BRITISH STANDARD BS EN 22313 1992 ISO 2313 1972 Textile fabrics — Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery The European Standard[.]
BRITISH STANDARD Textile fabrics — Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery The European Standard EN 22313:1992 has the status of a British Standard UDC 677.0741.076:677.017.832:620.1 BS EN 22313:1992 ISO 2313:1972 BS EN 22313:1992 Cooperating organizations The European Committee for Standardization (CEN), under whose supervision this European Standard was prepared, comprises the national standards organizations of the following countries Austria Belgium Denmark Finland France Germany Greece Iceland Ireland Italy Luxembourg Netherlands Norway Portugal Spain Sweden Switzerland United Kingdom This British Standard, having been prepared under the direction of the Textile and Clothing Standards Policy Committee, was published under the authority of the Standards Board and comes into effect on 15 September 1992 © BSI 07-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCM/24 Special announcement in BSI News January 1992 ISBN 580 21182 Oesterreichisches Normungsinstitut Institut belge de normalisation Dansk Standardiseringsraad Suomen Standardisoimisliito, r.y Association franỗaise de normalisation Deutsches Institut fỹr Normung e.V Hellenic Organization for Standardization Technological Institute of Iceland National Standards Authority of Ireland Ente Nazionale Italiano di Unificazione Inspection du Travail et des Mines Nederlands Normalisatie-instituut Norges Standardiseringsforbund Instituto Portugs da Qualidade Asociación Espola de Normalización y Certificación Standardiseringskommissionen i Sverige Association suisse de normalisation British Standards Institution Amendments issued since publication Amd No Date Comments BS EN 22313:1992 Contents Cooperating organizations National foreword Foreword Text of EN 22313 National annex NA (informative) Committees responsible National annex NB (informative) Cross-references © BSI 07-1999 Page Inside front cover ii Inside back cover Inside back cover i BS EN 22313:1992 National foreword This British Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee It is the English language version of EN 22313:1992 “Textiles fabrics — Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery”, which is identical with ISO 2313:1972, published by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) It supersedes BS 3086:1972 which is withdrawn A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, the EN title page, pages to 6, an inside back cover and a back cover This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover ii © BSI 07-1999 EUROPEAN STANDARD EN 22313 NORME EUROPÉENNE June 1992 EUROPÄISCHE NORM UDC 677.0741.076:677.017.832:620.1 Descriptors: Textiles, fabrics, bend tests, crease retention, crumpliness English version Textile fabrics — Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery Etoffes — Détermination de l’auto-défroissabilité d’une éprouvette pliée horizontalement, par mesurage de l’angle rémanant après pliage Textilien Flächengebilde — Bestimmung der Knitter-Erholfähigkeit einer horizontal gefalteten Gewebeprobe durch Messung der Erholungswinkels This European Standard was approved by CEN on 1992-06-26 CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German) A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official versions CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom CEN European Committee for Standardization Comité Européen de Normalisation Europäisches Komitee für Normung Central Secretariat: rue de Stassart 36, B-1050 Brussels © 1992 Copyright reserved to CEN members Ref No EN 22313:1992 EN 22313:1992 Foreword This European Standard has been taken over by CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” from the work of ISO/TC 38 “Textiles” of the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) The document was submitted to CEN members to the Unique Acceptance Procedure and was approved without any modification National standards identical to this European Standard shall be published at the latest by 1992-12-31 and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by 1992-12-31 Following the CEN/CENELEC Common Rules, the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom Contents Page Foreword Introduction Scope and field of application Reference Definition Principle Apparatus Sampling Test specimens Procedure Expression of results 10 Test report Figure — Apparatus with vertical guides for loading the specimen Figure — Instrument for measuring the crease recovery angle Figure — Example for taking 30 specimens and marking length direction Figure — Folding of specimen 3 3 3 4 4 5 6 © BSI 07-1999 EN 22313:1992 Introduction Creases in textile fabrics diminish at varying rates on the removal of the creasing