Surfactants in personal care products and decorative cosmetics

DK3394_C000.fm Page i Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM SURFACTANTS IN PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS AND DECORATIVE COSMETICS THIRD EDITION DK3394_C000.fm Page ii Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM SURFACTANT SCIENCE SERIES FOUNDING EDITOR MARTIN J SCHICK 1918–1998 SERIES EDITOR ARTHUR T HUBBARD Santa Barbara Science Project Santa Barbara, California ADVISORY BOARD DANIEL BLANKSCHTEIN Department of Chemical Engineering Massachusetts Institute of Technology Cambridge, Massachusetts ERIC W KALER Department of Chemical Engineering University of Delaware Newark, Delaware S KARABORNI Shell International Petroleum Company Limited London, England CLARENCE MILLER Chemical and Biomolecular Engineering Department Rice University Houston, Texas LISA B QUENCER The Dow Chemical Company Midland, Michigan DON RUBINGH The Procter & Gamble Company Cincinnati, Ohio JOHN F SCAMEHORN Institute for Applied Surfactant Research University of Oklahoma Norman, Oklahoma BEREND SMIT Shell International Oil Products B.V Amsterdam, The Netherlands P SOMASUNDARAN Henry Krumb School of Mines Columbia University New York, New York JOHN TEXTER Strider Research Corporation Rochester, New York DK3394_C000.fm Page iii Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM Nonionic Surfactants, edited by Martin J Schick (see also Volumes 19, 23, and 60) Solvent Properties of Surfactant Solutions, edited by Kozo Shinoda (see Volume 55) Surfactant Biodegradation, R D Swisher (see Volume 18) Cationic Surfactants, edited by Eric Jungermann (see also Volumes 34, 37, and 53) Detergency: Theory and Test Methods (in three parts), edited by W G Cutler and R C Davis (see also Volume 20) Emulsions and Emulsion Technology (in three parts), edited by Kenneth J Lissant Anionic Surfactants (in two parts), edited by Warner M Linfield (see Volume 56) Anionic Surfactants: Chemical Analysis, edited by John Cross Stabilization of Colloidal Dispersions by Polymer Adsorption, Tatsuo Sato and Richard Ruch 10 Anionic Surfactants: Biochemistry, Toxicology, Dermatology, edited by Christian Gloxhuber (see Volume 43) 11 Anionic Surfactants: Physical Chemistry of Surfactant Action, edited by E H Lucassen-Reynders 12 Amphoteric Surfactants, edited by B R Bluestein and Clifford L Hilton (see Volume 59) 13 Demulsification: Industrial Applications, Kenneth J Lissant 14 Surfactants in Textile Processing, Arved Datyner 15 Electrical Phenomena at Interfaces: Fundamentals, Measurements, and Applications, edited by Ayao Kitahara and Akira Watanabe 16 Surfactants in Cosmetics, edited by Martin M Rieger (see Volume 68) 17 Interfacial Phenomena: Equilibrium and Dynamic Effects, Clarence A Miller and P Neogi 18 Surfactant Biodegradation: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, R D Swisher 19 Nonionic Surfactants: Chemical Analysis, edited by John Cross 20 Detergency: Theory and Technology, edited by W Gale Cutler and Erik Kissa 21 Interfacial Phenomena in Apolar Media, edited by Hans-Friedrich Eicke and Geoffrey D Parfitt 22 Surfactant Solutions: New Methods of Investigation, edited by Raoul Zana 23 Nonionic Surfactants: Physical Chemistry, edited by Martin J Schick 24 Microemulsion Systems, edited by Henri L Rosano and Marc Clausse DK3394_C000.fm Page iv Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM 25 Biosurfactants and Biotechnology, edited by Naim Kosaric, W L Cairns, and Neil C C Gray 26 Surfactants in Emerging Technologies, edited by Milton J Rosen 27 Reagents in Mineral Technology, edited by P Somasundaran and Brij M Moudgil 28 Surfactants in Chemical/Process Engineering, edited by Darsh T Wasan, Martin E Ginn, and Dinesh O Shah 29 Thin Liquid Films, edited by I B Ivanov 30 Microemulsions and Related Systems: Formulation, Solvency, and Physical Properties, edited by Maurice Bourrel and Robert S Schechter 31 Crystallization and Polymorphism of Fats and Fatty Acids, edited by Nissim Garti and Kiyotaka Sato 32 Interfacial Phenomena in Coal Technology, edited by Gregory D Botsaris and Yuli M Glazman 33 Surfactant-Based Separation Processes, edited by John F Scamehorn and Jeffrey H Harwell 34 Cationic Surfactants: Organic Chemistry, edited by James M Richmond 35 Alkylene Oxides and Their Polymers, F E Bailey, Jr., and Joseph V Koleske 36 Interfacial Phenomena in Petroleum Recovery, edited by Norman R Morrow 37 Cationic Surfactants: Physical Chemistry, edited by Donn N Rubingh and Paul M Holland 38 Kinetics and Catalysis in Microheterogeneous Systems, edited by M Grätzel and K Kalyanasundaram 39 Interfacial Phenomena in Biological Systems, edited by Max Bender 40 Analysis of Surfactants, Thomas M Schmitt (see Volume 96) 41 Light Scattering by Liquid Surfaces and Complementary Techniques, edited by Dominique Langevin 42 Polymeric Surfactants, Irja Piirma 43 Anionic Surfactants: Biochemistry, Toxicology, Dermatology Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Christian Gloxhuber and Klaus Künstler 44 Organized Solutions: Surfactants in Science and Technology, edited by Stig E Friberg and Björn Lindman 45 Defoaming: Theory and Industrial Applications, edited by P R Garrett 46 Mixed Surfactant Systems, edited by Keizo Ogino and Masahiko Abe 47 Coagulation and Flocculation: Theory and Applications, edited by Bohuslav Dobiás DK3394_C000.fm Page v Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM 48 Biosurfactants: Production Properties Applications, edited by Naim Kosaric 49 Wettability, edited by John C Berg 50 Fluorinated Surfactants: Synthesis Properties Applications, Erik Kissa 51 Surface and Colloid Chemistry in Advanced Ceramics Processing, edited by Robert J Pugh and Lennart Bergström 52 Technological Applications of Dispersions, edited by Robert B McKay 53 Cationic Surfactants: Analytical and Biological Evaluation, edited by John Cross and Edward J Singer 54 Surfactants in Agrochemicals, Tharwat F Tadros 55 Solubilization in Surfactant Aggregates, edited by Sherril D Christian and John F Scamehorn 56 Anionic Surfactants: Organic Chemistry, edited by Helmut W Stache 57 Foams: Theory, Measurements, and Applications, edited by Robert K Prud’homme and Saad A Khan 58 The Preparation of Dispersions in Liquids, H N Stein 59 Amphoteric Surfactants: Second Edition, edited by Eric G Lomax 60 Nonionic Surfactants: