Material 교육자료 Material 성승재 이사 Director of Technical Design (TDS) contents A 섬유 (fiber / yarn / dyeing / 원단) B 라벨 C 재봉사 D 지퍼 E 단추 F 스냅 G 훅앤아이 H 심지 I 기타 − The raw materia[.]
Material 성성성 성성 Director of Technical Design (TDS) contents A 섬섬 (fiber / yarn / dyeing / fiber / yarn / dyeing / 섬섬 ) B 섬섬 C 섬섬섬 D 섬섬 E 섬섬 F 섬섬 G 섬섬섬섬 H 섬섬 I 섬섬 A 섬섬 (Fiber)Fiber) − The raw materials for the manufacture of textile Classification of Fiber Animal fiber Natural fiber ( 천천 천천 ) Vegetable fiber •Wool •Cashmere •Mohair •Alpaca •Camel •Angora Rabbit hair •Silk •Cotton •Linen •Ramie Classification of Fiber •Viscose rayon (Wood Pulp) •Acetate (Cotton Linter + acetic acid) Regenerated Fiber Man-made Fiber ( 천천 천천 ) •Lyocell (Wood “Tencel”) •Bamboo •Modal (Beech Tree - act like Cotton) Synthetic Fiber •Acrylic •Polyamide (Nylon) •Polyester •Polyurethane (Spandex) •Metallic Yarn Count A)Indirect Yarn Count System Higher the count number, finer the yarn Lower the count number, coarser the yarn Cotton Count – used on cotton yarn and most of the cotton blended yarns such as acrylic cotton, or ramie cotton yarn - NeC, which is a symbol of (Fiber)N) Numbering (Fiber)e) English (Fiber)C) Cotton count - ‘s ‘ is short form Example : 20’s/2 100% Cotton , 28’s/2 60% Cotton 40% Linen ***1/1 Ne = 840 yard length of yarn per pound*** Metric Yarn Count (Fiber) Numbering metric Nm) – Application for the single cotton, wool or blend with wool, fa ncy yarn and man-made fiber Spinning Metric (SNm) and Dyeing Metric (DNm) - SNm refers to the yarn before any treatment - DNm refers to the yarn swelled after the dyeing process Example : A 32SNm/2 100% acrylic yarn changes to 24DNm/2 after dyeing ***1/1 Nm = 1000m length of yarn per kg*** Yarn Count B) Direct Yarn Count System Higher the count number, coarser the yarn Lower the count number, finer the yarn Denier （ Td ) - This is used on filament yarn such as viscose rayon, polyester etc * 625D = weighs 625 gram and is 9000 meter long TEX - equals the number of grams in one km of yarn * 69.5 TEX = 1000 meter yarn weighs 69.5 gram 2-ply of 1/20 Ne = 2/20 Ne or (Fiber)2/20Ne÷2)=1/10Ne 3-ply of 1/28 Nm = 3/28 Nm or (Fiber)3/28Nm÷3)=1/9.3 Nm 2-ply of 2/28 Nm = 4/28 Nm or (Fiber)4/28Nm÷4)=1/7 Nm Dyeing Top Dyeing It is dyed on the fiber, then spinning into a yarn Characteristic: Applied for heather and mélange yarn; long production lead time as the lab dip process and yarn spinning cannot be done at the same time; suitable for cotton, acrylic, nylon, wool, angora … etc Top dyeing process: Raw fiber (Fiber)tops) Ready for dyeing Dyed fiber ... / yarn / dyeing / 섬섬 ) B 섬섬 C 섬섬섬 D 섬섬 E 섬섬 F 섬섬 G 섬섬섬섬 H 섬섬 I 섬섬 A 섬섬 (Fiber)Fiber) − The raw materials for the manufacture of textile Classification of Fiber Animal fiber Natural fiber ( 천천