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The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 354

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less aged the meat was, the more moisture it expelled Why is this? One of the side effects of aging is the breakdown of meat proteins and connective tissue This makes the meat more tender, as well as causing it to contract less as it cooks Less contraction = less moisture loss When all was said and done, in many cases, the meat that was 100 percent fresh ended up losing more liquid than dryaged meat Finally, a simple taste test was the nail in the coffin: meat dry-aged for 21 days (the period during which the largest change in density of the interior meat occurs) was indistinguishable from fresh meat in terms of flavor The improvements were only in texture It wasn’t until between the 30- and 60-day marks that noticeable changes in flavor occurred, and during that time period, there was essentially no change in internal density Thus, moisture loss is not tied to flavor change Q: Why does meat being aged stop losing moisture after the first few weeks? It’s a matter of permeability As meat loses moisture, its muscle fibers get more and more closely packed, making it more and more difficult for moisture under the surface to escape After the first few weeks, the outer layer of meat is so tight and tough that it is virtually impermeable to moisture loss Q: If it’s not moisture loss, what factors do affect the flavor of aged beef? A couple of things: The first is enzymatic breakdown of muscle proteins into shorter fragments, which alters their flavor in desirable ways But this effect is completely secondary to the far more important change that occurs when fat is exposed to oxygen—it’s the oxidation of fat as well as bacterial action on the surfaces of the meat that cause the most profound flavor change, the funkiness you get in meat that has been aged for over 30 days It’s true, though, that much of this funky flavor is concentrated on the outermost portions of the meat—the parts that largely get trimmed away—and for this reason, if you want to get the most out of your aged meat, it’s essential that you serve it with the bone attached (not the fat cap, which should be completely removed and discarded) The outer parts of the bones will hold tons of oxidized fat and funky meat The aromas from this meat reach your nose as you’re eating, altering your entire experience Lovers of aged steak also prize the spinalis—the outer cap of meat on a rib-eye—for its richer, more highly aged flavor Aging Setup Q: What sort of setup do I need for aging steak at home? Is it relatively simple? It’s very simple and requires virtually no special equipment There are just a few things you’ll need: • Fridge space The best thing is to use a dedicated minifridge, so that the meat smells don’t permeate other food It can get a little powerful The mini-fridge I kept by my desk when testing aged meat would fill the office with the aroma of aging meat if I peeked inside it for even a ... It’s very simple and requires virtually no special equipment There are just a few things you’ll need: • Fridge space The best thing is to use a dedicated minifridge, so that the meat smells don’t permeate other food It can get a little powerful The. .. essential that you serve it with the bone attached (not the fat cap, which should be completely removed and discarded) The outer parts of the bones will hold tons of oxidized fat and funky meat The aromas from this meat reach your nose... on the outermost portions of the meat? ?the parts that largely get trimmed away—and for this reason, if you want to get the most out of your aged meat, it’s essential that you serve it with the bone attached (not the fat

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