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THAI NGUYEN UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE AND FORESTRY ISRAEL VIOLA PONCE AN EMPIRICAL STUDY OF HOMEMADE BURONG ISDA, A TRADITIONAL EXOTIC FERMENTED FISH OF PAMPANGA, PHILIPPINES BACHELOR THESIS Study Mode: Full-time Major: Food Technology Faculty: Advanced Education Program Office Batch: 2016-2020 Thai Nguyen, November 2020 i DOCUMENTATION PAGE WITH ABSTRACT Thai Nguyen University of Agriculture and Forestry Degree Program Bachelor of Food Technology Student name Israel Viola Ponce Student ID DTN1554290047 AN EMPIRICAL STUDY OF HOMEMADE BURONG ISDA, A TRADITIONAL EXOTIC Thesis Title FERMENTED FISH OF PAMPANGA, PHILIPPINES Supervisor (s) Supervisor’s Signature Dr Nikki Dagamac (Philippines); Msc Dinh Thi Kim Hoa (Vietnam) Dr Nikki Heherson A Dagamac Abstract: Fermentation is a conventional method of food preservation and is commonly used to enhance food safety, shelf life, and the qualities of organoleptic and nutrition Fermented fish are processed and served in various parts of the world and are an integral part of many food traditions Moreover, these fermented fish have great potential for enhancing sensory qualities, nutritional value, and health benefits Burong isda is one of the traditional local food of the Kapampangan, for the non-local, this food might be judge by its look and smell Buro is served on any occasion and partnered with fried fish and boiled vegetables Though many scientific studies have been published in many different related topics about this burong isda of Pampanga, focusing on the traditional process has not been thoroughly discussed The main objective of this study is to investigate how burong isda is practiced by local people in Apalit, Pampanga, making it traditional To initially specify whether different types of burong isda natural made and angkak are both present in the area Lastly, how burong isda serves Kapampangan cuisine, in the town of Apalit, and throughout the province A face to face interview led with the local communities residing in different barangays at the town of Apalit was conducted, wherein a total of 10 buro makers were asked about the homemade processing of buro Analysis of the interviewed respondents showed that buro makers follow five major standards when processing burong isda The results indicate that raw materials, processing, fermentation, buro quality, and working area are the recommended standards that the buro makers practiced in buro making It recommends comparing the burong isda in public and supermarket by conducting a blind sensory test, to know which burong isda is preferred by the prospective customers Differences in the varieties of burong isda of the Kapampangan Burong isda, Fermentation, Pampanga, Buro Maker, Exotic food Keywords: Number of pages: 79 pages Date of Submission: November 27, 2020 ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT First of all, thank you very much to the Advanced Education Program, the University of Thai Nguyen of Agriculture and Forestry, along with the University of California Davis, teachers, and staff, for allowing me to be part of your program I wish to express my deepest gratitude to my thesis supervisors: Dr Nikki Dagamac, for his help, guidance, suggestions, and review of my thesis manuscript for this study He is also greatly admired for his patience and the support he has given me throughout my study I am also profoundly grateful to my second thesis supervisor, Ms Dinh Thi Kim Hoa, for her valuable advice and strong support for my research study Their encouragement and continuous support are the reason to make this thesis possible I am deeply grateful to my mother, Timotea Ponce for believing, and staying with me, helping me to conduct interviews, during the sleepless nights of writing this report To my father, Ben Ponce, and my brother and sisters: Julie, Joanna, Joseph, Jhoy, Jennifer, Josephine, Jimmy, and Kim, I appreciate your support, your prayers, your words of upliftment, and wisdom that you have given me to finish this study Thank you very much for the K48 Food Technology batch for the fun and unforgettable memories and experiences I've shared with you I would like to express my special thanks to the K44, K45, and K46 batch for supporting me in my first year in Thai Nguyen, Vietnam And to the K49 and K50 Filipino Batch, enjoy your time