abundant raw materials… However, it also has some limitations such as: raw materials need to be ensured in terms of biosafety, technology of extracting is so complex,… Based on such need and urgency, the thesis “Research on extraction of color pigments and essential oil from organic materials for lipstick trials” was carried out, research and use natural ingredients to replace toxic ingredients in lipsticks Result of reseaching show that, we can use the extraction from fruit such as red dragon fruit, tumeric, gac and some oraganic materials to replace the toxic ingredients in industrial lipstick Beside the characters of them still are the same industrial lipstick’s viii 3.2.2.2 Finding out the best formulation Because the most important of lipstick storage condition is below 45 degrees and the lipstick is storage in a well-ventilated environment [14], so formulations which have the best result of evaluating smooth and hard or soft will be tested to evaluate the melt at other temperatures and in the same time (5 hours) as follows: Table 3.6 Experiment evaluate the storage condition of lipstick base 200C 250C 300C 350C 400C 450C 500C 550C 600C Formula X Formula Y 3.2.2.3 Application of pigment extractions on coloring lipstick After finding out the best formulation of lipstick base, the next step to getting the finished product is coloring the lipstick In this stage, it is necessary to use the pigment obtained in the above color extraction experiments and then disperse them into the melted lipstick base mixture In these experiments, we can use glass chopstick or magnetic stirrer to mix pigment with lipstick base Then, all of evaluation criteria such as pigment covarage, pigmented, smooth of pigment, sticky of pigment is base on assessed sensitively We have a small notice here is the pigment must be dispersed into the mixture when it was metl, if not, the pigment will not be Figure 3.11 Adding pigment into mixture of lipstick base dispersed And we conducted this experiment with formulas, each formular is a different amount of pigment to find out and evaluate which amount is the most suitable 23 Table 3.7 A mount of yellow pigment adding into lipstick base A mount of pigment (gr) Formula Formula Formula Formula Formula 0.5 1,5 2,5 Table 3.8 A mount of strong pink pigment adding into lipstick base A mount of pigment (gr) Formula Formula Formula Formula Formula 0.5 1,5 2,5 Table 3.9 A mount of red pigment adding into lipstick base A mount of pigment (gr) Formula Formula Formula Formula Formula 0.5 1,5 2,5 3.2.2.4 Application of essential oil extractions on flavouring lipstick In order to create perfection for a lipstick, aroma is an indispensable part, in addition to creating a scent it also provides a number of other health benefits such as analgesic, antiseptic, antimicrobial, carminative, diuretic, spasmolytic to hyperaemic and stimulatory… [16] Therefore, the essential oil of pomelo has been used to create a fragrance for lipstick According to a recent study, the maximum amount of aromatherapy in lipstick is 0-0.3% [17] So this experiment was carried out with formulas as following in table 3.10 Table 3.10 A mount of essential oil adding into lipstick base A mount of essential oil (%) Formula Formula Formula Formula 0,1 0,2 0,3 24 CHAPTER IV RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 4.1 Results 4.1.1 Extraction result 4.1.1.1 Extraction result of pigment from red dragon For the extraction of pigment from red dragon fruit, dragon fruit peel contains oily substances, which will be difficult to dissolve in lipstick base (coconut oil and olive oil, beeswax, soybean wax), from that, it cannot be mixed ingredients for making lipstick Therefore, we only conduct pigment extraction with the intestines of the dragon fruit In addition, because the amount of color of the dragon fruit is not mainly in the fiber, so when conducting the experiment we also need to remove the fiber by filtering the mixture of the pureed intestine After obtaining powder pigment, the pigment is soluble in oily lipstick, so it can be used to replace the industrial mineral pigment (strong pink color) that is being used in industrial lipsticks on the market Figure 4.2 Concerntrated mixture Figure 4.1 Concerntrating mixture In this extraction experiment, time is the most important factor So we carried out each experiment with fomulas with diferent time Then, we have the results as in table 4.1 25 Table 4.1 Extraction result