culture shock! syria

Syria A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Coleman South cs! syria.indd 1 7/9/10 3:29:07 PM A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Syria Coleman South Syria.indb i 8/2/10 2:24:40 PM This 4th edition published in 2011 by: Marshall Cavendish Corporation 99 White Plains Road Tarrytown, NY 10591-9001 www.marshallcavendish.us First published in 1995 by Times Editions Pte Ltd, reprinted 1996, 1997, 1998; 2nd edition published in 2001; 3rd edition published in 2008 by Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited. Copyright © 2008, 2011 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Request for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300, fax: (65) 6285 4871. E-mail: genref@sg.marshallcavendish.com The publisher makes no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this book, and specifi cally disclaims any implied warranties or merchantability or fi tness for any particular purpose, and shall in no event be liable for any loss of profi t or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. Other Marshall Cavendish Offi ces: Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited. 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196  Marshall Cavendish International. PO Box 65829, London EC1P 1NY, UK  Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd. 253 Asoke, 12th Flr, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand  Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia Marshall Cavendish is a trademark of Times Publishing Limited IISBN 13: 978-0-7614-5880-7 Please contact the publisher for the Library of Congress catalog number Printed in Singapore by Times Printers Pte Ltd Photo Credits: All black and white photos by the author. Colour photos from Photolibrary.  Cover photo: Photolibrary All illustrations by TRIGG Syria.indb ii 8/2/10 2:24:41 PM ABOUT THE SERIES Culture shock is a state of disorientation that can come over anyone who has been thrust into unknown surroundings, away from one’s comfort zone. CultureShock! is a series of trusted and reputed guides which has, for decades, been helping expatriates and long-term visitors to cushion the impact of culture shock whenever they move to a new country. Written by people who have lived in the country and experienced culture shock themselves, the authors share all the information necessary for anyone to cope with these feelings of disorientation more effectively. The guides are written in a style that is easy to read and cover a range of topics that will arm readers with enough advice, hints and tips to make their lives as normal as possible again. Each book is structured in the same manner. It begins with the first impressions that visitors will have of that city or country. To understand a culture, one must first understand the people—where they came from, who they are, the values and traditions they live by, as well as their customs and etiquette. This is covered in the first half of the book. Then on with the practical aspects—how to settle in with the greatest of ease. Authors walk readers through topics such as how to find accommodation, get the utilities and telecommunications up and running, enrol the children in school and keep in the pink of health. But that’s not all. Once the essentials are out of the way, venture out and try the food, enjoy more of the culture and travel to other areas. Then be immersed in the language of the country before discovering more about the business side of things. To round off, snippets of basic information are offered before readers are ‘tested’ on customs and etiquette of the country. Useful words and phrases, a comprehensive resource guide and list of books for further research are also included for easy reference. Syria.indb iii 8/2/10 2:24:41 PM CONTENTS Preface vi Acknowledgements ix Map of Syria x Chapter 1 First Impressions 1 Coming in for a Landing 2 Damascus: Streets and Sidewalks 4 Damascus: Other Curiosities 12 Chapter 2 Overview of Land and History 15 A Geography Lesson 16 The Population 19 History 20 Ancient History 20 History Under Islam 24 20th Century History 26 The Government and Ba’ath Party 31 The Economy 35 Government Support vs Opposition 40 Uncertainty About the Future 45 Chapter 3 People 47 The Syrians 48 Social Intensity 50 Attitudes About Life 53 Family Orientation 55 Group Thinking 58 Other Characteristics 60 Religiosity 64 Bedouins and Villagers 70 Families and Women 72 Jobs and Other Opportunities for Spouses 72 Children 75 Miscellaneous 77 Foreign Women in Syria 78 Chapter 4 Socialising with the Locals 84 At a Syrian Home 85 Other Socialising 88 Some Precautions 93 Behaviour Between Women and Men 95 Chapter 5 Settling In 96 Finding a Home 98 The Contract and Payment 108 Utility Charges 109 Things to Bring with You 111 Domestic Help 112 Urban Transportation 113 Dealing with Bureaucracy 117 Legal System 121 