here in Vietnam To all the Filipinos and international students, I met, particularly Lea, Nina, Charm, Lyka, Aly, Ella, Jose, Keria, Josh, Dicky, Rian, Fathur, Jenny, Gio, Francis, Brian, Marga, iii Karl, Mark, Ken, Sherry, Peter, and Ate Jellie I had so much fun and many things I learned, and I know that our memories here in Vietnam will never be forgotten and will hold in my heart and mind forever To my closest Vietnamese friends who treated me as a member of the family, who welcomed me in their homes, and showed me the various parts of Northern Vietnam My appreciation goes out to you, and your families To Nam, Anh Tu, Tien, Viet Anh, Thiet, Quy, Kien, Manh, Hoang Son, and Trinh in particular I am also grateful to Keith Carlos, and Jerwin Nucom for the support they have given me in gathering the data for this study And I also owe my deep gratitude to my friend, Pauline Damaso, for encouraging me and guiding me through the last days of my study And lastly, ITC to Dr Thao, Ms Tu, Ms Duong, and Ms Huyen, who are encouraging me to express my passion for helping Vietnamese students become more confident in English communication Thank you for trusting and letting me be part of the Israel English Class Internship All the lessons that I learned from helping the students will mark in my heart forever Above all, I would like to thank God for the courage and commitment, knowledge, and capacity to complete this research Without his grace and blessing, the study would not have been possible Israel Ponce iv Table of Contents Abstract: ii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT iii LIST OF FIGURES viii LIST OF TABLES ix CHAPTER I 1.1 Background of the Study 1.2 Significance of the Study 1.3 Research Questions 1.3.1 Research questions 1.4 Objective of the Study 1.4.1 General Objective 1.4.2 Specific Objectives 1.5 Scope and Limitations 1.6 Definition of Terms CHAPTER II: 2.1 Introduction to Fermentation 2.2 Fermented Fish 2.2.1 Fermented Fish in the Philippines 14 2.3 History of Burong Isda 15 2.3.1 The Birth of Kapampangan Exotic Cuisine 16 2.3.2 Burong Isda Production 17 CHAPTER III: 20 3.1 Pragmatic Paradigm 20 3.2 Qualitative Research Approach 21 3.2.1 Theoretical Framework of the Study 21 3.3 Research Design 22 3.3.1 Role of the Researcher 23 3.3.2 Time and location of the study 24 3.3.3 Sampling Technique 25 3.3.4 Data Collection Methods 26 v 3.4 Data Gathering 26 3.4.1 Interview questions 27 3.4.2 Process 27 3.4.3 Respondents 28 3.4.4 Interview 29 3.5 Analysis of Data 29 3.5.1Transcribing 29 3.5.2 QDA Miner Software 4.0 30 3.5.3 Process Coding 30 3.5.4 Sorting of Codes 31 3.5.1.1 Categories 32 3.5.1.2 Themes 32 Chapter IV: 34 4.1 Introduction 34 4.2 Demographic of the Participants 34 4.3 Theme 1: Traditional processing of buro thoroughly explains by the buro makers of Apalit, Pampanga 35 4.4 Theme 2: Burong isda maker follows some standards in the processing of buro 39 4.5 Theme 3: Participants cope up in a challenging situation 42 4.6 Discussion 44 4.7 Burong isda as part of food culture of Kapampangan 45 4.8 Experience 47 Chapter V: 48 5.1 Conclusion 48 5.2 Recommendation 49 REFERENCES 50 APPENDIXES: 59 Appendix A: Informed Consent Form 60 Appendix B: Interview Questions for Buro Makers 61 Appendix C: Processing of Burong Isda 62 Appendix D: Trying other kinds of Fish in Making Burong Isda 64 Appendix E: Standard in Processing of Burong Isda (Narrative) 66 Appendix F: Manufacturing of Burong Isda 67 vi Appendix G: Summary of Qualitative Analysis for Burong Isda Processing 68 Appendix H: Coding Frequencies of Accumulated Codes 69 vii LIST OF FIGURES Figure Theoretical Framework of the Study 22 Figure Map of Apalit, Pampanga 25 Figure 3.Traditional processing of burong isda 36 Figure Types of packaging to ferment the buro 39 Figure Buro maker demonstrates a good quality buro 41 Figure Storing the leftover buro 43 Figure Manufacturing of burong isda in the local market of Apalit 43 Figure Burong isda a Kapampangan exotic cuisine 46 Figure Qualitative Analysis of Burong Isda Process 68 Figure 10 Codes Frequency 69 viii LIST OF TABLES Table Burong Isda Processing (Narrative) 63 Table Categories: Burong Isda Process Development 64 Table codes: Manufacturing of Burong Isda 67 ix CHAPTER I: INTRODUCTION 1.1 Background of the Study The Philippine archipelago is home to a various array of ecosystems, organisms, people, and cultures