Polyoxyalkylene Block Copolymers, edited by Vaughn M Nace 61 Emulsions and Emulsion Stability, edited by Johan Sjöblom 62 Vesicles, edited by Morton Rosoff 63 Applied Surface Thermodynamics, edited by A W Neumann and Jan K Spelt 64 Surfactants in Solution, edited by Arun K Chattopadhyay and K L Mittal 65 Detergents in the Environment, edited by Milan Johann Schwuger 66 Industrial Applications of Microemulsions, edited by Conxita Solans and Hironobu Kunieda 67 Liquid Detergents, edited by Kuo-Yann Lai 68 Surfactants in Cosmetics: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Martin M Rieger and Linda D Rhein 69 Enzymes in Detergency, edited by Jan H van Ee, Onno Misset, and Erik J Baas 70 Structure-Performance Relationships in Surfactants, edited by Kunio Esumi and Minoru Ueno 71 Powdered Detergents, edited by Michael S Showell 72 Nonionic Surfactants: Organic Chemistry, edited by Nico M van Os 73 Anionic Surfactants: Analytical Chemistry, Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by John Cross DK3394_C000.fm Page vi Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM 74 Novel Surfactants: Preparation, Applications, and Biodegradability, edited by Krister Holmberg 75 Biopolymers at Interfaces, edited by Martin Malmsten 76 Electrical Phenomena at Interfaces: Fundamentals, Measurements, and Applications, Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Hiroyuki Ohshima and Kunio Furusawa 77 Polymer-Surfactant Systems, edited by Jan C T Kwak 78 Surfaces of Nanoparticles and Porous Materials, edited by James A Schwarz and Cristian I Contescu 79 Surface Chemistry and Electrochemistry of Membranes, edited by Torben Smith Sørensen 80 Interfacial Phenomena in Chromatography, edited by Emile Pefferkorn 81 Solid–Liquid Dispersions, Bohuslav Dobiás, Xueping Qiu, and Wolfgang von Rybinski 82 Handbook of Detergents, editor in chief: Uri Zoller Part A: Properties, edited by Guy Broze 83 Modern Characterization Methods of Surfactant Systems, edited by Bernard P Binks 84 Dispersions: Characterization, Testing, and Measurement, Erik Kissa 85 Interfacial Forces and Fields: Theory and Applications, edited by Jyh-Ping Hsu 86 Silicone Surfactants, edited by Randal M Hill 87 Surface Characterization Methods: Principles, Techniques, and Applications, edited by Andrew J Milling 88 Interfacial Dynamics, edited by Nikola Kallay 89 Computational Methods in Surface and Colloid Science, edited by Malgorzata Borówko 90 Adsorption on Silica Surfaces, edited by Eugène Papirer 91 Nonionic Surfactants: Alkyl Polyglucosides, edited by Dieter Balzer and Harald Lüders 92 Fine Particles: Synthesis, Characterization, and Mechanisms of Growth, edited by Tadao Sugimoto 93 Thermal Behavior of Dispersed Systems, edited by Nissim Garti 94 Surface Characteristics of Fibers and Textiles, edited by Christopher M Pastore and Paul Kiekens 95 Liquid Interfaces in Chemical, Biological, and Pharmaceutical Applications, edited by Alexander G Volkov 96 Analysis of Surfactants: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, Thomas M Schmitt 97 Fluorinated Surfactants and Repellents: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, Erik Kissa 98 Detergency of Specialty Surfactants, edited by Floyd E Friedli DK3394_C000.fm Page vii Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM 99 Physical Chemistry of Polyelectrolytes, edited by Tsetska Radeva 100 Reactions and Synthesis in Surfactant Systems, edited by John Texter 101 Protein-Based Surfactants: Synthesis, Physicochemical Properties, and Applications, edited by Ifendu A Nnanna and Jiding Xia 102 Chemical Properties of Material Surfaces, Marek Kosmulski 103 Oxide Surfaces, edited by James A Wingrave 104 Polymers in Particulate Systems: Properties and Applications, edited by Vincent A Hackley, P Somasundaran, and Jennifer A Lewis 105 Colloid and Surface Properties of Clays and Related Minerals, Rossman F Giese and Carel J van Oss 106 Interfacial Electrokinetics and Electrophoresis, edited by Ángel V Delgado 107 Adsorption: Theory, Modeling, and Analysis, edited by József Tóth 108 Interfacial Applications in Environmental Engineering, edited by Mark A Keane 109 Adsorption and Aggregation of Surfactants in Solution, edited by K L Mittal and Dinesh O Shah 110 Biopolymers at Interfaces: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Martin Malmsten 111 Biomolecular Films: Design, Function, and Applications, edited by James F Rusling 112 Structure–Performance Relationships in Surfactants: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Kunio Esumi and Minoru Ueno 113 Liquid Interfacial Systems: Oscillations and Instability, Rudolph V Birikh,Vladimir A Briskman, Manuel G Velarde, and Jean-Claude Legros 114 Novel Surfactants: Preparation, Applications, and Biodegradability: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Krister Holmberg 115 Colloidal Polymers: Synthesis and Characterization, edited by Abdelhamid Elaissari 116 Colloidal Biomolecules, Biomaterials, and Biomedical Applications, edited by Abdelhamid Elaissari 117 Gemini Surfactants: Synthesis, Interfacial and Solution-Phase Behavior, and Applications, edited by Raoul Zana and Jiding Xia 118 Colloidal Science of Flotation, Anh V Nguyen and Hans Joachim Schulze 119 Surface and Interfacial Tension: Measurement, Theory, and Applications, edited by Stanley Hartland DK3394_C000.fm Page viii Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM 120 Microporous Media: Synthesis, Properties, and Modeling, Freddy Romm 121 Handbook of Detergents, editor in chief: Uri Zoller Part B: Environmental Impact, edited by Uri Zoller 122 Luminous Chemical Vapor Deposition and Interface Engineering, HirotsuguYasuda 123 Handbook of Detergents, editor in chief: Uri Zoller Part C: Analysis, edited by Heinrich Waldhoff and Rüdiger Spilker 124 Mixed Surfactant Systems: Second Edition, Revised and Expanded, edited by Masahiko Abe and John F Scamehorn 125 Dynamics of Surfactant Self-Assemblies: Micelles, Microemulsions, Vesicles and Lyotropic Phases, edited by Raoul Zana 126 Coagulation and Flocculation: Second Edition, edited by Hansjoachim Stechemesser and Bohulav Dobiás 127 Bicontinuous Liquid Crystals, edited by Matthew L Lynch and Patrick T Spicer 128 Handbook of Detergents, editor in chief: Uri Zoller Part D: Formulation, edited by Michael S Showell 129 Liquid Detergents: Second Edition, edited by Kuo-Yann Lai 