Food Culture in South America JOSE RAFAEL LOVERA Translated by Ainoa Larrauri Food Culture around the World Ken Albala, Series Editor GREENWOOD PRESS Westport, Connecticut - London Library of Congress Cataloging^in-Publication Data Lovera, Jose Rafael Food culture in South America / Jose Rafael Lovera ; translated by Ainoa Larrauri p cm — (Food culture around the world, ISSN 1545-2638) Includes bibliographical references and index ISBN 0-313-32752-1 (alk paper) Cookery, Latin American Cookery—South America Food habits—South America I Title II Series TX716.A1L68 2005 641.598—dc22 2005005501 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available Copyright © 2005 by Jose Rafael Lovera All rights reserved N o portion of this book may be reproduced, by any process or technique, without the express written consent of the publisher Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2005005501 ISBN: 0-313-32752-1 ISSN: 1545-2638 First published in 2005 Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, C T 06881 A n imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc www.greenwood.com Printed in the United States of America T h e paper used in this book complies with the Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National Information Standards Organization (Z39.48-1984) 10 Illustrations by J Susan Cole Stone T h e publisher has done its best to make sure the instructions and/or recipes in this book are correct However, users should apply judgment and experience when preparing recipes, especially parents and teachers working with young people T h e publisher accepts no responsibility for the outcome of any recipe included in this volume Contents Series Foreword by Ken Albala vii Acknowledgments ix Introduction xi Timeline xv Historical Overview Major Foods and Ingredients 39 Cooking 77 Typical Meals 93 Eating Out 127 Special Occasions 137 Diet and Health 153 Glossary 165 Resource Guide 167 Bibliography 175 Index 177 This page intentionally left blank Series Foreword The appearance of the Food Culture around the World series marks a definitive stage in the maturation of Food Studies as a discipline to reach a wider audience of students, general readers, and foodies alike In comprehensive interdisciplinary reference volumes, each on the food culture of a country or region for which information is most in demand, a remarkable team of experts from around the world offers a deeper understanding and appreciation of the role of food in shaping human culture for a whole new generation I am honored to have been associated with this project as series editor Each volume follows a series format, with a chronology of food-related dates and narrative chapters entitled Introduction, Historical Overview, Major Foods and Ingredients, Cooking, Typical Meals, Eating Out, Special Occasions, and Diet and Health Each also includes a glossary, bibliography, resource guide, and illustrations Finding or growing food has of course been the major preoccupation of our species throughout history, but how various peoples around the world learn to exploit their natural resources, come to esteem or shun specific foods and develop unique cuisines reveals much more about what it is to be human There is perhaps no better way to understand a culture, its values, preoccupations and fears, than by examining its attitudes toward food Food provides the daily sustenance around which families and communities bond It provides the material basis for rituals through which people celebrate the passage of life stages and their connection to divinity Vlll Series Foreword Food preferences also serve to separate individuals and groups from each other, and as one of the most powerful factors in the construction of identity, we physically, emotionally and spiritually become what we eat By studying the foodways of people different from ourselves we also grow to understand and tolerate the rich diversity of practices around the world What seems strange or frightening among other people becomes perfectly rational when set in context It is my hope that readers will gain from these volumes not only an aesthetic appreciation for the glories of the many culinary traditions described, but also ultimately a more profound respect for the peoples who devised them Whether it is eating New Year s dumplings in China, folding tamales with friends in Mexico or going out to a famous Michelin-starred restaurant in France, understanding these food traditions helps us to understand the people themselves As globalization proceeds apace in the twenty-first century it is also more important than ever to preserve unique local and regional traditions In many cases these books describe ways of eating that have already begun to disappear or have been seriously transformed by modernity To know how and why these losses occur today also enables us to decide what traditions, whether from our own heritage or that of others, we wish to keep alive These books are thus not only about the food and culture of peoples around the world, but also about ourselves and who we hope to be Ken Albala University of the Pacific Writing this book has been a challenge and a pleasure at the same time A challenge, because great efforts were necessary to compress the vast information represented by the food culture of more than 12 countries And a pleasure, because for years I have been dedicated to the study of this topic and because, as a South American, I am pleased to be given the opportunity to spread this culture in the United States Many people have made contributions to this book It would be impossible to mention them all, but I want to refer to some of them either by name or in a general way, to all of whom I express my most sincere gratitude Both the editor of this series, Ken Albala, and the acquisitions editor of Greenwood Press, Wendi Schnaufer, not only allowed me to be the author of this book, but also patiently read each of the chapters, making suggestions and encouraging me constantly throughout the work I particularly want to express my profound appreciation for the contribution of the numerous friends—experts on the gastronomy of the different South American countries—who have conversed with me during the journeys I have undertaken for a number of years to the different zones of the continent I must also express my gratitude to two persons who worked as my research assistants, namely Cordelia Arias Toledo and Marilyn Sivira, who were also involved in the transcription of the manuscript Similarly, I need to mention Ainoa Larrauri, whom I hired to translate the manuscript—a task she performed to my satisfaction I had fruitful long talks with her aimed at guaranteeing X Acknowledgments that the English version accurately expressed my ideas and the information I had gathered I also want to thank Graciela Valery de Velez, among other people, for help with recipes I hope I have fulfilled the objective of spreading the South American food culture, while I assume the entire responsibility for any possible defects of my work Introduction Giving a detailed account of South American food culture is a challenging task This continent comprises more than 10 countries, its inhabitants not all speak the same language, and the food traditions of the different societies vary in some ways People's diets are not only the result of certain traditions—cultural heritage, cooking techniques, and so on—but they are also strongly related to the geographical environment The vast South American continent can roughly be divided into four large zones, taking into consideration geographical and cultural characteristics: the Andes, the Llanos and Pampas, Amazonia, and the coastal areas The Andean region starts from western Venezuela and runs in a southerly direction along Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina, down to Tierra del Fuego The Andes can be considered South America's backbone They feature a great number of mountains, plateaus, hillsides, and valleys Countless rivers run from their highlands, while perennial snows cover their summits Almost all climates can be found in this elongated region, from hot to cold It was the cradle of the only urban cultures that existed in the region in pre-Hispanic times and, traditionally, the place where the largest number of inhabitants would settle Headquarters of the most developed agricultural systems in ancient South America, the Andes are the birthplace of the potato, which is a staple food of the continent, and the place where corn and beans were grown—two key foods that were never totally displaced despite the transculturation process that took place with the arrival of the Europeans ... locating typical South American dishes and as a simplified form of what Introduction xin could be called a gastronomical map of South America Gaining a clear picture of South American food culture. .. Whether it is eating New Year s dumplings in China, folding tamales with friends in Mexico or going out to a famous Michelin-starred restaurant in France, understanding these food traditions helps... of spreading the South American food culture, while I assume the entire responsibility for any possible defects of my work Introduction Giving a detailed account of South American food culture