Filipino cuisine is not an exception as distinct regional flavors stem from the unique food preparation techniques and culinary traditions of every region Although Philippine endemic foods are reminiscent of various foreign influences, local processes are adapted to native ingredients and following local tastes Extensive throughout the numerous islands of the Philippines is that the use of fermentation strengthens the organoleptic qualities and additionally extends the shelflife of food The Philippines' three major groups of islands, namely Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao, each have their fermented food products that suit the local palate There are fermented foods available all over the country, but there are regional peculiarities regarding the use of some of these products as foods or condiments Every locality has its fermented food, which is traditionally unique to its ethnic culture Other places may adopt these foods and have gained acceptance (B Banaay, 2013; Dina, 2020) Pampanga is one of the seven provinces located in Central, Luzon It is named as the Philippine culinary capital because it blesses the province where great cooks are trained by the Spaniards during the colonial era Kapampangan added a twist using the abundant and unique ingredients in their region, which is also the origin of exotic cuisine The food's vivid and rich flavors are evident in every Kapampangan recipe, 37 Nant, K., 2015 Study of beneficial microorganisms in Myanmar's fermented fishery products, s.l.: s.n 38 Octavio Paredes-Lopez, G I H & E D M., 1988 Food biotechnology review: Traditional solid-state fermentations of plant raw materials, apllication, nutritional significance, and future prospects Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 3(27), pp 159-187 39 Ohsima, T G A., 2014 Fermented Foods: Traditional Fish Fermentation Technology and Recent Development Encyclopedia of Food Microbiology, December.pp 852-869 40 Olympia, M S., 1992 Fermented fish products in the Philippines In: Application of biotechnology to fermented foods Washington D.C: National Academy Press, pp 134-138 41 Orillo, C S P., 1968 Lactic Acid Bacterial Fermentation of Burong Dalag American Society for Microbiology Journals, pp 1669-1671 42 Philippine Information Agency OPS, 2001 Internet archive way back machine [Online] Available at: https://web.archive.org/web/20060821123700/http://www.pia.gov.ph/info/pr ovinces/pampanga.pdf [Accessed 15 August 2020] 56 43 Praset Saisithi, A M D J L R.-O K., 1966 Journal of Food Science Food Science, January, 31(1), pp 105-110 44 Rhee, S L J & L C., 2011 Importance of lacic acid bacteria in Asian fermented foods Microbial Cell Fact, 30 August, 10(5), pp 1-13 45 Ruddle K., I N., 2010 “On the Origins, Diffusion and Cultural Context of Fermented Fish Products in Southeast Asia,” In: F J., ed in Globalization, Food and Social Identities in the Asia Pacific Region (Tokyo: Sophia University Institute of Comparative Culture; ): s.n 46 Saisithi, P., 1994 Traditional fermented fish: fish sauce production In: In Fisheries processing Boston,MA: Springer, pp 111-131 47 Saldaña, J., 2015 The coding manual for qualitative researchers s.l.:Sage 48 Sanchez, P C., 1999 Microorganisms and Technology of Philippine Fermented Foods* Lactic Acid Bacteria, pp 19-21 49 Sanchez, P C., 2008 "Phippine Fermented Foods Principle and Technology," Quezon City: The University of the Philippines Press 50 Strauss, A M & C J., 1998 Basics of Qualitative Research: technique and Procedures for Developing Grounded Theory 3rd ed Newbury Park, CA: Sage Publications, Inc 57 51 Tamang, J a D S., 2010 Dietary cultures and antiquity of fermented foods and beverages In: Fermented Foods and Beverages of the World New York, NY: CRC Press, pp 41-48 52 Thapa, N., 2016 Ethnic fermented and preserved fish products of India and Nepal Journal of Ethnic Foods, 3(1), pp 69-77 53 Thapa, N., 2016 Ethnic Fermented and preserved fish products of India and Nepal Journal of Ethnic Foods, pp 69-77 54 ucanews.com reporter, H., 2019 Vietnam's fish sauce producers swim against tide [Online] Available at: https://www.ucanews.com/news/vietnams-fish-sauce-producersswim-against-tide/84782# [Accessed 12 August 2020] 55 Wilma M De Vera, V C A C S R C P., 2015 Improved Shelf life of fresh buro ( fermented fish with rice) Through Vacuum Packaging Asia Pacific Journal of Multidisciplinary