On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1202

this base (left) As more oil is incorporated, the mixture becomes thicker and the oil is broken into smaller droplets (center) When the sauce is done, as much as 80% of its volume is occupied by oil droplets, and its consistency is semisolid (right) Hot Egg Sauces: Hollandaise and Béarnaise The classic hot egg sauces, hollandaise and béarnaise and their offspring, are eggemulsified butter sauces They are similar to mayonnaise in many respects, but of course must be hot to keep the butter fluid Their dispersed fat phase is usually a smaller proportion of the sauce, between one-and twothirds of the total volume Hollandaise and béarnaise differ mainly in seasoning; hollandaise is only lightly flavored with lemon juice, while béarnaise begins with a tart and aromatic reduction of wine, vinegar, tarragon, and shallots Heat Thickens — and Curdles The consistency of the hot egg sauces depends on two factors One is the form and amount in which the butter is incorporated Whole butter is about 15% water, so each addition thins the egg phase and the sauce as a whole; clarified butter is all butterfat, and thickens the sauce with every addition The second influence on consistency is the degree to which the egg yolks are heated and thickened The main trick in making these sauces is to heat the egg yolks enough to obtain the desired thickness, but not so much that the yolk proteins coagulate into little solid curds and the sauce separates This happens at around 160– 170ºF/70–77ºC A double boiler or a saucepan resting above a larger pan of simmering water will guarantee a gentle and even heat but will also slow the cooking; for this reason, some cooks prefer the riskier but rapid direct heat ... is about 15% water, so each addition thins the egg phase and the sauce as a whole; clarified butter is all butterfat, and thickens the sauce with every addition The second influence on consistency is the degree to which the. ..tarragon, and shallots Heat Thickens — and Curdles The consistency of the hot egg sauces depends on two factors One is the form and amount in which the butter is incorporated... and thickened The main trick in making these sauces is to heat the egg yolks enough to obtain the desired thickness, but not so much that the yolk proteins coagulate into little solid curds and the sauce