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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 587

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waxy types (true new potatoes and common U.S red-and white-skinned varieties), neighboring cells cohere even when cooked, which gives them a solid, dense, moist texture, and holds them together in intact pieces for gratins, potato cakes, and salads Both types can be made firmer and more coherent, less prone to the “sloughing” of outer layers when boiled, by treating them to the low-temperature precooking that strengthens cell walls (p 283) Cooked potatoes sometimes develop a large internal region of bluish-gray discoloration This “after-cooking darkening” is caused by the combination of iron ions, a phenolic substance (chlorogenic acid), and oxygen, which react to form a pigmented complex This problem can be minimized in boiled potatoes by making the pH of the water distinctly acidic with cream of tartar or lemon juice after the potatoes are half-cooked The flavor of boiled potatoes is dominated by the intensified earthy and fatty, fruity, and flowery notes of the raw tuber Baked potatoes develop another layer of flavor from the browning reactions (p.777), including malty and “sweet” aromas (methylbutanal, methional) Leftover potatoes often suffer from a stale, cardboard-like flavor that develops over several days in the refrigerator, but within a few hours if the potatoes are kept hot for prolonged service It turns out that the aromatic fragments of membrane lipids are temporarily stabilized by the tuber’s antioxidant vitamin C; but with time the vitamin C is used up and the fragments become oxidized to a series of less pleasant aldehydes Potatoes are prepared in many ways, and used as an ingredient in many dishes Here are brief notes on a few starring roles Mashed and Pureed Potatoes There are many different styles of mashed potatoes, but ...by the intensified earthy and fatty, fruity, and flowery notes of the raw tuber Baked potatoes develop another layer of flavor from the browning reactions (p.777), including malty and “sweet” aromas (methylbutanal,... hot for prolonged service It turns out that the aromatic fragments of membrane lipids are temporarily stabilized by the tuber’s antioxidant vitamin C; but with time the vitamin C is used up and the fragments... and “sweet” aromas (methylbutanal, methional) Leftover potatoes often suffer from a stale, cardboard-like flavor that develops over several days in the refrigerator, but within a few hours if the potatoes are kept

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