The Swedish Table

THE SWEDISH TABLE THE SWED ISH TABLE Helene Henderson COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA RUTLEDGE FOOD STYLING BY HELENE HENDERSON AND TREVOR ZIMMERMAN UNIVERSITY OF MINNESOTA PRESS MINNEAPOLIS-LONDON Copyright 2005 by Helene Henderson Color photography copyright 2005 by The Regents of the University of Minnesota All other photographs courtesy of the author Interior design by Frances Baca All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher Published by the University of Minnesota Press 111 Third Avenue South, Suite 290 Minneapolis, MN 55401-2520 http://www.upress.umn.edu Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Henderson, Helene The Swedish table / Helene Henderson; color photography by Lisa Rutledge; food styling by Helene Henderson and Trevor Zimmerman p cm ISBN 0-8166-4513-2 (hc/j : alk paper) Cookery, Swedish Sweden—Social life and customs, i Title TX722.S8H47 2005 641.59485—dc22 2004028038 Printed in the United States of America on acid-free paper The University of Minnesota is an equal-opportunity educator and employer 12 ii 10 09 08 07 06 05 10 i In memory of my grandmother Jenny and for my children, Celia, Casper, and Caden This page intentionally left blank Contents Acknowledgments xiii Introduction xv Swedish Holidays, Customs, and Celebrations FROM HEAVEN xix Hot and Chilled Soups Chilled Rose Hips Soup with Whipped Cream Nyponsoppa Chilled Blueberry Soup with Citrus-Infused Creme Fraiche Vanilla Rhubarb Soup Blabarssoppa Rabarbersoppa Yellow Pea Soup with Bacon, Cherry Tomatoes, and Parsley Artsoppa Vegetable Soup with Prosciutto-Filled "Gnocchi" Gwnsakssoppa med kroppkakor Nettle, Sorrel, and Baby Spinach Soup with Garlic Croutons Nasselsoppa Asparagus and Yukon Gold Potato Soup with Roasted Tomatoes Potato and Leek Soup with Fried Parsley Potatis och purjolokssoppa Red Beet Soup with Carrots and Balsamic Vinegar Rodbetssoppa Lentil Soup with Roasted Garlic and Baby New Potatoes Grilled Fish Soup with Saffron and Bacon Sweet Pea Soup Gronartssoppa Wild-Mushroom Soup Svampsoppa Sparrissoppa Linssoppa Fisksoppa med bacon 11 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Vlll FROM THE EARTH Potatoes Baby New Potatoes with Sea Salt and Dill Potatis med drier och salt 24 Grilled Baby New Potato Salad with French Green Beans and Mint Potatissallad med haricots verts 25 Layered Three-Cheese Russet and Sweet Potato Gratin 26 Potatisgratdng Potato Salad with Herb Vinaigrette, Olives, and Red Onions Potatissallad med oliver Tricolored Potato Hash with Bacon, Corn, and Roasted Red Pepper Pytt i panna 27 28 Jansson's Temptation with Smoked Salmon and Capers Janssons frestelse 29 Skillet-Roasted Potatoes with Fresh Herbs and Lemon 30 Hasselback's Potatoes Potato Pancakes Rdstekt potatis med drier och citron Hasselbackspotatis 31 Rdrivna potatispldttar Classic Mashed Potatoes Potatismos Potatoes Cooked in Cream and Dill Vegetarian Potato Lasagna 32 33 Dillstuvad potatis 34 Potatislasagne FROM THE FOREST AND THE FARM 35 Meat,Game, and Chicken Absolut Wild Game with Chanterelle Mushrooms Algstek med kantarellsds 40 Roasted Rack of Vension with Herb Vinaigrette Renkotletter med basilikasas 42 Beef Tenderloin with Sweet Corn Sauce 43 