Aƒpj"ikƒ"m院 tq u違 th穎 nghi 羽o"vjgq"rj逢挨pi"rjƒr"itcd

Một phần của tài liệu Nghiên cứu sự biến đổi độ bền đường may trên trang phục quân đội (Trang 85)

M 浦T S渦 ""JK烏 U VI 蔭T 溢T

4.4.7. Aƒpj"ikƒ"m院 tq u違 th穎 nghi 羽o"vjgq"rj逢挨pi"rjƒr"itcd

J·pj"4.3. Biあw"8げ th hin lばe"mfiq"8とv"8⇔ぜpi"oc{"vtwpi"d·pj"eてc"eƒe"nqTi ch th

nghiうo"vt‒p"eƒe"odu vi th nghiうo"vjgq"rj⇔¬pi"rjƒr"itcd0"*A¬p"xお: N)

J·pj"4.4. Biあw"8げ th hin lばe"mfiq"8とv"8⇔ぜpi"oc{"vtwpi"d·pj"eてa eƒe"nqTi ch th

nghiうo"vt‒p"eƒe"odu vi th nghim sau gipv"vjgq"rj⇔¬pi"rjƒr"itcd0"*A¬p"xお: N) ‚ T瑛 bi吋w"8欝j·pj"605"x "606, cho th医{"8嘘i v噂k"vj "pijk羽m ki吋o"vtc"8瓜 b隠p"mfiq" 8泳v"8逢運pi"oc{"vjgq"rj逢挨pi"rjƒr"itcd"e„"n詠e"mfiq"8泳t th医r"j挨p"uq"x噂k"rj逢挨pi"rjƒr" strip."8嘘i v噂i m磯u th穎 nghi羽o"vt逢噂c khi gi員t:

oM磯u v違i Gabadin ngp"92152."8瓜 b隠n c栄c"8逢運ng may v噂i ch雨oc{"RGV"7215"8衣t ikƒ"vt鵜 l噂n nh医t (256,4 N), v噂i m磯u ch雨 oc{"RGV"8214"8衣v"8瓜 b隠n th医p nh医t (164,78 183,28 238,06 306,78 286,14 255,4 314,44 164,78 199,02 178,28 191,7 215,04 207,7 204,62 210,2 293,96 228,82 263,04 237,38 225 392,46 327,72 288,66 293,94 302,26 256,4 333,74 332,86 356,72 333,92 371,8 213,12 270,24 360,6 268,62 372,8 331,88 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450

70/30 50/50 peco pevi ejfiq"EXE tropical

]迂

Iふ

d

]ラ緯キ" 胃キ

peco 60/3 PET 60/2 PET 40/2 PET 60/3 PET 50/3 PET 40/3

154,02 278,6 159,22 245,9 215,16 263,74 136,62 138,12 115,56 170,12 164,9 140,36 166,36 179,56 126,88 194,36 196,08 208,02 192,28 329,06 148,34 224,9 233,68 277,88 196,62 218,4 220,14 312,9 273,4 330,8 174,02 202,48 233,7 238,12 293,74 271,92 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350

70/30 50/50 peco pevi ejfiq"EXE tropical

]迂

I"

ふd

]ラ緯キ" 胃キ

N). M磯u v違i Gabadin ngp"72172."8瓜 b隠p"8逢運ng may v噂i ch雨 may RGV"8215"8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 cao nh医t (392,46 N), th医p nh医v"n "x噂i m磯u ch雨 PET 60/2 (199,02N). M磯u v違i Gabadin rgeq"M2:."8瓜 b隠p"8逢運ng may v噂i m磯u ch雨 RGV"6215"8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 cao nh医t (360,6 N), v噂i m磯u ch雨RGV"8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 th医p nh医t (178,28 N). M磯u v違i Popeline pevi K35."8瓜 b隠n 8逢運ng may v噂i m磯u ch雨 RGV"7215"8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 cao nh医t (356,72 N), th医p nh医v"n "x噂i m磯u ch雨 PET 60/2 (191,7 N). M磯u v違k"ejfiq"EXE"kp"nqcpi"M42."8瓜 b隠p"8逢運ng may 8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 cao nh医t v噂i m磯u ch雨 PET 40/3 (372,8 N), th医p nh医v"n "x噂i ch雨 PET 60/2 (2215,04 N). M磯u v違i Tropical kp"nqcpi"M42."8瓜 b隠p"8逢運pi"oc{"8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 cao nh医t v噂i m磯u ch雨 RGV"7215"*593.:"P+."ikƒ"vt鵜8衣t th医p nh医t v噂i m磯u ch雨 PET 60/2 (207,7 N).

