The Restaurants Book: Ethnographies of Where we Eat41430

The Restaurants Book This page intentionally left blank The Restaurants Book Ethnographies of Where We Eat Edited by David Beriss and David Sutton Oxford • New York English edition First published in 2007 by Berg Editorial offices: First Floor, Angel Court, 81 St Clements Street, Oxford OX4 1AW, UK 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010, USA © David Beriss and David Sutton 2007 Except Chapter 11, © Gerry Mars 2007 All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berg Berg is the imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data The restaurants book : ethnographies of where to eat / edited by David Beriss and David Sutton p cm Includes bibliographical references and index ISBN-13: 978-1-84520-754-0 (cloth) ISBN-10: 1-84520-754-8 (cloth) ISBN-13: 978-1-84520-755-7 (pbk.) ISBN-10: 1-84520-755-6 (pbk.) Food habits—United States Restaurants—United States—Social aspects United States—Social life and customs I Beriss, David II Sutton, David E (David Evan) GT2853.U5R47 2007 394.1'2—dc22 2007039584 British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978 84520 754 (Cloth) 978 84520 755 (Paper) Typeset by JS Typesetting Ltd, Porthcawl, Mid Glamorgan Printed in the United Kingdom by Biddles Ltd, King’s Lynn www.bergpublishers.com Contents List of Illustrations vii Acknowledgments ix Notes on Contributors xi Starter: Restaurants, Ideal Postmodern Institutions David Beriss and David Sutton Small Plates Tight Spaces and Salsa-stained Aprons: Bodies at Work in American Restaurants Karla Erickson 17 Forming Family Identity in an American Chinese Restaurant: One Person’s Transformational Process Michael Hernandez 25 Tasting Wisconsin: A Chef’s Story Amy Trubek 35 Mains Side Dish Kitchens: Japanese American Delicatessens and the Culture of Nostalgia Christine Yano 47 Familiarity, Ambience and Intentionality: An Investigation into Casual Dining Restaurants in Central Illinois Derek Pardue 65 Serving the Past on a Platter: Cultural Revolution Restaurants in Contemporary China Jennifer Hubbert 79 vi • Contents 10 11 Ethnic Succession and the New American Restaurant Cuisine Krishnendu Ray 97 From Khatchapuri to Gefilte Fish: Dining Out and Spectacle in Russian Jewish New York Eve Jochnowitz 115 Daughters, Duty and Deference in the Franco-Chinese Restaurant Winnie Lem 133 Authentic Creole: Tourism, Style and Calamity in New Orleans Restaurants David Beriss 151 Food, Family and Tradition in Northern Italy: The Rise and Fall of a Michelin-starred Family Restaurant Gerald Mars 167 Dessert 12 Tipping: An Anthropological Meditation David Sutton 191 Digestif: Postprandial Imaginings Michael Herzfeld 205 References 209 Author Index 229 Subject Index 235 Illustrations Figure S.1 Figure 2.1 Figure 2.2 Figure 2.3 Figure 4.1 Figure 4.2 Figure 5.1 Figure 5.2 Figure 9.1 Figure 10.1 Figure 12.1 Figure 12.2 Shrimp Po-Boy, Crabby Jack’s, New Orleans, LA Carmen at work Carmen at work Carmen oversees her son Okazuya in downtown Honolulu Okazuya in downtown Honolulu Aerial view of “North Prospect” area during the early construction years Construction sign posted in North Prospect area for further commercial construction in 1996 Le Prestige Galatoire’s Xtremebean Coffee Shop, Tempe, AZ The Surreptitious Tip: drawing by Samuel Rowe-Sutton 28 28 31 47 48 70 70 136 151 194 198 vii This page intentionally left blank