BS EN 15151-1:2012 BSI Standards Publication Mountaineering equipment — Braking devices Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods BS EN 15151-1:2012 BRITISH STANDARD National foreword This British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 15151-1:2012 The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to Technical Committee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other Recreational Equipment - Mountaineering Equipment A list of organizations represented on this committee can be obtained on request to its secretary This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract Users are responsible for its correct application © The British Standards Institution 2012 Published by BSI Standards Limited 2012 ISBN 978 580 70901 ICS 97.220.40 Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity from legal obligations This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 August 2012 Amendments issued since publication Date Text affected BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1 EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM August 2012 ICS 97.220.40 English Version Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Dispositifs de freinage - Partie 1: Freins d'assurage avec blocage assisté de la main, exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bremsgeräte - Teil 1: Bremsgeräte mit manuell unterstützter Verriegelung, sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 30 June 2012 CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German) A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels © 2012 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members Ref No EN 15151-1:2012: E BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Contents Page Foreword 3 Scope 4 Normative references 4 Terms and definitions 4 4.1 4.2 Classification 5 General 5 Braking device with manually assisted locking 5 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 Safety requirements 6 General 6 Blocking load 7 Static strength 7 Dynamic performance when belaying 7 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5 6.5.1 6.5.2 6.6 6.6.1 6.6.2 6.7 6.7.1 6.7.2 Test methods 8 General 8 Test conditions 8 Sampling 8 Design .8 Blocking load 8 Apparatus .8 Procedure .9 Static strength 10 Apparatus 10 Procedure 11 Dynamic performance when belaying 11 Apparatus 11 Procedure 12 Marking 13 Information supplied by the manufacturer 13 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment 15 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC 16 Bibliography 17 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Foreword This document (EN 15151-1:2012) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2013, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by February 2013 Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA which is an integral part of this document This European Standard, EN 15151 "Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices", consists of: Part 1: Braking devices with assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods; Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test methods This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment (see Annex A) According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for braking devices with manually assisted locking used in mountaineering, climbing and related activities for belaying, with manually assisted locking function, to protect against falls from a height and/or for abseiling with speed regulation This European Standard applies to braking devices which are loaded with one person and which use mountaineering ropes according to EN 892 In case of abseiling and lowering down, this standard also applies to braking devices, used with low stretch kernmantel ropes according to EN 1891 It does not apply to manual braking devices which are addressed in EN 15151-2:2012, nor to fully automatic fixed installations Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application For dated references, only the edition cited applies For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies EN 892, Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes — Safety requirements and test methods EN 1891, Personal protective equipment for the prevention of falls from a height — Low stretch kernmantel ropes EN 15151-2:2012, Mountaineering equipment — Braking devices — Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test methods EN ISO 139:2005, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139:2005) Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply 3.1 braking device mechanical device, which generates forces on the rope to oppose movement of the rope through the device 3.2 braking device with manually assisted locking braking device, that produces a change in its geometry once a certain hand braking force is applied to the free end of the rope, such that the hand braking force is amplified to slow down the rope movement through the device until arrest 3.3 panic locking element integral part of the braking device, which stops the rope moving through the device when abseiling or lowering a body, whereby it may prevent uncontrolled rope movement resulting from user operation beyond the control parameters 3.4 attachment point part of the