Copyright © 2014 by Cathal Armstrong Photographs copyright © 2014 by Scott Suchman Front cover photograph copyright © 2014 by Sang An All rights reserved Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House LLC, New York, a Penguin Random House Company www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House LLC Food and prop styling for LC01, LC02, LC03, LC04, LC05, LC06, LC07, LC08, LC09, LC10, LC11, LC12, LC13, LC14, LC15, LC16, LC17, LC18, LC19, LC20, LC21, LC22, LC23, LC24, LC25, LC26, LC27, LC28, and LC29 by Lisa Cherkasky Food styling for front cover photograph by George Dolese Prop styling for front cover photograph by Glenn Jenkins Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Armstrong, Cathal My Irish table : recipes from the homeland and Restaurant Eve / Cathal Armstrong, David Hagedorn — First edition pages cm Includes index Cooking, Irish Cooking, American I Hagedorn, David, 1959- II Restaurant Eve III Title TX717.5.A762 2014 641.59417–dc23 2013039099 Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-430-6 eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-431-3 v3.1_r1 CONTENTS Acknowledgments Introduction CHAPTER ONE: First Things First: Irish Breakfast Like at Home CHAPTER TWO: Rugby Matches, Croke Park, and Hurling Practice CHAPTER THREE: What Mam Cooked CHAPTER FOUR: Fridays Are for Fish CHAPTER FIVE: Special Occasions NANA’S SUNDAY DINNERS SAINT PATRICK’S DAY EASTER MY BIRTHDAY DINNER HALLOWEEN CHRISTMAS EVE AND CHRISTMAS DAY CHAPTER SIX: From Restaurant Eve CHAPTER SEVEN: From Da’s Garden CHAPTER EIGHT: Peggy’s Bread CHAPTER NINE: All Things Sweet CHAPTER TEN: Brine, Stocks, Sauces, and Relishes Glossary Resources About the Authors Index Conversion Charts To Mam, Da, and Meshelle, who put me on the right road years ago and keep me there now ACKNOWLEDGMENTS My sincerest gratitude to my children, Eve and Eamonn, for allowing Meshelle and me to use their names on our restaurants and for putting up with their parents’ crazy schedules; to my mother-in-law, Carmen Salang, who took care of the kids whenever we needed her to while we worked on this book; to Alice Hanson for all the prep and time she put in; to Jeremy Hoffman and Ryan Wheeler for keeping me organized; to David Hagedorn for driving me to the edge of insanity; to Master Jason Yoo for keeping me fit and stress-free throughout this process; to our business partners Todd Thrasher and Maria Chicas; to my brothers and sisters, who lent us their stories; to Joy Tutela, our agent; and to Scott Suchman for the terrific photographs FROM CATHAL: Very special thanks to my husband, Michael Widomski, who never complained about eating Roast Leg of Pork and Dublin Coddle three days in a row (but drew the line at Steak and Kidney Pie); to Meshelle and Cathal Armstrong for bringing up this crazy idea in the first place; to Sally Swift, a supportive pal with great advice; to Carol Spier, the dearest friend I still haven’t met in person and fellow hater of the serial comma; and to my sister, Claire, and my posse, Nycci Nellis, Amber Pfau, and Amanda McClements, who let me prattle on endlessly about this project FROM DAVID: E Easter Eggs Bakewell Tart Chilled Asparagus with Parmesan–Black Pepper Vinaigrette and Poached Egg Custard Sauce Egg and Onion Salad Irish Breakfast Quiche Lorraine Spanish Omelet with Alioli Emulsions F Fava Bean, Mussel, and Bacon Ragoût, Pan-Roasted Loin of Monkfish with Fish Baked Whole Salmon with Hollandaise Sauce Fish and Chips with Tartar Sauce Fish and Seafood Pie Fish Stock Gravlax with Dill Sauce and