adventure guide to canada''s atlantic provinces (hunter,2002)

Barbara Radcliffe Rogers & Stillman Rogers dventure Guide to HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC. 130 Campus Drive Edison, NJ 08818-7816 % 732-225-1900 / 800-255-0343 / fax 732-417-1744 www.hunterpublishing.com E-mail comments@hunterpublishing.com IN THE UNITED KINGDOM: Windsor Books International The Boundary, Wheatley Road, Garsington Oxford, OX44 9EJ England % 01865-361122 / fax 01865-361133 ISBN 1-58843-264-5 © 2002, Barbara Radcliffe Rogers & Stillman Rogers This and other Hunter travel guides are also available as e-books in a variety of digital formats through our online partners, including Amazon.com, BarnesandNoble.com, and eBooks.com. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, elec- tronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. Brief excerpts for review or promo- tional purposes are permitted. This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and compa- nies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or po - tential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omis - sions result from negligence, accident or any other cause. Cover: Cormorant colony, Cape Tryon cliffs, Prince Edward Island © Barrett & MacKay Photography, Inc. Back cover: Stanley Bridge, PEI, © Rogers Associates All other photos © Rogers Associates, unless otherwise indicated. Maps by Lissa K. Dailey and Toni Carbone, © 2002 Hunter Publishing, Inc. Indexing by Nancy Wolff 54321 Authors’ Foreword Our adventures in New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island go back to the very first days of our marriage, when we chose to explore these provinces on our honey - moon. We set out for two weeks in August in a gutsy little TR-4, without hotel res - ervations, but with a good road map and a sense of humor. Our car’s bigger now – to hold all the camping equipment and to carry racks for the bikes and kayaks – and the growing popularity of the provinces has made reservations wise in the summer, but we still carry a good map and the sense of humor. We’ve traveled much of the world together, and with the family that grew from the marriage we celebrated on that honeymoon in the TR-4. But no place on earth has constantly offered all of us so many adventures or so many chances to broaden our repertoire of outdoor activities. In these two provinces we first went deep-sea fish - ing, dug our first clams, saw our first whales, found our first fossils, paddled our first kayaks and handled our first dog teams. Here we’ve hiked deep into the only remaining stretch of coastal wilderness on the Atlantic side of North America. An experience need not be a “first” to be an adventure, and Maritime Canada con - tinues to surprise and delight us with its variety after all these years. Until we were writing this book, for example, we had never seen the tremendous sand dunes along the new section of Prince Edward Island National Park, near St. Pe - ters, take on the contours of the Sahara. The wildlife we see is a continuing source of surprise and wonder: swirling clouds of sandpipers at Mary’s Point, deer in the backyard of the Hiram Walker Estate in St. Andrews, moose beside the road in Keswick, harbor porpoise in Charlottetown, salmon jumping in the Miramichi, seal pups in Murray River, Osprey nesting at Point Escuminac, puffins off Grand Manan, bald eagles on the Tobique, the continent’s largest great blue heron colony at Souris, cormorants on the sea stack at Pokeshaw and an island solid with birds in Malpeque Bay. And, of course, the Fundy whales. Other places in the world boast to us of their whale populations, but we try to be good guests and not remind them that we have the best right in our backyard. We don’t even have to go out in a boat to see them: our favorite spotting point is from a lighthouse on Campobello Island. Barbara and Tim Rogers Dedication To Wayne Kidney, without whom New Brunswick just won’t be the same. A Word of Thanks Even when it has only two authors, a travel book is a group project. No two hu - mans could possibly gather all the information, sample the activities, hike the trails, taste the food and paddle the waters required of a reliable guide book with - out a lot of help from other people. We’ve been singularly blessed in writing this one. Help has come wherever we travel and more help has awaited us at home. Two people stand out for their continuing role in our work: Valerie Kidney in New Brunswick and Carol Horne in Prince Edward Island. Their knowledge, diplo - macy, perseverance and good humor makes them each a pleasure to know and work with. Others stand out as well, joining Valerie and Carol in smoothing the road before us and putting us in touch with just the right people to answer our questions (or answering them themselves) – Percy Mallet, Lee Heenan, Nancy Sears, Candee Treadway, Ralph Johansen, Dick Griffiths, Monica Campbell- Hoppe, and Lois Gerber. Throughout the two provinces, we have never failed