On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1034

interrupts the gluten-water network, fat because it bonds to fat-loving portions of the gluten chains and prevents them from bonding to each other Rich doughs are therefore relatively soft and fragile Bakers often build them by holding back the fat and sugar and kneading these in only after developing the gluten network, and then bake the doughs in containers that support their weight and prevent them from sagging and flattening Large amounts of sugar slow the growth of yeast by dehydrating the cells, so sweet doughs are often made with more yeast than ordinary breads, and they may take longer to rise Sugar also makes sweet doughs prone to begin browning early in the baking, so they’re usually baked at a relatively low oven temperature to prevent the surface from browning before the interior has set French brioche dough is especially rich in butter and eggs It’s often retarded (chilled, p 539) for 6–18 hours to stiffen it, then rolled out and briefly rested This makes the dough easier to handle and form before its final rise Italian panettone and pandoro are remarkable holiday breads that are enriched with large quantities of sugar, egg yolks, and butter, but that keep well because they are built from a sourdough that starts with a naturally leavened sponge Gluten-Free Breads People whose immune systems are intolerant of gluten must avoid wheat and its close relatives, and therefore can’t eat ordinary bread, where gluten plays a major role in texture A reasonable facsimile of raised bread can be made with gluten-free flours or starches — rice flour, for example — that are supplemented with xanthan gum and emulsifiers The gum, which is secreted by a bacterium and purified from industrialscale fermenters, provides a modest glutenlike elasticity, while the emulsifiers stabilize the gas bubbles and slow the diffusion of ...out and briefly rested This makes the dough easier to handle and form before its final rise Italian panettone and pandoro are remarkable holiday breads that are enriched with large quantities of sugar, egg yolks, and butter, but... intolerant of gluten must avoid wheat and its close relatives, and therefore can’t eat ordinary bread, where gluten plays a major role in texture A reasonable facsimile of raised bread can be made with... xanthan gum and emulsifiers The gum, which is secreted by a bacterium and purified from industrialscale fermenters, provides a modest glutenlike elasticity, while the emulsifiers stabilize the gas