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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1299

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content than hard candies, a large proportion of corn syrup, and the presence of milk casein proteins The characteristic caramel flavor develops from the milk ingredients and reactions between these and the syrup sugars during the cooking In Britain, butter for toffee was often stored to develop some rancidity (from free butyric acid), which produced a desirably stronger dairy flavor in the finished candy (American chocolate manufacturers have done much the same thing; see box, p 703) The higher the fat content, the less these candies stick to the teeth Caramels are cooked to the lowest temperature of the noncrystalline candies, have the highest moisture content, and are the softest Toffees and taffies contain less butter and milk solids — taffies sometimes none at all — and are cooked 50ºF hotter than caramels, so they’re more firm Taffies are often pulled to produce an aerated, finely crystalline, less dense, less chewy version Caramels made with dairy products owe some of their flavor to caramelized sugar, but they include flavors from the Maillard reactions Like the terminology, caramelized sugar and dairy flavors blend easily with each other This may be in part because one of the important products of sugar caramelization is diacetyl, an aromatic chemical that provides the pronounced buttery aroma of cultured butter(p 35) Caramel has a rich, complex flavor and consistency, viscous and sticky and creamy all at once, that works well with most sweets and fruits, with coffee and chocolate, and even with salt: the prized caramels of Brittany are made with a notable dose of sea salt Sugar Work The most spectacular sugar preparations are those that take advantage of sugar’s similarity to glass: its transparency and capacity to be sculpted, blown, and drawn ... Caramel has a rich, complex flavor and consistency, viscous and sticky and creamy all at once, that works well with most sweets and fruits, with coffee and chocolate, and even with salt: the prized caramels of Brittany are made with a notable dose of sea... dairy flavors blend easily with each other This may be in part because one of the important products of sugar caramelization is diacetyl, an aromatic chemical that provides the pronounced buttery aroma of cultured butter(p 35)...crystalline, less dense, less chewy version Caramels made with dairy products owe some of their flavor to caramelized sugar, but they include flavors from the Maillard reactions Like the terminology, caramelized sugar and dairy flavors blend easily with each other

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