braking device, which is required and intended for the attachment of a connector to connect the user according to the information supplied by the manufacturer Note to entry: For information on connectors, see EN 12275 or EN 362 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Classification 4.1 General Figure gives the classification of braking devices used in mountaineering, climbing and related activities Braking devices with manually assisted locking are classified according to 4.2 Manual braking devices are defined in EN 15151-2:2012, 4.2 Key A abseiling B belaying Figure — Classification of braking devices 4.2 Braking device with manually assisted locking 4.2.1 Type 5: devices for abseiling without a panic locking element; 4.2.2 Type 6: devices for belaying and abseiling without a panic locking element; 4.2.3 Type 7: devices for abseiling with a panic locking element; 4.2.4 Type 8: devices for belaying and abseiling with a panic locking element BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Safety requirements 5.1 General 5.1.1 An overview of the requirements related to the various types of braking device with manually assisted locking is given in Table Requirements for manual braking devices are given in EN 15151-2 Table — Overview of requirements related to various types of braking devices with manually assisted locking Clause 5.1.2 Requirements Rope diameter/ rope type Type Type Type Type 5.1 General — x x x x 5.2 Blocking load Minimum/maximum EN 892 and/or EN 1891 x x x x x x x x — x — x 5.3 Static strength Minimum/maximum EN 892 5.4 Dynamic performance when belaying Minimum/maximum EN 892 The attachment point or points shall be capable of accommodating a bar of a diameter of (13 ) mm The edges of all openings shall be as shown in Figure +0,1 Dimensions in millimetres a) bevelled edges b) rounded edges Figure — Edges of openings BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) 5.1.3 Braking devices shall not have any sharp or rough edges that may cut, abrade or otherwise damage ropes or cause injury to the user 5.1.4 When in use as described in the information supplied by the manufacturer, it shall not be possible to detach the rope from the device without at least two consecutive deliberate manual actions 5.1.5 Braking devices shall be designed to operate with ropes in the diameter range as specified in the information supplied by the manufacturer 5.2 Blocking load This requirement shall apply to braking devices types to When tested in accordance with 6.5, the test shall be carried out with ropes of the minimum diameter of each type of rope specified in the manufacturer's instructions for use The braking device shall be blocked in a ( hands-free position and loaded with a force of + 0,1 ) kN, and shall sustain the load for (1 ) with a +0,5 maximum slippage of 300 mm of the rope through the braking device After these tests, there shall be no damage to the braking device or to the rope Check by visual examination The test shall be repeated with ropes of the maximum diameter of each type of rope specified in the manufacturer's instructions for use If the device is intended for use with twin ropes, it shall be tested with two strands When (a) panic locking element(s) is (are) present, the same requirement shall be met for each activated panic locking element(s) 5.3 Static strength This requirement shall apply to braking devices types to When tested with the minimum and maximum rope diameter in accordance with 6.6.2, with the braking device ( blocked, the braking device shall withstand a force of ( device for 60 +5 + 0,5 ) kN applied to each attachment point of the ) s and shall not break or release the loaded rope If the device is intended for use with twin ropes, it shall be tested with two strands 5.4 Dynamic performance when belaying This requirement shall apply to braking devices types and When tested in accordance with 6.7, the falling mass shall not be released The average slippage of the rope through the braking device, calculated from the results of three tests, shall not exceed 500 mm measured on the loaded side of the rope The maximum value of any of the three tests shall not exceed 800 mm Check that the test mass can be lowered to the ground in accordance with the information supplied by the manufacturer If the device is intended for use with twin ropes, it shall be tested with two strands BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Test methods 6.1 General The braking device shall be tested in all configurations of use as specified in the information supplied by the manufacturer 6.2 Test conditions Carry out the tests at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C The rope for the test in 5.4 shall be conditioned according to EN ISO 139:2005, 3.2 (standard alternative atmosphere) 6.3 Sampling Use a new rope for each test, as specified in Table A new braking device may be used for each of the tests specified in 6.5, 6.6 and 6.7 6.4 6.4.1 Design ( Check the requirement as specified in 5.1.2 by using a bar of 13 +0,1 ) mm diameter 6.4.2 Confirm by reference to appropriate documentation accompanying the braking device and rope(s) and by normal or corrected vision and/or tactile examination and operation of the braking device and the rope(s) that they conform