Acknowledgments This collection began as a conference session organized for the American Anthropological Association meetings in 2004 When we first put out a call for papers under the “big tent” title of “Restaurants,” we were astounded by the response we received Over thirty inquiries resulted in more than twenty abstracts, which, with great difficulty, we winnowed down to twelve We did not try to have these papers “cover the territory.” We received submissions on restaurants in Burkina Faso, Malaysia and Dubai, on 4-star restaurants, diners and Chinese takeaways, but, surprisingly nothing on McDonalds or other fast-food chains We chose papers that were ethnographically grounded in the goings-on inside restaurants, or in restaurants’ relationships to larger communities The positive response suggested that our own fascination with restaurants was not idiosyncratic It indicated that perhaps the time for a book on the anthropology of restaurants had indeed arrived Unfortunately, the ill-fated 2004 meeting took its toll on the panel, with only three of the twelve papers being presented in Atlanta However, we had a lively discussion with panelists and audience members and were encouraged to proceed In the process, we lost a number of papers and added others Sadly, a number of our papers on restaurants in non-Western locations did not make it to the final version On the plus side, though, we were able to add papers that added disciplinary perspectives from sociology (Erickson) and anthropological history (Ray) In the course of these revisions, we received encouragement from a number of scholars, and would particularly like to thank Sidney Mintz and Susan Tax-Freeman Kathryn Earle, as always, provided warm encouragement, and Hannah Shakespeare was a most patient editor in the long process of submission and review, and they both deserve much thanks A number of colleagues offered advice in the editing process Thanks, in particular, go to Jeffrey Ehrenreich, Antonio Lauria, Linda Smith, Connie Sutton, Martha Ward and Peter Wogan Thanks, also, to Connie (mother of one editor, teacher of the other) for bringing us together to think about these issues in the first place Finally, thanks go to Mae Poblete, for her yeoman’s work as research assistant, to Kaitlin Fertaly for her proofreading, and to Aimee Hosemann and Qiaoyun “Janet” Zhang for their indexing A few chapters have appeared earlier in a different form A longer version of Chapter appeared as Erickson 2004; parts of Chapter appeared as Trubek 2004; and an earlier version of Chapter appeared in The China Review 5:2 (2005), pp ix 226 • References Weston, Kath (1995) Forever is a Long Time: Romancing the Real in Gay Kinship Ideologies In Naturalizing Power: Essays in Feminist Cultural Analysis, ed S Yanagisako and C Delaney, pp 87–110 London: Routledge Whitaker, Jan (2005) Domesticating the Restaurant: Marketing the Anglo-American Home In From Betty Crocker to Feminist Food Studies: Critical Perspectives on Women and Food, ed Arlene V Avakian and Barbara Haber, pp 89–105 Amherst, MA: University of Massachusetts Press Whyte, William Foote (1948) Human Relations in the Restaurant Industry New York: McGraw-Hill Wilson, Thomas (2005) Drinking Cultures: Alcohol and Identity Oxford: Berg Wong, Siu Lun (1988) The Applicability of Asian Family Values to Other Social Cultural Settings In In Search of an Asian Development Model ed