to be amazed at the wealth of knowledge and information that waits for travelers in each of the local and provin - cial tourist information offices along the way. What the people who staff these don’t know themselves, they’ll find out within a couple of telephone calls. Their enthusiasm for their homeland and the eagerness with which they share it is one of the great pleasures of travel, not to mention making our work a lot easier as we try to ferret our obscure bits of information. We can’t list them all – we often don’t even know their names – but remember especially Lisa Cormier and Philip Barnhill, the good-humored duo in the information office in Bathurst. Other people seem to appear randomly, in gestures typical of Maritime hospitality – we remember especially a conversation on the dock at Shippagan with Muriel Savoie, as we watched a veritable fleet of little puk-a-puks set off for the Blessing of the Fleet one morning. There are the travel companions, too, with whom we have shared the laughs and wonders of travels there. Paddling companions Darrell Mesheau and Glen Larsen come to mind, and the ever-laughing Melanie Coates. Innkeepers in general are a rich source of local information for travel writers, and we exploit them mercilessly. While all we have met in these two provinces have gone out of their way to be helpful (and are supremely hospitable by nature), some have gone so far beyond the demands of hospitality that we think of them when - ever someone uses the word. Elizabeth Cooney in St. Andrews, Katherine Van Weston in St. Martins and Ida and Larry Adair, who are never too busy to drop what they are doing to show us some new wonder in the vast Fundy wilderness they call home. Fellow travel writers are just as generous of their time and knowledge, especially Tom Bross, who shares discoveries made as he travels in New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, and Lura Rogers, who took time from writing her own book to help us prepare this manuscript when time grew short. While we’d sometimes prefer to be writing with our favorite fountain pens, reality requires many hours at a computer, and ours seem to wait until a manuscript is almost due, then either develop highly eccentric habits or stop working alto - gether. To Tracy Pillsbury, computer guru extraordinaire, who hops into his truck and makes house calls from two hours away, goes our eternal gratitude for setting them right at a moment’s notice. We’ve left the ever-patient Lissa Dailey for last, although she’s the one who actu - ally made this book real. As our editor and our friend, she’s a treasure, and to her goes the heartiest thanks of all. It is, after all, the friendships that will endure, long after the travels are over. About the Authors Tim and Barbara Rogers have been wandering around Canada since the very first days of their marriage, hiking its trails, camping in its parks, climbing its moun - tains, kayaking its waters and skiing its snow. Until recently, they saved the At - lantic Provinces for themselves, going there for family vacations while they wrote about other places in the world. Their books have covered such widespread loca - tions as the Galapagos Islands of Ecuador, African safari parks, Portugal, New England and the rivers and seas of Europe. Their articles in magazines and news - papers have described their adventures on several continents, from climbing a volcano on the back of a camel to “driving” their own houseboat through the canals of England. Exotic, they insist, is simply a matter of perspective, and they find a lion in the bush no more exciting than looking a Fundy whale straight in the eye. www.hunterpublishing.com Hunter’s full range of travel guides to all corners of the globe is featured on our exciting Web site. You’ll find guidebooks to suit every type of traveler, no matter what their budget, lifestyle, or idea of fun. Full descriptions are given for each book, along with reviewers’ comments and a cover image. Books may be pur - chased on-line using a credit card via our secure transaction system. All on-line orders receive a 20% discount. Alive! guides are a refreshing change from the “same-old” guide - books. They are written for the savvy traveler who is looking for quality and value in accommodations and dining, with a selec - tion of activities to fill the days and nights. Check out our Adventure Guides, a series aimed at the inde- pendent traveler who enjoys outdoor activities such as rafting, hiking, biking, skiing, kayaking, and canoeing. All books in this signature series cover places to stay and eat, sightseeing, in- town attractions, transportation and more! Hunter’s Romantic Weekends series offers myriad things to do for couples of all ages and lifestyles. Quaint places to stay and res- taurants where the ambiance will take your breath away are in- cluded, along with fun activities that you and your partner will remember forever. Hunter-Rivages Hotel Guides have become the best-selling guides of their