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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1117

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cooking.” In the hands of Carême and Escoffier, that nouvelle cuisine was augmented with a few new sauces and became classic French cooking, the standard throughout the western world for fine dining In time, the classic system became increasingly rigid and predictable, with most chefs essentially preparing the same standard dishes from the same precooked sauce bases The 20th century brought a new nouvelle cuisine, along with the New Novel and the New Wave in cinema In the 1960s a number of well established French chefs, including Paul Bocuse, Michel Guérard, the Troisgros family, and Alain Chapel, led the way in rethinking the French tradition They asserted the chef’s creative role and the virtues of simplicity, economy, and freshness Foods were no longer to be distilled into their essences, but were to be presented intact, as themselves In 1976, the journalists Henri Gault and Christian Millau published the Ten Commandments of nouvelle cuisine, of which the seventh was: “You shall eliminate brown and white sauces.” The new cooks still thought that, in the words of Michel Guérard, “the great sauces of France must be described as the cornerstones of cuisine,” but they used them more selectively and with restraint Lighter-flavored veal, chicken, and fish stocks served as poaching and braising liquids; reductions of these were used to give depth to last-minute pan sauces; and sauces in general were thickened less with flour and starch, more often with cream, butter, yogurt and fresh cheese, vegetable purees, and with bubbly foams Post-Nouvelle: Diverse and Innovative Sauces At the opening of the 21st century, the classic brown and white sauces have become scarce, so much so that perhaps we’re ready to appreciate their virtues again Those ...Christian Millau published the Ten Commandments of nouvelle cuisine, of which the seventh was: “You shall eliminate brown and white sauces.” The new cooks still thought that, in the words of Michel Guérard, ? ?the great sauces of France must be described... ? ?the great sauces of France must be described as the cornerstones of cuisine,” but they used them more selectively and with restraint Lighter-flavored veal, chicken, and fish stocks served as poaching and braising liquids;... served as poaching and braising liquids; reductions of these were used to give depth to last-minute pan sauces; and sauces in general were thickened less with flour and starch, more often with cream, butter, yogurt and fresh cheese, vegetable purees, and with

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