forces The magnitude of the crease recovery angle is an indication of the ability of a fabric to recover from accidental creasing Scope and field of application This International Standard specifies a method for determining the angle of recovery of fabrics from creasing The results obtained by this method for textile fabrics of very different kinds cannot be compared directly Attention is drawn to the fact that for some types of fabrics, the limpness, thickness and tendency to curl of the specimen may give rise to very ill-defined crease recovery angles, and therefore an unacceptable lack of precision in making measurements Many wool and wool mixture fabrics come under this heading b) Two flat pressure plates which remain parallel to one another throughout the period of the application of the load to the specimen On the lower plate an area of 15 mm × 20 mm shall be marked or other provisions made to facilitate correct placement of the specimen An example of a loading apparatus is shown in Figure 5.2 Instrument for measuring the crease recovery angle ISO/R 139, Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing textiles The instrument consists of the following parts: a) A circular scale divided in degrees and correct to ± 0.5° It shall be possible to read the angle correct to the nearest degree without parallax error b) A specimen grip to hold the specimen in such a manner that the fold lies in a horizontal line through the centre of the circular scale The edge of the grip shall lie mm from the centre of the scale, as shown in Figure The specimen grip shall be rotatable about this axis to keep the free limb of the specimen in a vertical position A suitable device is shown in Figure Definition 5.3 Auxiliary devices Reference crease recovery angle the angle formed between the two limbs of a strip of fabric previously folded under prescribed conditions, at a specified time after removal of the creasing load Principle A rectangular specimen of prescribed dimensions is folded by means of a suitable device and maintained in this state for a specified short time under a specified load This creasing load is removed, the specimen allowed to recover for a specified time, and the crease recovery angle then measured Apparatus 5.1 Apparatus for loading the specimen (press) This apparatus consists of the following parts: a) A press to apply a total load of 10 N1) on an area of 15 mm × 15 mm of the folded specimen It shall be possible to complete the removal of the load within a period of less than s 1) 5.3.1 Stop-watch 5.3.2 Tweezers with broad, spade shaped jaws 5.3.3 Paper or metal foil not thicker than 0.02 mm Sampling Cut the samples so as to be as representative as possible of the whole delivery Pending the publication of an International Standard for sampling, take samples in accordance with the national standards or established rules Newly finished fabrics and fabrics that have been subject to washing, dry cleaning or pressing treatments may show a gradual improvement in crease recovery Store samples from such fabrics for at least days under room conditions before specimens are taken The creasing propensity for cellulosic and protein fibre materials varies with time over a much longer period than days, and to cancel any ageing effects, soak these fabrics in water at 20 °C for 30 min, centrifuge and steam press while still damp before conditioning as in 7.4 Weight of a body of mass 1.019 kg is approximately equal to a force of 10 N © BSI 07-1999 EN 22313:1992 Test specimens 8.2 Loading 7.1 Selection Fold the specimen end to end and hold in this position by tweezers, gripping no more than mm from the ends Where the surfaces of the specimens show any tendency to adhere, place a sheet of paper or metal foil 18 mm × 15 mm between the limbs of the specimen (see Figure 4) Then place the specimen on the marked area of the lower plate of the loading device, and apply the load gently, without delay Fold half the number of test specimens face to face, the other half back to back Load the specimens for ± s Thereafter remove the load quickly but smoothly so that the specimen does not suddenly spring open, completing the removal in less than s By means of tweezers, transfer the specimen directly to the specimen holder of the measuring instrument To make the transfer, hold in the flat of the forceps that arm of the specimen which is to hang down and gently introduce the other arm between the two parts of the grip as far as — but no farther than — the back stop, taking care not to disturb the existing crease formation In order to ensure a representative average for the fabric to be tested, take specimens in the manner shown in Figure 3, and ensuring that specimens are taken not less than 50 mm from the selvedges Do not take specimens from creased, wrinkled, bent, or deformed parts Mark the