Filet mignon med majssds Juniper- and Lavender-Marinated Rack of Lamb Marinerade lammkotletter 44 Calf's Liver with Bacon and Caramelized Onion Lever stekt i skivor med lok och bacon 45 Roasted Garlic and Sun-Dried Tomato Stuffed Loin of Pork Oven-Baked Veal Roast with Parsley Vinaigrette Swedish Meatballs with Gravy Fldskfile med vitlok Kalvstek med persiljesds Kottbullar 46 48 49 Chicken with Prosciutto and Gruyere Cheese with Apple-Pomegranate Relish Kycklingmlader med ost, skinka och dppelchutney 51 Rosemary Chicken Skewers with Bacon-Wrapped Figs Rosmarinmarinerade kycklingspett medfikon 53 Chickenschnitzel with Caper Berries, Parsley, and Lemon 54 Kycklingschnitzel Pineapple-, Orange-, and Lime-Marinated Chicken Breast Ananasmarinerad kyckling 55 Roasted Chicken with Root Vegetables Kyckling i ugn 56 IX FROM THE SEA Fish and Shellfish Aquavit and Dill-Marinated Salmon Gravlax 61 Gravlax with Mustard-Dill Sauce and Fresh Baby Spinach Smoked-Salmon Tartar Gravlax med dillsas Gravlax tartar 62 63 Grilled Salmon Fillets with Tarragon and Pink-Peppercorn Sauce Grillad lax med rosepepparsds 64 Grilled Salmon Fillets with Herb Butter and Cucumber Salsa Grillad lax med gurksaha 65 Oven-Baked Whole Salmon with Dill, Rosemary, and Lemon Lax med rosmarin och citron 67 Marinated Arctic Char with Whitefish Roe Sauce Grilled Fish Kebabs with Tomato Salad 68 Fiskspett med tomatsallad Cabbage-Wrapped Sea Bass with Saffron Sauce Halibut with Fresh Herb Crust Fisk med lojromssas 69 Fiskkaldolmar 70 Hdlleflundra med b'rtskorpa 71 Fillet of Sole with Lemon Sauce and Baby Artichokes Fisk med citron och krondrtskocka 72 Fillet of Sole with Leeks, Tomatoes, and Olives 73 Grilled Lake Trout with Lemon and Mint Fisk med tomater och oliver Gddda med citron Cornflake-Crusted Crispy Fried Freshwater Perch Lake Trout Stuffed with Tomatoes and Garlic Shrimp with Orange, Tomato, and Tabasco Crayfish Feast Abborre med majsflingskorpa Abborre med tomater Rdkor med apelsinsds 77 78 Vegetables and Salads Spring Green Beans with Anchovies, Tomatoes, and Olives Haricots verts med oliver Sellerisallad White Asparagus Salad Roasted Baby Beet Salad 82 83 Sparrissallad 84 Lemongrass and Lime Cucumber Salad Gurksallad 85 Rodbetssallad 86 Dandelion Greens Salad with Gooseberries and Cilantro Vinaigrette Dandelion Greens with Bosc Pears and Shallots Apple-Jalapeiio Red Cabbage Salad Pizza Salad 75 76 Kraftor FROM THE GARDEN Celery Salad 74 Maskrossallad Kokta maskrosor med pawn Rodkdlsallad med dpplen 88 89 Pizzasallad Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Onions and Italian Sausage 87 90 Brysselkdl med Ib'k och korv 91 ... Finally, I thank my Swedish family—my mother, Harriet, and my aunt and uncle, Birgit and Harry Kempen—for teaching me about the magic of the forest, the lakes, and the farms of the Swedish heartland... country and enjoy distinguishing themselves from their Scandinavian neighbors (particularly the Finns!) They pay their taxes with pride (in kroner, not euros) They observe the formal rules of fika (socializing)... dances, quacks, and pratfalls it in Then it is time for the real show: the unveiling of the dinner table The Christmas ham? ?the julskinka—is the centerpiece, surrounded by aquavit (page 165) and