of pigment from red dragon fruit Formula Solids/ Solvent (gr/ml) 1:1 Formula Formula Formula 1:1 1:1 1:1 Temp (0C) 40 40 40 40 Time (hour) 0.648 0.824 1.403 0.9786 Betacyanin (gr) After carrying out these experiment, surveyed a number of effects on performance the betacyanin extraction rate and the appropriate conditions for collection were given is the highest betacyanin content given the conditions most suitable as: Extraction time is hours; Extraction temperature: 40 ⁰ C; Solids / Solvent ratio: 1gr / 1ml; Mount of Betacyanin: 1,403gr Figure 4.3 Pigment obtained from red dragon fruit 4.1.1.2 Extraction result of pigment from tumeric For the extraction of pigment from tumeric, it is unnecessary for pure extraction because curcuminoids themselves, when extracted, have a deep yellow color and have been completely dissolved in the oily system, so curcuminoids can completely replace 26 the yellow color used in industry It is also known that curcumin has a purulent effect on young skin, secretes the bile effect, increases the secretion of bile by liver cells, breaks cholesterol in the blood Tumeric essential oil has a fungicidal effect on the skin and curcumin has an antibacterial effect as well In this extraction experiment, time is the most important factor So we carried out each experiments fomulars with diferent time Then, we have the results as in talbe 4.2 Table 4.2 Extraction result of pigment from tumeric Formula Raw material Formula Formula Formula Formula 1 1 Temp (⁰C) 80 80 80 80 80 Time (hour) 10 12 40 53 76 104 104 (kg) Curcuminoid (gr) After carrying out these experiment, surveyed a number of effects on performance the cucurminoid extraction rate and the appropriate conditions for collection were given is the highest cucurminoid content given the conditions most suitable as: Extraction time is 10 hours; Extraction temperature is 800C; Mount of raw material is 1kg; Mount of cucurminoid is 104gr 27 Figure 4.4 Color pigment obtained from tumeric 4.1.1.3 Extraction result of pigment from gac fruit This Sohlet method saves solvents, requires only a few solvents to extract the sample, in addition, it does not need to filter and refill new solvents like other techniques Just plug in the electricity to open the circulating water, the machine will perform the extraction process The outstanding advantage is that it can extract the desired compound The only disadvantage in this method is that it has to conduct many different timelines because the extraction time is a major factor affecting the extraction results Figure 4.5 Color pigment obtained from gac fruit And the most important thing is betacarotene and lycopene is the same color (red) so it is unnecessary exactly extract each kind And both of them solved in the system of lipstick So this experiment was carried out with fomulas with different time intervals And results will be performed in table 4.3 28 Table 4.3 Extraction result of pigment from Gac Formula Formula Formula Formula 500 500 500 500 500 Temp (0C) 80 80 80 80 80 Time (hour) 10 12 37 49 80 112 112 Raw material (gr) Lycopene and betacaroten (gr) Formula After carrying out these experiment, surveyed a number of effects on performance the lycopene and betacaroten extraction rate and the appropriate conditions for collection were given is the highest lycopene and betacaroten content given the conditions most suitable as: Extraction time is 10 hours; Extraction temperature is 800C; Mount of raw material is 500gr; Mount of lycopene and betacarotene is 112gr 4.1.1.4 Extraction result of pomelo flowers In terms of raw materials, steam attractive distillation method almost identical to direct storage with water With its own steam source and the steam in contact with the material that attracts the essential oil and changes to its internal form in a refrigerating and removable part The priorities of this approach are ease of implementation, ease of equipment creation, and simplicity of operation; low price We can use many different types of heat sources such as electricity, dock, coal, Save water than direct distillation method, clear water But, because this progress is close, so High temperatures decompose essential oils Therefore, when it is necessary to use superheated steam (above 100°C) this should be done during the final stage of distillation, after all the volatile components have been absorbed Then, we carried out this experiment with fomulars, each formular is a different