Research, 3(5), pp 97-100 58 APPENDIXES: 59 Appendix A: Informed Consent Form Consent Form As part of an undergraduate research study entitled “Traditional Process of Fermented Burong Isda in Pampanga Philippines”, the researcher acknowledge your willingness to participate in this study as a primary source of information through interview and documentation processes Herewith, the researcher would like to ask for your consent to allow the information you will provide for research purposes only that will address the goals intended for this undergraduate research study By signing this form, you voluntary agree to allow the researchers to use your name and the information you provide for publication and/or presentations For questions, please contact: Israel Ponce, Lead Researcher Advanced Education Program, Thai Nguyen University of Agriculture and Forestry Thai Nguyen, Vietnam Email: ponzponce@gmail.com Phone: 09271340564 I consent to the use and release of my personal information provided in the interview(s): Signature _ Please print your full name _ Date Thank you We appreciate your participation 60 Appendix B: Interview Questions for Buro Makers The following are some guide questions in production of burong Isda How you get your raw materials for your burong Isda? (Follow up questions) • Do you consider some factors in choosing fish for the buro? ( types of fish) (consideration, where are the fish, come from) • What kind of fish you use in buro? ( may vary depends on fish available ) • What are the limitations that you encounter in gathering your raw materials/fishes? How you process burong isda? • When did you start making buro? • What is the story behind your knowledge for the processing of buro? • What factors you consider when fermenting the burong isda? • How much burong isda you produce in a week or month? • How you consider your product as a good quality of burong isda? • How will you know if your buro still in good condition? • How long is your fermentation? • What is the difference of fish buro to other kinds? Do you follow any standard and regulations in making buro isda? Where and how you distribute your products? • How much you sell your buro? Are there any changes in your production because of the current pandemic (COVID)? 61 Appendix C: Processing of Burong Isda 4 Coded process-Processing of Burong Isda Cleaning the fish • The processing of burong tilapia, firstly cut, and clean the fish, wash them until the blood removed Soaking the fish in the salt • • soak them in a lot of salt, leave them for about four hours Drying the fish • I will let them dry under the sun for half a day before putting them in a container Storing for fermentation • I will transfer the dried fish in the basin, and soak them in a lot of salt, leave them for about four hours In the next step, I will divide them, into small containers First, the cold rice, dried fish, and salt, and then repeat the process Coded process- Fermenting the Buro i Less than week • I ferment the burong tilapia for about 3-4 days • I ferment the buro for days, and then I will start selling it • I ferment the burong isda for about five to six days, ii week • I ferment the burong isda up to seven days • The total days I ferment the buro is seven iii weeks and more • After two weeks of fermenting the fish, the bone of the tilapia is surely soft enough • I will ferment them for at least two weeks and more Coded process- Processing Consideration No more bloods remain • The thing I consider, when making buro is the processing first, you must make sure that after cleaning the fish, no more drops of blood left Cleanliness to avoid some problems • I consider the cleanliness of the fish, I must, that thoroughly clean the fish to avoid the unnecessary smell during the fermentation of buro Types of fish and salting • I consider when I make a buro, the types of fish I used, and the salting of fish Workplace • There are some things to consider first, the workplace, the time of cleaning of fish, and the fermentation • When making buro, ensure that there are no flies around it because if these flies touch the buro, it can cause spoilage Coded process- Checking the Quality 62 To know if the buro is ready, I will use the scoop to check it, if the fish are soft, it means that the buro is sour and it's ready to sell it in the market I know if the buro is all right once you're checking the