well as letters from Argentinian generals. Period furnishings, from original porcelain bath fixtures to the courtyard’s Spanish tiles, are in excellent repair. d Map F1 • Calle San Martín 336 • 4394-8240 • Open noon–6pm Mon–Fri; closed Jan–Feb • Adm
( Plaza de Mayo
The Plaza’s symmetry belies the many upheavals that shaped its current dimensions. To make room for Avenida de Mayo, three arches were shorn off its arcade in 1889. In 1931, avenue Julio A.
Rocha was completed, requiring the demolition of three more arches, leaving us with the view we have today (see pp8-9).
) Plaza Embajada de Israel Twenty-nine trees planted for each of the murdered bear witness to the 1992 terrorist attack on Israel’s Argentinian embassy (see p33). The site is now a plaza, where the victims’
names are etched into a wall.
The embassy’s former outline is still imprinted in the adjacent building, providing a sense of the tragedy’s physical scale.d Map Q4
• Cnr. Calles Suipacha and Arroyo
• Open daily • Adm free
Grab a water bottle at a Puerto Madero kiosk, hail a radio taxi bound for the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur’s northern entrance, and keep eyes sharp inside the park for coastal birdlife. Rest for a while at a shaded picnic spot and take in the river and the city’s skyline view.
Afterward, trace your steps back to Avenida Córdoba and follow it up to Calle San Martín for well-deserved, creative pizzas at FILO (see p85).
From there, head towards Retiro to indulge in retail therapy amid the artisan shops (see pp38–9), before resting under the trees at the verdant Plaza San Martín (see p81).
Basilica Nuestra Seủora de la Merced
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Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro
Stores
Left Plata Nativa Right Millai Sumaj
! Plata Nativa
South American folk art and jewelry are showcased in this evocative space.d Map Q5
• Galería del Sol, Calle Florida 860
• 4312-1398
@ Blaqué This swish store stocks glam leather jackets, handbags, and shoes worthy of a Fendi store.
d Map Q5 • Galerías Pacífico, Calle Florida 725 • 5555-5215
£ Antigüedades Antigüa Vintage Argentinian toys, books, and housewares are available here.d Map Q6 • Calle Suipacha 228 • 5029-0133
$ Polo Club Well-crafted cotton casual wear and quality leather accesso- ries lend a country-club aesthetic to this small space.d Map R6
• Calle Juana Manuela Gorriti 740, Dique 4 • 5238-0137
% Adolfo Martínez Armas Antiguas This longtime Galerías Larreta tenant sells national and inter- national military
memorabilia.d Map Q5 • Calle Florida 971
• 4311-7305
^ Millai Sumaj Smart, contem- porary women’s fashions are hand- crafted from Patagonian and llama
wool at Millai Sumaj. Raw materials are purchased from indigenous people within Argentina. d Map Q5 • Galerías Larreta, Calle Florida 971
& Artistas Jóvenes Argentinos
This is possibly the best place to purchase the work of some of Argentina’s most progressive young painters. d Map Q5 • Galerías Larreta, Calle Florida 971
* Autoria Housewares, limited-run silkscreened T-shirts, art books, and mixed-media pieces, all by local artists, give Autoria a touch of MALBA (see pp22–3).
d Map Q5 • Calle Suipacha 1025
( Se Dice de Mí
1960s-cinema inspired tees, handbags fashioned from recy- cled materials, and lingerie fill this spacious shop.d Map Q5
• Calle Maipú 944 • 4311-1005
) Tango Brujo
Numerous couples have been set twirling in the Nouveau
Tango style by Tango Brujo. Its handsome ground-level shop stocks delicate tango fashions, an excellent music selection, and top-quality footwear, with expert fittings.
d Map Q5 • Calle Esmeralda 754
• 4325-8264
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Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro
85
Price Categories For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes, and extra charges.
$ under US$10
$$ US$11–15
$$$ US$16–25
$$$$ US$26–35 $$$$$ over US$35
Bars and Restaurants
Florida Garden
! La Cigale Dark electronica and bossa nova sounds waft through this moody bar, popular with artists and poets. d Map Q5 • Avda. 25 de Mayo 722 • 4312-8275 • $
@ Cabaủa Las Lilas The shock of splurging at arguably the city’s best steak- house can be tempered at lunchtime when beef prices are more budget-friendly. d Map R6
• Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, Puerto Madero • 4313-1336 • $$
£ Sabot Every little thing is done right at Sabot – perfectly seared sweetbreads, grilled fish, wines, and unobtrusive service. d Map Q5 • 25 de Mayo 756 • 4313-6587 • $$
$ FILO The fanciful decor reflects the creativity of this pizzeria with signature pies outnumbered only by the salad combos. FILO also rotates painting exhibitions through its space.d Map Q5 • Calle San Martín 975 • 4311-1871 • $$
% Tribeca Modern
Argentinian cuisine including exquisite meat, fish, and pasta dishes, is served at Tribeca. Customers select wine from the bijou wine boutique.
d Map Q5 • Tucumán 271, Microcentro • 4312-8337
^ Tomo I Delicate porteủo cuisine is served in a dignified room here.
d Map P6 • Calle Carlos Pellegrini 521, Microcentro • 4326-6695 • $$$$
& El Patio This bustling and affordable place serves humbly prepared porteủo fare.d Map Q6 • Ex- Convento Grande de San Ramón Nonato, Calle Reconquista 269 • 4343-0290 • $
* Dadá Amid bright furnishings and antique fixtures, business types and nattily dressed scenesters share lunches or an extend happy hour. d Map Q5 • Calle San Martín 941 • 4314-4787 • $$
( Florida Garden
The modern look obscures Florida Garden’s past life as an intellectuals’ haven. Borges (see p59) and his cadre held debates over pizzas here.d Map Q5 • Calle Florida 899 • 4312-7902 • $
) Hip Bar While Microcentro office workers choose Hip Bar for an
afternoon tortilla espaủola, the vaguely Irish, unabashedly rock ‘n’ roll pub comes into its own after work, with British rock blaring and beer specials after 6pm.d Map F2
• Calle Hipolito Yrigoyen 640 • 4342-0234 • $
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