temparature And we have the data in table 4.4 29 Table 4.4 Extraction result of pomelo flower Formula Fomula Formula Formula Formula 350 350 350 350 350 Time (min) 90 90 90 90 90 Temparature (°C) 80°C 90°C 100°C 110°C 120°C Essential oil (ml) 14,7 23,5 67,7 61,2 57,4 Mixture of material (ml) From the data in this table, the temparature which is most suitable for extracting progress is 100°C, and total amount of essential oil after extracting is 61,2ml in time interval is 90 minutes with the a mount of material is 350ml Figure 4.6 Essential oil obtained from pomelo flower 4.1.2 Trial combining material and extrction making lipstick results 4.1.2.1 Result of using organic materials making lipstick base In these formulations, all of evaluation criteria is base on assessed sensitively And the results is appeared in below table: 30 Table 4.5 Evaluation result of character of lipstick base Formula Fomula Formula Formula Formula 1.5 2.5 Sticky x x x x X Hard x x x Olive oil and coconut oil (ml) Soft x Very soft X From the result in this table, the formulas which show the better result are formula and 4.1.2.2 Result of finding out the best formualation of lipstick base Because the most important of lipstick storage condition is below 45 degrees and the lipstick is storage in a well-ventilated environment [14] From the using organic material making lipstick base, we can see that the formulation and is the best, they have enough characters of a industrial lipstick So formulation number and will be tested to evaluate the melt at other temperatures and in the same time (5 hours) as follows: Table 4.6 Evaluation result of storage condition of fomualtion and 200C 250C 300C 350C 400C 450C 500C 550C 600C Formula Nomarl Nomarl Nomarl Nomarl Nomarl Oily Oily Melt Melt Formula Nomarl Nomarl Nomarl Nomarl Nomarl Nomarl Oily Oily Melt From the above results, the best formulation in these experiment is formula and the best formulation of lipstick base contains 1g of bee wax, 1g of soybean wax and 2,5 ml of coconut oil and olive oil 31 4.1.2.3 Result of application of pigment extractions on coloring lipstick In these formulations, all of evaluation criteria such as pigment covarage, pigmented, smooth of pigment, sticky of pigment is base on assessed sensitively And the results is appeared in below tables: Table 4.7 Coloring lipstick results with yellow pigment (cucurminoid) 0,5g 1g 1,5g 2g 2,5g Coverage (%) 20 30-40 40-50 50-60 60-70 Pigmented (%) 30 60 70 80-90 100 Smooth of pigment 100 100 100 100 100 Sticky of pigment 100 100 100 100 100 Table 4.8 Coloring lipstick results with strong pink pigment (betacyanin) Coverage (%) Pigmented (%) Smooth of pigment Sticky of pigment 0.5g 1g 1,5g 2g 2,5g 30 45 55-65 65-75 75-90 40 50 65-70 80-90 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Table 4.9 Coloring lipstick results with red pigment (lycopene and beta carotene) Coverage (%) Pigmented (%) Smooth of pigment Sticky of pigment 0.5g 1g 1,5g 2g 2,5g 30 45 55-65 65-75 75-90 50 55 65-70 80-90 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 32 4.1.2.4 Flavouring lipstick Because with each a mount of essential oil will make different fragrance concentrationins And the flavoring progress results will be assessed sensitively in table 4.10: Table 4.10 Flavouring lipstick results with essential oil from pomelo flower A mount of essential oil (%) Result Formula Fomula Formula Formula 0,1 0,2 0,3 No flavor Perfumed Very Perfumed Too perfumed From the results of these experiments, the amount of pomelo essential oils which is suitable is 0.2% because it does not make people uncomfortable to smell 4.2 Discussion The product creates the same design and appearance as the lipsticks sold in the market In addition, the usage and preservation are nothing special and remarkable By the best formula, from 2gr of wax, 2,5ml of oil with about 2-2,5gr of pigments and 0.2% flavour in the right dosage, depending on the color of the lipstick we want to make We can create complete lipsticks with the good characters like industrial lipstick in the market nowaday (the lipstick still has the same composition but uses less beeswax) There are also many types of lipsticks with different functional models such as lipstick, lip balm, lip balm, lip balm with a variety of colors such as magenta, wine red, light pink, dark pink, orange red, purple rose, and different designs such as bar, water, roller, jar, creamy liquid This formula has a lot of