600 grams (about 21 ounces/4 cups) bread flour 7 grams (1 packet/about 2 teaspoons) instant or rapid-rise yeast 12 grams (about 0.4 ounce/2½ teaspoons) kosher salt 24 grams (about 0.8 ounce/5 teaspoons) sugar 360 grams (12.75 ounces/1½ cups plus 1 tablespoon) fullfat yogurt or whole milk, or as necessary 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted TO MAKE THE DOUGH Combine the flour, yeast, salt, and sugar in the bowl of stand mixer and whisk until combined Add the yogurt and knead with the dough hook on low speed until the dough comes together into a smooth ball; it should stick slightly to the bottom of the bowl as it is kneaded (add a little more yogurt or milk if necessary) Continue to knead until slightly elastic, about 5 minutes Cover tightly with plastic wrap and allow to rise at room temperature until roughly doubled in volume, about 2 hours Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface Using a bench scraper or a knife, cut it into 12 even pieces Roll each piece into a ball, then place on a well-floured surface (leaving a few inches of space between them) and cover with a floured cloth (Alternatively, place each ball of dough in a covered pint-sized deli container.) Allow to rise at room temperature until doubled in volume, about 2 hours TO COOK ON THE GRILL Ignite a chimneyful of coals When the coals are coated in gray ash, pour out and spread evenly over one side of the grill Set the grill grate in place, cover, and allow to preheat for minutes Or, if using a gas grill, heat it to high Scrape the grill grate clean Working with one ball of dough at a time, with your hands, stretch the dough into an oblong roughly 10 inches long and inches across (or use a rolling pin) Once you have two or three pieces stretched, lay them out on the grill (above the coals) and cook, without moving them, until the tops are bubbled and blistered and the bottoms are charred in spots and light golden brown, 30 seconds to 1 minute Flip with a large spatula, a pizza peel, or tongs and cook until the second side is charred and browned, another 30 seconds to minute Remove from the grill and immediately brush with melted butter Transfer to a large plate and cover with a clean dish towel while you cook the remaining breads, stacking them as you make them TO COOK ON THE STOVETOP Heat a large ridged grill pan over medium-high heat for at least 10 minutes Meanwhile, with your hands, stretch one ball of dough into an oblong roughly 10 inches long and inches across (or use a rolling pin) Lay it in the grill pan and cook, without moving it, until the top is covered in bubbles and the bottom is charred along the grill marks and pale brown across the rest of its surface, to 1½ minutes Carefully flip, using a metal spatula or tongs, ... have two or three pieces stretched, lay them out on the grill (above the coals) and cook, without moving them, until the tops are bubbled and blistered and the bottoms are charred in spots and light golden brown,... across (or use a rolling pin) Lay it in the grill pan and cook, without moving it, until the top is covered in bubbles and the bottom is charred along the grill marks and pale brown across the rest... Transfer to a large plate and cover with a clean dish towel while you cook the remaining breads, stacking them as you make them TO COOK ON THE STOVETOP Heat a large ridged grill pan over medium-high heat for