aroma, and it's already sour, it means it's getting the quality it needs I can say if the buro is a good quality when the taste and smell are sour, it means that it's okay and ready to sell in the market Coded process-Repairing the Buro Adding porridge and salt · It's normal when the buro changed in quality as the day's past, and it becomes acidic, by adding more salt and porridge on it, it can be balanced and keep the quality · As the buro lasts, its odor and taste become sour To fix this, cold rice needs to be added, to balance the taste and smell, as well as to maintain its good quality Table Burong Isda Processing (Narrative) 63 Appendix D: Trying other kinds of Fish in Making Burong Isda Table Categories: Burong Isda Process Development Category Case Text BURONG ISDA PRODUCTION RQ2 PA10 RQ2 RQ2 PA5 PA4 RQ2 PA1 I make up to to 10 liters of burong tilapia in a single process RQ2 PA2 I'm using 20 kilograms of fish for my buro RQ2 PA2 I can produce a total of 20 pieces of old container of Mayonnaise in single processing, sometimes only 10 pieces RQ2 PA8 In large bucket, I used three kilograms of fish and three kilograms of rice RQ2 PA3 Every week I make 1.5 liters of burong tilapia RQ2 PA2 As time goes by I have been a buro maker for a long time now, I learn the techniques on how to prolong and improves, the quality of burong isda By my experience, I used any size of tilapia for my buro RQ2 PA7 My first try is bad! The smell of the buro is stinky, and I have to throw it out The second try I decided to put more salt on it, and the result is better than the first one, it smells good My third try was successful quality is much better than my first and second PA2 I will inform my customer about it, but other customers prefer the buro to be sourer, so I will tell them to put more tomatoes when they cook it For 100kg of tilapia, I can produce one large plastic drum and two large buckets of buro, I store the fermented buro in one room, in that place all the buro are store I produce half a bucket of burong tilapia in a week I used two kilograms of tilapia per bucket of buro for single processing Approximately, I can make six buckets of burong tilapia in a month DEVELOPING THE PROCESS INFORMING THE CUSTOMER RQ2 64 DIFFERENTIATI NG THE KINDS OF BURO RQ2 PA1 The taste is better than the burong tilapia RQ2 PA10 Gourami is delicious than other kinds, as its small size I'm using this fish doesn't have much blood, and it will easily dissolve in buro Moreover, hito and dalag are pricy compare to tilapia, as the customers want their buro to have a lot of fish on it I make a burong tilapia instead RQ2 PA7 Comparing the two mudfish is quite longer in fermentation if you don't remove the bones Also, mudfish is much delicious compare to tilapia Normally if you ferment mudfish, it takes more than a week RQ2 PA9 Compare to tilapia, bangus is far delicious than tilapia RQ2 PA5 The difference between the burong tilapia and burong dalag, the burong dalag is much smaller in size compare to tilapia, and the bundalag is reddish, it is rare to find this fish in the market When I tried to make one, the color of the buro turns red as the fermentation goes by, I didn't put any colorant, just the fish itself RQ2 PA2 I had tried to sell the other kinds of burong isda, but my customers don't like it because the taste is different RQ2 PA0 I had tried many different kinds of fish for buro, such as hito, (catfish) gourami, dalag (mudfish) RQ2 PA6 I tried to make burong dalag, RQ2 PA5 I already tried to make a burong “Bundalag” before RQ2 PA7 I had tried using mudfish for my buro before RQ2 PA3 I had tried other varieties of buro like mudfish and hito RQ2 PA2 I already tried to use other kinds of fish to make buro's such as milkfish and mudfish RQ2 PA9 I already try to make and sell burong bangus TRYING OTHER FISH 65 Appendix E: Standard in Processing of Burong Isda (Narrative) Codes: [FOLLOWING THE STANDARD] CASE: PA1 I check the buro every two days, I push and stirs it to mix well the nutrients of the fish, and the porridge rice as well as to speed up the fermentation CASE: PA2 I sell my buro in the flea market, it must be at least two weeks fermented or more For me, this standard is a must, because at this time I can be sure that the quality of my buro is really good CASE: PA3 The cleanliness of the fish is the main important when making buro, I meticulously process