Sustainability in fashion and apparels challenges and solutions

[ 62 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels Challenges and Solutions ] Số trang: 239 trang Ngôn ngữ: English ------------------------------------------------------------ This book addresses the pathway to reach sustainability in fashion business and apparel sectors. It contains various research papers originally contributed by different authors from various organizations who are all working towards the eco-friendly manufacturing of apparel products, and provides approaches, techniques, alternative procedures/sustainable routes to develop sustainable apparel in a more environmentally friendly manner for the future. The research papers discussed mainly focus on the various challenges put forth by the apparel industry with respect to environmentally friendly product manufacturing and also provides solutions to achieve the same through different principles and approaches which fulfil the production, user and disposal ecological considerations. The book will be really useful for academicians, industry personnel and to textile and apparel students and scholars who wish to explore their knowledge and innovations in the field of sustainable apparel product manufacturing and processes. This textbook addresses the pathway to reach sustainability in fashion business and apparel sectors. This book contains various research papers originally contributed by different authors from various organizations who are all working towards the eco-friendly manufacturing of apparel products. This textbook provides approaches, techniques, alternative procedures/sustainable routes to develop sustainable apparel in a more environmentally friendly manner for the future. The research papers discussed in this book mainly focus on the various challenges put forth by the apparel industry with respect to environmentally friendly product manufacturing and also provides solutions to achieve the same through different principles and approaches which fulfil the production, user and disposal ecological considerations. The book will be really useful for academicians, industry personnel and to textile and apparel students and scholars who wish to explore their knowledge and innovations in the field of sustainable apparel product manufacturing and processes. Table of Contents • Preface • CHAPTER 1: Eco-testing of textiles • CHAPTER 2: A study of natural dyeing in sustainable product development • CHAPTER 3: Application of vetiver extract on cotton fabric for developing healthcare products • CHAPTER 4: Bio-polymers derived from renewable plant sources and application in apparels • CHAPTER 5: Design and development of eco-friendly nebuliser face mask • CHAPTER 6: Development of green composites • CHAPTER 7: Textile recycling creating a new industry • CHAPTER 8: The rise of sustainability in textile manufacturing life cycle • CHAPTER 9: Sustainable fashion a review • CHAPTER 10: Bio-processing of textiles • CHAPTER 11: Development of UV protective garment finished with herbal leaf extract • CHAPTER 12: A sustainable step towards the application of micro-encapsulated activated charcoal for anti-microbial finish • CHAPTER 13: Enzymatic desizing of hemp cotton fabrics • CHAPTER 14: Effect of neem finishing on water hyacinth/cotton blend non-woven fabrics • CHAPTER 15: Eco-fashion handbags • CHAPTER 16: A study on chemical treated modal fabrics • CHAPTER 17: An optimisation of knitting parametre on anti-microbial treatment by using Box-Behnken design • CHAPTER 18: Development of new fibre Girardinia Heterophylla • CHAPTER 19: Assessment of anti-microbial activity on jute cotton blended fabric with aloe vera finish • CHAPTER 20: Review on eco-friendly fibres in fibre-reinforced concrete • CHAPTER 21: Study on silk fabric using some selected natural dyes • CHAPTER 22: Investigation of anti-fungal activity on cotton fabric using natural herbs • CHAPTER 23: Study on polyacrylic acid treated silk • CHAPTER 24: Eco-friendly technology options available for textile industry • CHAPTER 25: Study on comfort properties of apparels produced from bamboo/micromodal blended air vortex yarns • Index

SUSTAINABILITY INFASHION AND APPARELS

Challenges and Solutions

Dr P Kandhavadivu

Published by Woodhead Publishing India Pvt Ltd.Woodhead Publishing India Pvt Ltd.,

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First published 2017, Woodhead Publishing India Pvt Ltd.© Woodhead Publishing India Pvt Ltd., 2017

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Preface ix

K Amutha and K Saranya

2 A study of natural dyeing in sustainable

N Nanthagopal and M D Jothilinkam

3 Application of vetiver extract on cotton fabric for

S Ampritha and Dr V Krishnaveni

4 Bio-polymers derived from renewable plant

R Sukanyadevi, Vaishnavi Muralidharan and C Kavya

5 Design and development of eco-friendly nebuliser

K Amutha and R Priyanka

Dr S Grace Annapoorani, S.Yamuna Devi and D Sheebamercy

7 Textile recycling – creating a new industry 49

Pratibha Sharma

8 The rise of sustainability in textile manufacturing

D Gopalakrishnan

vi Contents

Mrs E Devaki, Ms M Suganya and Ms S Sreelakshmi

G Abinaya Parameswari and M V Reenna Priya

11 Development of UV protective garment finished

C Mohan Bharathi, M R Deepika, J K Gowtham, R Suganyaa, R Godson Silas and J Sathish Kumar

12 A sustainable step towards the application of micro-encapsulated activated charcoal for

R Pragadheeswari and K Sangeetha

13 Enzymatic desizing of hemp cotton fabrics 107

R Umamaheswariand Dr S Amsamani

14 Effect of neem finishing on water hyacinth/cotton

S Punitha, Dr K Sangeetha and M Bhuvaneshwari

M Ghousia Amrin and G Bagyalakshmi

16 A study on chemical treated modal fabrics 131

K Gnanapriya and J Jeyakodi Moses

17 An optimisation of knitting parametre on

anti-microbial treatment by using Box-Behnken design 141

Dr K M Patchiyappan and Dr B Senthilkumar

18 Development of new fibre Girardinia Heterophylla 151

T Vijayalakshmi and Dr G Manonmani

E Devaki, K Sangeetha and S Karthika

21 Study on silk fabric using some selected

J Jeyakodi Moses and P Sathish

22 Investigation of anti-fungal activity on cotton

M Sumithra and M Lalitha

23 Study on polyacrylic acid treated silk 189

J Jeyakodi Moses and E Saraswathi

24 Eco-friendly technology options available for textile

industry 199

Dr K Sangeetha, T Abirami and A Keerthana Sri

25 Study on comfort properties of apparels produced

M Sriraj, J Srinivasan and G Ramakrishnan

Index 223

Ecological consideration in the apparel manufacturing industry is a nent feature that attracts industrialists, public, government and many NGOs In this aspect; it becomes imperative to provide alternative solutions to pre-serve the ecological wealth and natural resources.

perma-Sustainable fashion, also called eco fashion, is a part of the growing sign philosophy and trend of sustainability, the goal of which is to create a system which can be supported indefinitely in terms of human impact on the environment and social responsibility Sustainable clothing refers to fabrics derived from eco-friendly resources, such as sustainability grown fiber crops or recycled materials It also refers to how these fabrics are made Ethical Fashion is an umbrella term to describe ethical fashion design, production, retail, and purchasing It covers a range of issues such as working conditions, exploitation, fair trade, sustainable production, the environment, and animal welfare.

de-While environmentalism used to be manifest through a percentage of sales being donated to a charitable cause, fashion designers have recently adopted the idea of sustainability, using more environmentally-friendly mate-rials and methods in clothing production Designers say that they are trying to incorporate these sustainable practices into modern clothing, rather than pro-ducing “dusty, hippy-looking clothes Sustainable fashion is typically more expensive than clothing produced by conventional methods.

A growing range of factors distinguish ethical processes, alternative energy, and low-impact dyes in manufacturing However, to the extent that fashion consumers make an effort to choose an ethical wardrobe, they usually do so by trying to pick an eco-friendly fabric.

