On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1205

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On food and cooking  the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1205

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fats and oils other than butter, and to flavor the water phase with meat reductions or vegetable purees Alternative Oil Emulsions These days we think of mayonnaise exclusively as an egg-emulsified sauce, but this hasn’t always been the case, and there are a number of other ways to form and stabilize a flavorful oil emulsion In 1828, perhaps a few decades after the supposed invention of mayonnaise, the great chef and sauce-systematizer Antonin Carême gave three recipes for magnonnaise blanche, only one of which includes egg yolks The others are made with a ladleful of starchy velouté or béchamel sauce, and with a gelatinous reduced extract of veal meat and bones In these versions, gelatin and milk proteins (in the béchamel) are emulsifiers, and starch is a stabilizer Some versions of the herb-flavored Italian salsa verde, “green sauce,” emulsify olive oil with a hard-boiled yolk and bread The Provenỗal aùoli and Greek skorthaliỏ are emulsified with a combination of pounded garlic and cooked potato; garlic and bread are also used, as are fresh cheeses None of these ingredients is as effective at emulsifying and stabilizing as a raw egg yolk, so they will emulsify less oil and the sauces will tend to leak some free oil Holding and Salvaging Hot Egg Sauces Butter sauces need to be kept warm to prevent the butter from solidifying, and are best held at around 145ºF/63ºC to discourage the growth of bacteria Because the egg proteins slowly continue to bond to each other at this temperature, the cook should stir the sauce occasionally to keep it from thickening The container should be covered to prevent the sauce’s moisture from evaporating and overcrowding the fat droplets, and to prevent the formation of a protein skin on the surface ... oil with a hard-boiled yolk and bread The Provenỗal aùoli and Greek skorthaliá are emulsified with a combination of pounded garlic and cooked potato; garlic and bread are also used, as are fresh cheeses None of these... Butter sauces need to be kept warm to prevent the butter from solidifying, and are best held at around 145ºF/63ºC to discourage the growth of bacteria Because the egg proteins slowly continue to bond to each other at this temperature, the cook should stir the sauce... temperature, the cook should stir the sauce occasionally to keep it from thickening The container should be covered to prevent the sauce’s moisture from evaporating and overcrowding the fat droplets, and to prevent the formation of a protein skin on the surface

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