On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 218

soufflée in restaurants The great 19th century chef Antonin Carême called the reinforced soufflé “the queen of hot pastries,” but also saw its success as the triumph of convenience and stability over the omelette soufflée’s incomparable delicacy of texture and flavor Carême wrote, “The omelette soufflée must be free of the concoction that goes into the soufflé, whether it be rice flour or starch The gourmet must have the patience to wait if he wishes to eat the omelette soufflée in all its perfection.” Convenience is certainly one reason for the soufflé’s popularity among cooks It can be largely prepared in advance, even precooked and reheated Versatility is another Soufflés can be made from practically every sort of food — pureed fruits and vegetables and fish; cheese, chocolate, liqueurs — and in a broad range of textures, from the puddinglike to the meltingly fragile soufflé à la minute, which is Carême’s starch-free omelette soufflée barely altered Early Recipes for the Omelette Soufflée and Soufflé This 18th century recipe for the omelette soufflée is an interesting mix of savory and sweet ingredients, while the timbales are soufflés reinforced with pastry cream Omelette Soufflée with Veal Kidney Take a roasted veal kidney, chop with its fat; put in a casserole and cook for a moment to break apart Then off the fire add a large spoonful of sweet cream and a dozen egg yolks, whose whites you will whip; season the mixture with salt, minced parsley, minced candied lemon peel Whip your egg whites into snow, mix with the rest, and beat well Then put a piece of butter in a pan, and when it has melted pour in your mixture, and cook gently Hold a red-hot fire iron above it Then ... fat; put in a casserole and cook for a moment to break apart Then off the fire add a large spoonful of sweet cream and a dozen egg yolks, whose whites you will whip; season the mixture with salt, minced... parsley, minced candied lemon peel Whip your egg whites into snow, mix with the rest, and beat well Then put a piece of butter in a pan, and when it has melted pour in your mixture, and cook gently...altered Early Recipes for the Omelette Soufflée and Soufflé This 18th century recipe for the omelette soufflée is an interesting mix of savory and sweet ingredients, while the timbales are soufflés reinforced with pastry cream