Three criteria are primarily used to extinguish the creation of eco-friendly from ordinary fabrics:

1 the use of fewer toxic chemicals,2 the use of less land or water, and3 The reduction of greenhouse gases.

Some fabrics perform better than others across all three of these ria However, in many cases, one fabric is more preferable according to one of the criteria, but less preferable according to another, making for compli-cated choices even without factoring in differences in fabric qualities, cost,

crite-x Preface

labor conditions, or carbon footprint of product transportation The future of sustainable fashion lies in the hands of all the stakeholders within the in-dustry In order to improve the current situation, innovation and collabora-tion is needed Everyone active in the industry should take its responsibility The fashion sector should become more transparent A good start is to share knowledge and best practices.

The main objective of this conference is to create an opportunity to enrich knowledge on sustainability in fashion and apparels by providing a platform to interact with industrial experts, product manufacturers, retailers, design-ers, academicians, researchers, and students The conference also provides an opportunity for sharing knowledge through paper presentation by industrial experts, academicians, research scholar, designers and students from various parts of India This conference will be adopting a case study method to iden-tify and communicate practical challenges and solutions to apparel manufac-turers The specific challenges in apparel industry related to sustainability are to be highlighted with respect to product value, quality, and aesthetics.

Dr M ParthibanDr M R SrikrishnanDr P Kandhavadivu

Eco-testing of textiles

K Amutha and K Saranya

Department of Textiles and Apparel Design, Bharathiar University, Coimbatore, IndiaE-mail: saranyakandhasamy25@gmail.com

Abstract: Textile industry is considered as the most ecologically harmful industry in the world The eco-problems in textile industry occur during production processes

and are carried forward up to the finished product In the production processes like bleaching and dyeing, the effluent generated contains toxic substances that swell up into our eco-system During the production process, pollution control is as vital as making a product free from the toxic effect Petroleum-based products are harmful to the environment In order to safeguard our environment from these effects, an inte-grated pollution control approach is needed Today in Europe, ecological and toxic-ity factors are gaining prime importance in the business of fabric and apparel trade In 1992, Germany banned the use of metallic components in all consumer articles, which contained nickel Thereafter followed restrictions on pentachlorophenol (PCP) and azo dyes, which liberated banned amines Pollutants, allergens and carcinogens are now being severely restricted in the manufacturing of consumer goods sold all over Europe Therefore, a proper selection of processes is essential in confirming to standards demanded by the customer.

Keywords: eco-system, banned chemicals, testing factors

1.1 Introduction

The textile industry has been condemned as being one of the world’s worst offenders in terms of pollution because it requires a great amount of two components: Chemicals: There are as many as 2,000 different chem-icals used in the textile industry (1), from dyes to transfer agents, and Water: It is a finite resource that is quickly becoming scarce, and is used at every step of the process both to convert the chemicals used during each

step and to wash them out before beginning the next step (2) The water

becomes full of chemical additives and is then expelled as wastewater, which in turn pollutes the environment (3) By the effluent’s heat, by its increased pH, and because it’s saturated with dyes, de-foamers, bleaches

2 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

detergents, optical brighteners, equalizers and many other chemicals used during the process (4).

1.1.1 Importance of eco-testing of textiles

• To ensure safety of the product (outer and inner garments, furnishing fabrics, etc.).

• To maintain green consumerism.• To ensure consumer health and safety.• For safer environment.

1.2 Eco-testing

Eco-testing are tested for certain parameters for• Heavy metals

• Azo dyes• Formaldehyde• pH value• Pesticides• Ozone depletion• Phthalates

• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)• Flame retardant

Heavy metals are metallic elements that have relatively high-density and are toxic in low concentrations They are considered as carcinogenic and found in dyes as metal complex dyes in finishes Chromium-based dye of mordant black-II is highly toxic and it is used commonly for dyeing of black colour Though metal and metal complex dyes are hazardous in nature, they are not prohibited since certain colours like turquoise, green, blue, violet and blue shades cannot be achieved without these dyes components Many National and European standards do not permit these dyes, but many voluntary or-ganizations check these parameters for their eco-labelling and certification Ecolabel and Oeko-Tex standard 100 establish limits on permitted levels of pesticides, heavy metals, and toxic substances in both raw materials and products as listed in Table 1.1.

Eco-testing of textiles 3

Determination of heavy metals

There are several methods to determine the heavy metals in textile material.• Thin-layer chromatography (TLC)

• UV-VIS spectrometry

• Atomic absorption spectrometry (AAS)

• Inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry (ICP-OES)

• Inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometers (ICP-MS)

ICP-MS is a good instrument for measuring ultra-trace metals from many materials in a few minutes.

Table 1.1 Permissible limits of heavy metal content in baby wearLimits for baby wear (mg/kg)

wearWith skincontact

1 Diazotization of a primary amine and

2 Coupling of the diazonium salt with a phenol or aromatic amine with free ortho or para position or components having active methylene groups such as acetoacetanilide, pyrazolones, etc.

4 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

There are about 27 amines which are banned Some of them are Benzidine, 2-Napthylamine, 4-Amino biphenyl, Amino azotoluene,

1.2.3 Formaldehyde

It is a gas It is present in nature in small quantities For example, human blood has traces of formaldehyde and so do apples However in larger quantities, formaldehyde can cause skin allergies or skin irritations In textiles, formaldehyde has traditionally been used in anti-shrinking treat-ments, resin finishes for wrinkle/crease-free properties and dye fixing agents It may be tested as free formaldehyde or released formaldehyde Legal limits are quite high, though buyers ask for lower limits for their purchases.

Possible hazards

• Exposure to low-levels of formaldehyde does not present a health concern but exposure to high-levels of formaldehyde can cause ad-verse health effects including significant sensory irritation, breathing difficulties and allergic contact dermatitis.

• Temporary skin irritations: Skin rashes can result due to exposure of formaldehyde.

• Allergic reactions: People have suffered dermatitis after wearing clothing or using cosmetic products that contained high-levels of formaldehyde.

• Irritation of the nose, eyes, and other adverse effects Breathing dehyde vapour can result in irritation of nerves in the eyes and nose.• Cancer: International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC)

formal-currently classifies formaldehyde as being “carcinogenic” to humans.

Determination of formaldehyde in textile materials

Formaldehyde can be measured in a variety of ways which are as follows:• Spot test using phenyl hydrazine, sulphuric acid, ferric chloride and

water solution (Qualitative Method).

• “Free” is the measurement to determine the level of formaldehyde present in the fabric or product, this will give an indication as to the “risk” in handling the product “Released” is the measurement to de-termine the level of formaldehyde given-off by the fabric into the at-mosphere; this will give an indication as to the “risk” of respiratory problem.

Eco-testing of textiles 5• The most commonly used method for the determination of free for-maldehyde in fabric material is the Pentane-2, 4-dione method, also known as acetylacetone method In acetic acid and ammonium ace-tate buffer condition, acetylacetone and formaldehyde react to form dimethyl pyridine (DDL) Dimethyl pyridine is slightly yellow and its absorption maximum in aqueous solution is 412 nm The intensity of the colour of the aqueous solution is proportional to the formalde-hyde concentration This is the basis to determine the content of free formaldehyde.

• Source: Dye fixing agents/resin finishing.

• Limits: 100 mg/kg for textiles directly in contact with skin 300 mg/kg for textiles not directly in contact with skin.