‚ 雲rj逢挨pi"rjƒr"vj穎 nghi羽o"p {."eƒe"o磯u sau gi員v"e„"ikƒ"vt鵜8瓜 b隠p"8泳v"8逢運ng may gi違m t雨 l羽pj逢vt逢噂c khi gi員t.

‚ K院t qu違 th穎 nghi羽o"uq"uƒpj"x噂i m磯u ch雨 truy隠n th嘘ng peco 60/3

Bng 4.52. B違pi"uq"uƒpj"ikƒ"vt鵜 l詠e"mfiq"8泳v"vtwpi"d·pj"e栄a m瓜t s嘘 lo衣i ch雨8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 8瓜 b隠p"8泳v"8逢運ng may cao j挨p"so v噂i ch雨 may rgeq"8215"vjgq"rj逢挨pi"rjƒr"itcd0

(th穎 nghi羽m sau khi gi員t) Lo衣i v違i

Ch雨 may

Peco 60/3 (N)

PET 40/3 PET 50/3 PET 60/3

L詠c (N) Bi院n vjk‒p *v<pi+ L詠c (N) Bi院n vjk‒p *v<pi+ L詠c (N) Bi院n vjk‒p *v<pi+ V違i Gabadin len 70/30 154,02 174,02 1,13 196,62 1,28 192,28 1,25 V違i Gabadin len 50/50 278,6 202,48 0,73 218,4 0,78 329,06 1,18 V違i Gabadin peco K08 159,22 233,7 1,47 220,14 1,38 148,34 0,93 V違i Popeline pevi K13 245,9 238,12 0,97 312,9 1,27 224,9 0,91 V違k" ejfiq" EXE" kp" loang K20 215,16 293,74 1,37 273,4 1,27 233,68 1,09 V違i Tropical in loang K20 263,74 271,92 1,03 330,8 1,25 277,88 1,05

T瑛 k院t qu違 b違ng 4.52, Lu壱p"x<p"n詠a ch丑n ch雨 oc{"RGV"6215"ejq"eƒe"nq衣i v違i Gabadin peco K08, v違k"ejfiq"exe"kp"nqcpi"M42."n詠a ch丑n ch雨 oc{"RGV"7215"ejq"eƒe" lo衣i v違i Gabadin len 70/30, v違i Popeline rgxk"M35"x "x違i Tropical in loang K20, v噂i v違i Gabadin len 50/50 l詠a ch丑n ch雨 may PET 60/3.

Pj逢"x壱y 荏 rj逢挨pi"rjƒr"vj穎 nghi羽o"uvtkr"8瓜 b隠n c栄a v違i Gabadin ngp"72172"e„" ikƒ"vt鵜v逢挨pi"8嘘k"ecq"j挨p"uq"x噂i khi s穎 d映ng ch雨rgeq"6215"*8衣v"ikƒ tr鵜 383,78 >215,06 N (s穎 d映ng ch雨 rgeq"8215+"P+"pj逢pi"mjk"vj詠c hi羽p"rj逢挨pi"rjƒr"vj穎jck"vj·"8瓜 b隠n 8逢運ng may gi違o"8k"*8衣v"ikƒ"vt鵜 202,48 N < 278,6 N (s穎 d映ng ch雨 may peco 60/3)), do 8„"8嘘i chi院u v噂i 2 b違pi"6049"x "6074, l詠a ch丑n ch雨 may PET 60/3 cho lo衣i v違i Gabadin len 50/50.

4.5. Kh違q"uƒv"ikƒ"vt鵜 kinh t院 c栄c"8隠v k

Bng 4.53.KhVq"uƒv"ikƒ"vjおvt⇔ぜng hiうp"pc{"8ぐi vi mt s loi ch may (theo s liu

dƒq"ikƒ"eてc"pj "uVn xut chえp<o"4243+

STT Lo衣i ch雨 may A挨p"ikƒ (nij·p"8欝ng) Ijk"ej¿ 01 Ch雨 Peco 60/3 45.104 02 Ch雨 PET 60/3 39.181 03 Ch雨 PET 50/3 43.084 04 Ch雨 PET 40/3 35.170 05 Ch雨 PET 60/2 33.118 06 Ch雨 PET 40/2 33.560