130 Finely Dispersed Particles: Micro-, Nano-, and Atto-Engineering, edited by Aleksandar M Spasic and Jyh-Ping Hsu 131 Colloidal Silica: Fundamentals and Applications, edited by Horacio E Bergna and William O Roberts 132 Emulsions and Emulsion Stability, Second Edition, edited by Johan Sjöblom 133 Micellar Catalysis, Mohammad Niyaz Khan 134 Molecular and Colloidal Electro-Optics, Stoyl P Stoylov and Maria V Stoimenova 135 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics, Third Edition, edited by Linda D Rhein, Mitchell Schlossman, Anthony O'Lenick, and P Somasundaran DK3394_C000.fm Page ix Friday, October 13, 2006 10:22 PM SURFACTANTS IN PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS AND DECORATIVE COSMETICS THIRD EDITION Linda D Rhein Fairleigh Dickinson University Teaneck, New Jersey, U.S.A Mitchell Schlossman Kobo Products, Inc South Plainfield, New Jersey, U.S.A Anthony O'Lenick Siltech LLC Dacula, Georgia, U.S.A P Somasundaran Columbia University New York, New York, U.S.A Boca Raton London New York CRC Press is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business DK3394_C023.fm Page 467 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:16 PM Branched Esters as Oil Phases in Pigmented Products 467 23.3.2.6 2-Ethyl Hexanoic Esters The resulting propoxylated products were then reacted with stearic acid using a tin catalyst CH3´(CH2)16CH2O´(CH2´CH´O)n H + R´C´OH ∂ CH3 stearyl propoxylate ∂∂ O 2-ethyl hexanoic acid CH3´(CH2)16CH2O´(CH2´CH´O)n´C´R + H2O ∂ ∂∂ O CH3 stearyl-ppg-2-ethyl hexanoate water TABLE 23.11 Analysis of Propoxylated Stearyl 2-Ethyl Hexonate 2EH-O Color (Gardner) Appearance 50°C Acid value Hydroxyl value Saponification value Titer point (°C) 2EH-A Clear 2.6 7.6 141.3 41 2EH-B Clear 3.2 7.2 129.0 31 2EH-C Clear 4.1 6.4 116.0 29 Clear 3.8 7.7 106.7 27 23.3.2.7 Conclusions The propoxylation of stearyl alcohol prior to esterification results in the lowering of the melting point for all the compounds studied This confirmed the effect of branching upon the melting point Melting points of the alcohol were dropped by over 20°C by adding 2.2 mol of propylene oxide to the stearyl alcohol Likewise, significant melting point reductions were encountered when esters were evaluated The current study added up to 2.2 mol of propylene oxide to the hydrophobe The melting points of the propoxylate and all derived DK3394_C023.fm Page 468 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:16 PM 468 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics esters were still dropping at the 2.2 mol level (relative to the lower levels) This was a surprise, since it was felt that at the 2.2 mol level the effectiveness of the oxide on liquidity would begin to drop essentially to zero It is interesting to note that at 2.2 mol the percentage of propylene oxide added is 32.4% by weight It was also a surprise that the esterification of the stearyl propoxylate resulted in only a very modest increase in melting point, relative to the starting alcohol propoxylate A very significant increase in molecular weight occurred, but a marginal change in the melting point was noticed The 2-ethyl hexyl esters were less efficient in lowering the melting point of the resulting esters than the isostearate This was a surprise, since the 2-ethyl hexanoic acid is both lower in molecular weight (C8) and more branched than the C-18-branched isostearate The propoxylated stearyl alcohol isostearate compounds had the lowest melting point of any of the homologous series studied We believe that the reaction of fatty alcohols with propylene oxide, then subsequent derivization, will allow for the synthesis of a new class of compounds with very desirable properties on the skin 23.4 CONCLUSION Guerbet chemistry offers a unique set of materials that can be used to prepare highly effective oil phases for use in pigmented products Despite the fact that the basic chemistry has been known for 100 years, the ability to use these materials in high-performance products is a relatively new phenomenon Likewise, the introduction of propoxylated groups into esters offers an economic approach to obtain liquid high molecular weight products for use in pigmented products REFERENCES 10 11 Guerbet, M., C.R Acad Sci Paris, 128, 1002 (1899) Veibel, S and Nielsen, J., Tetrahedron, 23, 1723–1733 (1967) Cannizzaro, S., Ann Chem Liebigs, 88, 129, (1853) Geissman, T.A., Organic Reactions, Vol II, Wiley, New York (1944), p 94 O’Lenick, Jr., A.J and Bilbo, R.E., Guerbet Alcohols, Versatile Hydrophobes, SCCS, April 1987 Henkel, K., Fatty Alcohols, Raw Materials, Process and Applications, Henkel KGaA (1982), p 163 Stein, W., Method Chim., 5, 563–573 (1975) German Patent 538,388, October 1931 Morrison, R and Boyd, R., Organic Chemistry, 3rd ed (1973), p 582 O’Lenick, A.J., Surfactants Chemistry and Properties, Allured Publishing, Carol Stream, IL (1999), pp 28–30 Sunwoo, C and Wade, W.H., J Dispersion Sci Technol., 13, 491 (1992) DK3394_Index Page 469 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM Index A Acid-catalyzed hydrolysis, 450 Acids, melting points of, 459 Adhesion, conditioner systems, 138–139 Adsorption in conditioning, 139–141 Alcohols, melting points, 458 Alkyl dimethicone concealer products containing, 397 makeup products containing, 397 mascara products containing, 397 pigmented products, 389–404 with cetyl dimethicone, 396–397 chemistry, 391–392 commercial products, 396–403 ethnic hair glosser/extra conditioner, 400 eye shadow, long-wearing, 403 formulations, 398–403 group opposites, 390–391 hydrosilylation reaction, 391–392 lipstick, long-wearing creamy, 401 patents, 394–396 physical properties, 392–394 presun sugar scrub, 399 SPF 15 cream foundation formulation, 398 sunscreens, with high SPF, 402 powder products containing, 397 Alkyl silicone properties, 393 Amphipaths, lipids as, 193–194 Amphiphilic polymer additives, microemulsions, 165–166 Anhydrous system, dihydroxyacetone, 328–329 Animal-derived triglycerides, 413 Anionics, nail care surfactants, 270 Aqueous system, dihydroxyacetone, 328–329 Avobenzone, sunscreen, 293 B Barrier function, lipid structure, stratum corneum lipids, 32–38 Base-catalyzed hydrolysis, 450 Base cream, formulation for, 360 Basement membrane markers, 83 Branched esters, 455–468 Guerbet alcohols, derivatives, 456–462 chemistry, 456–457 compounds, 461 formulations, 462 Guerbet