BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 BS EN 13089:2011 BSI Standards Publication Mountaineering equipment — Ice-tools — Safety requirements and test methods BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 BRITISH STANDARD National foreword This British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 It supersedes BS EN 13089:2011 which is withdrawn The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags Tags indicating changes to CEN text carry the number of the CEN amendment For example, text altered by CEN amendment A1 is indicated by The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted by Technical Committee SW/136, Sports, playground and other recreational equipment, to Subcommittee SW/136/5, Sports, Playground and other Recreational Equipment – Mountaineering Equipment A list of organizations represented on this subcommittee can be obtained on request to its secretary This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract Users are responsible for its correct application © The British Standards Institution 2015 Published by BSI Standards Limited 2015 ISBN 978 580 87327 ICS 97.220.40 Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity from legal obligations This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 March 2011 Amendments/corrigenda issued since publication Date Text affected Implementation of CEN amendment A1:2015 EUROPEAN STANDARD EN 13089:2011+A1 NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM April 2015 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:2011 English Version Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils glace Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on February 2011 and includes Amendment approved by CEN on 19 March 2015 CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German) A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels © 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members Ref No EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 E BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Contents Page Foreword Introduction Scope Normative references Terms and definitions 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 Safety requirements Edges Shaft strength Strength in the load direction YY Strength in the load direction XX Pick strength 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.3.1 5.3.2 5.3.3 5.3.4 5.3.5 5.3.6 Test methods Preparation of test samples Apparatus .7 Procedure .7 Test sample Edges Shaft strength Strength in the load direction YY Strength in the load direction XX Pick strength 10 Marking 11 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer 12 Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment 13 Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC 14 BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Foreword This document (EN 13089:2011+A1:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2015, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by October 2015 Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights This document supersedes !EN 13089:2011" This document includes Amendment approved by CEN on 2015-03-19 The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !" This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been made: a) an editorial revision has been carried on; b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls; c) there is a new classification of ice-tools; d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted; e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised; f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted; g) there is an additional marking According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Introduction This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations" d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document For dated references, only the edition cited applies For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies EN 565, Mountaineering equipment ― Tape ― Safety requirements and test methods Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply 3.1 ice-tool hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick NOTE See Figure 3.2 type ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.3 type ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice 3.4 type pick pick intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.5 type pick pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Key Shaft of the ice-tool Pick of the ice-tool Figure — Main parts of an ice-tool 4.1 Safety requirements Edges All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs The shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges 4.2 Shaft strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed mm or the calculated fK value 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX When tested in the load direction XX (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.5, a) the shaft shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose; BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 10 mm after removal of the load Key Pick Shaft XX/YY Load directions Figure — Load directions XX and YY 4.5 Pick strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.6, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose; c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force shall not exceed 70 mm or the calculated fK value after removal of the force Test methods 5.1 Preparation of test samples For the strength tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 the test samples shall be conditioned for at least h at (– 30 ± 5) °C The tests shall be carried out at (23 ± 5) °C Each test shall begin within from removal from conditioning 5.2 Apparatus For the tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 use a tape in accordance with EN 565 with a width of (15 ± 2) mm 5.3 5.3.1 Procedure Test sample Carry out each test on a test sample not previously subjected to any load BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 5.3.2 Edges Check by visual and tactile examination that the requirements of 4.1 are met 5.3.3 Shaft strength Support the shaft horizontally and load it in the direction XX as shown in Figure Dimensions in millimetres Key Tape Figure — Testing of shaft strength If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange the tapes as shown in Figure with the load applied at the mid length of the ice-tool Apply a force of F = (2 500 +125 0) N without shock and maintain for (60 ± 5) s If the ice tool is not long enough, reduce the 250 mm to "lk" lk shall be as long as possible in reducing steps of 10 mm Then calculate the force Fk to be applied as follows: Fk = F × 250/lk (1) Calculate the maximum permissible permanent deformation fk in mm as follows: fk = × (lk/250) (2) where lk is the distance in mm from the middle of the shaft to the middle of the outer tapes, being positioned at the ends of the shaft During the test, according to the shape of the shaft, the ice-tool may turn If so, carry out the test in the stable position attained after rotation For a straight shaft, rotation shall be prevented If the ice-tool is fitted with a telescopic shaft, carry out the test at the length stated in the manufacturer's instructions for use as an anchor point for belaying in snow BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY Support and load the test samples as shown in Figure Dimensions in millimetres Key Tape a Point K Figure — Testing of strength in the load direction YY If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange a tape as shown in Figure with the force applied at 500 mm from point K in the direction YY Apply a force of: F = ( 600 +30 ) N for type ice-tool, F = ( 900 +45 ) N for type ice-tool, without shock