light a fire in an outdoor grill and roast your chiles over the glowing embers until completely blackened all over For us apartment dwellers, roasting them over an open gas flame or under a broiler works just as well The goal here is total carbonization of the exterior As it heats, the liquid just under the surface converts to steam, forcing the skin outward and away from the flesh This small area of air and water vapor just under the skin insulates the flesh underneath, preventing it from burning After the peppers are completely blackened, the loosened skin slips right off, leaving the flesh clean and uncharred but infused with deep smoky flavor from the charred skin The Tomatillos Even among the less zealous chiliheads out there, tomatillos are a point of contention Although tomatillos are a member of the same family as tomatoes (though completely different from unripe green tomatoes), it’s actually most closely related to gooseberries The flavors of the two—dominated by a citrus-like tartness with a distinct, savory finish—are remarkably similar as well, though gooseberries tend to be sweeter One of the great things about tomatillos is that they are also quite high in pectin, the sugar-based jelling agent that is the primary thickener in most jellies If you include tomatillos, you don’t really need any other thickener in your chili (many classic tomatillo-less recipes call for flour or another starch), and the tartness it brings to the party is a welcome flavor addition as well I char mine under the broiler to maximize that smoky aroma It’s in recipes like these when the importance of every detail really comes out: Charring every surface of the chiles to maximize smokiness Carefully monitoring your roasting tomatillos so that they char and soften while still retaining some of their fresh acidity Sometimes the process of slowly, deliberately building flavors is just as rewarding as the finished dish ... tomatillos, you don’t really need any other thickener in your chili (many classic tomatillo-less recipes call for flour or another starch), and the tartness it brings to the party is a welcome flavor... gooseberries tend to be sweeter One of the great things about tomatillos is that they are also quite high in pectin, the sugar-based jelling agent that is the primary thickener in most jellies...of the same family as tomatoes (though completely different from unripe green tomatoes), it’s actually most closely related to gooseberries The flavors of the two—dominated by