T瑛 k院t qu違 605"x "606"x "d違pi"ikƒ"mj違q"uƒv"ej雨 may, n院u l詠a ch丑n ch雨 may PET 60/3, PET 50/3, PET 40/3 so v噂i ch雨 rgeq"vj·"ejk"rj "rj映 li羽u s胤8逢嬰c gi違o"8k"8ƒpi" k吋 l亥p"n逢嬰v"n "35.35"'="6.6:"'="44.24"'"0

M蔭V"NW一P

K院t qu違 kh違q"uƒv"eƒe"nq衣i v違k"8cpi"u穎 d映pi"8吋 may trang ph映e"sw¤p"8瓜k"*sw¤p" ph映c) bao g欝m 6 lo衣i v違i: v違i Gabadin len (70/30; 50/50), v違i Gabadin peco K08, v違i Popeline pevi K13, v違k"ejfiq"EXE"kp"nqcpi"M42."x違i Tropical in loang K20.

T瑛 k院t qu違 th穎 nghi羽o"vjgq"jck"rj逢挨pi"rjƒr."v瑛eƒe"dk吋w"8欝uq"uƒpj"e„"vj吋t¿v"tc" l詠a ch丑n lo衣i ch雨oc{"rj́"j嬰p v噂i lo衣i v違i nh茨o"8衣v"8逢嬰e"8瓜 b隠n c栄c"8逢運ng may cao nh医v"8嘘i v噂i trang ph映e"sw¤p"8瓜k"pj逢"ucw<

‚ Ch丑n ch雨 may PET 50/3 cho trang ph映c v噂k"piw{‒p"nk羽w"n "x違i Gabadin len 70/30, v違i Popeline rgxk"M35"x "x違i Tropical in loang K20.

‚ Ch丑n ch雨 may PET 40/3 cho trang ph映c v噂k"piw{‒p"nk羽w"n "x違k"Ejfiq"EXE"kp" lqcpi"M42"x "x違i Gabadin peco K08.

‚ Ch丑n ch雨 may PET 60/3 cho trang ph映c v噂k"piw{‒p"nk羽w"n "x違i Gabadin len 50/50.

Vi羽c l詠a ch丑n ph映 li羽w"oc{"rj́"j嬰p s胤i„r"rj亥p"p¤pi"ecq"ej医v"n逢嬰ng s違n ph育m x "ik違o"ejk"rj "u違n xu医t.

Eƒe"pijk‒p"e泳w"n "o瓜t th詠c nghi羽m h英w" eh cho s違n xu医v"e»pi"pijk羽p may vtqpi"sw¤p"8瓜i. A¤{"n "8隠v k"pijk‒p"e泳w"ocpi"#"pij c"e違 v隠mj c"e衣nh h丑c thu壱v"x " th詠c ti宇n. K院t qu違pijk‒p"e泳u s胤 t衣q"e挨"u荏n#"vjw{院v"8吋i„r"rj亥p"x q"j羽 th嘘pi"pijk‒p" c泳u m嘘i quan h羽 gi英a kim - ch雨 - v違k"vtqpi"e»pi"pijk羽p may. K院t qu違 th詠c ti宇n s胤i„r" ph亥p"x q"xk羽e"zƒe"8鵜pj"8逢嬰c lo衣i ch雨rj́"j嬰p v噂i lo衣i v違i s穎 d映pi"8違m b違q"v pj"d隠n v英ng c栄a trang ph映e"vtqpi"sw¤p"8瓜k"x "i„r"rj亥n gi違o"ejk"rj "u違n xu医t t瑛 vi羽c gi違m 8逢嬰e"ejk"rj "rj映 li羽u ch雨 may.

H衣n ch院 c栄c"8隠v k"x "j逢噂pi"rjƒv tri吋n:

Eƒe"pijk‒p"e泳u th詠c nghi羽o"8逢嬰c th詠c hi羽p"vt‒p"o磯u v違i trong th運i gian th穎 nghi羽o"e”p"pi逸p"p‒p"m院t qu違8ƒpj"ikƒ"ej逢c"e„"u詠ej‒pj"n羽ch l噂p0"Fq"8„"e”p"f磯p"8院n m瓜t s嘘 m磯u v違k"e„"u詠 sai l羽ej"mj»pi"8欝ng nh医v"pj逢"n "x違i Gabadin len 50/50. Do 違nh j逢荏ng c栄a 8衣i d鵜ch Covid-19 d磯p"8院p"8k隠u ki羽n th穎 nghi羽o"e”p"j衣n ch院."p‒p"ej逢c" 8ƒpj"ikƒ"8逢嬰e"vq p"fk羽p"eƒe"{院u t嘘違pj"j逢荏pi"8院p"8瓜 b隠p"8逢運ng may.

