notes, and contain little or no safrole, a compound that’s prominent in the tree’s roots and bark, and that used to give root beer its characteristic flavor until it was found to be a likely carcinogen (see hoja santa below) Other Common Herbs Borage Borage is a medium-sized Mediterranean native, Borago officinalis, with bright blue flowers and large, fuzzy leaves that have the distinct flavor of cucumber, thanks to enzymes that convert its fatty acids into the same nine-carbon chain (nonanal) produced by cucumber enzymes It was once a common ingredient of mixed salads (see the recipe on p 251) Plants in the borage family accumulate potentially toxic alkaloids, so borage should be eaten in moderation Capers Capers are the unopened flower buds of a Mediterranean bush, Capparis spinosa, which have been gathered from the wild and pickled for thousands of years, though cultivated only for a couple of centuries The caper bush is distantly related to the cabbage family and has its pungent sulfur compounds, which dominate in the raw flower bud The bud is preserved in various ways — in brine, in vinegar, dry-salted — and used as a soursalty accent in sauces and dishes, especially with fish When drysalted, the caper bud undergoes an astonishing transformation: its radish and onion notes are displaced by the distinct aroma (from ionone and raspberry ketone) of violets and raspberries! Curry Leaf Curry leaf is the leaf of a small tree in the citrus family, Murraya koenigii, a native of south Asia It is primarily used in south India and Malaysia, where households often have their own plant and add it to many dishes Despite its name, the curry leaf doesn’t taste like Indian curries; it is mild and ... astonishing transformation: its radish and onion notes are displaced by the distinct aroma (from ionone and raspberry ketone) of violets and raspberries! Curry Leaf Curry leaf is the leaf of. ..which have been gathered from the wild and pickled for thousands of years, though cultivated only for a couple of centuries The caper bush is distantly related to the cabbage family and has its pungent sulfur compounds,... of a small tree in the citrus family, Murraya koenigii, a native of south Asia It is primarily used in south India and Malaysia, where households often have their own plant and add it to many