Milk and modernity health and culinary h

Milk and Modernity: Health and Culinary Heritage in South China MAK, Sau Wa A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfilment of the Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Anthropology The Chinese University of Hong Kong June 2012 i Thesis / Assessment Committee Professor Cheung, Sidney Chin Hung (Chair) Professor Tan, Chee-Beng (Thesis Supervisor) Professor Bosco, Joseph (Committee Member) Professor Pollock, Nancy (External Examiner) ii Abstract of thesis entitled: Milk and Modernity: Health and Culinary Heritage in South China Submitted by MAK, Sau Wa For the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Anthropology at the Chinese University of Hong Kong in June 2012 Abstract This thesis is an ethnographic study of the change in the production and consumption of indigenous and imported cow milk in South China, particularly Shunde and Hong Kong, during the post-Mao period Contrary to the popular view that cow milk consumption in China is a result of Western influence, the milk production and consumption in South China is actually a continuation of the Chinese tradition This thesis shows that the popularity of milk consumption in Shunde and Hong Kong is driven by the forces of colonialism, globalization, capitalism, and modern state-building Milk consumption in these two places is mainly promoted through three kinds of agents - the market (global and local milk companies, financial investors, food-packaging companies), medical professionals and the State I illustrate how these forces and agents affect the classification, meanings and values of health and culinary heritage, and how this results in a reinvention of tradition and a change in the concept of morality, amidst concerns over food safety By examining the transformation of the values associated with milk in the process of production and consumption, I show how health and culinary heritage become the contested ground in the reconfiguration of modern identity and social relationship, while complying with the vision of the government in the building of national pride i 牛奶與現代性：一項南中國之健康、飲食文化遺產研究 麥秀華 香港中文大學 人類學課程哲學博士論文 二零一二年六月 論文摘要 這項研究是以民族誌 描述方法，以南中國傳統的原生牛奶和現代的進口 牛奶之生產及消費 。對近代中國奶品需求急增的 研究，大多解釋為現代西方飲食習慣之影響。我透過在順德及香港牛奶生產者 及消費者日常生活的描述，試圖說明這飲食習慣的改變並非單是「西化」；相 反，這其實是中國傳統的一種延續，再由殖民主義、資本主義，全球化，及中 國建構新型國家這四種動力驅使下形成。而這四種動力又有賴市場 (本地及跨 國的乳品公司、財金投資者、食品包裝生產商等) 、醫科專業人士及政府對 「健 康」、「飲食文化遺產」等概念賦予新的社會價值。本文嘗試透過傳統和現代 的牛奶之生產及消費，審視現代中國人對「健康」和「飲食文化遺產」的觀念 和價值，在近年食品安全問題的陰霾下如何改變，這又如何反映中國在現代化 和新型國家建構過程中的社會變遷，並探究有關身份認同，家庭角色與現代性 的意涵。 ii Foreword and Acknowledgements In mid- 2000’s, while I was still the Marketing Director of a food trading company, I faced a difficult task in convincing the renowned Chinese chefs in Hong Kong to use Kikkoman soy sauce from Japan in Chinese cooking No matter how we cut the price, and how we proved its quality and taste to be supreme, the Chinese chefs were reluctant to use it to replace the Chinese soy sauce It was until I attended a lecture of my supervisor, Professor Tan Chee-Beng, on food and culture, that I found the answers Taste is cultural, pointing to ethnicity and identity Applying Japanese soy sauce to Chinese dishes, no matter how much better the taste would be, challenges the culinary art and skills of Chinese apprenticeship which the renowned chefs have gained by decades of hard-work In addition, it challenges their identity as Chinese chefs, as opposite to those who are specializing in Japanese food But the seed of this research was actually sown in 2008 when the Sanlu milk scandal of China broke out What caught my attention was not only how the victims were harassed by the authorities in China, but also how important milk products are to the Chinese people today The Chinese people were said to be lactose-intolerant Why the Chinese people consume so much milk products today? I eventually embarked on this PhD research to seek better answers The more I researched, the more fascinated I became with the topic, especially on the fading buffalo cheese tradition in Shunde My research became an exploratory ethnographic study of foodways change in south China, as a re-invention of tradition in modernity I would like to thank all those who have been helping me in the course of my research and writing this thesis Firstly, I am indebted to my advisor and mentor Professor Tan