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Physical testing of textiles B P Saville

The Bextile Institue

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Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited

80 High Street, Sawston, Cambridge CB22 3HJ, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com

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First published 1999, Woodhead Publishing Limited Reprinted 2000, 2002, 2003, 2007, 2009, 2012 ‘© 1999, Woodhead Publishing Limited The author has asserted his moral rights

This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publisher cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials Neither the author nor the publisher, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book

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British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN 978-

ISBN 978- 85573-367-1 (print) 84569-015-1 (online)

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Contents Preface Acknowledgements Introduction

Reasons for textile testing

Checking raw materials

Monitoring production

Assessing the final product

Investigation of faulty material

Product development and research Standardisation of testing

Variation in the material

Variation caused by the test method Sampling

Terms used in sampling Fibre sampling from bulk

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vi 2 21 2.2 221 222 2322 23 2.3.1 23.2 2343 234 24 241 2.4.2 243 25 2.6 3 3.1 3.2 3.2.1 3.2.2 3.2.3 3.2.4 3.2.5 3.2.6 3.2.7 3.2.8 3.2.9 3.2.10 3.3 3.3.1 3.4 3.4.1 as 3.5.1 3.5.2 lô 3.5.4 Contents Textiles and moisture Introduction Effect of moisture on physical properties Dimensional Mechanical Electrical Atmospheric moisture Vapour pressure Relative humidity Standard atmosphere

Measurement of atmospheric moisture Regain and moisture content

Regain — humidity relations of textiles Factors affecting the regain

Methods of measuring regain

Correct invoice weight

Control of testing room atmosphere References Fibre dimensions Fibre fineness Fineness measurement Gravimetric

Fibre fineness by projection microscope Fibre fineness by the airflow method Cotton fineness by airflow

Cotton maturity

1C/Shirley fineness and maturity tester

Optical fibre diameter analyser Light-scattering methods Vibration method Wool quality Fibre length Mean length

Methods of measurement: direct methods

WIRA fibre length machine

Methods of measurement: tuft methods Cotton grading

Comb sorter

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3.5.5 3.5.6 3.6 41 411 412 4.143 414 4.1.5 4.2.1 422 443.1 432 4343 43.4 441 4.4.2 4443 45.1 46 4.6.1 4.6.2 SA 5.21 5.2.2 523 5.2.4 5.2.5 Contents WIRA fibre diagram machine Almeter High-volume instruments General reading References Yarn tests Linear density Direct system Indirect system Folded yarns

Measuring linear density

Linear density from a fabric sample Twist Level of twist Measuring twist Yarn evenness Visual examination

Cut and weigh methods

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5.8.1 5111 5.11.4 Contents Breaking length Elongation Strain Extension percentage Gauge length Force elongation curve Yield point Modulus Work of rupture Time dependence Elastic recovery

Factors affecting tensile testing Type of testing machine

Specimen length

Rate of loading and time to break

Effect of humidity and temperature

Previous history of the specimen Clamping problems Fibre strength Single fibre strength Bundle strength Yarn strength

‘Yarn strength: single strand method Yarn strength: skein method Fabric strength

Strip strength Grab test Tear tests

Measuring tearing strength Single rip tear test

Wing rip tear test Elmendorf tear tester

Bursting strength

Diaphragm bursting test

Ball bursting strength

Stretch and recovery properties Seam strength

Seam slippage

Seam slippage tests Fixed load method Upholstery seam slippage General reading