On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1203

of a burner Heating the yolks with the acidic reduction also minimizes curdling; if the pH is around 4.5, the equivalent of yogurt’s acidity, the yolks can be safely heated to 195ºF/90ºC (The acid causes the proteins to repel each other, so that they unfold before bonding to each other and form an extended network rather than dense curds.) Cooks concerned about salmonella should make sure the yolks are cooked at least to 160ºF/70ºC, or else should use pasteurized eggs Olive Oil Can Make Crazy Mayonnaise Mayonnaise can be made with any kind of oil One popular choice, unrefined extra virgin olive oil, often produces an unstable mayonnaise, one that forms properly, but then separates just an hour or two later Ironically, the likely troublemakers are molecules with emulsifying abilities: oil molecules that have been broken into fragments that have a fat-like tail and water-soluble head, just like lecithin (p 802) They are concentrated in the oil, and when the cook breaks the oil into droplets, they move to the droplet surface, where they end up pushing the bulkier, more effective egg emulsifiers off the droplet surfaces Because the droplets are crowded tightly together, this causes the droplets to coalesce and form puddles of oil This delayed disintegration of olive-oil mayonnaise is well known in Italy, where the sauce is said to “go crazy” (impazzire) Old and improperly stored oils are most likely to have suffered damage to their oil molecules and therefore to cause problems in mayonnaise Two ways to avoid crazy mayonnaise are to use refined olive oil, and to use extra-virgin oil as a flavoring, with the bulk of the oil being any flavorless refined oil Making Hollandaise and Béarnaise There are at least five different ways of making ... head, just like lecithin (p 802) They are concentrated in the oil, and when the cook breaks the oil into droplets, they move to the droplet surface, where they end up pushing the bulkier, more effective... emulsifiers off the droplet surfaces Because the droplets are crowded tightly together, this causes the droplets to coalesce and form puddles of oil This delayed disintegration of olive-oil mayonnaise... crazy mayonnaise are to use refined olive oil, and to use extra-virgin oil as a flavoring, with the bulk of the oil being any flavorless refined oil Making Hollandaise and Béarnaise There are at least five different ways of making