acids, 458 Guerbet alcohol properties, 457–458 Guerbet esters, 458–459 Guerbet patents, 461–462 process, 462 raw materials, 457 solubility, 459–461 propoxylated esters, 462–468 melting point, 463 raw materials, 464 reaction, 463 C Cancer, skin, 278–281 See also Sunscreens Carbon atoms, esters, 460 Carbon distribution, polyester pigment incorporation, 374–375 Carbon number calculation, 413 Castor oil, polyester pigment incorporation, 374–381 carbon distribution, 374–375 castor succinate diester, 378–379 castor succinate polyester, 377 chemical structure, 376 polyesters, 376–381 polymer capping, 380–381 source, 374 Castor polyesters, pigment incorporation, 374 Castor succinate diester, 378–379 Castor succinate polyester, 377, 381 Cationics, nail care surfactants, 270 Cellulosics, nail care surfactants, 269–270 Central location testing for consumer research, 100 Ceramide, 206 Cetyl dimethicone, alkyl dimethicone, pigmented products, 396–397 Chromameter, erythema induced by soaps, 77 Cinoxate, sunscreen, 293 Classes of consumer research, 96–101 Cleansers, 137–148 See also under specific cleanser 469 DK3394_Index Page 470 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM 470 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics adhesion, 138–139 adsorption in, 139–141 clinical trial designs, 78–82 mildness of cleansers, 78–82 moisturization, 78 contact angle, 138–139 deposition, 143–145 detergency, 138–139 DLVO theory, 143–145 electric forces, 139–141 irritancy, 81 kinetic effects, 143–145 macroscopy, 145–147 oil, incorporation of, 142–143 one-shot cleaners/conditioners, 141–142 Coalescence, emulsions, 158 Cohesion, surfactants in nail polish, 264–265 Color cosmetics, 302–303, 349 See also Pigment; Tinting Color measurement techniques, 45–56 Color of skin, 76–78 image analysis, 77–78 measurement, 77 Color value, pigments, 117–118 Competitive analysis for consumer research, 102–103 Complex esters, 420–429 diisostearyl malate, 427–428 dipentaerythrityltetrahydroxystearate/ tetraisostearate, 422–423 pentaerythrityl tetaisostearate, 425–426 pigmented products, 410–413 carbon number, 412–413 chemistry, 410 INCI nomenclature, 412 polyols, 410–411 triglycerides, 412 types of triglycerides, 413 tri C12-13 alkyl citrate, 424–425 tridecyl trimellitate, 428–429 triisostearyl citrate, 427 trimethylolpropane triisostearate, 423–424 trimethylolptopane triethylhexanonate, 429 trioctyldodecyl citrate, 420–422 Conditioner systems, 137–148 adhesion, 138–139 conditioning adsorption in, 139–141 electric forces, 139–141 contact angle, 138–139 deposition, 143–145 detergency, 138–139 DLVO theory, 143–145 kinetic effects, 143–145 macroscopy, 145–147 oil, incorporation of, 142–143 one-shot cleaners/conditioners, 141–142 Conditioning hand, body lotion, 257 Consumer research/development, 95–106 business analysis, 102–103 central location testing, 100 classes of consumer research, 96–101 competitive analysis, 102–103 demographic trends, 101 in-home placement surveys, 100 mail intercepts, 100 mail surveys, 100 marketing trends, 101 merchandising/retail trends, 101 online surveys, 100 outsourcing, market research function, 103–104 primary research, 97–100 attitude studies, components, 99 qualitative research, 97–98 quantitative research, 98–100 usage studies, components, 99 product trends, 101 quantitative research, survey methods, 100 secondary research, 100–101 steps in, 101 telephone surveys, 100 Contact angle, conditioner systems, 138–139 Cosmetic powder, patents, 443–445 Cost control, pigments, 118–119 Cream foundation, 387 Crystal structure, dihydroxyacetone, 327–328 Cuticle conditioners with nutral pH, 258 surfactants, 257 Cuticle removers, 258 surfactants, 257–258 Cytokine/growth factor mRNA expression, 83 D De-agglomeration, particle, pigments, 114–115 De-aggregation, particle, pigments, 114–115 Demographic trends, consumer research, 101 Determination of emulsion type, 154 DHA See Dihydroxyacetone Dihydroxyacetone, 325–340 analytical methods, 330 anhydrous system, behavior in, 328–329 aqueous system, behavior in, 328–329 buffers, 334 crystal structure, 327–328 DK3394_Index Page 471 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM Index emollients, 335 emulsifers, 335 fragrance oils, 336 handling, 329 ingredient selection, 335–337 moisturizers, 335 molecular structure, 327–328 nitrogen, compounds containing, 336 pH, 334 photoprotection, 332 preservatives, 336 properties, 327–330 regulatory status, 333 self-tanning formulations, 333–337 skin tanning, mechanism of, 330–332 storage, 329 sunscreens, 336 temperature, 334 thickeners, 335 tinting, 336–337 tonality, 337 Diisostearyl malate, 427–428 Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, 430–431 Dioctadecanyl didecyltetradecanoate, 452 Dioctadecanyl dioctadecyltetradecanoate, 453 Dioxybenzone, sunscreen, 293 Dipentaerythrityltetrahydroxystearate/ tetraisostearate, 422–423 Dispersion of pigments, 109–120 benefits, 116–119 color value, 117–118 cost control, 118–119 de-agglomeration, 114–115 dispersion stabilization, 116 particle de-aggregation, 114–115 pigment wetting, 114 process, 114–116 properties, 110–114 ready-to-use, 116–117 Dispersion stabilization, pigments, 116 Double emulsions, 167–171 defined, 150 preparation, 168 stability evaluation, 168–170 Drying triglycerides, plant derived, 414 Dyes, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 3445 E Elasticity measurement, 67–70 age, 70 body site, 70 moisturizer effects, 67–69 471 Electric forces, conditioning, 139–141 Electrical instruments, correlations between, 64 Electrical methods, skin water content estimation, 62–64 corneometer 825, 62–63 Nova DPM 9003, 63 skicon, 63–64 Electromagnetic spectrum, 290–292 radiant energy, 291 sunscreens, 290–292 Emollient lipstick, 384–385 Emollients, dihydroxyacetone, 335 Emulsifiers, dihydroxyacetone, 335 Emulsifying agents, liquid foundation, 245–250 Emulsions, 122–124, 149–176 double emulsions, 167–171 defined, 150 preparation, 168 stability evaluation, 168–170 macroemulsions, 151–158 coalescence, 158 conductivity measurement, 154 defined, 150 destabilization mechanisms, 157–158 determination of emulsion type, 154 dyes, 154 engulfment, 158 flocculation, 158 hydrophile-lipophile balance, 151–153 microemulsions, contrasted, 167 microscopy, 154 mixing with water or oil, 154 Ostwald ripening, 158 phase diagrams, 155–156 sedimentation/creaming, 157–158 