Peter Berger and H H M Hsiao Oxford: Transaction Books Wong, Siu Lun (1996) Chinese Entrepreneurs and Business Trust In Asian Business Networks, ed Gary G Hamilton Berlin/New York: Walter de Gruyter Wu, Xu (2004) Ethnic Foods and Regional Identity: The Hezha Restaurants in Enshi Food and Foodways 12: 225–46 Yang, Fan (1991) Gongheguo de Disandai (The Third Generation of the Republic) Chengdu: Sichuan Renmin Chubanshe Yang, Guobin (2003) China’s Zhiqing Generation: Nostalgia, Identity and Cultural Resistance in the 1990s Modern China 29(3): 267–96 Yang, Mayfair (1994) Gifts, Favors and Banquets: The Art of Social Relationships in China Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press Yang, Mayfair (1999) From Gender Erasure to Gender Difference: State Feminism, Consumer Sexuality, and the Women’s Public Sphere in China In Spaces of Their Own: Women’s Public Sphere in Transnational China, ed Mayfair Yang, pp 35–67 Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press Yao, Souchou (2003) Confucian Capitalism: Discourse, Practice and the Myth of Chinese Enterprise London: Routledge Yue, Gang (1999) The Mouth that Begs: Hunger, Cannibalism and the Politics of Eating in Modern China Durham, NC: Duke University Press Yurchak, Alexei (2003) Mundane Life of Ideology Presented at the American Anthropological Association Annual Meeting, New Orleans, LA, 2003 Zagat (1986) New York City Restaurant Survey New York: Zagat Zagat (1990) New York City Restaurant Survey New York: Zagat Zagat (1992) America’s Top Restaurants New York: Zagat Zagat (2000) America’s Top Restaurants New York: Zagat Zagat (2000) New York City Restaurants New York: Zagat Zagat (2006) America’s Top Restaurants New York: Zagat Zagat (2006) New York City Restaurants New York: Zagat Zhang, Changlei (2003) How to Be a Good Capitalist, by Mao The Taipei Times December 25: Available from http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/world/ archives/2003/12/25/2003084844 References • 227 Zhang, Li (2001) Strangers in the City: Reconfigurations of Space, Power and Social Networks within China’s Floating Population Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press Zhang, Mei (2003) China’s Poor Regions: Rural Urban Migration, Poverty, Economic Reform and Urbanization London: Routledge Curzon Zukin, Sharon (1991) Landscapes of Power: From Detroit to Disney World Berkeley, CA: University of California Press Zukin, Sharon (1995) The Cultures of Cities Oxford: Blackwell Zukin, Sharon (1998) Urban Lifestyles: Diversity and Standardization in Spaces of Consumption Urban Studies 35(5–6): 825–39 This page intentionally left blank Author Index Allison, Anne 51, 63 Anderson, Brett 152, 164 Anderson, E.N 29 Appadurai, Arjun 95, 160 Ardener, Edwin 207 Axelrod, Morris 202 Barbas, Samantha 203, 204 Barndt, Deborah Basch, Linda 148 Batterberry, Ariane 114 Batterberry, Michael 114 Baudrillard, Jean 67 Baum, Dan 2, 114 Belasco, Warren 10, 36, 43 Bell, David 8, 61, 153, 160 Benton, Gregor 148 Beriss, David 13, 165 Bernardo, Rosemarie 62, 63 Berry, Wendell 43 Bestor, Theodore 10, 160, 164 Bird, Sharon 202, 203 Blanc-Szanton, Cristina 148 Bloomer, J Philip 77 Bodenheim, Barbara 25 Bodvarsson, Orn 192 Bonacich, Edna 149 Bourdain, Anthony Bourdieu, Pierre 43, 149, 206, 207 Boyes, William 192, 193 Boym, Svetlana 49 Braudel, Fernand 110 Brenner, Leslie 100, 101, 114 Brodkin, Karen 113 Brubaker, W Rogers 149 