• Effects: Weakens the immune system and suspected carcinogen.

pH = log[H+]

• pH is a numeric scale used to specify the acidity or alkalinity of an aqueous solution.

• pH stands for “power of hydrogen”.

To be more precise, pH is the negative logarithm of the hydrogen ion tration as shown in Figure 1.1.

concen-Figure 1.1 pH scale

• A pH of 7 is neutral.• A pH less than 7 is acidic.

• A pH greater than 7 is basic (alkaline).

6 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

pH measurement

pH in an aqueous solution can be measured in a variety of ways The most common way uses a pH‐sensitive glass electrode, a reference electrode and a pH metre.

Figure 1.2 demonstrates the alternative methods for determining the pH of a solution using indicators and colorimeters.

Figure 1.2 Colorimeter

1.2.5 Pesticides

Pesticides are used during cotton plants cultivation to protect the plants from pets attack Similarly wool producing animals are produced from parasites using pesticides It is possible to absorb pesticides from textile through the skin and also by sucking on the garments A variety of poisoning symptoms can appear from the various pesticides such as headache, nausea, dizziness, vomiting, etc right up to the fatality depending upon the dose In the long-term contact, pesticides have a carcinogenic effect or mutagenic and terato-genic There is no standard legal regulation for pesticide residue in textiles The prohibition of chemical ordinance applies to DiChloro-Diphenyl Trichlo-roethane (DDT), but other pesticides mentioned in the highest concentration of Residue Ordinance of the food and Consumer Goods Act Limits and re-strictions is <10 mg/kg (ppm).

The legislation refers to the Ozone Depletion Substances (Regulation) Rules, 2000.Ozone (O3) is a form of oxygen in the atmosphere about 20 km above the earth’s surface that efficiently screens out almost all the harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays of the sun This radiation has the potential to cause skin cancer,

Eco-testing of textiles 7eye damage; suppress body s immune system, decrease crop yield; cause damage to forests and affect ocean life.

In accordance with the National Strategy for Ozone depletion substances (ODS) phase out the Government of India – MoEF, have framed comprehen-sive draft rules, covering various aspects of production, sale, consumption, export and import of ODS Some of the important provisions of the proposed draft ODS rules are as follows:

ODS producers

• Compulsory to register with MoEF.

• Restriction on production levels as per “base level” and reductions specified.

• Ban on creating new capacity or expansion of capacity.

• Export restricted to countries who are signatory to Montreal Protocol.• Quantity produced in excess of maximum allowable consumption

for the respective years, if any, to be for export purposes only.However, depletion of ozone layer is still a cause for concern as ODS continue to be used in developing countries in refrigeration and air-condi-tioning, preparation of foam and spray products, fire extinguishing, and as solvents in electronics and other industries In the textile industry chlorinated solvents like dichloromethane in tetrachloroethylene, trichloroethylene and methylene chloride are often used in fabric scouring, dye carrier, cleaning purposes, etc Now with the regulations coming into picture, the industries are left to abate the impact of all these substances and seek for possible sub-stitutions and alternatives.

1.2.7 Phthalates

Phthalates are group of chemicals that are used, among other things, to make polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and other plastics soft and flexible Many types of phthalates are in use today PVC can be found in plastic items and trim in apparel and textiles In addition, PVC can often be found in screen prints and inks They are suspected carcinogens and are known to disturb the endocrine system in humans and animals They are restricted in plasticized materials in toys and child care articles; however, some re-tailer groups place restrictions on plasticized materials on apparel.

The phthalates are legally restricted for children’s product and child care articles both in European Union (EU) and Consumer Product Safety Im-provement Act (CPSIA) and some of them are as follows:

8 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels• DiButyl phthalate (DBP)

• Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP)• Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)• Di-iso-decylphthalate (DIDP)• Di-iso-butyl phthalate (DIBP)Limits/restriction – 0.1% (1000 mg/kg)

1.2.8 Flame retardants

Flame retardants are applied to textiles for protective clothing to be worn at workplaces with a particularly high fire hazard and are also important for protecting curtains and upholstery furniture in rooms open to the public and for car interior furnishings There are flame retardant modified polyester fi-bres where there is no exposure of the user to flame retardant There are also permanent flame retardant made of fibre reactive compounds where minor exposure is assumed to exist Semi-permanent flame retardants also include substance which involves health risks and some of these have been banned by the regulations on specific commodities under the foods etc.

1.2.9 Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is produced by polymerization of monomer vinyl chloride It is a thermoplastic polymer, which can be made softer and more flexible by the addition of plasticizers In the textile industry PVC is often found in accessories such as zip pullers, coatings and accessories such as badges It is also used in plastisol prints on textiles It may be found either as artificial or coated leather It is cheaper than rubber and latex, so these materials may be substituted too Another use of PVC is for preparation of packaging It has many impacts on the environment The monomer vinyl chloride, which PVC is produced from, is highly toxic and carcinogenic or-ganic compounds.

“Eco-friendly textiles” are gaining importance in the consumer market sumers who initially considered only the aesthetic value are now looking at the harmful effects created by various chemicals “It is better for the society to prevent pollution than to cure it after its creation” Environmental pro-tection and eco-friendliness play an increasing part in consumer awareness

Con-Eco-testing of textiles 9today Therefore, the textile industry become aware of it and efforts are being initiated in the production of “Eco-friendly textiles”.

1 Poonam Kumari, Saroj S Jeet Singh, Neelam M Rose (April 2013), Eco – Textiles: For Sustainable Development Int J Sci Eng Res, 4(4), 1379, ISSN 2229–5518.2 Rahul Bhajekar (June 2014), Ecological considerations, parameters and textile test-

ing, Texanlab laboratories Pvt ltd Textile and analytical laboratory

3 Sumit Gupta (2014), Eco fashion and commitments from brands 8th ATEXCON, 23rd

September, 2014.4 www.oecotextiles.com

A study of natural dyeing in sustainable product development

N Nanthagopal1 and M D Jothilinkam2

1Department of Fashion Technology, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore-641049 E-mail: nanthagopal107@gmail.com

2School of Fashion Design, Footwear Design and Development Institute, Chennai-602117 E-mail: mdjothi@gmail.com

Abstract: Sustainable fashion is part of the larger trend of sustainable design where

a product is created and produced with consideration to the environmental and social impact The use of natural dyes is growing considerably because of the quality of the natural dye stuff obtained, the environmental compatibility of the dyes and the sub-stantial minimisation of the processing costs Natural dyes are extracted from different parts of plants such as bark, leaf, root, fruit, seed, and flower that contain colouring materials like tannin, flavonoids, quinonoids, etc Natural dyes produce very uncom-mon, soothing and soft shades as compared to synthetic dyes On the other hand, synthetic dyes, which are widely available at an economical price and produce a wide variety of colours, sometimes causes skin allergy and other harmfulness to human body, produces toxicity/chemical hazards during its synthesis, releases undesirable/hazardous/toxic chemicals, etc For successful commercial use of natural dyes for any particular fibres, the appropriate and standardised techniques for dyeing for that particular fibre-natural dye system need to be adopted The tradition of using natural dyes could survive only in certain isolated pockets Recent environmental awareness has again revived interest in natural dyes mainly among environmentally conscious people Natural dyes are considered eco-friendly as these are renewable and bio-de-gradable are skin-friendly and may also provide health benefits to the wearer Natural dyes can be used for dyeing almost all types of natural fibres Recent research shows that they can also be used to dye some synthetic fibres Apart from their application in textiles, natural dyes are also used in the colouration of food, medicines, handicraft items and toys, and in leather processing, and many of the dye-yielding plants are used as medicines in various traditional medicinal systems.