length, for example (warp) direction on the face side of the fabric 7.2 Dimensions Cut rectangular specimens each 40 mm long and 15 mm wide 7.3 Number Unless otherwise agreed by the parties interested in the test results, prepare not fewer than 20 specimens for each test, half of them taken with their short sides parallel to the warp (woven fabric) or wales (knitted fabric) or the direction marked “length” (non-woven fabric) and the other half with their short sides parallel to the weft (woven fabric) or courses (knitted fabric) or at right angles to the length direction (non-woven fabric) 7.4 Conditioning a) Condition the specimens for at least 24 h in one of the standard atmospheres for testing textiles according to ISO/R 139, (20 ± °C and 65 ± % relative humidity, or 27 ± °C and 65 ± % relative humidity) ensuring exposure of all surfaces to the air, for instance by placing the specimens on wire-gauze or mesh Take suitable steps to ensure that equilibrium is approached from the dry side, but in no circumstances expose the specimens to a temperature above 50 °C After the specimens have been conditioned, handle them solely with tweezers or rubber fingerstalls Strict observance of all test conditions in respect of preparation and handling of specimens is essential if reliable values of crease recovery angle are to be obtained b) For high humidity determinations, condition the specimens for at least 24 h at a temperature of 35 ± °C and 90 ± % relative humidity Procedure 8.1 General conditions Conduct all testing in the test atmosphere chosen [see 7.4 a) and 7.4 b)] Screen the testing equipment from draughts, from the operator’s breath and from excessive heat radiation from lighting appliances 8.3 Measurement of the crease recovery angle While the specimen is in the holder, adjust the instrument continuously to keep the suspended free limb always in a vertical position Read the crease recovery angle after the removal of the load and the paper or metal foil from the folded specimen If the free limb twists or curls slightly, use a vertical plane through its centre and the axis of the circular scale to serve as a basis for reading the crease recovery angle Expression of results Calculate the mean value, to the nearest degree, for the following: 1) crease across length (for example, warp) direction a) face to face, b) back to back; 2) crease across transverse (for example, weft) direction a) face to face, b) back to back 10 Test report The test report shall include the following particulars: a) reference to this International Standard; b) simple designation of the tested cloth; © BSI 07-1999 EN 22313:1992 c) whether a standard or high humidity atmosphere was used; d) date of beginning of pre-conditioning and conditioning, and duration of exposure of the specimens to the standard atmosphere for testing textiles; e) date of test; f) number of specimens evaluated; g) mean values calculated in accordance with section for face and back of the sample, to the nearest degree in both longitudinal and transverse directions; h) standard deviation and confidence interval, if required Figure — Apparatus with vertical guides for loading the specimen Figure — Instrument for measuring the crease recovery angle © BSI 07-1999 EN 22313:1992 Figure — Example for taking 30 specimens and marking length direction Figure — Folding of specimen © BSI 07-1999 BS EN 22313:1992 National annex NA (informative) Committees responsible The United Kingdom participation in the preparation of this European Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/24, upon which the following bodies were represented: Association of Consulting Scientists British Nonwovens Manufacturers’ Association British Polyolefin Textiles Association British Textile confederation British Textile Machinery Association British Textile Technology Group British Throwsters’ Association Confederation of British Wool Textiles Ltd Furniture Industry Research Association International Wool Secretariat Ministry of Defence National Wool Textile Export Corporation North East Lancashire Textile Manufacturers’ Association SATRA Footwear Technology Centre Soap and Detergent Industry Association Society of Dyers and Colourists Textile Finishers’ Association Textile Institute National annex NB (informative) Cross-references ISO/R 139, which is referred to in EN 22313, has been replaced by ISO 139:1973 The corresponding British Standard is BS EN 20139:1992 “Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing” © BSI 07-1999 BS EN 22313:1992 ISO 2313:1972 BSI — British Standards Institution BSI is the independent national body responsible for preparing British Standards It presents the UK view on standards in Europe and at the international level It is incorporated by Royal Charter Revisions 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