them together with the sauce ingredients into a sort of hot salad that’s decorous enough to consume with impunity in mixed company I tend to make esquites when I don’t want to bother firing up the grill, because truth be told, it’s just as tasty and easy to make indoors as it is out The key for cooking esquites indoors is to remove the kernels from the cobs before you cook them, then cook them in a ripping-hot wok (you can use a skillet, though it’s a bit messier), letting them sit in place until the sugars caramelize and you get a deep, dark char before tossing and letting them char again When it’s done right, a few kernels will jump and pop just like popcorn I’ve had kernels leap clear across the kitchen on occasion A careful eye and a splatter guard will protect you from any corn-kernel mortar fire Once the corn is charred, toss it, still hot, with the remaining ingredients It can be served straightaway, but it is just as good at room temperature, making it an ideal picnic dish SERVES 4 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 ears corn, shucked and kernels removed (about 3 cups kernels) Kosher salt 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 ounces Cotija or feta cheese, finely crumbled, or 2 ounces Pecorino Romano, grated ½ cup finely sliced scallion greens ½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped 1 jalapo pepper, seeded and finely chopped 1 to 2 medium cloves garlic, minced or grated on a Microplane (1 to 2 teaspoons) 1 tablespoon lime juice (from 1 lime) ... 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped 1 to 2 medium cloves garlic, minced or grated on a Microplane (1 to 2 teaspoons) 1 tablespoon lime juice (from 1 lime) ...SERVES 4 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 ears corn, shucked and kernels removed (about 3 cups kernels) Kosher salt 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 ounces Cotija or feta cheese, finely crumbled, or 2