kind in both Europe and America. Originating in Paris, they set the standards for excellence with their fabulous color photographs, superb maps and candid descriptions of the most remarkable hotels of Europe. The Italy, Spain and Portu - gal books also contain restaurant guides for each country. All have a color atlas pinpointing the location of every hotel and inn. Previous editions were published by Fodor’s. Contents Introduction Geography & Terrain 1 History 3 Getting Around 5 Exchange Rate & Taxes 6 Adventures 7 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 14 Fauna & Flora 15 Sightseeing 16 Where To Stay & Eat 17 Information Sources 20 New Brunswick Introduction 21 New Brunswick’s Parks 22 Day Adventures 24 Fishing 26 Information Sources 26 The Quoddy Shore 27 Geography & History 28 Getting Around 28 Information Sources 30 Adventures 31 Adventures On Grand Manan 38 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 44 Sightseeing 48 Where To Stay & Eat 52 The Fundy Coast 57 Geography & History 59 Getting Around 60 Information Sources 62 Adventures 62 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 77 Sightseeing 85 Where To Stay & Eat 89 The Lower River Valley 96 Geography & History 98 Getting Around 98 Information Sources 99 Adventures 100 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 104 Sightseeing 107 Where To Stay & Eat 109 The Upper River Valley 112 Geography & History 112 Getting Around 113 Information Sources 113 Adventures 115 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 120 Sightseeing 122 Where to Stay & Eat 123 The Mountains 126 Geography & History 126 Getting Around 128 Information Sources 128 Adventures 128 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 133 Sightseeing 134 Where To Stay & Eat 135 The Acadian Coast 137 Geography & History 137 Getting Around 137 Information Sources 139 Adventures 139 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 152 Sightseeing 157 Where To Stay & Eat 160 The Miramichi 166 Geography & History 166 Getting Around 167 Information Sources 168 Adventures 168 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 178 Sightseeing 179 Where To Stay & Eat 182 The East Coast 184 Geography & History 185 Getting Around 185 Information Sources 185 Adventures 187 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 198 Sightseeing 203 Where To Stay & Eat 206 Nova Scotia Introduction 215 Getting to Nova Scotia 216 Nova Scotia’s Parks 218 Fishing 218 Information Sources 220 Chignecto 220 Geography & History 221 Getting Around 221 Adventures 223 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 230 Sightseeing 233 Where To Stay & Eat 236 The Evangeline Trail 239 Geography & History 239 viii n Canada’s Atlantic Provinces Getting Around 240 Information Sources 240 Adventures 240 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 254 Sightseeing 257 Where To Stay & Eat 260 The Southern Shore 265 Geography & History 265 Getting Around 266 Information Sources 266 Adventures 268 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 275 Sightseeing 276 Where To Stay & Eat 279 Halifax & Environs 284 Geography & History 284 Getting Around 285 Information Sources 286 Adventures 286 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 295 Sightseeing 297 Where To Stay & Eat 300 Marine Drive & The East 305 Geography & History 305 Getting Around 305 Information Sources 306 Adventures 306 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 312 Sightseeing 314 Where To Stay & Eat 317 Cape Breton Highlands 321 Geography & History 321 Getting Around 322 Information Sources 324 Adventures 324 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 336 Sightseeing 338 Where To Stay & Eat 341 Cape Breton Lakes 347 Geography & History 347 Getting Around 348 Information Sources 348 Adventures 349 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 356 Sightseeing 359 Where To Stay & Eat 363 Prince Edward Island Introduction 369 Geography 370 History 370 Getting Around 372 Contents n ix Information Sources 373 Adventures 374 Central Prince Edward Island 380 Getting Around 382 Information Sources 382 Adventures 383 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 395 Sightseeing 397 Where To Stay 405 Where To Eat 410 Eastern Prince Edward Island 413 Getting Around 414 Information Sources 414 Adventures 414 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 425 Sightseeing 426 Where To Stay 431 Where To Eat 434 Western Prince Edward Island 436 Getting Around 436 Information Sources 437 Adventures 437 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 445 Sightseeing 448 Where To Stay 454 Where To Eat 457 Newfoundland Introduction 461 A Separate History 463 Getting Around 464 Newfoundland’s Parks 468 Flora & Fauna 470 Fishing 471 Information Sources 472 The Avalon Peninsula 473 Geography & History 473 Getting Around 475 Information Sources 476 Adventures 476 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 486 Sightseeing 494 Where To Stay & Eat 497 Bonavista & Terra Nova 500 Geography & History 500 Getting Around 502 Information Sources 502 Adventures 502 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 510 Sightseeing 512 Where To Stay & Eat 513 x n Canada’s Atlantic Provinces [...]