several Italian courts The sauces that have come to be known as distinctively Italian are mainly domestic and relatively unrefined in character, based not so much on essences as on whole materials: the purees of tomato fruits and basil leaves, for example The basic Italian meat sauce, or sugo, is made in the manner of Marin’s 18th-century consommé: meat is slowly cooked to liberate its juices, which are allowed to cook down and brown on the pan bottom; then meat broth is used to redissolve the browned residues, and allowed to concentrate and itself brown: and the process repeated to produce a concentrated flavor The meat is not discarded, but becomes part of the sauce Not only Italy but much of the Mediterranean region, including southern France, has been less interested in extracting meat essences than in highlighting and combining flavors The Classic French Sauce Families Carême’s original classification of the sauces has undergone various modifications, as have the ingredients in many of the derived sauces Here is one modern version of the family tree that shows a number of the more familiar derived sauces Stocks and roux are brown if the meat, vegetables, or flour are browned at relatively high heat before liquid is added; otherwise they are yellow or white, and lighter in flavor as well Basic Sauce: Brown, or Espagnole, made with brown stock (beef, veal), brown roux, tomatoes Bordelaise (“from Red wine, Bordeaux”) shallots Diable White wine, shallots, (“devil”) cayenne Lyonnaise (“from Lyon”) White wine, onion Madeira Madeira wine ... classification of the sauces has undergone various modifications, as have the ingredients in many of the derived sauces Here is one modern version of the family tree that shows a number of the more... with brown stock (beef, veal), brown roux, tomatoes Bordelaise (? ??from Red wine, Bordeaux”) shallots Diable White wine, shallots, (? ??devil”) cayenne Lyonnaise (? ??from Lyon”) White wine, onion Madeira... derived sauces Stocks and roux are brown if the meat, vegetables, or flour are browned at relatively high heat before liquid is added; otherwise they are yellow or white, and lighter in flavor as well