On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 222

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On food and cooking  the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 222

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the equivalent of the omelette soufflée, often called soufflé la minute because it can be made quickly with no advance preparation A concentrated sugar syrup will make the bubble walls more viscous and stable, as will the various carbohydrates (cellulose, pectin, starch) in pureed fruits and vegetables, and the proteins in a puree of cooked meat, fish, or poultry If the pureed flesh is raw, then its proteins will coagulate during the cooking along with the egg whites and provide substantial reinforcement to the foam The starchy brown particles in cocoa and chocolate stiffen the bubble walls by both absorbing moisture and getting sticky and swollen as they do so The most versatile kind of soufflé base is thickened with cooked starch in the form of stock preparations like pastry cream or béchamel sauce, or a panade (like pastry cream, but without sugar and including butter) or bouillie (p 99) The standard consistency of a starchy base is that of a medium-thick sauce, and produces a moist, fairly light soufflé Double the flour and you get a drier, denser soufflé that is robust enough to be unmolded, placed in a dish with a hot sauce, and raised again in the oven or under the broiler (Escoffier’s soufflé à la suissesse) Triple the flour and you get a so-called “pudding soufflé” — with the bready texture you would expect from the name — that won’t fall no matter what you do to it (Increase the flour 15-fold and you have a sponge cake.) Whipping and Folding the Egg Whites The best consistency for egg whites in a soufflé preparation is stiff yet moist, glossy peaks A stiff but dry foam is harder to mix evenly with the base, while a softer foam is still coarse — so the soufflé texture will be the same — and may leave the mix so runny that it will overflow before it sets ... you would expect from the name — that won’t fall no matter what you do to it (Increase the flour 15-fold and you have a sponge cake.) Whipping and Folding the Egg Whites The best consistency for egg... unmolded, placed in a dish with a hot sauce, and raised again in the oven or under the broiler (Escoffier’s soufflé à la suissesse) Triple the flour and you get a so-called “pudding soufflé” — with the bready texture... preparation is stiff yet moist, glossy peaks A stiff but dry foam is harder to mix evenly with the base, while a softer foam is still coarse — so the soufflé texture will be the same — and may leave the

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