... Peninsula Geography & History Getting Around Information Sources Adventures Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences Sightseeing Where To Stay & Eat Gander & The Kittiwake Coast Geography & History Getting Around Information Sources Adventures Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences Sightseeing Where To Stay & Eat The Exploits Valley & Baie Verte Geography & History Getting Around Information Sources Adventures Cultural... Sightseeing Where To Stay & Eat Bay d’Espoir & Fortune Bay Geography & History Getting Around Information Sources Adventures Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences Sightseeing Where To Stay & Eat The Great Northern Peninsula Geography & History Getting Around Information Sources Adventures Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences Sightseeing Where To Stay & Eat Southwest Newfoundland Geography & History Getting Around... can fly to all the other major cities and areas n Rental Cars Once in the Maritime Provinces (a designation which, you might be interested to know, includes the lower three, but not Newfoundland, which is part of the broader Atlantic Provinces group), you can move on to Charlottetown, Moncton, Saint John or Fredericton by air Car rental is available at all airports, although you should reserve a car... find yourself too close to active whales, rap your paddle against the kayak sharply, making as much noise as you can, and leave the area quickly What happens if you’re a learning paddler and on the sea when a strong wind blows up? Your guide and instructor should have a tow line, and will simply attach it to your kayak and tow you inshore out of the wind, while you rest If you are planning to paddle in... filled with historic sites and restorations – after all, the history of European settlement in the New World began here Forts and defensive positions remain from the early wars between Britain and France over who would own this part of North America Nearly every town has its little historical museum, and we like to take time to poke about in these small community attics Some are beautifully restored period... these provinces – Atlantic Canada – you get a hint about the ratio of land to water: sea surrounds, for all practical purposes, three of the four provinces, and forms more than half the boundaries of the fourth Rivers form a network across the land, and lakes and ponds dot it There is a lot of water to play on here Canoeing The same safety precautions that apply to canoeing anywhere apply in Atlantic. .. drink of “screech,” a fierce and fiery high-proof rum guaranteed to warm you to the toes of your woolly socks Geography & Terrain Border disputes have never been an issue among the four Atlantic provinces, where water separates them all (except for a tiny umbilical cord that holds Nova Scotia to New Brunswick) Although firmly attached to the continent on the west, where it borders both Maine and Québec,... sizes: a town as small as Tyne Valley, on PEI, has a busy summer theater; artistry in traditional crafts is maintained by a full-credit college in Fredericton Restored opera houses in Moncton and Saint John, both in New Brunswick, provide venues for an active symphony orchestra Charlottetown, on Prince Edward Island, has a year-round center for the performing arts, home each summer to the Charlottetown... you to turn and run, but that is exactly what you should not do Bears can outrun you easily, and are very likely to give chase Talk calmly in a low voice as you retreat (right, that’s easy for us to say, you’re thinking) and don’t play dead Black bears eat dead mammals You’re far more likely to see moose If you see a moose when you are on foot and have no car or cabin to retreat to, don’t try to get... Driving in the Maritime Provinces You can drive from New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island, thanks to the whopping new Confederation Bridge that was completed in 1997 To make a tidy circular route from New Brunwick to PEI and back, you can use the bridge one way and the ferry from Wood Islands to Caribou, Nova Scotia, on the other Rules of the road are pretty much the same in Atlantic Canada as they . inter - ested to know, includes the lower three, but not Newfoundland, which is part of the broader Atlantic Provinces group), you can move on to Charlottetown, Moncton, Saint John or Fredericton by. closest point to the other Atlantic provinces is Cape Breton Island, a five-hour ferry ride away. Cape Breton Island itself lies off the northeast end of Nova Scotia, attached to it since the. & History 500 Getting Around 502 Information Sources 502 Adventures 502 Cultural & Eco-Travel Experiences 510 Sightseeing 512 Where To Stay & Eat 513 x n Canada’s Atlantic Provinces The