self-diffusion constants, 154 stability of emulsions, 156–157 types of, 153–154 microemulsions, 159–166 additives, effect of, 163–166 amphiphilic polymer additives, 165–166 defined, 150 equilibrium studies, 162 homopolymer additives, 165 kinetic studies, 162–163 nonpolymeric additives, 163–164 polymeric additives, 165 miniemulsions, 159 defined, 150 types of, 150 Encapsulation by liposomes, 124–125 by nanoparticles, 124–125 Engulfment, emulsions, 158 DK3394_Index Page 472 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM 472 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics Ensulizole, sunscreen, 293 Epidermis, 58–59 stratum corneum lipids, 6–11 Erythema induced by soaps, using chromameter, 77 Esters branched, 455–468 Guerbet alcohols, derivatives, 456–462 propoxylated esters, 462–468 carbon atoms, 460–461 pigmented products, 405–446 alkyl group, 408–409 carbon number, 412–413 chemistry, 407–406, 410 complex esters, 410–413, 420–429 concealer in tube, 434–435 cosmetic extruded eyeliner, 432–433 cosmetic powder, 443–445 diisostearyl malate, 427–428 dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, 430–431 dipentaerythrityltetrahydroxystearate/ tetraisostearate, 422–423 fatty acid nomenclature, 407–408 formulations, 431–437 gloss in tube, 434 high-gloss lipstick, 437 INCI nomenclature, 412 iodine value, 409 isocetyl behenate, 417–418 isostearyl behenate, 419–420 lash-thickening mascara, 435 lipstick, 439–443 liquid makeup, 433–434 mascara, 438–439 moisturizing lipstick (cranberry), 436 octyldodecyl erucate, 418–419 oleyl erucate, 416–417 patents, 438–445 pentaerythrityl tetaisostearate, 425–426 pigment extenders, 445 polyesters, 413–415, 429–431 polyhydroxystearic acid, 429–430 polyols, 410–411 pressed face powder (tan), 431 pressed powder blush (terracotta), 431–432 simple esters, 407–409, 416–420 tri C 12-13 alkyl citrate, 424–425 tridecyl trimellitate, 428–429 triglycerides, 412 triisostearyl citrate, 427 trimethylolpropane triisostearate, 423–424 trimethylolptopane triethylhexanonate, 429 trioctyldodecyl citrate, 420–422 types of triglycerides, 413 propoxylated, 462–468 Exfoliating cuticle scrub, 260 surfactants, 261 Extinction coefficient, sunscreen, 295 Eye makeup, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 353 F Fatty acids, 449 chain behavior, 206 common names, 408 Film-forming properties, sunscreens, 297–300 Filters, ultraviolet not approved in U.S., 294 sunscreens, 296–297 Flocculation, emulsions, 158 Foot soaks, surfactants, 263 Foot treatment, 254–261 Formulation for base cream, 360 Fragrance oils, dihydroxyacetone, 336 Function of skin, 3–44 barrier function, lipid structure and, 32–38 epidermal layers, lipid composition, 13 epidermis, 6–11 function of, 14–19 high-angle spacing in stratum corneum, 27 high-angle x-ray diffraction, 26–31 lipid fluidization, 36–38 lipid macromolecular structure, 31–32 macromolecular structure, 19–24 mammalian epidermal barrier function, lipid mediation, 18 permeability constants, reconstituted stratum corneum, 23 polymorphism, 24–32 small-angle x-ray diffraction studies, 24–26 thermal behavior, 27 Function of stratum corneum lipids, 14–19 G Gloss lipstick, 384–386 Growth factor mRNA expression, 83 Guerbet alcohols, derivatives, 456–462 chemistry, 456–457 compounds, 461 formulations, 462 Guerbet acids, 458 Guerbet alcohol properties, 457–458 DK3394_Index Page 473 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM Index Guerbet esters, 458–459 Guerbet patents, 461–462 process, 462 raw materials, 457 solubility, 459–461 H Hair care, sunscreens, 305–306 Hand cream, surfactants, 254–256 Hand lotion, surfactants, 256–257 Hand soaks, surfactants, 263 Hand wash test, 79 High-angle spacing in stratum corneum, 27 High-angle x-ray diffraction, stratum corneum lipids, 26–31 HLB See Hydrophile-lipophile balance Homopolymer additives, microemulsions, 165 Homosalate, sunscreen, 293 Hydration, 59–67 Hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 341–356 chemistry, 343–345 dyes, 344, 3445 eye makeup, 353 formulations, 349 inorganic pigments, 344 lip gloss, 351 lipstick, 349–351 makeup, 351–352 mineral oil, 345–353 mineral waxes, 348–353 Newtonian behavior, 347 organic pigments, 344–345 patents, 353 petrolatum, 345–353 petroleum products, 343–344 pigments, 344 rheology, 346–348 waxes, 345–353 Hydrolysis-resistant esters, 447–454 acid-catalyzed hydrolysis, 450 analytical hydrolysis, 451 analytical methodology, 453–454 base-catalyzed hydrolysis, 450 chemistry, 448–449 commercial products, 452–453 formulation properties, 453 hydrolysis, 449–453 nonhydrolyzable esters, 451–452 saponification value method, 453–454 triglycerides, 450 Hydrophile-lipophile balance, 151–153 emulsions, 151–153 473 Hydrophilic surfactants, 300 Hydrosilylation reaction, alkyl dimethicone, pigmented products, 391–392 I In-home placement surveys for consumer research, 100 In vitro assessments, 82–83 basement membrane markers, 83 cytokine/growth factor mRNA expression, 83 keratins, 83 lipids, 83 Infrared spectroscopy, 66–67 lipids, 194 Inorganic pigments approved for color cosmetic use, 345 hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 344 Irritancy, soap, cleansing bar, 81 Isocetyl behenate, 417–418 Isostearyl behenate, 419–420 K Keratins, 83 Kinetic effects, conditioner systems, 143–145 Kligman leg regression test, 79 L Lamp characteristics, sunscreens, 310–311 Leg regression test, 79 Lip care, sunscreens, 304–305 Lip gloss, 352 hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 351 Lip gloss stick, 382–383 Lip products, surfactants in, 237–2472 Lipid composition, epidermal layers, 13 Lipid fluidization, stratum corneum lipids, 36–38 Lipid macromolecular structure, 31–32 Lipid structure, 83, 189–210 amphipaths, lipids as, 193–194 infrared spectroscopy, 194 octadecanoic acid, 195–196 phytosphingosine ceramides, 200–201 skin barrier function, 190–191 sphingosine ceramides, 196–200 stratum corneum lipid composition in, 192–193 lipid organization, 205–207 lipid organization in, 191–192 DK3394_Index Page 474 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM 474 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics ternary phytosphingosine ceramide systems, 204–205 ternary sphingosine ceramide systems, 202–203 Liposomes, encapsulation by, 124–125 Lipstick, 350–351 hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 349–351 patents, 439–443 