Chee-Beng, who has been my inspirational role model, giving me iii encouragement, prodding me in the right direction, and patiently working to help me clarify my thoughts and editing my thesis I would also like to thank my other committee members: Professor Sidney Cheung, who inspired me to start my first project in local tea cafes; Professor Joseph Bosco, who introduced me to the study of economic anthropology; the external examiner, Nancy Pollock, who gave me very useful comments I am grateful to Nancy for her suggestions and encouragement I am also grateful to the other teachers in the department for their teaching and suggestion Professor Tracy Lu was in fact my first informant from Shunde and she shared with me her experience of home-made stir-fried buffalo milk Thanks also to Professor Gordon Mathews for his interesting theory course, Professor Maria Tam, for her writings on food and her lectures on gender, Professor Wu Keping, for being my supervisor in the directed study; Professor Saroja Dorairajoo and Dr Wang Danning for encouraging me on the Ph.D applications; and all the administration staffs in the anthropology department for their kind and professional support Thanks also to Professor Zhu Jiangang and Cheng Yu of Sun Yat-sen University, who provided me with valuable insights on civil rights, food safety and the health scenario in China I am also indebted to many of my friends and classmates, including Cecilia Ho, Dr Lo Sukying, Daniel Chan, Luo Jiting, Leo Pang, Philipp Demgenski, and others for their selfless sharing, support and help in completing the thesis My research in Shunde would not have been possible had I not had the support of Mr Chan Takwing of Shun Tak Fraternal Association, for making all the fieldwork arrangements in Shunde, ranging from accommodations to reaching local connections Moreover, I am obliged to the headmaster Luo Meinuo, adminstration officers Huang Jianhua, Chen Zhentong, Wang Yinghui and many other teachers who helped me to arrange the focus groups of students, as well as sharing their iv experience of milk consumption in their everyday life In addition, special thanks to Mr Liao Xixiang for sharing with me his knowledge of Shunde cuisine Furthermore, I would like express my deepest appreciation to all my informants in Hong Kong and Shunde who shared their time and personal lives with me, patiently answering my many questions and helping me out during the fieldwork period Special thanks to Dr Sophie Leung, a medical doctor in Hong Kong, for guiding me along the medical and nutrition issues with regards to milk consumption Lastly, I would like to register my gratitude to my parents, who accompanied me to Shunde, for their caring and loving kindness to me and Silex, my son, and taking care of my son when I was doing research Also, I give my heartfelt thanks to my wonderful husband, Born Lo Without his emotional support and advice, I would not have been able to embark on this course of study, let alone finish it v Contents Abstracts……… ………………………………………………………………………i Foreword & Acknowledgements…………………………………………………… iii Table of Content………………………….… ……… ……………………………… vi Table of Illustrations, Figure and Map.… ……… …………………………………x Chapter 1: Introduction Milk and Modernity………………………………………………………… (9) Health, Culinary Heritage and Construction of National Pride…………… (12) Hong Kong and Shunde…………………………………………………… (15) Organization of the thesis…………………………………………………… (20) Chapter 2: Historical and Ethnographic Background……………………… (22) Production and Health Belief of Milk in Ancient China…………………… (24)  Functions of Milk and Health in Ancient China………………………… (30) Ecological and Culinary History of Daliang and Shunde………… ……… (32)  Political Economy of Mulberry, Fishpond and Water Buffalo…… … (34)  Buffalo Cheese Production in Jinbang village………………………… (38) Production of Milk in Hong Kong……………………………………………(44)  Colonialist and the Dairy Farm……………………………………………(44) Missionary Activities and the Trappist Dairy Farm…………………… (48) Diffusion of Culinary Techniques and Buffalo’s Milk Culture from Shunde to Hong Kong………………………………………………… (50) Conclusion: Milk, Health and Culinary Art………………………………….(54)  Chapter 3: The Production of Milk in China with Special Reference to Shunde………… ……………………… (59) Indigenous Milk Production in Shunde…………………………………… (60)  Traditional Buffalo’s Milk in Pre-Modern China……………………… (60)  Traditional Buffalo’s Milk in Modern China…………………………… (63) Foreign Cow’s Milk Production in China……………………………………(68)  Modern Foreign Dairy Farms in China… ……….