advantages such as: Having a design that ensures aesthetics, diverse colors Guaranteed quality (smooth, bright, durable color) Cheaper price, suitable for many users, simple raw materials, high economic efficiency Usage and preservation are similar to other products on the market Shelf life from months to year without chemical toxic preservations because beewax play an organic preservations in lipstick and and it is highly safe for user health 33 The product can minimize the amount of chemicals used in the cosmetic industry and the amount of chemicals being put into the body during use Moreover, taking advantage of the available uses of natural preparations is not only safe for the health of consumers but also has good benefits for the body, especially in beauty care We can make the most of what nature is available, both economically and environmentally friendly The product has the same shape, color, quality, usage, and preservation as other products on the market Users can use the product in a large amount without affecting their health In particular, lipstick is the product that is most susceptible to being put into the body With the lipstick does not contain harmful ingredients, users are always comfortable and assured when using After carefully studying the ingredients of lipstick, we can see that these materials have safe ingredients, not only that there are some good effects for health and aesthetics that we can exploit Moreover, mixing and combining these ingredients does not cause adverse reactions or undesirable consequences (because the chemical components of each substance not react with each other) Because lipstick mainly produced from fruit, it can spoil, go rancid and mold However, in coconut oil, the olive oil we use (coconut oil and olive oil often used for food) already has an acceptable amount of preservatives (the user can use it as food), so just stored at room temperature, the lipstick can also last quite a long and durable color All the steps are quite simple, with a high probability of success, not too much time and especially in terms of economic efficiency Because of the limitation of researchin time so the fomulars can not be carried out more times with differents rate of ingredients, then the fomualation which was considered the best one maybe have some disadvantages Moreover, there is a few researching materials, factors was carred out so that, the diversity of thesis is limit So this is the only disadvantage of this thesis 34 CHAPTER V CONCLUSION AND PROPOSAL 5.1 Conclusion Found out a method to prepare trial lipstick with the main raw material is natural color, flavour and base And made lipstick products with different colors: red, yellow, pink  With pink pigment: Extraction time is hours; Extraction temperature: 40 ⁰ C; Solids / Solvent ratio: 1gr / 1ml; Mount of Betacyanin: 1,403gr  With yellow pigment: Extraction time is 10 hours; Extraction temperature is 80 ⁰ C; Mount of raw material is 1kg; Mount of cucurminoid is 104gr  With red pigment: Extraction time is 10 hours; Extraction temperature is 80⁰C; Mount of raw material is 500gr; Mount of lycopene and betacarotene is 112gr  With flavour extraction: Extraction temperature is 100°C, total amount of essential oil after extracting is 61,2ml in time interval is 90 minutes with the a mount of material is 350ml  With trial complete lipstick fomula: 2gr of wax, 2,5ml of oil with about 2-2,5gr of pigments and 0.2% flavour The above products all have the same advantages as the industrial products on the market Take advantage of raw materials, minimize the amount of chemicals needed to use in the cosmetic industry Affirming a new use of some natural products, especially red dragon fruit, tumeric and Gac From simple materials to creating products that are increasingly useful in life, ensuring safety and economic efficiency 5.2 Proposal Continuing to find more natural resources to make other types of beauty products such as: chalk, lotion Especially, research more objects to extract more colors and aromas, serving the industry organic lipstick industry Continue to find new and more superior lipstick formulas, complete the old recipe and test those recipes to see if they are completely safe for the user 35 REFERENCES 1.http://www.trieuthanhweeklymagazine.com/suutam/st1/nhungkienthucthuvi.html 2.http://www.webtretho.com/forum/f3270/7-chat-doc-hai-trong-my-pham-lam-dep1923381/ 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