Money and Banking 121 Shopping for Basics 125 Other Home Products and Services 133 Health and Medical 135 Miscellaneous 137 Chapter 6 Food and Entertainment 139 Dining Out 140 Chapter 7 Enjoying the Culture/Travel 147 Seeing and Being Seen 148 Shopping 148 Cinema, Theatre, Concerts, Galleries 151 Odds and Ends 156 Things Not Available 161 Holidays and Celebrations 161 Domestic Travel 163 Syria.indb iv 8/2/10 2:24:41 PM Getting Around 173 Lodging 176 Regional Travel 177 Group Travel 182 Chapter 8 Learning the Language 183 Differences in Usage 185 Other Differences 187 Some Useful Words and Expressions 190 Body Language 195 Arabic Dialects and Other Languages 196 Chapter 9 Doing Business in Syria 200 Economic and Related Situations 201 Social Aspects of Doing Business 209 Chapter 10 Fast Facts 214 Famous People 218 Places of Interest 219 Culture Quiz 220 Do’s and Don’ts 234 Glossary 237 Resource Guide 245 Further Reading 254 About the Author 259 Index 260 Syria.indb v 8/2/10 2:24:41 PM vi PREFACE In the early 1990s I finished an M.A. in TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of other Languages) with the specific intent of living and teaching overseas—a mid-life career change. I got my first job teaching English overseas in Damascus and began searching both the local public library and the library at my university for up-to-date information about Syria and found next to nothing. My university had 17,000 students and the metro area of the public library had over a million people, yet what little printed material I could find about Syria was either terribly dated or written by ex-CIA staffers who had served time there; and all of it was political or historical material that told nothing of what to expect as a resident of modern Syria, how to behave, what I should take with me, etc. The purpose of this book is to help others going to Syria for the first time with not only cultural information, but with information about daily living there. It is assumed that the reader knows little or nothing about Syria, and even those who have lived in the Persian Gulf states, Israel, Turkey, or other countries of the region, are in for some surprises in Syria. There’s no other place like it, not even Jordan or Lebanon. While living there, I often got the feeling that I resided in a living museum, yet there’s a certain vitality of life that seems as new as it is timeless. Syria does things in its own way and in its own time. This book should help not only those who plan to live in Syria, but also those who plan to travel in the country, containing as it does some intimate information that is not included in the few travel guides one can buy for Syria. There’s one rather substantial caveat, though: I am Caucasian and thus my personal experiences with Syrians reflect that. Why is that important? Because sadly, Arabs in general and Syrians along with the rest of them, can be racist, basing their prejudice primarily on skin colour and secondly on country of origin. Arab culture seems to have a totem pole in which White Westerners are at the top with Arabs being nearly equal or slightly below them; at the absolute bottom are Black Africans, with lighter-skinned Blacks from Western countries being just slightly above the Africans. Those who typically do the lowest-level jobs in rich Arab societies such as servants, Syria.indb vi 8/2/10 2:24:41 PM vii nannies, maids, road workers, etc. (Sri Lankans, Filipinos/as, Bangladeshis and Pakistanis) are also near the bottom of this social totem. Similarly, darker-skinned Hispanics and Chinese, Koreans or Japanese (many of whom may be mistaken as Filipinos/as or Southeast Asians) will also likely not be treated as well as I was by many Syrians, but they seem to put the lighter-skinned people from eastern Asian groups up higher on their totem pole. When I was in Damascus, I knew a Black American student who actually got spit at a couple of times and had insults hurled at him from passing cars. He also had trouble finding a place to live as most landlords/rental agents didn’t want to rent to him. On the other hand, a Japanese acquaintance who was quite light-skinned seemed to be treated similarly to me. I hate to make broad generalisations such as this one and to accuse a whole group of people of such negative characteristics (and of course, not all Syrians will react negatively to you), but it was not uncommon for those of darker skin to have unpleasant experiences with some Syrian people based on their skin color. This may, however, have changed for the better in recent times. Syria.indb vii 8/2/10 2:24:41 PM Syria.indb viii 8/2/10 2:24:42 PM ix ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I want to thank my friend Samer of Damascus for his assistance and information plus the many nameless Syrians from whom I learned so much about their culture, beliefs and way of life. I also want to thank the Marshall Cavendish staff in general and specifically the editors Sylvy Soh and Melvin Neo for their assistance at various stages of this revision. Syria.indb ix 8/2/10 2:24:42 PM [...]