Liquid facial makeup, 352 Liquid foundation, surfactants in, 243–250 emulsifying agents, 245–250 oil-in-water foundations, 245–247 surfactant choice, 244 water-in-oil foundations, 247–250 wetting agents, 244–245 Luteins, 225–227 Lycopene, 218–223 bioavailability of, 219 M Macroemulsions, 151–158 coalescence, 158 conductivity measurement, 154 defined, 150 destabilization mechanisms, 157–158 determination of emulsion type, 154 dyes, 154 engulfment, 158 flocculation, 158 hydrophile-lipophile balance, 151–153 microemulsions contrasted, 167 distinction, 167 microscopy, 154 mixing with water or oil, 154 Ostwald ripening, 158 phase diagrams, 155–156 sedimentation/creaming, 157–158 self-diffusion constants, 154 stability of emulsions, 156–157 types of, 153–154 Macromolecular structure, lipids, 19–24 Macroscopy, conditioner systems, 145–147 Magnetic resonance spectroscopy, 66 Mail intercepts for consumer research, 100 Mail surveys for consumer research, 100 Makeup See also under specific type of makeup hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 351–352 Mammalian epidermal barrier function, lipid mediation, 18 Marketing trends, consumer research, 101 Mascara, patents, 438–439 Meadowestolide, 357–370 application procedure, 359–360 chemistry, 358–359 instrumentation, 360 moisturization, 359–360 protocol control, 359 skin care application, imaging, 363–365 subjects, 359–360 test formulations, 359 tissue hydration studies, 360 transepidermal water loss, 360 water binding activity in vitro, 361 in vivo, 361–363 Meadowlactone, 357–370 application procedure, 359–360 chemistry, 358–359 instrumentation, 360 moisturization, 359–360 protocol control, 359 skin care application, imaging, 366–369 subjects, 359–360 test formulations, 359 tissue hydration studies, 360 transepidermal water loss, 360 Measurement techniques, noninvasive, cutaneous effects, 57–94 color of skin, 76–78 image analysis, 77–78 measurement, 77 electrical instruments, correlations between, 64 epidermis, 58–59 hand wash test, 79 hydration, 59–67 Kligman leg regression test, 79 mini-regression, 79 moisturization, 59–67 clinical-grade reductions, 64–66 corneometer 825, 62–63 dry skin, 59–61 instrument correlations, 64 Nova DPM 9003, 63 short-term measurements, 64–66 skicon, 63–64 skin water content estimation, electrical methods, 62–64 transepidermal water loss, 61–62 patch testing, 79 repeated washing, 79 skin cleansers, clinical trial designs, 78–82 mildness of cleansers, 78–82 moisturization, 78 skin elasticity measurement, 67–70 DK3394_Index Page 475 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM Index age, 70 body site, 70 moisturizer effects, 67–69 skin gloss measurement, 75 skin surface analysis, 70–74 image analysis, 74 image analysis in vivo, 73–74 microtopography, 71–73 squamometry, 74 skin surface sebum, 75–76 spectroscopic water measurement content, 66–67 infrared spectroscopy, 66–67 magnetic resonance spectroscopy, 66 stressors, 79 test methods, 79 in vitro assessments, 82–83 basement membrane markers, 83 cytokine/growth factor mRNA expression, 83 keratins, 83 lipids, 83 weather, 79 Meradimate, sunscreen, 293 Merchandising/retail trends, consumer research, 101 Micelle charge, surfactant, 177–188 Micelles, swollen, 216–217 Microemulsions, 122–124, 159–166 additives, effect of, 163–166 amphiphilic polymer additives, 165–166 defined, 150 equilibrium studies, 162 homopolymer additives, 165 kinetic studies, 162–163 macroemulsions, distinction, 167 modified, 211–234 nonpolymeric additives, 163–164 polymeric additives, 165 Microtopography, surface analysis, 71–73 Mildness of cleansers, 78–82 Mineral oil, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 345–353 Mineral waxes, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 348–353 Mini-regression, 79 Miniemulsions, 159 defined, 150 Modified microemulsions, 211–234 luteins, 225–227 lycopene, 218–223 bioavailability of, 219 nonsoluble nutraceuticals, solubilization, 217–227 475 phytosterols, 223–225 swollen micelles, 216–217 vitamins, 227–229 water binding, 229–230 Moisturization, 59–67, 78 clinical-grade reductions, 64–66 dry skin, 59–61 instrument correlations, 64 short-term measurements, 64–66 skin water content estimation, electrical methods, 62–64 corneometer 825, 62–63 Nova DPM 9003, 63 skicon, 63–64 transepidermal water loss, 61–62 Moisturizer effect assessment methods, 79 vacuum levels, 69 Moisturizers, dihydroxyacetone, 335 mRNA expression, growth factor, 83 N Nail care, surfactants for, 251–276 adhesion, 264 anionics, 270 cationics, 270 cellulosics, 269–270 cleansing, 253–254 cuticle conditioners, 257 cuticle removers, 257–258 exfoliating cuticle scrub, 261 foot treatment, 254–261 hand cream, 254–256 hand lotion, 256–257 hand treatment, 254–261 market for, 252 moisturizers, 257 monochromatic pigment grinds, 266–270 nail cream, 254–256 nonionics, 270 pigment volume concentration, 271–272 polymer concentration, viscosity of watersoluble systems, 270–271 practical applications, 265 professional salon products, 261–263 foot soaks, 263 hand soaks, 263 protective colloids, surfactants as, 270 rheological additives solvent-borne nail polish, 267–269 waterborne systems, 269 rheology, 265–266 DK3394_Index Page 476 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM 476 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics specialty medical products, 259–260 surfactants in nail polish cohesion, 264–265 penetration, 264–265 spreading, 264–265 waterborne nail polish, 272 wetting, 264–265 Nanoparticles cosmetic industry, 128–130 encapsulation by, 124–125 Newtonian behavior, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 347 Nitrogen, compounds containing, dihydroxyacetone, 336 Nonhydrolyzable esters, 451–452 Noninvasive measurement techniques, cutaneous effects, 57–94 color of skin, 76–78 image analysis, 77–78 measurement, 77 electrical instruments, correlations between, 64 epidermis, 58–59 hand wash test, 79 hydration, 59–67 Kligman leg regression test, 79 mini-regression, 79 moisturization, 59–67 clinical-grade reductions, 64–66 corneometer 825, 62–63 dry skin, 59–61 instrument correlations, 64 Nova DPM 9003, 63 short-term measurements, 64–66 skicon, 63–64 skin water content estimation, electrical methods, 62–64 transepidermal water loss, 61–62 patch testing, 79 repeated washing, 79 skin cleansers, clinical trial designs, 78–82 mildness of cleansers, 