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Traditional porchetta is made by butchering a hog so that the boned-out loin is still attached to the boned-out belly The meat is then carefully salted and rubbed with a garlic, herb, and spice mixture that features plenty of fennel and black pepper, along with ingredients like crushed red pepper, citrus zest, and rosemary, sage, and other pineyscented herbs (you can, of course, vary the mixture to suit your own tastes) By carefully rolling the two cuts up together, you end up with a single perfectly cylindrical roast with the fatty belly surrounding the lean loin, all covered in a layer of skin As the rolled porchetta rests, the salt slowly penetrates into the meat, dissolving the muscle protein myosin and altering its structure so that it’s able to retain moisture more effectively, as well as giving it a slightly bouncier, more resilient texture (think sausage or ham, not rubber ball) When the pork is subsequently roasted, the fatty belly portion, rich in juices and connective tissues, ostensibly helps keep the relatively dry loin moist But we all know that this isn’t really how cooking works All the fat in the world surrounding a lean, tightly textured muscle like a pork loin will not help keep it moist if you cook it past 150°F or so, and, indeed, many porchettas I’ve had have had some unconscionably dry centers because of this But belly, with its extensive network of connective tissue and abundant fat content, needs to be cooked to at least 160°F for a couple of hours in order for that tissue to slowly break down and for some of the fat to render Loin needs to stay below 150°F, belly needs to get above 160°F You can see the problem here So why do traditional porchetta recipes call for both belly and loin? My guess is that at the time porchetta was invented, hogs hadn’t yet been bred to have large, lean loins, and thus there wasn’t as big a distinction between the belly and the loin sections Both would have had plenty of fat and connective tissue, making both totally tasty even when cooked to a higher temperature Today, we need a better solution, and here’s one: discard the loin and go for an all-belly porchetta instead We all know that pork belly—the cut that the magnificence that is bacon comes from—is the king of pork cuts, and that pork is the king of meats, and that meats are the Masters of the Universe This makes eating an all-belly porchetta somewhat akin to consuming an aromatic, crispy, salty slab of awesome seasoned with He-Man Or something like that You get the picture ... need a better solution, and here’s one: discard the loin and go for an all-belly porchetta instead We all know that pork belly? ?the cut that the magnificence that is bacon comes from—is the king of pork... My guess is that at the time porchetta was invented, hogs hadn’t yet been bred to have large, lean loins, and thus there wasn’t as big a distinction between the belly and the loin sections Both...resilient texture (think sausage or ham, not rubber ball) When the pork is subsequently roasted, the fatty belly portion, rich in juices and connective tissues, ostensibly helps keep the relatively dry loin moist
Ngày đăng: 25/10/2022, 23:03
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