Keywords: Advantages, Classifications, Limitations, Impact of Dyes and Types

12 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

From the past times, natural colourants have been used for numerous purposes including tribal or funeral ceremonies, body painting, deco-rative art and clothing or domestic decoration At first, colorants were mainly extracted from minerals, insects and plants Textile industry produces large amount of hazardous wastewater containing various synthetic colorants Recently, numerous researches have focused on development of totally new technologies and/or modification of con-ventional technologies for cleaner and environmentally friendlier production and treatment processes of textiles Hence, the use of non-toxic, anti-microbial and eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles, pref-erably on natural fibre products, has recently become more and more important One of the advantages of natural dyes is eco-friendliness, i.e., they do not produce any environmental problems at the stage of production or consumption and, maintain the ecological balance In addition, most of natural dyes have inherently anti-microbial proper-ties and consequently, could possess high medicinal activity Natural dyes are extracted from different parts of plants including bark (e.g., Purple bark, Sappan wood, Shillicorai, Khair, Red and Sandalwood); leaf (e.g., Indigo, Henna, Eucalyptus, Tea, Cardamon, Coral Jasmine, Lemon Grass); root (e.g., Turmeric, Madder, Onions, Beet-root); fruits or seeds (e.g., Latkan, Pomegranate rind, Beetle nut, Myrobolan) and flower (e.g., Marigold, Dahlia, Tesu, Kusum) that contain colour-ing materials like tannin, flavonoids, quinonoids, etc as show in Figure 2.1 There are, of course, some drawbacks associated with the appli-cation of natural dyes These dyes have poor fastness and the resulting colours have poor quality Moreover, it is difficult to reproduce shades using natural dyes Natural dyes are mostly non-substantive and must be applied on textiles with the help of mordants, usually a metallic salt, having an affinity for both the colouring matter and the fibre Transition metal ions usually have strong coordinating power and/or capable of forming week to medium attraction/interaction forces and thus can act as bridging material to create substantivity of natural dyes/colourants when a textile material being impregnated with such metal-lic salt (i.e., mordanted) is subjected to dyeing with different natural dyes, usually having some mordantable groups facilitating fixation of such dye/colourant These metallic mordants after combining with dye in the fibre, it forms an insoluble precipitate or lake and thus both the dye and mordant get fixed to become wash fast to a reasonable level.

A study of natural dyeing in sustainable product development 13

Figure 2.1 Natural Colourants Natural dyes are extracted from different parts of the

plants such as (A) bark (Purple bark); (B) leaf (Eucalyptus); (C) flower (Marigold); (D) fruits (Pomegranate rind) and (E) root (Madder)

2.2 Advantages of natural dyes/colourants

i) The shades produced by natural dyes/colourants are usually soft,

lus-trous and soothing to the human eye.

ii) Natural dyestuff can produce a wide range of colours by mix and

match system A small variation in the dyeing technique or the use of

different mordants with the same dye (polygenetic type natural dye) can shift the colours to a wide range or create totally new colours, which are not easily possible with synthetic dyestuffs.

iii) Natural dyestuffs produce rare colour ideas and are automatically harmonising.

iv) Unlike non-renewable basic raw materials for synthetic dyes, the natural dyes are usually renewable, being agro-renewable/vegetable based and at the same time bio-degradable.

v) In some cases like harda, indigo, etc., the waste in the process comes an ideal fertiliser for use in agricultural fields Therefore, no disposal problem of this natural waste.

be-vi) Many plants thrive on wastelands Thus, wasteland utilisation is an added merit of the natural dyes Dyes like madder grow as host in tea gardens So there is no additional cost or effort required to grow it.

14 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

vii) This is a labour intensive industry, thereby providing job ties for all those engaged in cultivation, extraction and application of these dyes on textile/food/leather, etc.

opportuni-viii) Application of natural dyes has potential to earn carbon credit by ducing consumption of fossil fuel (petroleum) based synthetic dyes.ix) Some of its constituents are anti-allergens, hence prove safe for skin

re-contact and are mostly non-hazardous to human health.

x) Some of the natural dyes are enhanced with age, while synthetic dyes fade with time.

xi) Natural dyes bleed but do not stain other fabrics, turmeric being an exception.

xii) Natural dyes are usually moth proof and can replace synthetic dyes in kids garments and food-stuffs for safety.

Despite these advantages, natural dyes do carry some inherent disadvantages, which are responsible for the decline of this ancient art of dyeing textiles.

2.2.1 Limitation/disadvantages of natural dyes/colourants

i) It is difficult to reproduce shades by using natural dyes/colourants, as

these agro products vary from one crop season to another crop

sea-son, place to place and species to species, maturity period, etc.ii) It is difficult to standardise a recipe for the use of natural dyes, as the

natural dyeing process and its colour development depends not only on colour component but also on materials.

iii) Natural dyeing requires skilled workmanship and is therefore sive Low colour yield of source natural dyes thus necessitates the use of more dyestuffs, larger dyeing time and excess cost for mor-dants and mordanting.

expen-iv) Scientific backup of a large part of the science involved in natural dyeing is still need to be explored.

v) Lack of availability of precise technical knowledge on extraction and dyeing techniques.

vi) The dyed textile may change colour when exposed to the sun, sweat and air.

vii) Nearly all-natural dyes with a few exceptions require the use of mordants to fix them on to the textile substrate While dyeing, a

A study of natural dyeing in sustainable product development 15substantial portion of the mordant remains unexhausted in the resid-ual dye bath and may pose serious effluent disposal problem.

viii) With a few exceptions, most of the natural dyes are fugitive even when applied in conjunction with a mordant Therefore, sometimes their colour fastness performance ratings are inadequate for modern textile usage.

2.3 Classification of natural dyes/colorants

On the basis of hues, natural dyes can be classified as follows:

i) Red colour dyes: Most red dyes are hidden in roots or barks of plants or camouflaged in the bodies of dull grey insects They are almost invariably based on anthraquin one and its derivatives These dyes are stable to light and washing.

ii) Yellow colour dyes: Yellow is the liveliest and perhaps the most abundant of all hues in nature About 90% of the yellow dyes are flavonoids Generally, they produce pale shade with quicker fading except turmeric, which produce dull deep shade but considered to be susceptible to light as they emit fluorescence Wash fastness rating of natural yellow dyes ranges from fair to excellent, e.g., tesu, turmeric, kapila.

iii) Blue colour dyes are indigo and woad, give excellent fastness to light and washing.

iv) Black colour dyes: Black shades, generally obtained from tannin rich plant natural dyes and appreciably substantive towards cellulosic and protein fibre, imparts good overall fastness properties Examples – logwood, harda, custard apple, etc.

v) On the basis of origin, natural dyes are broadly classified into three categories: vegetable, mineral and animal origin.

Natural dyes can also be classified on the basis of their chemical tution They are as follows:

consti-i) Indigoid dyes: Indigo and Tyrian purple are the most common ples of this class Another blue dye, woad also possesses indigo as the main dyeing component.

exam-ii) Anthraquinone dyes: Almost all the red natural dyes are based on the anthraquinoid structure having both plant and mineral origin Mad-der, lacs, kermes, cochineal are some of the dyes possess this type of structure These are generally mordant dyes.