my burong isda, and the tilapia must be cut it in the middle for easy to clean After cleaning, I will soak them in the salt for one hour then dry them under the sun When I am sure that no more blood remains, I will put the fish in the container to ferment together with rice and salt CASE: PA4 I will open the bucket again, after five days before selling, I will check the buro if it reaches the desired taste and aroma CASE: PA5 This technique is to lengthen the shelf life of the buro, and the fermentation still continuous CASE: PA6 I will clean the buro at night because, at this time, there are no flies that can spoil the fish After cleaning the fish, I will soak them in clean water, then salting, drying until morning Next, I will put them in the bucket, mix it with salt and cold rice CASE: PA7 The important thing in the processing of buro is the cleanliness, in everything such as preparing, and the containers CASE: PA8 During fermentation of the buro, I check and mix the ingredients every two days CASE: PA9 I check the buro every two days to mix up all the ingredients CASE: PA10 I have to cook porridge before selling burong isda, then let it cool down, after that, I'll get a portion of fermented fish or balacsina, and mix it in cold porridge The buro can sell to the market the next day 66 Appendix F: Manufacturing of Burong Isda Table codes: Manufacturing of Burong Isda MANUFACT URING Case TEXT RQ4 PA1 I sell my buro to my neighbors and my village I repack them into small clear plastic that costs 20 pesos RQ4 PA2 I sell my buro in the flea market of Tabuyoc every day, except Sunday, I packed them in a small plastic and sold it for 25 pesos each RQ4 PA3 I will sell my burong tilapia in the tiangge nearby my house I sell them in retail cost for ten pesos and wholesale for seven hundred pesos Sometimes when someone who will go abroad they will buy my buro to bring it RQ4 PA4 I sell the buro in the local market of Apalit, I put it in a small pack of plastic, costing each pack for 10 pesos, and 100 pesos per kilogram RQ4 PA5 I sell it in the local market of Apalit, I packed them in a small plastic, costing 10 pesos each RQ4 PA6 I sell my burong isda in the local market, of Apalit I packed them in a small plastic, costing 20 pesos for burong bangus and 10 pesos for burong tilapia RQ4 PA7 I'm selling my buro only here in the local market of Apalit, sometimes I have reseller I sell my buro for one thousand pesos for one large bucket, medium-size six hundred pesos, and small plastic for ten pesos RQ4 PA8 I sell my buro, only here in the local market of Apalit, I sell them 10 pesos for each pack RQ4 PA9 I sell my buro only here in the Apalit market and each pack for 10 pesos RQ4 PA10 I only sell here in the flea market of Apalit, and in my house, I sell the buro for liter one hundred pesos I sell my buro for twenty pesos for each plastic bag During the rainy season, the buro is easy to sell, compare during the summer 67 Appendix G: Summary of Qualitative Analysis for Burong Isda Processing Figure Qualitative Analysis of Burong Isda Process FINAL THEMES Theme 1: Traditional processing of buro thoroughly explains by the buro makers of Apalit, Pampanga Theme 2: Burong isda maker follows some standards in the processing of buro Theme 3: Participants cope up in a challenging situation INITIAL THEMES GATHERING RAW MATERIALS PROCESSING OF BURO FOLLOWING A STANDARD MANUFACTURING CHALLENGING SITUATION CATEGORIES & SUB-CATEGORIES * GATHERING RAW MATERIALS HAVE/OR NO PROBLEM WAYS TO LEARN THE PROCESS FERMENTING THE BURO BURONG ISDA QUALITY * POOR QUALITY BURO TRYING OTHER FISH FOLLOWING A STANDARD MANUFACTURING * STORING COPING UP * FAMILY FIRST BUYING FISH CODES BUYING FISH, FISHING, GATHERING MATERIALS HAVE PROBLEM, GATHERING RAW MATERIALS NO PROBLEM, ASKING OTHERS, WATCHING OTHERS, INHERITING, BURONG ISDA PROCESSING, FERMENTING THE BURO, BURONG ISDA PRODUCTION, PROCESSING CONSIDERATION, CHECKING THE QUALITY, REPAIRING THE BURO, FERMENTING TOO LONG IS BETTER, BURONG ISDA CAN’T BE SPOIL, DEVELOPING THE PROCESS, HAVING KNOWLEDGE, INFORMING THE CUSTOMER, DIFFERENTIATING THE KINDS OF BURO, TRYING OTHER FISH, REJECTING THE DIFFERENCES, FOLLOWING THE STANDARD, IDENTIFYING THE LOW QUALITY, RESULTING TO LOW QUALITY, MANUFACTURING, STORING, COPING UP, PRIORITIZING THE FAMILY 68 Appendix H: Coding Frequencies of Accumulated Codes Figure 10 Codes Frequency 69 70