...MAP OF SYRIA x MEDITERR ANEAN S EA TURKEY SYRIA LEBANON DAMASCUS IRAQ JORDAN FIRST IMPRESSIONS CHAPTER 1 ‘We’re not in Kansas anymore, Toto.’ —Dorothy, in The Wizard of Oz 2 CultureShock! Syria about the peculiarities of Syrian Arab Airlines (or just Syrian Air, as it’s usually called), and he laughed and said, “Well, there’s only one Syria, so there’s only one Syrian Air!” There’s only one Syria summarises... Syrian tourist brochure 16 CultureShock! Syria A GEOGRAPHY LESSON Modern Syria (officially, the Syrian Arab Republic or SAR) was once part of a larger area that included what are now the countries of Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and Israel This area has been called the Levant, Greater Syria and Bilad ash-Sham (the Arab name) and is still often referred to as the Levant The country of Syria is shaped somewhat... columns are built from stone, nice woodwork or elaborate metalwork An example of the elaborate new architecture that Syrians seem to favour 12 CultureShock! Syria The newer mosques in particular are outstanding in their simple aesthetics and geometric designs Their minarets have a unique Syrian design, those in neighbouring Islamic countries being noticeably different An exception in embassy design is... traffic confusion is the raging noise To begin with, many vehicles have no mufflers Then, Syrians honk their horns at everything and nothing (Former Monty Python member Michael Palin, commented that Egyptian horns were hooked to both brake and gas pedals—an appropriate description of Syria, as well.) When 6 CultureShock! Syria you’re walking the streets or sidewalks, the din actually hurts, and I often had... while only about 3.7 per cent was over 65 years of age—truly a culture of youth As is the case 20 CultureShock! Syria all over the Middle East and North Africa, population growth is straining the fragile ecology and economy of the area with pollution, garbage, crowding and demand for nonexistent jobs and water Despite these and other problems, Syrians are notorious for their friendliness and hospitality,... now Syria From their capital in Damascus, they developed extensive overland trade with Asia 22 CultureShock! Syria The Aramaeans adapted the Phoenician alphabet for use with their own language, Aramaic, which eventually became the official language of the Persian empire This is the language Christ spoke, and it is still spoken today in and around Maalula It is also used in the liturgy of the Syrian... years later, Syria became part of the Persian empire Then, in 2333 BP, Alexander the Great conquered it and it remained a Hellenistic outpost until it became part of the Roman empire in the 22nd century BP It took time for the Romans to establish themselves throughout Syria, but once they did, it became a major part of the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) empire for hundreds of 24 CultureShock! Syria Halebiyeh... mountainous land along the Turkish border and the irrigated land along the three main rivers, is high steppe and desert—not drifting sand dunes as in the Sahara, but rocky land The Syrian Desert covers most of Jordan, Iraq 18 CultureShock! Syria and northern Saudi Arabia as well It is different from North American deserts, which support a profusion of life There is little vegetation other than sparse clumps... at passing 14 CultureShock! Syria women, they are non-threatening I like to think of them as at least token protection from murderous religious and political factions In reality, however, their ubiquitous presence owes as much to pragmatism—a way to use an idle army—as to anything else Another thing that will certainly catch your attention if you’re unfamiliar with Mediterranean and Arab culture are... repressive culture would tolerate it Now I realise that you can simply take it at face value: men here are affectionate with each other, and they show it in the same manner they have for generations And, it’s far more pleasant than the macho posturing one sees in so many other places OVERVIEW OF LAND AND HISTORY CHAPTER 2 ‘Every cultured man belongs to two nations: his own and Syria. ’ —from a Syrian tourist . Syria A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Coleman South cs! syria. indd 1 7/9/10 3:29:07 PM A Survival Guide to Customs and Etiquette CultureShock! Syria Coleman South Syria. indb. IMPRESSIONS CHAPTER 1 Syria. indb 1 8/2/10 2:24:47 PM 2 CultureShock! Syria I WAS TALKING WITH A YOUNG SYRIAN FRIEND about the peculiarities of Syrian Arab Airlines (or just Syrian Air, as it’s. to both brake and gas pedals—an appropriate description of Syria, as well.) When Syria. indb 5 8/2/10 2:24:47 PM 6 CultureShock! Syria you’re walking the streets or sidewalks, the din actually