16 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

iii) Alphanaphthoquinones: Typical example of this class is laws one (henna), cultivated mainly in India and Egypt Another similar dye is juglone, obtained from the shells of unripe walnuts These dyes are generally disperse dyes and give shades of orange.

iv) Flavonoids, which yield yellow dyes can be classified under flavones, isoflavones, aurones and chalcones Flavones are colourless organic compounds Most of the natural yellows are derivatives of hydroxyl and methoxy substituted flavones and isoflavones Common example is weld (containing luteolin pigment) giving brilliant and fast colours on both wool and silk.

v) Di-hydropyrans: Closely related in chemical structure to the flavones

are substituted di-hydropyrans, viz., haematin and its leuco form,

haematoxylin These are important natural dyes for dark shades on

silk, wool and cotton Logwood, brazil wood and sappan-wood are

the common example.

vi) Anthocyanidins: The naturally occurring member of this class cludes carajurin, a direct orange dye for wool and cotton It is ob-tained from the leaves of bignonia chica.

in-vii) Carotenoids: The class name carotene is derived from the orange pigment found in carrots In these, the colour is due to the presence of long conjugated double bonds.

Another method of classifying natural dye is on the basis of the method of application.

• Mordant dyes are dyestuffs which require a mordant in their plication as they have no affinity for the fibre being dyed A mor-

ap-dant dye should have electron donating groups capable of forming a complex with the transition metal salt, e.g., madder, fustic, persian, berries, kermes, cochineal, etc.

• Vat dyes are water insoluble dyes which are first converted to their water soluble form (reducing with Na – hydrosulphite and then solu-

bilising it with alkali) and then applied to the fibres The true colour is produced only on oxidation followed by treatment with a hot soap solution, e.g., indigo.

• Direct dyes are those dyes that have tremendous affinity for the

cellulosic fibres They are dyed from a boiling dye bath

Tur-meric, harda, pomegranate rind, etc are the few of the direct

nat-ural dyes.

• Acid dyes are applied from an acidic medium The dye molecules have either sulphonic or carboxylic group (s) which can form an

A study of natural dyeing in sustainable product development 17electrovalent bond with amino groups of wool and silk An after treatment with tannic acid known as back tanning improves the fast-

ness of these type of dyes, e.g., saffron.

• Disperse dye has a relatively low molecular mass, low-solubility and no strong solubilising groups Disperse dyes can be applied on to hy-

drophobic synthetic fibre from neutral to mildly acidic pH They can also be applied to silk and wool These dyes can be post-mordanted

with chromium, copper and tin salts, e.g., lawsone and many other

flavone and anthroquinone dyes.

• Basic or cationic dyes on ionization give coloured cations and form an electrovalent bond with the functional group of wool and silk

These dyes are applied from neutral to mildly acidic pH These dyes have poor light fastness, e.g., berberine.

2.4 Types of textiles suitable for dyeing

Natural dyes can be used on most types of material or fibre but the level of success in terms of fastness and clarity of colour varies considerably Users of natural dyes, however, tend to also use natural fibres, and so we will look in more detail at this group Natural fibres come mainly from two distinct or-igins, animal origin or vegetable origin Fibres from an animal origin include wool, silk, mohair and alpaca, as well as some others which are less well-known All animal fibres are based on proteins Natural dyes have a strong affinity to fibres of animal origin, especially wool, silk and mohair and the re-sults with these fibres are usually good Fibres of plant origin include cotton, flax or linen, ramie, jute, hemp and many others Plant fibres have cellulose as their basic ingredient Natural dyeing of certain plant based textiles can be less successful than their animal equivalent Different mordanting techniques are called for with each category When a blend of fibre of both animal and plant origin is being dyed, then a recipe should be chosen which will accentu-ate the fibre which is required to be dominant.

2.4.1 Natural dyestuffs

Dyestuffs and dyeing are as old as textiles themselves Nature provides a wealth of plants which will yield their colour for the purpose of dyeing, many having been used since antiquity In this section we will look at some of these naturally occurring dyes, their source and the colours they produce Later in the brief we will look at the application of the dyes to textiles Almost any organic material will produce a colour when boiled in a dye-bath, but only certain plants will yield a colour that will act as a dye Natural dyes fall into the following categories:

18 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels• Leaves and stems

• Twigs and prunings• Flower heads• Barks• Roots

• Outer skins, hulls and husks• Heartwoods and wood shavings• Berries and seeds

• Lichens• Insect dyes.

2.4.2 Impact of synthetic dyes on environment

Even cotton that is organically grown is often dyed using reactive synthetic dyes that pose environmental and human risks during various stages of pro-cessing When synthetically dyed clothing, especially snugly-fitting garments come into prolonged contact with the skin, the toxins are absorbed into the body, leading to skin allergies and respiratory ailments Almost 70% of In-dia’s textile industry is unorganised and several processes like dyeing are home-based This means that, in the absence of stringent laws around safe, good quality dyes, most textile workers who work with artificial dyes without any protection are exposing themselves to the risk of cancer in a span of 4–5 years Besides being toxic to human health, the indiscriminate disposal of the effluents from the dyeing process means that they continue to remain in the environment and pollute it In what was a merging between the old and the new, the Baids began looking at how natural colouring agents could be sustainably adapted to large scale industrial textile manufacturing processes Aura has now patented a process of herbal dyeing using ground and pounded medicinally rich herbs, plant material, minerals, oils, and natural mordants.

2.4.3 Ecologically sustainable indigo dyeing

Indigo dye is an organic compound with a distinctive blue colour cally, indigo was a natural dye extracted from plants, and this process was important economically because blue dyes were once rare In news that would delight the environmental watchers, there is a natural dyeing unit that specializes in indigo dyeing This dyeing process utilizes a vegetable dyeing process and is totally focused on being environmental-friendly The primary use for indigo is as a dye for cotton yarn, which is mainly for the produc-tion of denim cloth for blue jeans The yarn is first treated with high alkaline

Histori-A study of natural dyeing in sustainable product development 19soaps instead of the usual caustic soda It also uses plant extracts that doesn’t pose harm to humans, but may actually improve their health Like the tannin used as a mordant can be a source for powerful antiseptic too Turmeric re-juvenates the skin and indigo aids in relaxing The water in each stage gets treated before being recycled for agricultural use With further development and active support from government, this dyeing process could well be ap-plied in medium sized industrial productions.

The Sustainable Fashion Hub is a series that examines shifts in the global fashion industry to more sustainable and ethical practices and processes, with a special focus on India It explores what goes into creating a just and sus-tainable fashion value chain – from the creation of garments and lifestyle

accessories to making them available to consumers Most of the natural dyes/

colour are eco-safe, except a few Some of the natural colours are not only eco-safe, but also has added value for its medicinal effects on skin and are more than skin friendly Textile dyers must know the chemistry of these nat-ural colours and its added advantages of medicinal values Use of suitable binary mixtures of similar or compatible natural dyes for colouring natu-ral eco-friendly textiles in variety of soothing/uncommon shades with eco-friendly mordants and finishing agents are the most desirable product of the customers for future So, natural dyeing/colouration of textiles by industrial processes in large scale dyeing unit are now a reality in the textile market of eco-friendly textiles.

1 http://www.slonet.org/~crowland/index.html Carol Todd’s Natural Dyeing page Sells books and electronic database of plants and natural dyes.