Brown Bread Pan-Fried Plaice with Lemon Caper Brown Butter Pan-Roasted Loin of Monkfish with Fava Bean, Mussel, and Bacon Ragoût Pan-Roasted Rockfish with Mushroom Reduction and Mock Risotto pan-roasting Sardines Braised in Spicy Tomato Sauce Smoked Haddock and Shellfish Soup testing, for doneness Foie Gras with Black Pudding and Pears Four-spice blend Frisée, Cashel Blue and Toasted Pecan Terrine with Apple Jam and Fruits Auntie Ann’s Pavlova Auntie Joan’s Barmbrack Christmas Cake Christmas Pudding Citrus Vinaigrette Fruit and Nut “Bread” Mincemeat Mince Pies See also individual fruits G Grapefruit Citrus Vinaigrette Mixed Candied Citrus Peel Gravlax with Dill Sauce and Brown Bread Great Potato Famine, itr.1, 7.1 Grubb, Jane and Louis H Haddock Fish and Seafood Pie Smoked Haddock and Shellfish Soup Halloween, 5.1, 9.1 Ham, Baked Cured Harissa Harissa Mayonnaise Homemade Harissa Hazelnuts Fruit and Nut “Bread” skinning Herbs chopping Herb Pesto Hollandaise Sauce Horseradish Horseradish and Green Onion Mayonnaise Horseradish Cream I Icings Almond Icing Royal Icing Irish BLT Irish Breakfast Irish Caesar Salad Irish Coffee Irish Soda Bread Irish Stew with Piccalilli Ivorra, Ramiro J Jams Apple Jam Raspberry Jam K Kale Colcannon Kidneys buying cleaning Kidneys in Red Wine Sauce Steak and Kidney Pie L Lamb Braised Lamb Shoulder Sandwiches with Harissa Mayonnaise Irish Stew with Piccalilli kidneys Kidneys in Red Wine Sauce Lamb Daube Lamb Demi-Glace Lamb Stock Pan-Roasted Rack of Lamb with Rosemary Jus Roast Leg of Lamb au Jus with Herb Pesto Shepherd’s Pie Steak and Kidney Pie Langoustines prawns vs Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana See also Prawns; Shrimp Leeks Chicken Noodle Soup cleaning Creamed Leeks Fish and Seafood Pie Pork Belly with Braised Cabbage and Poached Apples Potato and Leek Soup Smoked Haddock and Shellfish Soup Lemons Christmas Cake Citrus Vinaigrette Lemon Cake Mixed Candied Citrus Peel Lettuce Irish BLT Irish Caesar Salad Lewis, Ross Limes Citrus Vinaigrette Mixed Candied Citrus Peel Liver Pâté, Chicken Lobster Kerrygold Butter–Poached Lobster with Parsnips Lobster Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette Lobster Stock Lyonnaise Potatoes M Mam’s Apple Pie, 9.1, 9.2 Mam’s Quick Puff Pastry Dough Marie Rose Sauce Marmalades Orange Marmalade Tomato Marmalade “Marrowfat” Peas Mayonnaise Basic Mayonnaise Harissa Mayonnaise Horseradish and Green Onion Mayonnaise Marie Rose Sauce Tartar Sauce McIlhenny, John Meat pan-roasting sauces for testing, for doneness See also individual meats Meshelle’s Tomato Thing Mincemeat Mince Pies Mixed Candied Citrus Peel Mixed Spice Monkfish, Pan-Roasted Loin of, with Fava Bean, Mussel, and Bacon Ragoût Mushrooms Mushroom Stock Pan-Roasted Loin of Monkfish with Fava Bean, Mussel, and Bacon Ragoût Pan-Roasted Rockfish with Mushroom Reduction and Mock Risotto Mussels Pan-Roasted Loin of Monkfish with Fava Bean, Mussel, and Bacon Ragoût prepping Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana Smoked Haddock and Shellfish Soup Steamed Mussels with Lemon and Bay Leaf N Noodle Soup, Chicken O Oats Apple Crumble Black Pudding Obama, Barack, itr.1, 3.1 O’Connell, Patrick Onions Black Pudding and Onions Caramelized Onions Egg and Onion Salad Piccalilli Oranges Christmas Pudding Citrus Vinaigrette Mixed Candied Citrus Peel Orange Marmalade Oysters Fried Oysters with Horseradish and Green Onion Mayonnaise Oysters with Coriander Mignonette shucking P Paella Valenciana, Ramiro’s Pancakes, Potato Pan-roasting Parmesan–Black Pepper Vinaigrette