to 5.1.3 and 5.1.4 Dismantle the braking device if necessary to examine internal components This test method shall apply to all types of braking devices 6.5 6.5.1 Blocking load Apparatus Place the braking device in the test apparatus as shown in Figure BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Dimensions in millimetres Key anchor point rope F braking device load cell force Figure — Apparatus for blocking load test 6.5.2 Procedure ( Put the braking device in blocking position and load it progressively within to with the attachment point Keep the load for (1 ) + 0,1 ) kN to +0,5 Test the blocking positions as specified in 5.2 Put a mark on the outgoing rope at the exit point of the device before loading Measure after loading the distance of the mark from the exit point of the device BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) When a panic locking element is present, repeat the test with the panic element engaged in accordance with the information supplied by the manufacturer After the test, check visually if any damage occurred to the braking device and/or rope that would affect the function of the device and/or the rope 6.6 6.6.1 Static strength Apparatus The test apparatus is shown in Figure Dimensions in millimetres Key anchor point(s) rope braking device F stopper knot with plate (Examples see Figures and 6) load cell force Figure — Apparatus for testing static strength of braking device with manually assisted locking 10 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Figure — Stopper knot Dimensions in millimetres Figure — Example of a stopper plate 6.6.2 Procedure Attach the braking device to the rope in accordance with the information supplied by the manufacturer and position the assembly as shown in Figure Connect the outgoing end of the rope with a fixed anchor point Fix the incoming end of the rope, e.g with stopper knots (see Figure 5) or clamps, in such a way that it cannot run into the device (see Figure 4) If necessary, an appropriate stopper plate (see Figure for example) may be attached above the stopper knot or clamp Ensure that the design of the stopper device is such that it does not affect the strength of the braking device Apply the force in accordance with 5.3 within to to the attachment point and keep it for at least If the manufacturer recommends more than one possibility of use, each one shall be tested with a new sample and a new rope 6.7 6.7.1 Dynamic performance when belaying Apparatus Position the braking device in a test apparatus as shown in Figure If the instructions for use supplied by the manufacturer states that the device has different positions of functioning, each position shall be tested 11 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Dimensions in millimetres Key braking device test mass free end of rope rope Figure — Dynamic performance when belaying 6.7.2 Procedure Use a rope with the minimum diameter as specified in the information supplied by the manufacturer A new braking device may be used and a new rope shall be used for each of the tests The test will be made with a mass of (80 ± 0,1) kg Connect the rope to the mass with a figure-of-eight knot Tighten the knot by hand; the inner length of the eye of the knot shall be (50 ± 10) mm Pretension (1 200 ± 50) mm of the rope by keeping the mass hanging for ( 60 + 15 ) s Unload the rope from the mass and insert the rope into the device, then lift the mass to (1 000 ± 20) mm above the point where the rope leaves the device The vertical position of the mass is defined here as the position of the lowest point of contact of the rope with the mass Straighten the rope by pulling it by hand on the other side of the device; ensure that the device is kept in its natural hanging position Mark the rope where it leaves the device The length of the free end of the rope vertically hanging below the device shall be (2 000 ± 20) mm The total length of the end rope shall be at least 800 mm The distance between the line of fall of its centre of gravity and the line representing the axis of a rope hanging vertically below the device shall be less than 300 mm Release the test mass within Measure the slippage of the rope through the braking device with the load still applied The measurement shall be made within 60 s The measurement results shall be given in mm 12 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Repeat the test with a rope of the maximum diameter as specified in the information supplied by the manufacturer A new braking device may be used and a new rope shall be used for each of the tests After the test, check visually that the test mass is suspended by the braking device Check that the test mass can be lowered to the ground in accordance with the information supplied by the manufacturer Marking Braking devices shall be marked clearly, indelibly and durably, including at least the following: a) name of the manufacturer or its authorized representative in the Community; NOTE For a definition of manufacturer and authorized representative, see Regulation 765/2008 b) the number of this European Standard, EN 15151-1; c) model identifier (if several models are marketed by the manufacturer); d) minimum and maximum diameters of the rope(s), in millimetres, to one decimal place; e) the