Home-2 http://www.thealternative.in/lifestyle/living-dyeing-naturally-aura-herbal-wear/3 http://practicalaction.org/icts/docs/technical_information_service/dyeing_textiles.pdf4 Agarwal A., Goel A & Gupta K C., (1992) Textile Dyers and Printer, 25(10), 28.5 Bhattacharya N, (1999) Proceedings of convention of Natural Dyes edited by Deepti

Gupta & M.L Gulrajani, Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi, 1999, 134.6 Ashis Kumar Samanta and Adwaita Konar, Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes,

Department of Jute and Fibre Technology, Institute of Jute Technology, University of Calcutta, India.

Application of vetiver extract on cotton fabric

S Ampritha1 and Dr V Krishnaveni2

1Scholar, Department of Fashion Technology, Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore,Tamilnadu, India E-mail: amprisekar@gmail.com2

Associate Professor, Department of Fashion Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore, Tamilnadu, India E-mail:krishnassstyle@gmail.com

Abstract: Medical textile is one of the most rapidly expanding sectors in the cal textile market The scope of meditech envelops all textile materials used in health

techni-and hygiene applications in both consumer techni-and medical markets The consumers are now increasingly aware of the hygienic life style and there is a necessity and expecta-tion for a wide range of textile products finished with anti-microbial properties From

the plant kingdom, one of the abundant sources of strong natural fibre is Vetiveria

zizanioides and it has numerous properties such as anti-microbial property and

in-herently filled with good aroma The extract was prepared with Vetiveria zizanioides

powder using the solvent ethanol The plant extract was applied on the cotton fabric by using pad dry cure method with natural mordants using Box and Behnken opti-mized conditions The phytochemicals were identified and screened from the solvent and anti-microbial testing was carried out on plant extract coated fabric against stand-ard micro-organisms The quantitative and qualitative tests of anti-fungal activity

were tested on the fabrics against Aspergillus niger and Candida albicans fungi and anti-bacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 25923 and Escherichia

coli ATCC 25922 of both positive and negative bacteria Then coated fabric

parame-ters were tested against mechanical and comfort properties The test results depict the clear picture and benefits for medical and health care applications.

Keywords: Vetiveria zizanioides, anti-microbial, Box and behnken,

micro-organ-isms, cotton

Vetiver (Chrysopogonzizanioides, previously Vetiveria zizanioides) is a perennial

grass and native to India Vetiver can grow up to 1.5 m high and form clumps as wide The stems are tall and the leaves are long, thin, and rather rigid Veti-

ver’s roots grow downward, 2–4 m in depth Vetiveria zizanioidesis profoundly

22 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

used in Ayurvedic medicine The chemical constituents present in the plant are Vetiverol, Vetivone, Khusimone, Khusimol, Vetivene, Khositone, Terpenes, Ben-zoic acid,Tripene-4- ol, β-Humulene, Epizizianal, Vetivenylvetivenate, iso-khusi-mol, β-vetivone, vetivazulene Ayurvedic literature mentioned that plant is used as digestive, carminative stomachic, constipating, haematinic, expectorant, an-ti-spasmodic, anti-asthmatic, anti-gout, anthelmentic, anti-microbial and diuretic Nowadays, uses of natural fibre as reinforcing materials have grown rapidly Thousands of articles related in this subject have been published since 1995 Pro-ductions of natural fibres such as flax, sisal, and jute as reinforcement for pol-ymer composites have been commercialised Natural fibre-reinforced polymer composites have been introduced into interior part of automobiles Vetiver fibre was one of natural fibres from leaves They are lignocellulosic bio composites comprising α-cellulose-type-I, hemicellulose, lignin and low-molecular weight compounds Their main component is α-cellulose in nature Vetiver has many end uses such as are aromatic, anti-fungal, cooling, anti-emetic, diaphoretic, haemo-

static, expectorant, diuretic, stimulant, hysteria, insomnia, skin diseases, asthma,

amentia, amenorrhoea, anti-spasmodic, kidney problems, gall stones, mosquito repellent , tonic and antioxidant Vetiver fibre has been found to have better an-ti-microbial properties under laboratory conditions It has been found that this fibre gives bacterio-static and fungi-static properties against pathogens namely

Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli and also it has the good inhibition

against bacteria and will prevent the growth of bacteria This vetiver also gives pleasant odour because of its inherent aroma characteristics Hence the present

investigation aims at developing anti-microbial healthcare products by using

Vet-iveria zizanioides extract.

3.2.1 Selection of plants

Vetiveria zizanioides the roots are stout, dense and aromatic; leaves are

narrow, erect, keeled with scabrid margins Vetiver grows wild in most all plain states in India up to an elevation of 1200 m Only in some pockets of South India is the grass systematically cultivated but the yield from the cultivated crops meets only a small percentage of requirements The vetiver roots were purchased from Agriculture Uni-versity, Coimbatore.

al-3.2.2 Preparation of vetiver extract

The vetiver roots were shadow dried, choked and converted into powder form by using automatic machines This vetiver powder was converted into solution form using solvents by soxhlet apparatus (Figure 3.1).

Application of vetiver extract on cotton fabric 23

Figure 3.1 Preparation of vetiver extract

3.2.3 Identification of chemical components in vetiver root

The different chemical components and physical parameters were analysed and identified These chemical compositions will distribute the quality of the particular purpose The identified chemical components from the vetiver plant comprised α-cellulose-type-I, hemicellulose, lignin and low molecular weight compounds The main component is α-cellulose in vetiver in the na-ture itself.

3.2.4 Screening of phytochemical components in vetiver root

The phytochemical examination of the extract was performed by the standard test methods and shown the presence of various phytochemical constituents in the plant The phytochemical screening tests reveals the components in the root extract such assaponins, flavanoids, phenols, tri-terpenes and steroids were present where as tannins were absent in the extract.

24 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

3.2.5 Assessment of anti-microbial activity in vetiver root extract

A.  Anti-bacterial activity by agar diffusion test

A 25 ml of nutrient agar was prepared and sterilised at 121ºC for 15 minutes Petri plates were autoclaved in hot air oven at 121ºC for 30 minutes Then 20 ml of nutrient agar was poured into each of these plates and were allowed to solidify After that 100 μl of 10 (-8) diluted culture was taken aseptically and poured onto the Petri plates This was spreaded by using L rod The plates were incubated at 37ºC for 24–48 hours.

B. Anti-fungal activity by agar diffusion method

The anti-fungal activity of vetiver extracts were determined by agar fusion method A 25 ml of potato dextrose was prepared and sterilised at 121ºC for 15 minutes Petri plates were autoclaved in hot air oven at 121ºC for 30 minutes After that 20 ml of potato dextrose was poured into each of these plates and were allowed to solidify Then 100 μl of 10 (-8) diluted culture was taken aseptically and poured onto the Petri plates This was spreaded by using L rod The plates were incubated at 37ºC for 48–72 hours.

3.3.1 Identification of chemical components in vetiver root

The chemical composition of vetiver root was identified and presented in the Table 3.1 The identified main chemical composition of lingo cellulosic mate-rials such as vetiver includes cellulose, hemi-cellulose, and lignin.

Table 3.1 Chemical analysis of vetiver

Solubility inCold

water %1% NaOH

Since the lignin content was below 20%, the vetiver extract can be more suitable for fabric applications.

