how long it has been in transit, or how it has been handled So it’s important to be able to recognize good-quality fish when we see it But looks and smell can be deceiving Even perfectly fresh fish may not be of the best quality if it has been caught in a depleted state after spawning So the ideal solution is to find a knowledgeable and reliable fish merchant who knows the seasonality of fish quality, and buys accordingly Such a merchant is also more likely to be selective about his suppliers, and less likely to sell seafood that’s past its prime It’s preferable to have fillets and steaks cut to order from a whole fish, because cutting immediately exposes new surfaces to microbes and the air Old cut surfaces will be stale and smelly Handling Freshly Killed Fish Sport fishermen may not get around to cooking their catch until it has already begun to stiffen Fortunately, fish in rigor aren’t as tough as beef or pork would be It’s a mistake, however, to cut up a freshly killed, pre-rigor fish into steaks or fillets, and not either cook or freeze the pieces immediately If rigor develops in the pieces, the severed muscle fibers are free to contract, and they will shorten by as much as half into a corrugated, rubbery mass If instead the pieces are quickly frozen, and then allowed to thaw gradually so that the muscle energy stores slowly run down while the piece shapes are maintained by some ice crystals, this contraction can be mostly avoided In the case of a whole fish: The skin should be glossy and taut On less fresh fish it will be dull and wrinkled Color is not a helpful guide because many skin colors fade quickly after the fish dies If present, the natural proteinaceous ... fish into steaks or fillets, and not either cook or freeze the pieces immediately If rigor develops in the pieces, the severed muscle fibers are free to contract, and they will shorten by as much... instead the pieces are quickly frozen, and then allowed to thaw gradually so that the muscle energy stores slowly run down while the piece shapes are maintained by some ice crystals, this contraction can be mostly avoided... contraction can be mostly avoided In the case of a whole fish: The skin should be glossy and taut On less fresh fish it will be dull and wrinkled Color is not a helpful guide because many skin colors fade quickly after the fish dies