following pictogram, instructing the user to see the information supplied by the manufacturer; Figure f) visual indication of correct placement of the rope Information supplied by the manufacturer The belaying and abseiling device shall be supplied with an explanatory leaflet, written in at least the official language(s) of the country of destination and containing at least the following items: a) name and address of the manufacturer or its authorized representative; b) number of this European Standard, i.e EN 15151-1; c) definition of the braking device according to the classification in 4.2; d) description of the device's characteristics and of the intended use, including: 1) information that the use of the braking device is intended for mountaineering, climbing and related activities; 2) advice that the product should only be used by trained and/or otherwise competent persons or the user should be under the direct supervision of a trained and/or competent person; 3) advice on how attachment should be made to any connecting component or sub-system (e.g for anchoring, belaying, ascending, abseiling or in a rescue situation); 13 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) 4) advice to the user that the braking effect will be dependent on the rope diameter, slipperiness of the rope, whether the rope is wet, and other factors; 5) advice to the user that it is the responsibility of the user to familiarize himself with the braking effect available before each use; 6) advice to the user that the free end of the rope shall be controlled by hand at all times; 7) minimum and maximum diameters of the rope(s), in millimetres, to one decimal place and type of rope(s) with a statement, that commercially stated rope diameters have a tolerance up to ± 0,2 mm Rope diameters and other characteristics may vary with use; 8) explanation of the meaning of any markings on the product; 9) information on how to maintain and service the product; 10) information on the lifespan of the product or how to assess it; 11) information on the effects of storage and ageing; 12) instruction for the choice of other suitable components for use in the system; 13) advice on the importance of checking the braking device regularly for any damage during use and the necessity to withdraw it from use if any damage or defect is found; 14) advice on the effects of chemical reagents with which the product might come into contact; 15) advice on the effects of humidity, wet and icy conditions 14 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Table A.1 - List of standards on mountaineering equipment No Document Title EN 564 Mountaineering equipment — Accessory cord — Safety requirements and test methods EN 565 Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods EN 566 Mountaineering equipment — Slings — Safety requirements and test methods EN 567 Mountaineering equipment — Rope clamps — Safety requirements and test methods EN 568 Mountaineering equipment — Ice anchors — Safety requirements and test methods EN 569 Mountaineering equipment — Pitons — Safety requirements and test methods EN 892 Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes – Safety requirements and test methods EN 893 Mountaineering equipment — Crampons — Safety requirements and test methods EN 958 Mountaineering equipment — Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing — Safety requirements and test methods 10 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment — Rock anchors — Safety requirements and test methods 11 EN 12270 Mountaineering equipment — Chocks — Safety requirements and test methods 12 EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods 13 EN 12276 Mountaineering equipment — Frictional anchors — Safety requirements and test methods 14 EN 12277 Mountaineering equipment — Harnesses — Safety requirements and test methods 15 EN 12278 Mountaineering equipment — Pulleys — Safety requirements and test methods 16 EN 12492 Mountaineering equipment — requirements and test methods 17 EN 13089 Mountaineering equipment — Ice-tools — Safety requirements and test methods 18 EN 15151-1 Mountaineering equipment — Braking devices — Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods 19 EN 15151-2 Mountaineering equipment — Braking devices — Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test methods Helmets for mountaineers — Safety 15 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC This European standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to provide a means of conforming to Essential Requirements of the New Approach Directive 89/686/EEC on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to personal protective equipment Once this standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union under that Directive and has been implemented as a national standard in at least one Member State, compliance with the clauses of this standard given in Table ZA.1 confers, within the limits of the scope of this standard, a presumption of conformity with the corresponding Essential Requirements of that Directive and associated EFTA regulations Table ZA.1 — Correspondence between this European Standard and Directive 89/686/EEC Clause(s)/sub -clause(s) of this EN 5.1.3, 5.1.4, 5.2, 5.4, 5.1.2 5.1.3 Essential Requirements (ERs) of Directive 89/686/EEC 1.2.1 Absence of risks and other inherent nuisance factors 1.2.1.2 Satisfactory surface condition of all PPE parts in contact with the user 5.3 1.3.2 Lightness and design strength 7, 1.4 Information supplied by the manufacturer 2.12 PPE bearing one or more identification or recognition marks directly or indirectly relating to health and safety 5.1.4; 5.2; 5.4 Qualifying remarks/ Notes 3.1.2.2 Prevention of falls from a height Manually assisted braking devices according to this standard are only one part of the safety chain and should be used in conjunction with other compatible equipment WARNING - Other requirements and other EU Directives may be applicable to the product(s) falling within the scope of this standard 16 BS EN 15151-1:2012 EN 15151-1:2012 (E) Bibliography [1] EN 362, Personal protective equipment against falls from a height — Connectors [2] EN 12275, Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods [3] Regulation 765/2008 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of July 2008 setting out the requirements for accreditation and market surveillance relating to the marketing of products and repealing Regulation (EEC) No 339/93 17 This page deliberately left blank This page deliberately left blank NO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW British Standards Institution (BSI) BSI is the national body responsible for preparing British Standards and other standards-related publications, information and services BSI is incorporated by Royal Charter British Standards and other standardization products are published by BSI Standards Limited About us Revisions We bring together business, industry, government, consumers, innovators and others to shape their combined experience and expertise into standards -based solutions Our British Standards and other publications are updated by amendment or revision The knowledge embodied in our standards has been carefully assembled in a dependable format and refined through our open consultation process Organizations of all sizes and across all sectors choose standards to help them achieve their goals Information on standards We can provide you with the knowledge that your organization needs to succeed Find out more about British Standards by visiting our website at bsigroup.com/standards or contacting our Customer Services team or Knowledge Centre Buying standards You can buy and download PDF versions of BSI publications, including British and adopted European and international standards, through our website at bsigroup.com/shop, where hard copies can also be purchased If you need international and foreign standards from other Standards Development Organizations, hard copies can be ordered from our Customer Services team Subscriptions Our range of subscription services are designed to make using standards easier for you For further information on our subscription products go to bsigroup.com/subscriptions With British Standards Online (BSOL) you’ll have instant access to over 55,000 British and adopted European and international standards from your desktop It’s available 24/7 and is refreshed daily so you’ll always be up to date You can keep in touch with standards developments and receive substantial discounts on the purchase price of standards, both in single copy and subscription format, by becoming a BSI Subscribing Member PLUS is an updating service exclusive to BSI Subscribing Members You will automatically receive the latest hard copy of your standards when they’re revised or replaced To find out more about becoming a BSI Subscribing Member and the benefits of membership, please visit bsigroup.com/shop With a Multi-User Network Licence (MUNL) you are able to host standards publications on your intranet Licences can cover as few or as many users as you wish With updates supplied as soon as they’re available, you can be sure your documentation is current For further information, email bsmusales@bsigroup.com BSI Group Headquarters 389 Chiswick High Road London W4 4AL UK We continually improve the quality of our products and services to benefit your business If you find an inaccuracy or ambiguity within a British Standard or other BSI publication please inform the Knowledge Centre Copyright All the data, software and documentation set out in all British Standards and other BSI publications are the property of and copyrighted by BSI, or some person or entity that owns copyright in the information used (such as the international standardization bodies) and has formally licensed such information to BSI for commercial publication and use Except as permitted under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 no extract may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means – electronic, photocopying, recording or otherwise – without prior written permission from BSI Details and advice can be obtained from the Copyright & Licensing Department Useful Contacts: Customer Services Tel: +44 845 086 9001 Email (orders): orders@bsigroup.com Email (enquiries): cservices@bsigroup.com Subscriptions Tel: +44 845 086 9001 Email: subscriptions@bsigroup.com Knowledge Centre Tel: +44 20 8996 7004 Email: knowledgecentre@bsigroup.com Copyright & Licensing Tel: +44 20 8996 7070 Email: copyright@bsigroup.com