Application of vetiver extract on cotton fabric 253.3.2 Screening of phytochemical components in veti-

ver root

Phytochemical screening tests were performed and the test results were sented in the Table 3.2.

pre-Table 3.2 Phytochemical screening of vetiver root extract

From Table 3.2, it has been revealed that Vetiveria Zizanioides root

ex-tract has the phytochemicals such as Saponins, Triterpenes, Steroids, vanoids and Phenols present in it The compounds such as flavanoids and phenol represent the anti-microbial property Hence it can be suitable for health and hygienic applications.

Fla-3.3.3 Assessment of anti-bacterial activity in vetiver root extract

The anti-bacterial activity of vetiver has been performed against gram positive and gram negative bacteria The test result has been displayed in the Table 3.3.

Table 3.3 Anti-bacterial activity of vetiver root extract

Anti-bacterialactivity (Zone of

inhibition in mm)against

Anti-bacterial activity(Zone of inhibition in

mm) against

Escherichiacoli

26 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

From Table 3.3, it has been found that Vetiveria Zizanioides extract of 50%

concentration coated fabric shows highest anti-bacterial activity against

posi-tive pathogenic micro-organism namely Staphylococcus aureus than the ative pathogenic micro-organism Escherichia coli.

neg-3.3.4 Anti-fungal activity of vetiver root extract

The anti-fungal activity of vetiver has been performed against the

micro-or-ganisms namely Aspergillus niger and Candida albicans The test results

have been shown in Table 3.4.

Table 3.4 Anti-fungal activity of vetiver root extract

S No.Samples

Anti-fungal activity (Zone ofinhibition in mm)

Aspergillus niger

Anti-fungal activity (Zone ofinhibition in mm)

Candida albicans

From Table 3.4, it has been found that Vetiveria Zizanioides root extract of

50% concentration of coated fabrics shows highest anti-fungal activity when

compared to 10% and 30% concentration against Aspergillus niger than

Can-dida albicans.

3.4 Conclusion

From the results, it can be concluded that the vetiver root extract showed good results in anti-microbial property against pathogenic bacteria and fungi

It has been found that the highest concentration of Veiveria Zizanioides

ex-tract coated fabric showed good anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activity when compared to untreated or lowest concentration of vetiver It shows good an-ti-bacterial activity against the gram positive bacteria than gram negative

bacteria and good anti-fungal activity against Aspergillus niger than Candida

albicans The presence of flavanoids phytochemical compounds exhibit

an-ti-microbial effect Hence, the newly developed Vetiveria Zizanioides extract

coated fabric will perform better in preventing microbes from penetrating it into the body and also can be used for developing various healthcare products.

Application of vetiver extract on cotton fabric 27

1 Wimonlak Sutapun, Nitinat Suppakarn, and Yupaporn Ruksakulpiwat (2010) Study of Characteristic of Vetiver Fiber Before and After Alkaline Treatment Advanced Materials Research Vols 123–125 pp 1191–1194.

2 Devprakash, K K Srinivasan, T Subburaju, Sachinkumar Singh (2011) bial activity of alcoholic and aqueous extracts of Vetiveria zizanioides J Pharm Res 4(5):1343–1344.

Antimicro-3 Satya Prakash Singh, Satish Kumar Sharma, Tanuja Singh, Lalit Singh (2013) view on Vetiveria zizanioides: a medicinal herb J Drug Dis Ther 1(7): 80–83.4 Arul Amutha Elizabeth, Glory Josephine, Inbaraj, Farhana Rahman, Muniappan

Re-(2012) Evaluation of analgesic and anti-inflammatory effect of vetiveria zizanioides J Pharm Biomed Sci 25(25):164–170.

5 Somporn Putiyanan, Khesorn Nantachit, Manasnant Bunchoo, Banyong Khantava, Chantana Khamwan CMU (2005) Pharmacognostic Identification and Antimicrobial Activity Evaluation of Vetiveria Zizanioides (L.) Nash ex Small Root Vol 4(3) 6 R.R Rao, M.R Suseela (1989) National Botanical Research Institute Lucknow,

India, VETIVERIA ZIZANIOIDES, 439–442.

7 Dikshit, A., Husain, A (1984) Antifungal action of some essential oils against animal pathogens Fitoterapia 55:171–176.

8 Hassan A., Rahman S., Deeba F., Mahmud S., (2009) Antimicrobial activity of some plant extracts having hepatoprotective effects J Med Plant Res 3(1):020–023.9 Vertiveria zizanioides (2013) online available from URL:http//www.herbal online

pharmacy.com, 80–83.

10 Jayaraman S, Manoharan M S., Illanchezian S., (2008) In vitro antimicrobial and anti tumor activities of Stevia rebaudiana Tropical J Pharm Res 7(4):1143–1149.

Bio-polymers derived from renewable plant sources

R Sukanyadevi, Vaishnavi Muralidharan and C Kavya

Kumaraguru College of Technology, Coimbatore:Email id: sukanyadevi.r.txt@kct.ac.in

Abstract: Sustainable polymers are revolutionary inventions that are growing

competi-tion to the convencompeti-tional fibres These are polymers that do not have adverse effects on the environment and promise to give better properties Sorona fibre was the first bio-polymer developed by DuPont, a derivative of triexta (polytrimethylene terephthalate) It is made out of non-edible plant glucose starch extract It can be shaped into fibres and other arti-cle to offer unique combinations of properties This technology enables manufacturers to use the existing assets to make new higher value products to meet the needs It is rapidly growing in fibre science, engineering thermoplastics, films and several other markets Its production uses 40% less energy and emits 56% less greenhouse gases It is used in vari-ous applications due to its high comfort level, stretch and recovery properties It has high strength and has a unique property to be blended with all kinds of fibres It is widely used in home textiles and is being used in apparels Sorona fibres for apparels prove to be very comfortable and attractive In this paper, the properties of Sorona, Sorona blended fabrics etc., and its uses as apparels will be discussed in detail.

Keywords: Biopolymers, Polytrimethylene terephthalate, Manufacturing, Features

and Applications

Sustainable and degradable products are the need of the day, since there are vast use of non-renewable based chemical sources for synthesis of polymers and other architectures There is a need to explore agricultural waste mate-rials for synthesis of polymers such as phenolic resins, polyesters, polyure-thanes, etc Phenolic sources are vast and widely distributed in wood, seeds, shell, cashew nut shell liquid (CNSL), lignin, palm oil and other plant-based resources which are usually thrown as agricultural and agro-based industrial waste, while lactic acid and long chain alcohols are derived from corn starch, soya bean and castor oil, respectively Sustainable polymers are plastic ma-terials which are renewable and produced in an eco-friendly manner These polymers should use less net water and non-renewable energy, emit less green house gases and do not harm the environment.

30 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

4.1.1 Polytrimethylene Terephthalate (PTT)

Polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) – Sorona is one such bio-polymer that has been developed by DuPont A leading bio-polymer, Sorona contains 37% annually renewable plant-based ingredients Producing Sorona uses 30% less energy and releases 63% fewer greenhouse gas emissions compared to the production of nylon 6 Compared to nylon 6,6, Sorona fibres consume 40% less energy and reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 56% Figures 4.1 and 4.2 represent the structure of polymers.

Figure 4.1 Structure of polytrimethylene terephthalate

Figure 4.2 Structure of aromatic polymers

Bio-polymers derived from renewable plant sources 31Sorona bio-polymer is used in residential and commercial carpets, apparel and automotive mats and carpets, It also offers durability and stain resistance.

