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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1063

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Pastry structures (uncooked doughs shown at bottom; cooked pastries at top) The key to pastry structure is the distribution of the fat, here shown as a light layer surrounding darker masses of dough Left: In crumbly pastries, fat coats and separates small particles of dough Center: In flaky pastries, fat coats and separates flattened pieces of dough Right: In laminated pastries, fat coats and separates extended, thin sheets of dough The sheets in laminated pastries are so light that cooking steams them apart into a light, airy structure Fats Much of the flavor of pastry — and much of the pleasure — comes from its fat, which may be a third or more of its weight But pastry makers often choose a fat that has little or no flavor This is because the fat must have the necessary consistency for producing the desired texture Broadly speaking, any fat or oil can be worked finely into flour to make crumbly pastry, while flaky and laminated pastries require fats that are solid but malleable at cool room temperature: namely butter, lard, or vegetable shortening Of these, shortenings are the easiest to work with, and produce the best textures Fat Consistency: Butter and Lard Are Demanding At any given temperature, solid fats have different consistencies that depend on what fraction of their molecules is in solid crystals, and what fraction is liquid Above about 25% solids, fat is too hard and brittle to roll into an even layer Below about 15% solids, fat is too soft to work; it sticks to the dough, doesn’t hold its shape, and leaks liquid oil The ideal fat for flaky and laminated pastries is therefore one that has between 15 ... butter, lard, or vegetable shortening Of these, shortenings are the easiest to work with, and produce the best textures Fat Consistency: Butter and Lard Are Demanding At any given temperature, solid fats have different consistencies... different consistencies that depend on what fraction of their molecules is in solid crystals, and what fraction is liquid Above about 25% solids, fat is too hard and brittle to roll into an even... 15% solids, fat is too soft to work; it sticks to the dough, doesn’t hold its shape, and leaks liquid oil The ideal fat for flaky and laminated pastries is therefore one that has between 15

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