………………………(69)  Foreign Cow’s Milk Production in China…………………………………(71) Chinese Tradition in Foreign Cow’s Milk Drinks………………………… (77) Modern State, Global Capitalism and Food Safety………………………… .(80) Conclusion…………………………………………………………………….(83) vi Chapter 4: The Consumption of Milk in Shunde (1): Traditional Buffalo’s Milk and Modern Cow’s Milk …………………….(85) The Functions of Traditional Buffalo’s Milk……………………………… (86)  Buffalo Cheese as Medicine……………………………………………… (86)  Buffalo’s Milk as Bupin…………………………………………………… (87) Re-invention of Traditional Buffalo’s Milk Cuisines as Modern Culinary Heritage……………………………………………… (90)  Double-layered Milk Custard……………………………………………….(91)  Stir-fried Buffalo’s Milk…………………………………………………… (95)  Deep-fried Buffalo’s Milk……………………………………………………(97)  Supreme Buffalo’s Milk ……………………………………………… ……(98) Modern Cow’s Milk and Continuation of Tradition……………………… (102)  Modern Cow’s Milk Drink and Tradition Breakfast Structure……… (102)  The Tradition of Hong Kong-style Milk Tea and Taiwan Pearl Milk Tea……………………………………………… (104) Conclusion………………………………………………………………… (110) Chapter 5: The Consumption of Milk in Shunde (2): Formula Milk …… (112) Risk and Social Functions of Formula Milk…… …………………………(114)  Responsible Mother and the New Rationalities of Weaning………… (114)  Working Class: Purchase of Foreign Brand as a Modern Successful Father……………………………………………(116) Migrant Workers: Foreign Brands as Bupin….…………………… (119)  Middle and Upper Class: Cross-border purchase of milk powder and the Geo-Politics of Hong Kong………………………………………(120) Tradition in Modern Cow’s Milk…………………………………………… (123)  Revival of Traditional and Local Buffalo’s Milk……………………… (124)  Traditional Soymilk Consumption……………………………………… (127)  Traditional Health Belief and Consumption of Milk Products……… (127) Global Medical Knowledge, the State and the Local Professional Group…… (128) Conclusion…………………………………………………………………… (129)  Chapter 6: The Consumption of Milk in Hong Kong (1): Canned Milk… (131) Sweetened Condensed Milk as Breast Milk Substitute…………………… (133) Colonial Power and the Hierarchy of Milk………………………………… (136) Milk, Oat Meal and the Traditional Chinese Meal Structure……………… (140) Evaporated Milk in Authentic Hong Kong-style Milk Tea……………… (144) Canned Milk, Health and Culinary Heritage……………… (148) vii Conclusion……………… (154) Chapter 7: The Consumption of Milk in Hong Kong (2) :Formula Milk… (156) 1930-50s - Condensed milk, Horlicks Milk and Powdered Milk as Modern Breast Milk Substitute ………… ……………………………….(157) 1960s-1980s- Docile Working Mother and Chubby Baby…… ……………(160) 2000-Present: Risk Society, Mother’s Body and Smart Baby…….…………(165)  Mother’s Body and the Risk of Down-streaming…………… …………(169)  Ideal Smart Babies and the Fear of Global Competition … ……….…(171) Breast-Feeding as Resistance……………………………………… ………(177) Milk Politics: The Government, the Doctors and the Formula milk corporations……………………………………… (178) Conclusion.…………………………………………………………………(182) Chapter 8: The Politics of Culinary Heritage and State’s Policy of Well-Being………………………………………… (185) Technics and the Changing Meanings of Culinary Heritage in Daliang…… (187)  Local Radio Program: The legends of Daliang Gastronomy …… (188)  Foshan TV program: The Nostalgic series ….……………… …………(190)  Private Kitchen Competition and Professional Chef Competition…….(191)  Daliang and Shunde Gastronomy Map and Post-card……….……… (195) Local Government and UNESCO City of Gastronomy …………………… (196) Seeking to be a World Gastronomy City………………………………… (198)  Lingnan Food Culture Festival (July – October 2011)…………………(203) Global Gastronomy City and the Local Gastromanie Identity……………….(205) Politics of Intangible Culture Heritage in Shunde………………………… (208) Culinary Heritage, Civilized City and the Politics of Well-Being (xingfu)….(210) Conclusion ………………………………………………………… ………(212)  Chapter 9: Conclusion – Milk and Modernity……………………………… (214) Buffalo’s Milk and Cow’s Milk…………………………………………… (214) Tradition in Modernity……………………………………………………….(216) Re-invention of Tradition…………………………………………………….(219) Risk, Health and Geo-Politics of Hong Kong……………………………… (221) Globalization, Milk and Health…………………… ……………………….(224) Health, Culinary Heritage and the State…………………………… .