Parsley Sauce Parsnips Kerrygold Butter–Poached Lobster with Parsnips Roasted Root Vegetable Purée Pâté, Chicken Liver Pavlova, Auntie Ann’s Pears, Foie Gras with Black Pudding and Peas, “Marrowfat” Pecans Cashel Blue and Toasted Pecan Terrine with Frisée and Apple Jam Fruit and Nut “Bread” Pesto, Herb Piccalilli Pies Fish and Seafood Pie Mam’s Apple Pie, 9.1, 9.2 Mince Pies Shepherd’s Pie Steak and Kidney Pie Pineapple Upside-Down Cake Plaice, Pan-Fried, with Lemon Caper Brown Butter Pollock Fish and Chips with Tartar Sauce Pork Baked Cured Ham Curing Brine for Pork Pork Belly with Braised Cabbage and Poached Apples Roast Leg of Pork with Cracklings, Pan Juices, and Applesauce See also Bacon; Sausage Potatoes Boiled New Potatoes Boiled Russet Potatoes Broiled Potatoes with Aioli chips, making Colcannon Dublin Coddle Fish and Chips with Tartar Sauce Fish and Seafood Pie history of, in Ireland Irish Breakfast Irish Stew with Piccalilli Lyonnaise Potatoes Mashed Potatoes, 7.1, 7.2 Pan-Roasted Rockfish with Mushroom Reduction and Mock Risotto Potato and Leek Soup Potato Gratin Potato Pancakes Potato Rolls Roasted Potatoes Shepherd’s Pie Smoked Haddock and Shellfish Soup Spanish Omelet with Alioli Prawns Dublin Bay Prawn Cocktail with Marie Rose Sauce Salt-Baked Dublin Bay Prawns with Aioli shrimp vs See also Langoustines; Shrimp President Obama Stew (Chicken Casserole) Pub food Puddings Black Pudding Black Pudding and Onions Christmas Pudding Foie Gras with Black Pudding and Pears White Pudding Yorkshire Pudding Puff Pastry Dough, Mam’s Quick Pullman Loaf Q Quatre épices Quiche Lorraine R Rabbit Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana Radishes Piccalilli Raisins Auntie Joan’s Barmbrack Christmas Cake Christmas Pudding Fruit and Nut “Bread” Mincemeat Raleigh, Sir Walter Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana Raspberry Jam Restaurant Eve’s Pork Loin Bacon Rice Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana Rockfish Fish and Seafood Pie Pan-Roasted Rockfish with Mushroom Reduction and Mock Risotto Rolls, Potato Rosemary Royal Icing S Saint Patrick’s Day, 5.1, 5.2 Salads Crab and Artichoke Salad with Harissa Mayonnaise Egg and Onion Salad Irish Caesar Salad Lobster Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette Salmon Baked Whole Salmon with Hollandaise Sauce folklore story about Gravlax with Dill Sauce and Brown Bread Salt Sandwiches Braised Lamb Shoulder Sandwiches with Harissa Mayonnaise Irish BLT Spiced Beef Sandwiches Sardines Braised in Spicy Tomato Sauce Sauces Aioli Alioli Custard Sauce Dill Sauce Herb Pesto Hollandaise Sauce Homemade Harissa Horseradish Cream making, for meat Marie Rose Sauce Parsley Sauce Tartar Sauce Sausage Black Pudding Black Pudding and Onions Breakfast Sausage Dublin Coddle Foie Gras with Black Pudding and Pears Irish Breakfast making White Pudding Scones Shepherd’s Pie Sheridan, Monica and Neil Shrimp Fish and Seafood Pie prawns vs Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana See also Langoustines; Prawns Soups Chicken Noodle Soup Potato and Leek Soup Smoked Haddock and Shellfish Soup Spanish Omelet with Alioli Spice blends Dublin Spice Mixed Spice Spinach, Creamed Squid Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana Steak and Kidney Pie Stews Beef Stew Irish Stew with Piccalilli making in advance President Obama Stew (Chicken Casserole) Shepherd’s Pie Stocks Chicken Stock Fish Stock Lamb Stock Lobster Stock making Mushroom Stock straining Veal Stock Straining T Tabasco sauce Tart, Bakewell Tartar Sauce Thyme Tomatoes