On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 461

liquid except perfume has become more highly valued”; the best, from mackerel only, came from Roman outposts in Spain Garum was made by salting the fish innards, letting the mixture ferment in the sun for several months until the flesh had mostly fallen apart, and then straining the brown liquid It was used as an ingredient in cooked dishes and as a sauce at the table, sometimes mixed with wine or vinegar (oenogarum, oxygarum) Some form of garum is called for in nearly every savory recipe in the late Roman recipe collection attributed to Apicius Preparations like garum persisted in the Mediterranean through the 16th century, then died out as the modern-day, solid version of garum rose to prominence: saltcured but innard-free anchovies Preliminary Salting and Drying Nowadays, fish destined for the smoker are generally soaked in a strong brine for a few hours to days, long enough to pick up a little salt (a few percent, not enough to inhibit microbial spoilage) This also draws to the surface some of the proteins in the muscle fiber, notably myosin When the fish is hung and allowed to drip dry, the sticky layer of dissolved myosin on the surface forms a shiny gel or pellicle that will give the smoked fish an attractive golden sheen (The gold color is created by browning reactions between aldehydes in the smoke and amino acids in the pellicle, as well as condensation of dark resins from the smoke vapor.) Cold and Hot Smoking The initial smoking (often using sawdust, which can produce more smoke at a lower temperature than intact wood) takes place at a relatively cool temperature around 85ºF/30ºC, which avoids hardening the surface and forming a barrier to moisture movement from the interior This also allows the fish flesh to lose some ... browning reactions between aldehydes in the smoke and amino acids in the pellicle, as well as condensation of dark resins from the smoke vapor.) Cold and Hot Smoking The initial smoking (often using sawdust, which can produce more... When the fish is hung and allowed to drip dry, the sticky layer of dissolved myosin on the surface forms a shiny gel or pellicle that will give the smoked fish an attractive golden sheen (The gold color is created by...days, long enough to pick up a little salt (a few percent, not enough to inhibit microbial spoilage) This also draws to the surface some of the proteins in the muscle fiber, notably myosin When the fish is hung and allowed to