(227) Epilogue: Some Reflections on the Significance of Ethnography……… …(230) viii Hobsbawn, Eric 1992 [1983] and Terence Ranger, eds., The Invention of Tradition Cambridge : Cambridge University Press Hoffman, L 2003 Enterprising Cities and Citizens: The re-figuring of uran spaces and te making of post-mao professionals Provincial China (1):526 2006 Urban Transformation and professionalism: Translocality and rationalities of enterprise in post-Mao China In Tim Oakes and Louisa Schein, eds., Translocal China : linkages, identities, and the reimagining of space, Abingdon ; New York : Routledge Hsu, Francis 1949 Under the Ancestors’ Shadow: Chinese Culture and Personality London: Routledge & Kegan Paul Limited Huang, H T 2000 “Fermentations and food science.” In Joseph Needham, ed., Science and Civilisation in China Volume 6, Biology and Biological Technology Part V Cambridge University Press Huang, H T 2002 “Hypolactasia and the Chinese Diet.” Current Anthropology 43(5): 809 Hwang, Li-Jen Jessica, Jetske van Westering and Hsin-Hui Chen 2005 “Exploration of the Linkages between the Gastronomy and Heritage of Tainan City, Taiwan.” Advances in Hospitality and Leisure 1:223 – 235 Inda, Jonathan Xavier 2005 Anthropologies of Modernity: Foucault, Governmentality, and Life Politics Malden, MA: Blackwell Pub Jameson, Fredric 1991 Postmodernism, or, The Cultural Logic of Late Capitalism London ; New York : Verso Jia, Sixie 1939 Qimin yaoshu Shanghai : Shangwu yinshuguan Jing, Jun, ed 2000 Feeding China's Little Emperors Stanford, CA: Stanford Univ Press 251 Jing, Jun 1996 The Temple of Memories: History, Power, and Morality in a Chinese Village Stanford, Cal.: Stanford University Press Kahn, J 2001 'Anthropology and Modernity' (with CA Comment), Current Anthropology 42(1): 651-680 Kaptchuk, Ted J 2000 The Web that has no Weaver : Understanding Chinese Medicine Chicago, Ill : Contemporary Books Ke, Zhixiong (柯志雄) 2009 Zhongguo naishang 中國奶殤 (The Milk Crisis in China) Shanxi jingji chubanshe 山西經濟出版社 Ke, Wan-han (柯偉韓) 2012 Weiyuan reyi shunde goujian xiandaichanye tixi 委員熱 議順德構建現代產業體系 (Chinese Committees debated the Construction of Modern Industry and Property System in Shunde) (珠江商報 Zhujiang Business), 11 Jan At http://www.sc168.com/newstoutiao/.%5C201201110019.htm accessed May 2012 Kuhn, Dieter 1981 “Silk technology in the Sung period (960-1274 AD).” TP, 1981, 67( 1-2):48-90 Kipnis, Andrew B 1997 Producing Guanxi: Sentiment, Self, and Subculture in a North China Village Durham, North Carolina: Duke University Press Lam, T.C and H Chung, eds 2010 China’s Local Administration : Traditions and Changes in the sub-national hierarchy Routledge Latour, Bruno and Steve Woolgar 1986 Laboratory Life: the Construction of Scientific Facts Princeton, N.J : Princeton University Press Leach, Edmund 1964 "Anthropological Aspects of Language: Animal Categories and Verbal Abuse." In Eric Lenneberg, ed New Directions in the Study of Language, pp 23-63 Cambridge: MA: MIT Press 252 Lee Chin-Chuan, ed 2000 Power, Money, and Media: Communication Patterns and Bureaucratic Control in Cultural China Evanston, Ill : Northwestern University Press Lee, Leo Ou-fan 1999 Shanghai Modern: the Flowering of a New Urban Culture in China, 1930-1945 Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press Lei, Sean Hsiang-lin 2009 “Moral Community of [Weisheng]: Contesting Hygiene in Republican China.”East Asian Science, Technology and Society: An International Journal (4): 475-504 Li, Chiao-ping 1948 The Chemical Arts of Old China Journal of Chemical Education Easton, Pennylvania Li, Jianming 2006 Daliang haishi Taigen? (Daliang or Taigen?) Shunde renmin zhengfuwang 順 德 人 民 政 府 網 (Shunde Government Official Website) At http://sdshgz.shunde.gov.cn/data/main.php?id=2203-7270064 accessed on Jan 13, 2012 Li, Jing (李靜) 2011 “zhongguoshipin anquan jianguanzhidu youxiaoxing fenxi – jiyudui zhongguo naiye jianguan de kaocha” (中國食品安全監管制度有效性分 析—基於對中國奶業監管的考察) Wuhan Daxue xuebao zhexue shehuikexueban Diliujuan 武漢大學學報哲學社會科學版 Second issue, March Li, Shizhen, 2003 [1578] Compendium of Materia Medica : bencao gangmu Beijing : Foreign Languages Press Li, Ling-Yun and Hua Xiao-Gang(李凌雲、華孝剛), eds 1925 乳兒的榮養法(續) (Method of Breast-feeding) 晨報副鎸 chenbaofujuan hao August 39:1-2 Li, Qing-Yu, ed (李慶餘編) 2009 Yonglong qishiwuzai Xingjiang qingyuan 永隆七十 五載香江情緣 (Wing