78–82 moisturization, 78 skin elasticity measurement, 67–70 age, 70 body site, 70 moisturizer effects, 67–69 skin gloss measurement, 75 skin surface analysis, 70–74 image analysis, 74 image analysis in vivo, 73–74 microtopography, 71–73 squamometry, 74 skin surface sebum, 75–76 spectroscopic water measurement content, 66–67 infrared spectroscopy, 66–67 magnetic resonance spectroscopy, 66 stressors, 79 test methods, 79 in vitro assessments, 82–83 basement membrane markers, 83 cytokine/growth factor mRNA expression, 83 keratins, 83 lipids, 83 weather, 79 Nonionics, surfactants, 270 Nonsoluble nutraceuticals, solubilization, 217–227 Nutraceuticals, nonsoluble, solubilization, 217–227 O Ocinoxate, sunscreen, 293 Octadecanoic acid, 195–196 Octocrylene, sunscreen, 293 Octyldodecyl erucate, 418–419 Oil composition, carbon number calculation, 412 Oil-in-water foundation, 245–248 Oleyl erucate, 416–417 One-shot cleaners/conditioners, 141–142 Online surveys for consumer research, 100 Organic pigments, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 344–345 Organizations with sun protection policies, 289–290 Origin of stratum corneum lipids, 14–19 Ostwald ripening, emulsions, 158 Outsourcing, market research function, 103–104 Oxybenzone, sunscreen, 293 P PABA See Paraminobenzoic acid Padimate-O, sunscreen, 293 Paraminobenzoic acid, sunscreen, 293 Particle de-agglomeration, pigments, 114–115 Particle de-aggregation, pigments, 114–115 Paste concentrate, 267 Patch testing, 79 PELEMOL 362924 INCI, 452 PELEMOL 362932 INCI, 453 Penetration, surfactants in nail polish, 264–265 Pentaerythrityl tetaisostearate, 425–426 DK3394_Index Page 477 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM Index Permeability constants, reconstituted stratum corneum, 23 Personal care products See under specific product Petrolatum, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 347–348 Petroleum products, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 343–344 Photocarcinogenesis, 279–281 See also Sunscreens sunscreen, 279–281 Photoprotection, dihydroxyacetone, 332 Phytosphingosine ceramides, 200–201 Phytosterols, 223–225 Pigment dispersions, 109–120 benefits, 116–119 color value, 117–118 cost control, 118–119 de-agglomeration, 114–115 dispersion stabilization, 116 particle de-aggregation, 114–115 pigment wetting, 114 process, 114–116 properties, 110–114 ready-to-use, 116–117 Pigment extenders, patents, 445 Pigment volume concentration, nail products, 271–272 Pigmented products, alkyl dimethicone in, 389–404 with cetyl dimethicone, 396–397 chemistry, 391–392 commercial products, 396–403 ethnic hair glosser/extra conditioner, 400 eye shadow, long-wearing, 403 formulations, 398–403 group opposites, 390–391 hydrosilylation reaction, 391–392 lipstick, long-wearing creamy, 401 patents, 394–396 physical properties, 392–394 presun sugar scrub, 399 SPF 15 cream foundation formulation, 398 sunscreens, with high SPF, 402 Plant-derived triglycerides, 414, 450 Polyester pigment incorporation, 371–388 functionalization of backbone, 381 formulations, 382–387 polyesters, 372–374 Polyesters, 413–415, 429–431 castor oil carbon distribution, 374–375 castor succinate diester, 378–379 castor succinate polyester, 377 477 chemical structure, 376 polyesters, 376–381 polymer capping, 380–381 source, 374 dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, 430–431 formulations, 382–387 pigment incorporation, 371–388 castor oil, 374–381 castor polyesters, 374 functionalization of backbone, 381 polyesters, 372–374 polyhydroxystearic acid, 429–430 Polyhydroxystearic acid, 429–430 Polymer capping, 380–381 Polymer concentration, viscosity of watersoluble systems, 270–271 Polymer surfactant interactions, 130–134 Polymeric additives, microemulsions, 165 Polymorphism, stratum corneum lipids, 24–32 Polyols, 410–411 Primary consumer research, 97–100 attitude studies, components, 99 qualitative research, 97–98 quantitative research, 98–100 usage studies, components, 99 Product trends, consumer research, 101 Propoxylated alcohol, analysis of, 465 Propoxylated esters, 462–468 2-ethyl hexanoic esters, 467 experimental, 465 isostearate esters, 466 melting point, 463 propoxylation of stearyl alcohol, 464–465 raw materials, 464 reaction, 463 stearate esters, 465–466 Propoxylated stearyl 2-ethyl hexonate, analysis of, 467 Propoxylated stearyl isostearate, analysis of, 466 Propoxylated stearyl stearate, analysis of, 466 Protective colloids, surfactants as, 270 Q Quantitative consumer research, survey methods, 100 R Radiant energy, electromagnetic spectrum, 291 Radiation, ultraviolet, biological action of, 281–287 DK3394_Index Page 478 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM 478 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics Ready-to-use pigments, 116–117 Reconstituted stratum corneum, permeability constants, 23 Repeated washing, 79 Research/development, consumer research, 95–106 business analysis, 102–103 central location testing, 100 classes of consumer research, 96–101 competitive analysis, 102–103 demographic trends, 101 in-home placement surveys, 100 mail intercepts, 100 mail surveys, 100 marketing trends, 101 merchandising/retail trends, 101 online surveys, 100 outsourcing, market research function, 103–104 primary research, 97–100 attitude studies, components, 99 qualitative research, 97–98 quantitative research, 98–100 usage studies, components, 99 product trends, 101 quantitative research, survey methods, 100 secondary research, 100–101 steps in, 101 telephone surveys, 100 Rheological additives solvent-borne nail polish, 267–269 waterborne systems, 269 Rheology, hydrocarbons, pigmented products, 346–348 Ricinus communis See Castor oil S Saponification, 453–454 Secondary consumer research, 100–101 steps in, 101 Self-tanning formulations, dihydroxyacetone, 333–337 Simple esters, 416–420 isocetyl behenate, 417–418 isostearyl behenate, 419–420 octyldodecyl erucate, 418–419 oleyl erucate, 416–417 pigmented products, 407–409 alkyl group, 408–409 fatty acid nomenclature, 407–408 iodine value, 409 Skin barrier function, lipid, 190–191 Skin cancer, 278–281 See also Sunscreens sunscreens, 278–281 Skin gloss measurement, 75 Skin structure, 3–44 barrier function, lipid structure and, 32–38 epidermal layers, lipid composition, 13 epidermis, 6–11 high-angle spacing in stratum corneum, 27 high-angle x-ray diffraction, 26–31 lipid