Breakfast Tomatoes Three Ways Broiled Tomatoes Cheese on Toast Irish BLT Irish Breakfast Meshelle’s Tomato Thing President Obama Stew (Chicken Casserole) Ramiro’s Paella Valenciana Sardines Braised in Spicy Tomato Sauce Tomatoes in a Pan Tomato Marmalade Turkey, Roast, with Stuffing and Gravy V Veal Veal Demi-Glace Veal Stock Vegetables blanching cooking Piccalilli Roasted Root Vegetable Purée See also individual vegetables Venison, Pan-Roasted Loin of, au Jus with Carrot Purée, Glazed Baby Carrots, and Brown Bread Cream Vinaigrettes Citrus Vinaigrette Parmesan–Black Pepper Vinaigrette W Walnuts Fruit and Nut “Bread” Whiskey Irish Coffee White Pudding Wondra flour Y York Cabbage, Braised Yorkshire Pudding CONVERSION CHARTS Volume U.S.: tablespoon Imperial: ½ fl oz Metric: 15 ml U.S.: tablespoons Imperial: fl oz Metric: 30 ml U.S.: ¼ cup Imperial: fl oz Metric: 60 ml U.S.: ⅓ cup Imperial: fl oz Metric: 90 ml U.S.: ½ cup Imperial: fl oz Metric: 120 ml U.S.: ⅔ cup Imperial: fl oz (ẳ pint) Metric: 150 ml U.S.: ắ cup Imperial: fl oz Metric: 180 ml U.S.: cup Imperial: fl oz (⅓ pint) Metric: 240 ml U.S.: 1ẳ cups Imperial: 10 fl oz (ẵ pint) Metric: 300 ml U.S.: cups (1 pint) Imperial: 16 fl oz (⅔ pint) Metric: 480 ml U.S.: 2½ cups Imperial: 20 fl oz (1 pint) Metric: 600 ml U.S.: quart Imperial: 32 fl oz (1⅓ pints) Metric: liter Temperature Fahrenheit: 250°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 120°C / gas mark ½ Fahrenheit: 275°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 135°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 300°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 150°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 325°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 160°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 350°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 180°C or 175°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 375°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 190°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 400°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 200°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 425°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 220°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 450°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 230°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 475°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 245°C / gas mark Fahrenheit: 500°F Celsius / Gas Mark: 260°C Length Inch: ẳ inch Metric: mm Inch: ẵ inch Metric: 1.25 cm Inch: ¾ inch Metric: cm Inch: inch Metric: 2.5 cm Inch: inches (½ foot) Metric: 15 cm Inch: 12 inches (1 foot) Metric: 30 cm Weight U.S / Imperial: ½ oz Metric: 15 g U.S / Imperial: oz Metric: 30 g U.S / Imperial: oz Metric: 60 g U.S / Imperial: ¼ lb Metric: 115 g U.S / Imperial: ⅓ lb Metric: 150 g U.S / Imperial: ½ lb Metric: 225 g U.S / Imperial: ¾ lb Metric: 350 g U.S / Imperial: lb Metric: 450 g ... massage the pieces to separate them and allow the sand to sink to the bottom of the bowl With your hands, scoop the leeks off the surface and into a colander Smoked Haddock and Shellfish Soup Pretty... digital thermometer takes the guesswork out of this process Cool and wrap: Remove the pan from the heat and let the sausages rest in their cooking water for hour When they are cool enough to handle,... the vegetables: Melt the butter in a heavy casserole over medium heat Stir in the leeks and potatoes and let them sweat until tender, about 15 minutes Cook the soup: Add the stock and cream and