Lung, 75 Years in Hong Kong) 永隆銀行有限公司 (Wing Lung Company Limited)` 253 Liang, Chang and Liao Xi-Xiang ( 梁 昌 、 廖 錫 祥 ) 1997 Shundecai jingxuan Guangdongcai xiji 順 德 菜 精 選 東 菜 系 (Special Selections of Shunde, Guangdong Cuisines) Guangdong keji chubanshe (廣東科技出版社) Liang, Feng-Yi (梁鳳儀) 2011 Li Zhaoji boshi zhuanji 李兆基博士傳記 (The Life-story of Dr Li, Zhao-Ji) 勤+緣出版社 (Qin and Yuan chuhanshe) Liao, Xixiang (廖錫祥) 2009 Shunde yuansheng meishi (順德原生美食).Qingzhou chubanshe 青州出版社 Lin, George C S 1997 Red Capitalism in South China : Growth and Development of the Pearl River Delta Vancouver : UBC Press Lo, Shuk Ying 2009 Mother’s Milk and Cow’s Milk: Infant Feeding and the Reconstruction of Motherhood in Modern China, 1900-1937 Ph.D thesis in History, The Chinese University of Hong Kong Liu, Fengshu 2011 Urban Youth in China: Modernity, the Internet and the Self New York : Routledge 2008 “Constructing the Autonomous Middle-Class Self in Today’s China: The Case of Young-Adult Only-Children University Students” Journal of Youth Studies, 11 (2): 193-212 Lu, Dale (呂大樂), Wang Zhi-Zheng (王志錚) 2003 xinggang zhongchan jieji chujing guancha 香 港 中 產 階 級 處 境 觀 察 (An Observation of the Hong Kong Middle-Class) Hong Kong: Sanlian shudian (HK) youxian gongsi Malinowski, Bronislaw 1945 The Dynamics of Culture Change; An Inquiry into Race Relations in Africa New Haven : Yale University Press Ma, SC, et al 2002 "Antiviral Chinese Medicinal Herbs against Respiratory Syncytial Virus" Journal of Ethnopharmacology 79 (2): 205–11 Mak, Sau Wa 2008 “A Study of Potato in local Tea Café in Hong Kong.” paper presented in the colloquium « La Pomme de Terre: de la Renaissance au XXIe 254 siècle, Histoire, Société, Économie, Culture », Tours, France, November 18-20, 2008, organized by the City's History Center CeRMAHVA and the European Institute of Food History and Cultures IEHCA of Tours, with the Help of the Comité National Interprofessionnel de la Pomme de Terre Marcus, George E 1998 Ethnography through thick and thin Princeton, N.J : Princeton University Press Martin, Diana 2001 “Food Restrictions in Pregnancy among Hong Kong Mothers.” In David Y H Wu and Chee-Beng Tan, eds., Changing Chinese Foodways in Asia, pp.97-122 Hong Kong: The Chinese University Press Martin, Michael F 2007 “Hong Kong: Ten Years After the Handover” CRS Report for the Congress - Analyst in Asian Political Economics Foreign Affairs, Defense, and Trade Division, Government of United States Marx, Karl.1996 Collected Works: Capital, vol.1, New York: International Publishers McCollum, Elmer Verner 1918 The Newer Knowledge of Nutrition: the Use of Food for the Preservation of Vitality and Health The Macmillan company, McGee, Harold 1984 On Food and Cooking : the Science and Lore of the Kitchen New York: Collier Books Messer, Ellen 1984 ‘Anthropological Perspectives on Diet.’ Annual Review of Anthropology 13: 205-249 Mintz, Sidney W 1985 Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History New York: Viking Penguin Needham, Joseph, ed 1984 Science and Civilisation in China Volume 6, Biology and Biological Technology Part VI, Medicine Cambridge University Press Needham, R 1979 Symbolic Classification, Santa Monica, CA: Goodyear 255 Nestle, Marion 2002 Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health Revised and expanded edition Berkeley: University of California Press Nützenadel, Alexander and Frank Trentmann, eds 2008 Food and Globalization : Consumption, Markets and Politics in the Modern World Oxford and New York : Berg Ohnuki-Tierney, Emiko 1993 Rice as Self: Japanese Identities through Time Princeton: Princeton University Press Oldenburg, Ray 1989 The Great Good Place New York: Paragon House Ong A 1995 “Making the Biopolitical Subject: Cambodian Immigrants, Refugee Medicine and Cultural Citizenship in California Soc Sci Med 40(9):1243–57 Outka, Elizabeth 2009 Consuming Traditions: Modernity, Modernism, and the Commodified Authentic, Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press Palmer, Gabrielle 2009 The Politics of Breastfeeding : when Breasts are bad for Business London : Pinter & Martin Paull, John 2008 “The Greening of China’s Food - Green Food, Organic Food, and Eco-labelling”, paper presented at Sustainable Consumption and Alternative Agri-Food Systems Conference Liege University, Arlon, Belgium, 27 - 30 May Pelikan, Jăurgen M 2007 “Understanding