Bruni, Frank 99 Bubinas, Kathleen 7, 141 Burros, Marian 166 Burton, Marda 154 Burton, Nathaniel 162 Caldwell, Melissa 10 Caplan, Pat 149 Carrier, James 196, 203, 208, 211 Carsten, Janet 10, 25 Carter, Donald Martin 205 Castañeda, Quetzil 153 Castelvetro, Giacomo 167–8, 171, 182, 189 Castles, Stephen 138, 148 Chai, Jodi Endo 56 Chang, K.C 80 Chee, Bernadine 206 Chen, Tina 83, 96 Cohen, Leah Hagen 198 Cohen, Marilyn 143 Collin, Richard 151, 161, 162 Counihan, Carole 95, 187 Craig, Geoffrey Crang, Philip 5, 6, 19, 204 Cummings, Richard Osborn 114 Danko, Willam D 99 David, Elizabeth 42 Dávila, Arlene 153 Dela Cruz, Donovan 56 Denker, Joel 111, 112 DeNora, Tia 67–8, 74 Diner, Hasia 111, 113 Dong, Furen 148 Dornenburg, Andrew 114 Douglas, Mary 63, 80, 178 Duffy, Richard 111 Duneier, Mitchell 125 229 230 • Author Index Easterling, Mickey 155 Elie, Lolis Eric 161 Erickson, Karla 202–5 Esteva, Gustavo 36, 43 Fantasia, Rick Farquhar, Judith 80, 86 Ferguson, Priscilla Parkhurst 4, 159 Ferrero, Sylvia 8, 49, 153 Filippini, Alessandro 101 Fine, Gary Alan 6, 9, 25, 26, 33, 43 Finkelstein, Joanne 5, 67, 68, 77 Fitzmorris, Tom 154, 159 Florida, Richard 153 Fussell, Paul 120 Gabaccia, Donna R 107, 109, 111 Galatoire, Leon 161 Gatta, Mary Lizabeth 6, 13, 199, 202, 204 Gibson, William 192 Ginsberg, Debra 193, 199 Girardelli, Davide Gladney, Dru 83 Glick-Schiller, Nina 148 Gluckman, Max 185 Goffman, Erving 5, 6, 23, 203 Gold, S.J 138 Gold, Thomas 137 Goody, Jack 160 Graeber, David 203 Granovetter, Mark S 112 Greenhalgh, Susan 11, 141, 146 Habermas, Jurgen 43 Hall, Elaine 202 Hall, Trish 163 Hamilton, Gary 137, 148 Hannerz, Ulf 56 Harbottle, Lynn Harris, Mary 193 Harvey, David 207 Hart, Keith 203 Heffernan, William 43 Hendrickson, Mary 43 Herrmann, Gretchen M 208 Herzfeld, Michael 199, 200, 205, 206, 207–8 Hess, John 114 Hess, Karen 114 Hochschild, Arlie Russell Hoebel, Anderson 183 Hoffman, Lisa 93 Holditch, W Kenneth 154, 155–6 Hong, Paul 117, 120, 123 Howe, Alyssa Cymene 153 Howes, David 198 Hubbard, Amy 193 Hubbert, Jennifer 96 Ignatiev, Noel 113 Ikels, Charlotte 93 Jenkins, Nancy Harmon 166 Jenner, W.J.F 96 Jochnowitz, Eve 115, 119, 120, 122, 130 Johns, P.S 167 Kahn, Herman 136 Kalcik, Susan 56, 61 Kao, John 143 Kasinitz, Phillip 116 Kirschenbaum, Jacob 131 Kirshenblatt-Gimblett, Barbara 117, 119, 120, 127 Kishimoto, Fukuko 104, 113 Koh, Tommy 148 Krogstad, Anne Kugelmass, Jack 80 Kuh, Patric 101, 114, 159, 161 Kulick, Don 10 Kurlansky, Mark 10 Lagasse, Emeril 157, 161, 162 Landa, Janet 112 Lane, J.F 149 Laner, Mary Riege 202 Laner, Roy H 202 Author Index • 231 Latham, Robert 167 Latane, Bibi 193 Latour, Bruno 204 Laurier, Eric Legge, James 29 Leidner, Robin Leitch, Alison 153 Lem, Winnie 143, 149 Lemon, Alaina 198 Levenstein, Harvey 43, 98–9, 114 Li, Minghuan 134, 149 Li, Peter 146, 148–9 Lieberson, Stanley 102 Liechty, Mark Lien, Marianne Elisabeth 10 Light, Ivan 112, 138, 149 Litzinger, Ralph 83 Liu, Yia-Ling 148 Live, Yu-Sion 134 Lloyd, Timothy 122 Lombard, Rudy 162 Lockwood, William G 121, 123 Lockwood, Yvonne R 121, 123 Long, Lucy 10, 119, 153 Lovell-Troy, Lawrence 7, 137 Lowry, Helen Bullitt 108 Lutz, Brobson 155 Lynn, Michael 193 MacClancey, J.V 177 Malaby, Thomas M 206 Mann, Brenda 5–6 Manzo, Joseph T 97, 112 Markowitz, Fran 115 Mars, Gerald 5, 6, 167, 176, 195 Martens, Lydia 5, 6, 77, 203 Matthews, William 167 Massey, Douglas 134 McCaffety, Kerri 161 Meigs, Anna 95 Meneley, Anne 