As with dried spices, the flavor of the chiles can be enhanced by toasting them dry (see “Whole Versus Ground Spices,” here) This accomplishes two goals: First, the heat catalyzes reactions among individual compounds within the chili, creating new flavors Second, the Maillard browning reaction takes place, resulting in hundreds of highly flavorful new compounds After toasting, I could go the traditional route and simply combine the chiles and grind them into a powder, but I’m not one to bow to tradition Instead, I found that by cooking them down in chicken stock and pureeing the moist chiles, I could create a completely grit-free paste for a concentrated flavor base for my chili The best part? If I made a double or triple batch, I could freeze the puree in ice cube trays for long-term storage, giving me the convenience of jarred chili powder but vastly better texture and flavor I use a chile puree instead of powder for better flavor and texture The Meat Aside from beans, the meat is the biggest source of contention among chili lovers Some (like my lovely wife) insist on ground beef, while others (like me) prefer larger stew-like chunks More often than not, I begrudgingly let my wife have her way, which is why this time I was determined to fight for my own rights—or, at the very least, make her compromise her chili convictions After trying store-ground beef, home-ground beef, beef cut into 1-inch chunks, and beef roughly chopped by hand or in a food processor into a textured mix of ⅛- to ½-inch ...I use a chile puree instead of powder for better flavor and texture The Meat Aside from beans, the meat is the biggest source of contention among chili lovers Some (like my lovely wife) insist on ground beef, while others (like me)... determined to fight for my own rights—or, at the very least, make her compromise her chili convictions After trying store-ground beef, home- ground beef, beef cut into 1-inch chunks, and beef roughly chopped by hand or in a food processor