Differentiation of Health in Late Modernity by Use of Sociological Systems Theory.” In McQueen, David V., Ilona Kickbusch, et al eds., Health and Modernity : the Role of Theory in Health Promotion New York : Springer Pollock, Nancy J 1992 These Roots Remain : Food Habits in Islands of the Central and Eastern Pacific since Western Contact The institute for Polynesian Studies and University of Hawaii Press 256 - 2001 “Nor Any Drop to drink: Everyday Drinking Habits in Pacific and New Zealand Societies.” In Igor and Valerie de Garine, eds Drinking: Anthropological Approach New York: Berghahn Books Propaganda Department of CPC Committee of Shunde District 2012.中國烹飪協會專 家組對順德申報“中國美食名城”展開論證 (The Experts from Chinese Culinary Association debated on the application of Shunde to be a “China Gastronomy City” At http://xcb.shunde.gov.cn/data/main.php?id=19079-120054 assessed on May, 2012 Qiu, Bincun 1941 Guangdong shatian 廣東沙田(The sands of Guangdong), Qujiang: Diyi Zhanqu Bianzuan Weiyuanhui Qiu, Jie (邱捷) 2004 清末廣東首富縣 (The Richest district of Guangdong in Late Qing dynasty) 南方日報 Nanfang Daily Reid R 1997 “Healthy Families, Healthy Citizens: the Politics of Speech and Knowledge in the California Anti-Secondhand Smoke Media Campaign.” Science as Culture 29:541–81 Renminwang 2003 Guangxi shuiniunai dai zai shengui shaorenshi 27 March Richards, Audrey I 1939 Land, Labour, and Diet in Northern Rhodesia: An Economic Study of the Bemba Tribe London: Routledge Ritzer, George 2007 The Blackwell Companion to Globalization Oxford: Blackwell Publishing Robbins, Richard H 2002 Global Problems and the Culture of Capitalism Boston, MA: Allyn and Baco Rofel, Lisa 1999 Other Modernities: Gendered yearnings in China after Socialism Berkeley, Los Angeles, and London: University of California Press 257 Rogaski, Ruth 2004 Hygienic Modernity : Meanings of Health and Disease in Treaty-Port China.Berkeley : University of California Press Rohrer, Finlo 2007 ‘China drinks its Milk’ in BBC News Magazine, August Rosch, E 1977 "Human Categorization." In Warren, Neil, ed., Advances in Cross-Cultural Psychology 1: 1-72 Rose N 1996 ‘Governing “advanced” Liberal Democracies.’ In Barry A, T Osborne, N Rose, eds., Foucault and Political Reason: Liberalism, Neo-liberalism, and Rationalities of Government, pp 37–64 Chicago: Univ Chicago Press Sabban, Francoise 2011 “Milk Consumption in China: The Construction of a New Food Habit.” Paper presented at the 12th Symposium on Chinese Dietary Culture Foundation of Chinese Dietary Culture, Okinawa, Japan, November 19-21, 2011 Schafer, Edward H 1977 “Tang.” In Chang, K C., ed Food in Chinese Culture: Anthropological and Historical Perspectives New Haven: Yale University Press Shah N 2001 Contagious Divides: Epidemics and Race in San Francisco's Chinatown Berkeley: Univ Calif Press Shehata, Samer S 1992 “The Politics of Laughter: Nasser, Sadat, and Mubarek in Egyptian Political Jokes.” Folklore 103(1):75-91 Shunde Gazette 1929 1929 edition Shundequ danganguan 2012 Accessed on Jan 13, 2012 http://da.shunde.gov.cn/second.php?singleid=13 Shunde Longjiang Gazette 1967 順德龍江鄉誌 Taibei: Chengwen chubanshe.成文出 版社 Siu, Helen F 1989 Agents and Victims in South China New Haven, CT: Yale Univ Press Smith, Carl T 1995 A Sense of History Hong Kong Education Publishing Co 258 Sonobe, Teysushi, Dinghuan Hu and Keijiro Otsuka 2002 “Process of Cluster Formation in China: A Case Study of a Garment Town” The Journal of Development Studies 39(1):140-164 Spence, Jonathan 1977 “Ching.” In Chang, K C., ed Food in Chinese Culture: Anthropological and Historical Perspectives New Haven: Yale University Press Spreer, Edgar.1998 Milk and Dairy Product Technology Marcel Dkker, Inc Stevens, Sarah Elizabeth 2001 Making Female Sexuality in Republican China Ph.D thesis History Department, Indiana University Stuart-Macadam, Patricia and Katherine A Dettwyler, ed 1995 Breastfeeding: Biocultural perspectives New York : Aldine De Gruyter Su, Yu (蘇禹) 2005 Bijiang jianggu 碧江講古(Old Stories of Bijiang) Huacheng chubanshe 花城出版社 Suarez-Villa, Luis 2012 Globalization and Technocapitalism: The Political Economy of Corporate Power and Technological Domination London: Ashgate Sun, Xianhong and Zhang, Zhiguo 2005 Mengniu neimu (蒙牛內幕 The Insider Stories of Mengniu) Beijing : Beijing University Press Swislocki, Mark S 2001 “Feast and Famine in Republican Shanghai: Urban Food Culture, Nutrition, and the State.” Ph.D Dissertation, Stanford University Tan, Chee-Beng 2001a “Food and Ethnicity with Reference to the Chinese in Malaysia.” In David Y H Wu and Tan Chee-Beng, eds., Changing Chinese Foodways in Asia, pp 125-160 Hong Kong: The Chinese University Press Tan, Chee-Beng 2001b “Anthropology and Modernity”' (Comment on Kahn), Current Anthropology 42(1): 651-680 259 Tan, Chee-Beng and Ding Yuling 2010 “The Promotion of Tea in South China: Re-Inventing Tradition in an Old Industry.” Food and Foodways 18(3):121-144 Tang, Kwong-Leung Colonial State and Social Policy: Social Welfare Development of Hong Kong 1842-1997 Lanham, Maryland: University Press of America Tarrant, Marie et al 2010 “Breastfeeding and Weaning Practices among Hong Kong Mothers: A Prospective Study.” BMC Pregnancy and Childbirth 10:27 Toussaint-Samat, Maguelonne 1992 A History of Food, translated from the French by Anthea Bell Cambridge, MA : Blackwell Reference Tuo, Guozhu 2000 “Retrospective and prospective of 50 years of Chinese dairy industry.” In Wang Huaibao , ed 50 years of Chinese dairy industry Ocean Press, pp 3–13 Veblen, T (1899) 1994 “The Theory of the Leisure Class.” In The Collected Works of Thorstein Veblen Vol Reprint, London: Routledge Wang 2008 “Public Diplomacy and the Rise of Chinese Soft Power.” Annal AAPSS 616, March, pp 258 Wang, Dong 2010 “Internationalizing Heritage: UNESCO and China’s Longmen Grottoes.” China Information 24(2) 123-147 Wiley, Andrea S 2007 “Transforming milk in a global economy” American Anthropologist 109(4): 666-677 2011 Re-imagining Milk: Cultural and Biological Perspectives New York: Routledge Wilk, Richard 1999 "Real Belizean Food: Building Local Identity in the Transnational Caribbean.” American Anthropologist 101(2): 244-255 Wong, Siuyi 1999 Guanggao wenhua shenghuo1945-1970 廣告文化生活 1945-1970 (Advertising, Culture and Daily Life 1945-1970) Hong Kong: Yuewen shudian 樂文書店 260 Wu, David 2001 “Chinese Cafe in Hong Kong.” In David Y.H Wu and Chee-Beng Tan, eds., Changing Chinese foodways in Asia, pp 71-80 Hong Kong : Chinese University Press Wu, Xinfa (吳信法), ed 1947 (1937).牛乳及其製品 (Cow Milk and Milk Products) Shanghai: Zhenzhong shuju Yang, Fang (楊芳) 2011 “Shengyan: Meishi rang shenghuo geng meihao” 盛宴：美食 讓生活更美好 (Symposium: Good food makes a better Life) Zhujiang Business 20, July Yang, ZC, et al 2005 "The Synergistic activity of Antibiotics combined with eight Traditional Chinese Medicines against two different strains of Staphylococcus Aureus." Colloids and Surfaces B, Biointerfaces 41 (2–3): 79–81 Yu 2012 “A Nation of Provinces” CKGSB Knowledge Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business At http://knowledge.ckgsb.edu.cn/detail/a-nation-of-provinces accessed on 24 April Yu, Ying-shih 1977 “Han” In K.C Chang, ed Food in Chinese Culture: Anthropological and Historical Perspectives New Haven: Yale University Press Yukio, Kumashiro 1971 “Recent developments in scholarship on the Ch’min Yaoshu in Japan and China” The Developing Economies 9(4):445 Zhang, Li.2001 Strangers in the City: Reconfigurations of Space, Power, and Social Networks within China's Floating Population Stanford: Stanford University Press Zhang, Lixiang, et al 2009 2008 Development Report on China Dairy Beijing: zhongguo jingji chubanshe 261 Zheng, Baohong (鄭寶鴻) 2003 Xiangjiang zhiwei : Xianggang de zaoqi yinshi chang suo 香江知味 : 香港的早期飲食場所 (Early Hong Kong eateries) Hong Kong: Xianggang dexue meishu bowuguan 香港大學美術博物館 Zhujiang Sanjiaozhou nongyezhi 珠江三角洲農業誌(Agricultural gazetteer of the Pearl River delta) 1976 Vols 1-6 Foshan: Fushan Diqu Geming Weiyuanhui Newspaper, Magazine Articles and Internet Sites Asssociated Press 2009 “Act against the Victims: China Tainted Milk Parents Warned Against Meeting.” 10 September BBC News 2004 “China 'Fake Milk' Scandal Deepens” At http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/2/hi/asia-pacific/3648583.stm 22 April accessed 16 May, 2012 Blanchard, Ben 2008 “Fed-up Chinese go online with biting Food Safety Jokes.” Reuters UK 18 September At http://uk.reuters.com/article/2008/09/18/oukin-uk-china-milk-internet-idUKPEK3 274720080918 accessed May Bristow, Michael 2008 “Bitter Taste over China Baby Milk.” BBC 17 September Buchan 2006 “Doing the Month.” Taipei Times 12 November, p 17 At http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/feat/archives/2006/11/12/2003336078 Accessed June, 2012 Burkitt 2012 “New Zealand Dairy Firm Fonterra Expands in China” WSJ April 12 Chan and Cheung 2008 Home-Delivered Milk (送上門的牛奶) U-beat Magazine At http://www.com.cuhk.edu.hk/ubeat_past/081287/milk.pdf accessed on June 5, 2012 China Daily 2010 “Finding Value in Garbage generated by Restaurants” December China Daily 2011 “The Evil of Recycled Cooking Oil” 20 September 262 Economist 2008 “Eating their words.” 