and maintain for (60 ± 5) s If the ice-tool is not long enough reduce the 500 mm to lk Then calculate the force Fk to be applied as follows: Fk = F × 500/lk (3) where lk is the distance in mm from point K to the middle of the tape, being positioned at the end of the shaft Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force and determine by manual inspection if any component of the ice tool worked loose 5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX Support the test sample by means of a tape loop and a rounded stop as shown in Figure 5, so that the ice-tool pick lies normal to the direction of the applied force Ensure that rotation of the test sample is prevented BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Dimensions in millimetres Key Tape loop of 50 mm width Tape Figure — Testing of the strength in the load direction XX The line of application of the force shall be at (100 +2 ) mm from the nearest edge of the supporting tape (see Figure 5) Apply a force of: F = ( 2500 +125 F = ( 4000 +200 0) ) N for type ice-tools, N for type ice-tools, without shock and maintain for (60 ± 5) s Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force and determine by manual inspection if any component of the ice tool worked loose 5.3.6 Pick strength Clamp the test sample between two vice jaws with a hardness greater than that of the test sample, with an edge radius of (2 ± 0,1) mm and a depth of (25 ± 0,2) mm as shown in Figure If the pick is not flat in cross-section, the manufacturer may provide clamps, provided these clamps not artificially increase the apparent strength of the pick Set the shaft such that a line drawn between the mid-points of the ends of the shaft is parallel to the upper edges of the vice jaws Apply without shock a moment of: 10 T = ( 42 +2,1 T = ( 60 +3 ) Nm for type pick, ) Nm for type pick, BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) on a test sample with a lever length of ( 330 +3 ) mm and maintain for (60 ± 5) s If a lever of length 330 mm is not achievable, use the longest possible lever length, lk If the lever length of 330 mm is not achievable, calculate the maximum permissible permanent deformation f k in mm as follows: fk = 70 lk 330 (4) Dimensions in millimetres Key Mid points of the ends of the shaft Point of application of the load a= b l lever length Figure — Clamping of pick Measure the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force and determine by manual inspection if any component of the ice tool worked loose Marking !Ice-tools shall be marked clearly, indelibly and durably with at least the following: a) name of the manufacturer or its authorized representative in the European Union; b) category to which the ice-tool belongs in accordance with 3.2 and 3.3: 1) for non-interchangeable picks: i) if the shaft and the pick are type 2, a "T" surrounded by a circle of minimum 10 mm on the shaft; ii) no category marking in any other case; 11 BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 2) for interchangeable picks: i) if the shaft is type 2, a "T" surrounded by a circle of minimum 10 mm on the shaft; ii) if the pick is type 2, a "T" surrounded by a circle of minimum 10 mm on the pick; iii) no category marking in any other case; c) the following pictogram, instructing the user to see the information supplied by the manufacturer: Figure 7" Information to be supplied by the manufacturer The ice-tool shall be supplied with an explanatory leaflet, and written in at least the official language(s) of the state of destination within the European Community containing at least the following items: a) name and address of the manufacturer or its authorized representative in the European Union; b) number of this European Standard: EN 13089; c) !meaning of any markings on the product, e g explanation of type marking, if necessary;" d) use of the product; e) how to choose other components for use in the system; f) how to maintain and service the product; g) lifespan of the product; h) effects of chemical reagents and temperature on the product 12 BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment Table A.1 — List of standards on mountaineering equipment N° Document Title EN 564 Mountaineering equipment — Accessory cord — Safety requirements and test methods EN 565 Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods EN 566 Mountaineering equipment — Slings — Safety requirements and test methods EN 567 Mountaineering equipment — Rope clamps — Safety requirements and test methods EN 568 Mountaineering equipment — Ice anchors — Safety requirements and test methods EN 569 Mountaineering equipment — Pitons — Safety requirements and test methods EN 892 Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes — Safety requirements and test methods EN 893 Mountaineering equipment — Crampons — Safety requirements and test methods EN 958 Mountaineering equipment — Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing — Safety requirements and test methods 10 EN 959 Mountaineering equipment — Rock anchors — Safety requirements and test methods 11 EN 12270 Mountaineering equipment — Chocks — Safety requirements and test methods 12 EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods 13 EN 12276 Mountaineering equipment — Frictional anchors — Safety requirements and test methods 14 EN 12277 Mountaineering equipment — Harnesses — Safety requirements and test methods 15 EN 12278 Mountaineering equipment — Pulleys — Safety requirements and test methods 16 EN 12492 Mountaineering equipment — Helmets for mountaineers — Safety requirements and for test methods 17 EN 13089 Mountaineering equipment — Ice-tools — Safety requirements and test methods 18 prEN 15151-1 Mountaineering equipment — Braking devices — Part 1: Braking devices with assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods 19 prEN 15151-2 Mountaineering equipment — Braking devices — Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test methods 13 BS EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association to provide a means of conforming to Essential Requirements of the New Approach Directive 89/686/EEC on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to personal protective equipment Once this standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union under that Directive and has been implemented as a national standard in at least one Member State, compliance with the clauses of this standard given in Table ZA.1 confers, within the limits of the scope of this standard, a presumption of conformity with the corresponding Essential Requirements of that Directive and associated EFTA regulations Table ZA.1 — Correspondence between this European Standard and Directive 89/686/EEC Clause(s)/ subclause(s) of this EN Essential Requirements (ERs) of Directive 89/686/EEC 4.1 1.2.1.2 Satisfactory surface condition of all PPE parts in contact with the user 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5 1.3.2 Lightness and design strength Clause 6, Clause Information supplied by the manufacturer 1.4 Qualifying remarks/ Notes WARNING — Other requirements and other EU Directives may be applicable to the products falling within the scope of this standard 14 This page deliberately left blank NO COPYING WITHOUT BSI PERMISSION EXCEPT AS PERMITTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW British Standards Institution (BSI) BSI is the national body responsible for preparing British Standards and other standards-related publications, information and services BSI is incorporated by Royal Charter British Standards and other standardization products are published by BSI Standards Limited About us Revisions We bring together business, industry, government, 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