J逢噂pi"rjƒv"vtk吋n ti院p theo c栄c"8隠 v k<"Vk院p t映e"pijk‒p"e泳w"vt‒p"eƒe"o磯u ch雨 m噂i e„"mj違 p<pi"ej嘘ng l衣i s詠 bi院n d衣pi."8違m b違q"8瓜 b隠p"ecq"vtqpi"eƒe"8k隠u ki羽n th穎 nghi羽m r瓜pi"j挨p"rj́"j嬰r"j挨p"x噂k"8k隠u ki羽n c栄a b瓜8瓜i.

VÉK"NK烏U THAM KH謂O

[1] U0"Ocpfcn."ÐUvwfkgu"qh"ugco"swcnkv{"ykvj"ugykpi"vjtgcf"uk¦g."uvkvej"fgpukv{"cpf"fabric ptqrgtvkgu.Ñ" "Rj0"F0"Fkuugtvcvkqp."Vhe Hong Kong polytechnic university, 2008. [2] O0"Cmvgt"cpf"O0"O0"T0"Mjcp."ÐVjg"ghhgev"qh"uvkvej"v{rgu"cpf"ugykpi"vjtgcf"v{rgu"qp"

ugco"uvtgpivj"hqt"eqvvqp"crrctgn.Ñ"Int. J. Sci. Eng. Res., vol. 6, no. 7, pp. 198Î205, 2015.

[3] A. Mazatk."H0"Oc¦ctk."G0"Cm›ci¯p."cpf"R0"Mgl¦nct."ÐGhhgev"qh"ugykpi"urggf"qp"vjg" rj{ukecn"rtqrgtvkgu"qh"hktghkijvgt"ugykpi"vjtgcfu.Ñ"Ind. Textila, vol. 67, no. 5, pp. 333Î

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[4] O0" T0" Mjcp." U0" Tcugn." cpf" F0" Fcu." ÐGhhgev" qh" Vjtead Count and Stitch Density ( SPI) on 2/3" Vyknn" Yqxgp" Hcdtke.Ñ Kpvgtpcvkqpcn" Lqwtpcn" qh" Uekgpvkhke" (" Gpikpggtkpi"Tgugctej,"vol. 4750, no. January, pp. 37Î45, 2020.

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Dqug." ÐVwhting thread and density controls the mode-I fracture toughness in

ectdqp1grqz{"eqorqukvg.Ñ"Compos. Struct., vol. 261, no. November 2020, p. 113272, 2021, doi: 10.1016/j.compstruct.2020.113272.

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b隠p"8逢運pi"oc{"x "8瓜8泳t ch雨vtqpi"swƒ"vt·pj"oc{.Ñ Lu壱p"x<p"vj衣e"u .A衣i h丑e"Dƒej" Mjqc"J "P瓜i, 2007.

[7] L. T. H. H衣pj."ÐPijk‒p"e泳u 違pj"j逢荏ng c栄c"8員e"v pj"e挨"n "ej雨oc{"8院p"8瓜pj<p"8逢運ng

oc{.Ñ Lu壱p"x<p"vj衣e"u .A衣i h丑e"Dƒej"Mjqc"J "P瓜i, 2007.

[8] N. T. M. Chi院p."ÐPijk‒p"e泳u 違pj"j逢荏ng c栄c"eƒe"vj»pi"u嘘e»pi"pij羽oc{"8院p"8瓜pj<p" 8逢運pi"oc{"vt‒p"x違i l映c"v挨"v茨m Vi羽t Nam.Ñ Lu壱p"x<p"vj衣e"u . A衣i h丑e"Dƒej"Mjqc"J "

N瓜i, 2008.