4.2 Manufacturing of polytrimethylene terephthalate

Sorona is a co-polymer of 1,3-propanediol and petroleum derived terepthalic acid or dimethyl terepthalate Scientists developed the organism that would use the glucose (sugar) from corn starch to produce Propanediol (PDO) They also developed a fermentation process to produce a pure form of Bio-Propan-ediol (PDO) Glucose is produced from the corn starch A micro-organism is added to the glucose Five nine-storey-tall fermentors are filled with the organism and glucose The organism then excretes Bio-Propanediol (PDO), forming a broth Next, the Bio-Propanediol (PDO) broth is separated and dis-tilled to a form that is 99.97% pure, with the remainder primarily water This bio-Propanediol (PDO) reacts with Dimethylene Terephthalate/Terephthalic Acid (DMT/TPA) in the presence of the catalyst to form Sorona polymer This polymer is then extruded to form fibres for various end uses.

4.3 Features of polytrimethylene terephthalate

1 Softness

Both flat and textured yarns may be created from PTT polymer The strain tests demonstrate that flat yarns made with these fibres are softer than either polyester or nylon, at the same denier, because less effort is required to bend Sorona fibres.

stress-2 Stretch with recovery

Both flat and textured yarns made from PTT have high elastic recovery which is almost thrice to that of nylon Research shows that fully drawn flat yarn made with Sorona recovers 100% from approximately 120% strain For textured yarns, fibres made with Sorona offer up to 145% stretch with 100% recovery.

3 Easy dyeability at the boiling

Using standard available dyes, fibres made with PTT can be dyed at a lower temperature than polyester, without requiring pressure or chemical carriers The polymer molecule enables the crystalline structure of the fibre to begin accepting the dye pigment below the boiling point, at approximately 85°C.

4 Blending

Polytrimethylene terephthalate fibres can be blended with various fibres like Nylon, Spandex, Polyester, Cotton, Silk, Wool, Linen, etc Depending on the type of fibre it is blended with, it adapts to enhance the properties of the fibres to produce better results like comfort and tensile properties.

32 Sustainability in Fashion and Apparels

Polytrimethylene terephthalate fabrics are stain resistant and do not allow particles to stain it easily The molecules in the fibres are arranged in such a manner that it avoids staining Sorona fabrics show high resistance to crease Ironing is not required They can be easily handled It is also resistant to bleach and UV.

Carpets made with Sorona are permanently stain-resistant Even tough stains like mustard, ketchup and red wine will not penetrate carpets made with So-rona These carpets will never wash off or wear away; they will look like new for years to come Carpets made with Sorona are bleach and UV-resistant to reduce fading Sorona makes sustainable carpets that are soft; add comfort to rooms and other spaces inside the home Compatible with a variety of fibre and carpet dyeing techniques, Sorona offers unlimited design possibilities—from rich colours to printability that allows for beautiful, customized details The unique structure of Sorona makes carpet incredibly durable Carpets re-sist matting because the fibres are crush resistant and retain their shape and texture This high level of carpet durability is perfect for commercial spaces.

Sorona delivers the resiliency of nylon combined with the softness of ester It is quick-drying, durable, easy to clean, and it holds rich, vibrant col-ours fast It can help auto manufacturers meet their sustainable design goals It has lower moisture content, so seat covers, door trim, and headliners dry quickly, making them easy to clean Quick-drying automotive fabric made with Sorona discourages the development of mildew and odour, for fresher auto interior air.

Sorona delivers comfort stretch, which provides freedom of movement in denim fabrics It retains both the individual shape and personalized fit of denim garments even after frequent washes Stretch denim fabric with Sorona recovers better than other stretch fibres So denim apparel, especially jeans, maintains its shape with no bagging at the knees, elbows or other areas It is easy to dye and does not break down in the chemical and enzymatic washes.

Sorona is breathable and soft, human-friendly like cotton and linen It stretches effortlessly, and then resumes its original shape Sorona contains 37%

Bio-polymers derived from renewable plant sources 33renewably-sourced (plant-based) material by weight It offers high performance ready-to-wear that consumes less non-renewable energy to produce when com-pared to alternative materials like nylon Its production also results in reduced greenhouse gas emissions when compared with an equal amount of nylon.

Swimwear made with Sorona makes fabrics UV and chlorine resistant, brantly colourful, fast drying and incredibly soft When exposed to chlorin-ated water, Sorona offers excellent colour fastness It also offers superior resistance to fading caused by the sun It keeps swimwear looking colourful and bright.

Sorona is used in Cervical Rotating Biopsy Punch This grade is a 15% glass filled grade of Sorona EP providing high strength and stiffness Further at-tributes of Sorona useful in this application include resistance to gamma ster-ilisation and excellent dimensional stability The Cervical Rotating Biopsy Punch is used to take a tissue sample from patients undergoing cervical can-cer biopsies for cell analysis by microscopy Sorona is used in the handle and trigger mechanism to hold the rear hand left and right, front handle, con-nector pin, rotational controller and the rotational controller with chamfer These parts are used to activate a spring, driving the inner rod which, inserts and generates a clamping force to cut the tissue sample The Cervical Biopsy Punch with Rotation from DTR Medical is designed for single-use, which eliminates cross contamination that occurs when re-using hard-to-clean in-struments and saves considerable time and cost incurred by sterilising the equipment for re-use.

4.5 Conclusion

Polytrimethylene terephthalate is a bio-polymer made of corn plant and the manufacture of this bio-polymer is used in many applications It reduces the usage of fossil fuels to some extent as it comprises of natural renewable plant starch.

1 www.dupont.com2 www.wikipedia.com3 www.googleweblight.com4 www.textile-tech.com

Design and development of eco-friendly nebuliser face mask

K Amutha and R Priyanka

Department of Textiles and Apparel Design, Bharathiar University, Coimbatore.E-mail: ammusuman@rediffmail.com

Abstract: Asthma is one of the most common chronic diseases, with an estimated 300 million individuals affected worldwide When it is treated the right way, people with

asthma can live active lives Nebuliser is one of the treatments given to asthma patient in the hospitals A nebuliser is a device driven by a compressed air machine It allows patients to take medicine in the form of a mist (wet aerosol) It consists of a cup, a mouthpiece or mask attached to a T-shaped part, and a thin, plastic tubing to connect to the nebuliser machine There are many chances for infection without proper cleaning of nebuliser plastic face mask In order to overcome this problem, the current study aspires to develop fabric nebuliser face mask which is both eco-friendly and disposable For this, cotton twill weave fabric has been chosen and designed separately for adult and child and made into mask In order to impart stiffness, the masks are finished with starch extract The developed mask was taken to a chosen hospital and consulted with the doctor and feedback collected from patients The feedback reveals that the patients are more comfortable and feel very hygienic while using the designed fabric face mask Also, the cost of fabric mask is cheap and affordable by the patients.

Keywords: asthma, nebuliser treatment, face mask, cotton fabric, disposable,

hy-gienic, medical textile.

5.1 Introduction

Medical textile is an important product category within technical textiles It is one of the most important, continuously expanding and growing field in tech-nical textiles The hygiene products have immense market potential The med-ical textile industry has diversified with new products and innovative designs Depending upon the nature of the application, many textile products are dis-posable The textile materials are very important in all aspects of medicine, surgery, hygiene and all the range and extent of application to which these are used is a reflection of their enormous versatility Asthma is one of the common lungs problem which affect both adult and children Nebulisation is one of the