23 October Economist 2008 “The Poison Spreads.” 25 September Edwards, Adam 2001 “Liquid Assets: Builder's Tea”, The Telegraph At http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/3289673/Liquid-assets-builders-tea.ht ml accessed 23 February 2012 Eimer, David 2012 “Hong Kong election: mainland 'locusts' fuel former colony's anger with the Chinese 'motherland'” The Telegraph 24 March At http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/china/9164982/Hong-Kongelection-mainland-locusts-fuel-former-colonys-anger-with-the-Chinese-mother land.html accessed 16 May, 2012 Elegant, S 2007 “China’s Me Generation.” Time At:http://www.time.com/ accessed 10 May 2012 Friesland Campina 2011 Black & White: a significant part of local culture for more than 70 years July At http://www.frieslandcampina.com/english/news-and-press/news/corporate-news/2 011-07-05-black-and-white-a-significant-part-of-local-culture-for-more-than-70-y ears.aspx assessed on 30 April, 2012 Gao, Lei (高蕾) 2008 “南信廣州：甜美西城有段古” (Guangzhou Nanxin: The Legend of Dessert in Xichen) 資 訊 時 報 zixunshibao At www.ce.cn/cysc/sp/soudian/200806/04/t20080604_15728997.shtml accessed 22 November, 2011 He, Ying-Si ( 何 穎 思 ) 2011 巴 氏 奶 為 何 保 質 期 有 長 有 短 ？ (Why can the On-Shelf period be Flexible?) Guangzhou Daily 16 August James, R 2009 A brief history of: Chinese Internet censorship Times, 18 March At http://www.time.com/time/world/article/0,8599,1885961,00.html accessed 10 May 2012 263 Li, Chao-Wen (李潮文) 2010 通脹難阻聖誕赴港掃貨 內地遊客或首超 2000 萬 (The inflation cannot stop the Christmas Shopping Trend The Number of Visitors from Mainland may exceed 20 million National Business Daily 24 December, pp 12 Lu, Bin and Zuo, Zhiying (盧斌, 左志英) 2009 三鹿:罪惡之門如何打開 (Sanlu: How did the Door of Evil Open) Nanfang Dushibao (南方都市報) 28 March, p.AA14 Ming Pao 2011 港現奶粉荒 卓悅：所剩無幾 (Formula Milk Out-of-Stock in Hong Kong) January, pp.B02 Ming Pao 2011.奶粉商自訂守則 衛署斥等於無做 (Health Department Blamed on Milk Powder Companies for Lack of Self-Regulations) 20 October, p.A08 Nanfang Dushibao (南方都市報) 2004 耄耋老人講述雙皮奶傳奇 (A Legend of Double-layered Milk Custard told by a Senior) 16 April At www.sdlib.com.cn:98/tpi_1/sysasp/news/detail.asp?databasename=%CB%B 3%B5%C2%D0%C5%CF%A2&sysid=918 accessed June 2012 Ou, Zhikui ( 歐 志 葵 ) 2011 “Nanbei ruyezhenying huopin ‘Xingobiao” zhongchuangshichang”(南北乳業陣營火拼“新國標”重創市場, The New Milk Standard in China hurt the market, creating war between milk corporations in the north and south) Nanfangribao A20 Quan Jie 2011 安琪兒金裝 DHA 高蛋白嬰幼兒營養米粉檢出維生素 A 不達標 (Angel-branded Golden Package DHA High-Protein Nutritious Rice Noodle tested to contain sub-standard Vitamin A) Guangzhou Daily 16 August V.V.B 2012 “Feeding China's Offspring Nestlé buys Pfizer Nutrition.” The Economist 23 April 264 Wen, Jingjing (翁靜晶) 2006 親子：從花塔餅到花占餅 (Child Tendering: From Childhood Medicine to Biscuits) Wenweipo 22 January At: http://paper.wenweipo.com, accessed on 10 June, 2012 Wu, Rui-Qing (吳瑞卿) 2010 美好生活(Good Life) Hong Kong Economic Journal 29 December, p P37 Yang, Fang 2011 盛宴：美食讓生活更美好 (Symposium: Gastronomy makes our Life Better) 順暢網—珠江商報 (Shunchangwang, Zhujiang Business) 20 July Zhongguoxinwenwang 2009 陳慧琳“生子不肥餐”打破代孕傳聞 (Kelly Chan broke the rumor of employing Surrogate mother by sharing the birth-giving diet recipe) 24 July 265 ... practices and the transformation of the meanings of healthy food, I endeavor to understand the changing meanings of health, culinary heritage, social status and modernity Although there is the globalization... products This points to the reason why I approach the issue of modernity by studying the interrelationship between health and culinary heritage through the ethnographic study of informants who were... thesis entitled: Milk and Modernity: Health and Culinary Heritage in South China Submitted by MAK, Sau Wa For the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Anthropology at the Chinese University of Hong