[9] P0"V0"Zw¤p."ÐPijk‒p"e泳u s詠違pj"j逢荏ng c栄a m瓜t s嘘vj»pi"u嘘e»pi"pij羽 ma{"8院n ch医t

n逢嬰ng s違n ph育m t瑛 v違k"vtƒpi"rj栄.Ñ"Lu壱p"x<p"vj衣e"u ."A衣i h丑e"Dƒej"Mjqc"J "P瓜i, 2009. [10] P0"A0"Vt映."ÐMj違q"uƒv"8員e"vt逢pi"m悦 thu壱t c栄a m瓜t s嘘 ch雨oc{"e»pi"pijk羽p s穎 d映ng cho m瓜t s嘘 lo衣i v違k"vj»pi"f映pi"x "x違i k悦 thu壱v"e„"e医w"vt¿e"x "ej医t li羽w"mjƒe"pjcw.Ñ Lu壱n

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m嘘i quan h羽 gi英c"eƒc y院u t嘘.Ñ Lu壱p"x<p"vj衣e"u .A衣i h丑e"Dƒej"Mjqc"J "P瓜i, 2012. [12] L. T. P. Th違q."ÐZƒe"8鵜nh h羽 s嘘 gi違m b隠n c栄a ch雨x "j羽 s嘘 hi羽u d映ng c栄c"8逢運ng may

o k"vjqk"vj詠c hi羽n may m瓜t s嘘 lo衣i v違i may m員c s違n xu医v"ƒq"mjqƒe"pjk隠u l噂r0.Ñ"Lu壱n

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Bangladesh, no. April, 2019, doi: 10.13140/RG.2.2.33906.96965.

[19] S. Maity, $[ctpu" wugf" kp" vgejpkecn" vgzvkngu.$ Vjg" Kpfkcp" Vgzvkng" Lqwtpcn, no. September 2013. 2013.

[20] W. R. H Eberle, H Hermelling, M Hornberger, R Kilgus and D Menzer, Clothing Technology. Verlag Europa-Lehrmittel: Germany, 2002.

[21] P. T. Th違q."ÐPijk‒p"e泳u c医w"vt¿e"x違k"vtƒpi"rj栄x "eƒe"{院u t嘘違pj"j逢荏pi"8院n 8員e"vt逢pi" e挨"n#"e栄c"8逢運pi"oc{.Ñ"Lu壱p"ƒp"Vk院p"u ."Vt逢運pi"A衣i h丑e"Dƒej"Mjqc"J "P瓜i, 2006. [22] ASTM.."ÐUvcpfctf"Vguv"Ogvjqf"hqt"Hcknwtg"kp"Ugyp"Ugcou"qh"Yqxgp"Hcdtkeu.Ñ"U.S,

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rctv"3.Ñ"U.S, ISO 13935-1, 2014.

[24] ASTM ÐVgzvkngu"Ï Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles

rctv"4.Ñ U.S, ISO 13935-2, 2014.

[25] P0"X0"N¤p."Xぬn#"vjぐpi"m‒"uぐ liu thc nghiうo"x "pjのpi"x "fつとng dng tropi"pi pj"

H丑x "v‒p<"XK"X;P"NWåP

Pi {."vjƒpi."p<o"ukpj<"05/06/1995 P挨k"ukpj<"N衣pi"U挨p A鵜a ch雨nk‒p"n衣c: 3;2"Swcpi"Vtwpi."Rj逢運ng 10, qu壱p"I”"X医p, TP.HCM

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SWè"VTîPJ"AÉQ"V萎Q

2013 - 2018: H丑e"xk‒p"8 q"v衣q"8衣i h丑e"nk‒p k院t H丑c vi羽n K悦 thu壱v"Sw¤p"u詠 - A衣i h丑e"Dƒej"mjqc"J "P瓜i, K悦u逢"E»pi"pij羽 may.

2018: H丑e"xk‒p"n噂p b欝k"f逢叡ng ki院n th泳c Qw¤p"u詠 chung *8"vjƒpi+."Vt逢運pi"u "swcp" L映e"Sw¤p"3"*Vt逢運pi"A衣i h丑c Tr亥n Qu嘘c Tu医n)

2020 - 2021: H丑e"xk‒p"ecq"j丑e"ejw{‒p"pi pj"E»pi"pij羽 d羽t may."Vt逢運pi"A衣i h丑c Dƒej"Mjqc."A衣i h丑c Qu嘘c gia Tp.HCM

SWè"VTîPJ"EðPI"VèE

2018 - pc{<"E»pi"vƒe"v衣i Ban K悦 thu壱t Î Ki吋o"8鵜pj"rj c"Pco1"Rj”pi"M悦 thu壱t - Ki吋o"8鵜nh /C映e"Sw¤p"pjw1V鰻ng c映c H壱u c亥n/B瓜 Qu嘘e"rj”pi.

Một phần của tài liệu Nghiên cứu sự biến đổi độ bền đường may trên trang phục quân đội (Trang 85)