gives several French sauce recipes that require more meat than the meal they will accompany, and then remarks on “the Folly of these fine French Cooks” in running up such huge expenses for so little Glasse’s principal sauce is “gravy,” made by browning some meat, carrots, onions, several herbs and spices, shaking in some flour, adding water, and stewing In the 19th century, similarly homely anchovy, oyster, parsley, egg, caper, and butter sauces were popular And the Worcestershire sauces and chutneys and ketchups that Denti di Pirajno mocked? These condiments had become a part of English cooking in the 17th century thanks to the commercial activities of the East India Company, which brought back Asian soy and fish sauces — including Indonesian kecap (p 499) — and pickled fruits and vegetables, all preserved foods with intensified flavors Many of these preparations are rich in savory amino acids, and the English imitations were often made with similarly savory mushrooms and anchovies Our familiar tomato ketchup is a sweetened version of salty, vinegary, spicy tomato preserves So an English contemporary of Carême’s, William Kitchiner, includes a recipe for béchamel in his recipe book, but also presents “Wow Wow Sauce,” which contains parsley, pickled cucumbers or walnuts, butter, flour, broth, vinegar, catsup, and mustard These strongly flavored concoctions were quick and easy to use, and were evidently enjoyed for their strong contrast to the flavor of the foods they accompanied, not for subtle enhancement Modern Sauces: Nouvelle and Post-Nouvelle The 20th Century: Nouvelle Cuisine Back in the 18th century, Franỗois Marin and his colleagues described their bouillon-based cooking as nouvelle cuisine, or the new ... were evidently enjoyed for their strong contrast to the flavor of the foods they accompanied, not for subtle enhancement Modern Sauces: Nouvelle and Post-Nouvelle The 20th Century: Nouvelle Cuisine Back in the 18th century, Franỗois Marin and his... also presents “Wow Wow Sauce,” which contains parsley, pickled cucumbers or walnuts, butter, flour, broth, vinegar, catsup, and mustard These strongly flavored concoctions were quick and easy to use, and were evidently enjoyed for their strong...often made with similarly savory mushrooms and anchovies Our familiar tomato ketchup is a sweetened version of salty, vinegary, spicy tomato preserves So an English contemporary of Carême’s, William Kitchiner, includes a