with a stock made from scraps and small bony fish to provide gelatin and flavor, tomatoes and aromatics for flavor and color, and a large dollop of olive oil — perhaps a third of a cup/75 ml per quart/liter of liquid — which a fierce 10-minute boil emulsifies into fine droplets throughout the soup The dissolved fish gelatin and suspended proteins coat the oil droplets and slow their coalescence (p 628) The other pieces of fish are added last and simmered to cook through, and the soup is served immediately, before the oil has a chance to separate Steaming Steaming is a rapid way to cook fish and is especially appropriate for thin fillets, which can cook through quickly (thick pieces would overcook on the surface while their interior cooks through) Subtle aromas are contributed by herbs and spices, vegetables, and even seaweed, if they’re included in the steaming water or provide a bed on which the fish sits Even cooking requires that the fish pieces be the same thickness, and that the steam have equal access to all surfaces If fillets taper down to a very thin end, fold the thin layers over or interleave them with each other More than one layer’s worth of fish should be cooked in batches or divided among separate levels (as in stackable Chinese bamboo steamers) Relatively thick steaks or whole fish are best steamed below the boil, at an effective temperature of 180ºF/80ºC, to minimize overcooking of the surface This can be achieved by lowering the heat on the pot and/or leaving the pot lid ajar An even gentler effect is achieved by the Chinese method of steaming fish without a lid, in which steam and room air combine to give an effective cooking temperature of 150– 160ºF/65–70ºC Microwaving Microwave versions of ... fish are best steamed below the boil, at an effective temperature of 180ºF/80ºC, to minimize overcooking of the surface This can be achieved by lowering the heat on the pot and/ or leaving the pot lid ajar...bed on which the fish sits Even cooking requires that the fish pieces be the same thickness, and that the steam have equal access to all surfaces If fillets taper down to a very thin end, fold the thin layers... down to a very thin end, fold the thin layers over or interleave them with each other More than one layer’s worth of fish should be cooked in batches or divided among separate levels (as in stackable Chinese bamboo steamers)