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[...]... neighbourhood restaurant.8 The counter-culture was crucial to the development of the movement in the US, and has remained a theme in the development of Slow Food, reflected in the idea of SlowFood Nation’ – the name of US SlowFood s biggest event to date, in San Francisco in late August 2008 Alice Waters herself is convinced of the continued relevance of the counter-culture in the contemporary era of... the political leanings of a small group from Bra, its scope was global and would present a political challenge not only to the way food was produced and consumed but the values of the society underpinning it The 1960s and 1970s were the pivotal decades which shaped the politics of theSlowFood movement in Italy They were also influential in shaping the direction of SlowFood USA, which has become the. .. drive her politics ‘I want to green the United Nations I want gardens on the White House lawn I want a peace garden in the Gaza Strip.’9 Thefood writer Michael Pollan also believes the 1960s were formative in the development of theSlowFood movement in the US He points to several continuities, including the ‘back to the land movement’, the hippy communes, Woodstock and the Diggers, which all had strong... in Arci and Il Manifesto to the neglected wines of Piedmont The osteria movement in Bra included the setting up of the Osteria Boccondivino, opened in 1984 in Via Mendicita Istruita 12, an address it was later to share with theSlowFood office, with Carlo Petrini amongst the waiters for the inaugural dinner The year 1986 was a key moment in the development of SlowFoodThe formation of Arci Gola (‘gola’... demonstration, the term SlowFood was first used and a manifesto was produced which would take the ideas of the association beyond Italy The poet and writer Folco Portinari was given the task of writing theSlowFood Manifesto In preparing the new movement’s philosophy Portinari has acknowledged a variety of influences, from the speed-inspired manifesto of Marinetti’s Futurists in 1909 to the ‘Fellows... his childhood the exciting atmosphere, and casual drug use, of the Russian pianist and other musicians who stayed overnight at his house They were carefree idealists These were the early signs of the politics of pleasure which was to shape the origin and development of SlowFood Petrini and his comrades from Bra, who called themselves the ‘philoridiculous’ group, were also members of Arci, the cultural... counter-culture, and Pollan himself is based in California, the centre of the sixties’ movements, which remains the heartbeat of SlowFood USA, with a strong intellectual milieu, a sophisticated food culture and some of Andrews 01 chap01 15 29/7/08 16:35:35 16 T H E S LO W FO O D S T O RY the most active SlowFood convivia (the name of SlowFood s local branches).10 There are crucial similarities too between Waters... From the outset then, pleasure was central to Waters’ idea of changing food culture in the US This was reflected not only in thefood but also in the culture which surrounded the employees of Chez Panisse, with Led Zeppelin and David Bowie playing in the restaurant’s kitchen, and marijuana, cocaine and drink not uncommon amongst the waiters Though the menus gradually got more sophisticated, notably in the. .. become disillusioned with the strategy of Italy’s main communist party (PCI), the largest in Western Europe, at the time locked into a ‘historic compromise’ with the Christian Democrats In 1975 they even managed to get one of their number, Carlo Petrini, elected to the Bra town council, which helped raise their profile further Petrini was the only member of the council opposed to the historic compromise,... FO O D S T O RY It was the publication of theSlowFood Manifesto which exported SlowFood s idea beyond Italy and set in motion the beginnings of a remarkable ‘movement’, as people started to refer to it; the English wording undoubtedly helped to ‘globalise’ and publicise its appeal to all those who had concerns about the spiralling of fast food Following the publication of the Manifesto in several . Producer and the Death of the
Consumer? 86
6 The Movement 103
PART THREE: PLACES
7 Rediscovering the Local 129
8 Virtuous Globalisation 148
9 Slow Food, Gastronomy. rst encountered the Slow Food movement in July 2001. In
Genoa for the G8 summit, on one of the fi rst peaceful demon-
strations before the violence which