10 Mennell, Stephen 4, 122 Miele, Mara Miller, Mark 138, 148 Mintz, Sidney 10, 77, 163 Mitchell, Peter 167, 176 Modell, John 149 Moore, Mick 148, 149 Morgan, Helen 109 Mullener, Elizabeth 157 Murdoch, Jonathan Murphy, Rachel 143, 149 Mynier, K 193 Narayan, Uma 61 Nerlich, Brigitte 10 Nestle, Marion 10 Nicod, Michael 5, 6, 167, 195 Nolan, Peter 148 Nonini, Donald 148 Ohira, Rod 52, 56, 57, 60 Ohnuki-Tierney, Emiko 10 Oi, Cynthia 54, 56, 57, 58, 60, 61 O’Keefe, Kevin 77 Ong, Aihwa 148 Ongwat, Pareena 113 Ory, Pascal 165 Owings, Alison 7, 197, 199, 202 Page, Karen 114 Pairault, Thierry 134, 149 Parkins, Wendy Parris, Kirsten 148 Pastinelli, Madeleine Paules, Greta Foff 6, 13, 193–5, 199 Perry, Elizabeth 96 Pieke, Frank 148 Pillsbury, Richard Portes, Alejandro 112 Povinelli, Elizabeth 88 Prakash, Madhu Suri 36, 43 Pressey, Debra 77 Prewitt, Milford 152 Probyn, Elspeth Rascoll, Charles 102 Ray, Krishnendu 43, 104, 110, 113, 122 232 • Author Index Reardon, Joan 114 Redding, Gordon 136–7 Regis, Helen 153 Reiter, Ester Rind, B 193 Ritzer, George de Rochemont, Richard 98, 105 Rodrigue, Melvin 155, 165 Root, Waverley 39 98, 105, 114 Rosa, Craig 119, 131 Rose, Chris 152, 163 Roseberry, William 143 Roseman, Sharon 187 Ruggles, Steven 107 Sassen, Saskia 112 Sausmikat, Nora 96 Scapp, Ron 68 Schechner, Richard 116 Schein, Louisa 83 Scher, Philip 153 Schweder, Richard A 207 Scranton, Philip 10 Seitz, Brian 68 Seligman, Dan 193, 199 Sennett, Richard 77 Seremetakis, C.N 187 Sereni, Emilio 171 Shamir, Boas 197, 202–3 Shelton, A 77 Shriver, Jerry 164 Shternshis, Anna 130 Shteyngart, Gary 124 Simon, Scott 164 Simoons, Frederick 80, 95–6 Smart, Alan 143, 149 Smart, Josephine 7, 143, 149 Smith, Andrew 99, 114 Sokolofski, Leah 202, 203 Soloveitchik, Haym 118 Spang, Rebecca 4, 43 Speer, T 192 Spindel, Carol 78 Spradley, James 5–6 Stanley, Thomas 99 Staub, Shalom 115, 122 Steinberg, Stephen 111 Stephenson, Peter H Sterne, Jonathan 74 Stewart, Kathleen 48–9 Strohmetz, D 193 Su, Xiaokang 91 Surowiecki, James 193, 197 Sutton, David 13, 58, 95, 200, 203, 204 Szathmary, L 182 Taylor, Lawrence 196 Thomas, Jerry 98 Thompson, M 187 Trillin, Calvin 103 Trubek, Amy 4, 43, 163 Turgeon, Laurier Turner, V.W 206 Valentine, Gill 8, 61, 153, 160 Van Esterik, Penny 95 Veblen, Thorsten 98 Visser, Margaret 27 Vournelis, Leonidas 198, 201, 204 Wang, Luxiang 91 Warde, Alan 5, 6, 77, 203 Wasserstrom, Jeffrey 96 Waters, Malcolm Watson, James 9, 10, 95, 208 Watts, Jonathan 91 Weber, Max 136, 138 Weinreich, Beatrice 118 Weismantel, Mary 25 Weiss, Allen S 131 Weston, Kath 25 Whitaker, Jan 203 Whyte, William Foote 4, 176, 195 Wilson, Thomas 10 Wogan, Peter 203 Author Index • 233 Wong, Siu Lun 137, 148 Wu, Xu Yue, Gang 80, 86 Yurchak, Alexei 96 Yang, Fan 96 Yang, Guobin 96 Yang, Mayfair 96, 137 Yao, Souchou 146, 148 Zhang, Changlei 91 Zhang, Li 149 Zhang, Mei 149 Zukin, Sharon 8, 81, 89, 153, 159, 160 This page intentionally left blank Subject Index action 5, 21–2, 32, 34, 36, 197, 201 aesthetic 6, 9, 68, 82–3, 100, 113 aestheticization age/age-group 76, 88, 93, 136, 138, 141, 143, 150, 178, 202 agrarian utopia 35–6 ambience/atmosphere 17, 21, 58, 65, 67–8, 71–2, 74–6, 83, 128, 202–3 American cuisine/American food 39, 43, 97, 100, 102, 105, 110–11, 113, 159–60 American restaurants 19, 21, 23, 29, 97–9, 101–6 Applebee’s, Champaign, Illinois 65, 70–3, 76, 77 “art of living” 37–38 Asia 9, 50, 102–3, 106, 110, 134–6, 140, 