fluidization, stratum corneum, 36–38 lipid macromolecular structure, 19–24, 31–32 mammalian epidermal barrier function, lipid mediation, 18 permeability constants, reconstituted stratum corneum, 23 polymorphism, stratum corneum lipid structure, 24–32 small-angle x-ray diffraction studies, 24–26 stratum corneum, 11–14 structure, 14 stratum corneum lipids, origin and function of, 14–19 thermal behavior, 27 Skin surface sebum, 75–76 Skin tanning, mechanism of, dihydroxyacetone, 330–332 Skin water content estimation, electrical methods, 62–64 corneometer 825, 62–63 Nova DPM 9003, 63 skicon, 63–64 Small-angle x-ray diffraction studies, stratum corneum lipids, 24–26 Soaps erythema induced by, 77 irritancy, 81 Solid lip gloss, 382–383 Specialty medical products, 259–260 Spectroscopic water measurement content, 66–67 infrared spectroscopy, 66–67 magnetic resonance spectroscopy, 66 SPF products, sunscreens, 311–312 SPF testing, sunscreens, 306–309 Sphingosine ceramides, 196–200 Squamometry, surface analysis, 74 Stability of emulsions, 156–157 Static SPF method, sunscreens, 307–309 Stratum corneum lipids, 3–44 barrier function, 32–38 epidermal layers, 13 epidermis, 6–11 function of, 14–19 high-angle spacing in stratum corneum, 27 DK3394_Index Page 479 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM Index high-angle x-ray diffraction, 26–31 lipid composition in, 192–193 lipid fluidization, 36–38 lipid macromolecular structure, 31–32 lipid organization, 191–192, 205–207 macromolecular structure, 19–24 mammalian epidermal barrier function, lipid mediation, 18 origin, 14–19 permeability constants, reconstituted stratum corneum, 23 polymorphism, 24–32 small-angle x-ray diffraction studies, 24–26 structure, 14 thermal behavior, 27 Structure of stratum corneum lipids, 14 Sulisobenzone, sunscreen, 293 Sun damage, sunscreens, 278–281 Sunscreens, 277–322 alkyl dimethicone, pigmented products, 402 avobenzone, 293 cinoxate, 293 color cosmetics, 302–303 dihydroxyacetone, 336 dioxybenzone, 293 drug stability, 311 efficacy testing, 306–311 electromagnetic spectrum, 290–292 ensulizole, 293 epidemiology studies, 279–281 extinction coefficient, 295 film-forming properties, 297–300 formula development, 297–306 formula types, 300–302 hair care, 305–306 homosalate, 293 lamp characteristics, 310–311 launching SPF product, 311–312 lip care, 304–305 meradimate, 293 ocinoxate, 293 octocrylene, 293 organizations with sun protection policies, 289–290 oxybenzone, 293 padimate-O, 293 paraminobenzoic acid, 293 photocarcinogenesis, 279–281 selection criteria, 292–297 skin cancer, 278–281 skin care, 303–304 SPF testing, 306–309 static SPF method, 307–309 sulisobenzone, 293 479 sun damage, 278–281 titanium dioxide, 293 trolamine salicylate, 293 ultraviolet exposure, 279–281 ultraviolet filter, 296–297 ultraviolet measurements/methods, 309–310 ultraviolet radiation, biological action of, 281–287 water-resistant SPF method, 309 zinc oxide, 293 Surface analysis, 70–74 image analysis, 74 in vivo, 73–74 microtopography, 71–73 squamometry, 74 Surfactant micelle charge, 177–188 zeta potential, 182 Surfactants, 121–136 adhesion, 264 adverse effects, 124 anionics, 270 cationics, 270 cellulosics, 269–270 cleansing, 253–254 cohesion, 264–265 cuticle conditioners, 257 cuticle removers, 257–258 emulsifying agents, 245–250 emulsions, 122–124 exfoliating cuticle scrub, 261 foot soaks, 263 foot treatment, 254–261 hand cream, 254–256 hand lotion, 256–257 hand soaks, 263 hand treatment, 254–261 in lip products, 237–2472 liposomes, encapsulation by, 124–125 in liquid foundation, 243–250 market for, 252 microemulsions, 122–124 moisturizers, 257 monochromatic pigment grinds, 266–270 for nail care, 251–276 nail cream, 254–256 nail treatment, 254–261 nanoparticles cosmetic industry, 128–130 encapsulation by, 124–125 nonionics, 270 oil-in-water foundations, 245–247 penetration, 264–265 pigment volume concentration, 271–272 DK3394_Index Page 480 Monday, October 9, 2006 4:59 PM 480 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics polymer concentration, viscosity of watersoluble systems, 270–271 polymer surfactant interactions, 130–134 practical applications, 265 professional salon products, 261–263 protective colloids, surfactants as, 270 rheology, 265–266 solvent-borne nail polish, 267–269 specialty medical products, 259–260 spreading, 264–265 surfactant choice, 244 water-in-oil foundations, 247–250 waterborne nail polish, 272 waterborne systems, 269 wetting, 264–265 wetting agents, 244–245 Swollen micelles, 216–217 T Telephone surveys for consumer research, 100 Ternary phytosphingosine ceramide systems, 204–205 Ternary sphingosine ceramide systems, 202–203 Thermal behavior, stratum corneum lipids, 27 Tinting, dihydroxyacetone, 336–337 Titanium dioxide, sunscreen, 293 Tonality, dihydroxyacetone, 337 Transepidermal water loss, 61–62 Tri C 12-13 alkyl citrate, 424–425 Tridecyl trimellitate, 428–429 Triglycerides, 412, 450 animal-derived, 413 plant-derived, 414 types of, 413 Triisostearyl citrate, 427 Trimethylolpropane triisostearate, 423–424 Trimethylolptopane triethylhexanonate, 429 Trioctyldodecyl citrate, 420–422 Trolamine salicylate, sunscreen, 293 U Ultimate ultraviolet filter, 296–297 Ultraviolet exposure, 279–281 See also Sunscreens Ultraviolet filters, not approved in U.S., 294 Ultraviolet measurements/methods, sunscreens, 309–310 V Vitamins, 227–229 W Water binding, microemulsions, 229–230 Water-in-oil foundation, 250 Water-in-silicone foundation, 249 Water-resistant mascara, 385–386 Water-resistant SPF method, sunscreens, 309 Waterborne nail polish, 272 Wetting agents, liquid foundation, 244–245 Wetting of pigment, 114 White monochromate pigment solution, 268 Z Zeta potential surface charge density, 181–183 surfactant micelles, 182 Zinc oxide, sunscreen, 293 ... trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe Library of Congress Cataloging -in- Publication Data Surfactants in personal care products and decorative cosmetics. .. secretion and decreased mRNA levels for loricrin, profilaggrin, and involucrin in DK3394_C001.fm Page 10 Thursday, October 12, 2006 1:51 PM 10 Surfactants in Personal Care Products and Decorative Cosmetics. .. chemical engineering, material science, and mineral engineering department in 1992 and 1995 He was inducted in 1985 into the National Academy of Engineering, the highest professional distinction