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bottomed woks They won’t work, period, on an electric range and are tough to use on a gas range even with one of those wok rings On the other hand, woks with bottoms that are too flat defeat the purpose of the pan, making it tough to flip food properly and to move it in and out of the high-heat zone Your best bet is a wok with a 4- to 5-inch-wide flattened area at the bottom and gently sloping sides that flare out to between 12 and 14 inches This will give you plenty of high-heat space for searing meats and vegetables at the bottom, with ample volume and room to maneuver when flipping As for handles, you have two choices: Cantonesestyle woks have two small handles on either side, while northern-style woks have one long handle and usually a smaller helper-handle on the opposite side This is the type of wok you want The long handle facilitates flipping and stir-frying, while the short handle makes it easy to lift Finally, avoid nonstick woks like the plague Most nonstick coatings cannot handle the high heat necessary for a proper stir-fry They start vaporizing, releasing noxious fumes, long before they reach the requisite temperature They make browning difficult, and it’s impossible to get food to stick in place against the sides of the wok when you want to clear a surface to cook in the middle Care and Maintenance Just like a good cast-iron pan, a carbon steel wok’s performance will improve the more you use it Most come with a protective film of oil to prevent them from rusting or tarnishing in the store It’s important to remove this layer before using it the first time Scrub the wok out with hot soapy water, dry it carefully, and place it over a burner at the highest heat possible until it starts to smoke Carefully rotate the pan so that every area of it—including the edges —is exposed to this super-high heat Then rub it down with oil, using a paper towel held in a pair of tongs, and you’re ready to go After use, avoid scrubbing the wok unless absolutely necessary Usually a rinse and a rubdown with a soft sponge is all that’s necessary Purists may tell you not to use soap But I do, and my wok is still well seasoned and completely nonstick After rinsing it, dry the wok with a kitchen towel or paper towels and rub some vegetable oil into the surface to give it a vaporproof coating that will prevent it from rusting With repeated use, the oil you heat in your wok breaks down into polymers that fill the microscopic pores in the metal’s surface, rendering the material completely nonstick As you break in your wok, the material will gradually change from silver to brownish and, finally, to a deep black This is what you are looking for With proper care, your wok will not only last a lifetime but also actually improve with age BASIC WOK SKILLS Stir-frying is the quintessential wok technique; however, we’re not really gonna spend any time on that here, as there isn’t a single stir-fry recipe in this book (maybe you can write to my publisher and convince them you’d like to see a Food Lab: Chinese Classics some time in the future) But ...before using it the first time Scrub the wok out with hot soapy water, dry it carefully, and place it over a burner at the highest heat possible until it starts to smoke Carefully rotate the pan so... wok breaks down into polymers that fill the microscopic pores in the metal’s surface, rendering the material completely nonstick As you break in your wok, the material will gradually change from silver to brownish and, finally, to a deep black... it, dry the wok with a kitchen towel or paper towels and rub some vegetable oil into the surface to give it a vaporproof coating that will prevent it from rusting With repeated use, the oil you
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