147, 205 “a trouble case” 183–4 audience 19, 22, 96, 122, 129, 130 authenticity 4, 8, 11–12, 94–5, 120–1, 153–4, 160, 206 backstage 5, 18–20, 23, 129, 203 balance 6, 7, 17, 27, 29, 33, 61, 75, 107, 184, 186 banquets 80, 87, 99 bar 5, 19–20, 26, 32, 65, 72, 76, 127, 155 bar staff 26 behavior 8, 17, 19–20, 33, 104, 116–17, 130, 168, 174, 187, 192, 199, 202 behind the scenes 19–20, 35, 120 Black Earth (Heitudi) Beijing, China 82–4, 86–9, 95 “blocked mobility thesis”/thesis of “disadvantage” 149 blood (kin relations) 53–5, 58, 117 body/bodies 7, 17, 19–23, 58, 60, 83–4 brokers 3, 172, 180–1, 185 Caffe Florian, Chicago, Illinois 191, 196–7, 199, 204 capitalism 11–12, 136, 146–8, 192, 203, 206 Carmen’s China House, Illinois 25–6, 29–34 Castelvetro, Giacomo 168, 171, 179, 182 casual dining/family restaurants 11, 65–77 character 1, 3, 5, 20, 22, 41, 53, 87–8, 92–3, 98, 115, 161, 164, 193, 204 Cheddar’s, Champaign, Illinois 65, 70–6, 78 Chili’s, Champaign, Illinois 70–73, 75–6, 78 class (social class) 81, 83, 94, 98, 104, 108, 112–13, 119, 134, 152, 161, 164–6, 195, 199, 203, 205 clientele 12, 17, 23, 48–51, 56, 61, 72, 74–5, 103, 110, 112, 118, 125–8, 130, 153 closing down 11, 50, 57, 59–60, 65, 126, 176 collective/collectivity 92–3, 123–4, 137, 171, 173–5, 179–80, 185 collectivism 193 color (interior design) 29, 71–2, 124–5, 129 Commander’s Palace, New Orleans, Louisiana 157–9, 165 commodification 7–8, 11, 66, 204 commodity 12, 67, 81, 90, 103, 191–2, 198, 203–4 communitas “community” 9, 11, 25, 56, 60, 63, 66–7, 69, 71, 73–4, 77–8, 108, 115, 185 235 236 • Subject Index community (formation or construction of) 9, 11, 25, 56, 60, 63, 66–7, 69, 71, 73, 74, 77, 78, 108, 115, 117, 185 consortia 171, 180, 185 conspicuous consumption 98–9, 149, 173 consumption 1, 8, 10, 12, 19, 67–8, 71, 77, 79, 81–2, 86–7, 89, 91, 94, 95–9, 135, 149, 153, 159, 171, 173, 177, 187, 207 continental cuisine 97, 103–6, 109–10 corporate restaurants 69, 71 countercuisine 36, 40 Creole 2, 105–6, 151–2, 154–8, 161–2 cuisine de terroir 10 Culinary Institute of America (CIA) 103 culinary tourism 119, 130 culinary-based social history 51 cultural capital 81, 143 cultural life 1, cultural politics 80–1, 93 Cultural Revolution and themed restaurants 11, 79–96 dance of service (restaurant service as) 17–18, 20, 22–3 debate 3–4, 8, 10, 12, 88, 96, 152–4, 165 delicatessen 11, 47–50, 55, 110–11, 120, 135 deprivation 81–2, 86–7, 90, 92, 94 design food 61 interior/spatial 11, 19, 66–7, 69, 71, 77, 83, 117, 124, 126, 129, 202, 205 social 66, 67, 68, 74 sound 71, 73, 76–7, 129 Diamond Dairy, New York 126 dining out/eating out 2, 4, 6, 10–11, 66–7, 69, 71, 74, 77, 115 dining-room 5, 17, 19, 124, 127–8, 154–5, 170 discipline 25, 30, 32–4, 142, 206 distribution 10, 12, 68, 161, 184 domestic 1, 40, 85, 104, 106–7, 184, 195 drama 5–6, 21, 90, 92, 105, 107, 114, 152, 206 Dynamic Cultural Theory (DCT) 168, 186–7 Educated Youth (Laozhiqing) Restaurant, Kunming, China 83–4, 86, 91–2, 95 educated youth in China 85, 87–8, 90 embodied practices 25 “Emeril Network”/Food Network 159, 164 emigrants/immigrants 7, 11, 63, 97–114, 115–32, 133–48, 161, 208 “emotional taste”/emotional flavor 158–9 employee 21–3, 26, 33–4, 53–4, 65–6, 68, 71–3, 77–8, 106, 135, 139–46, 174, 180, 207 enclaves 187 environment 3, 9, 17, 25–6, 57, 66, 76, 87–8, 115, 121, 137, 162, 179, 185, 201 ethic Confucian 136, 146–7, 205 Protestant 136 ethnic cuisine 104, 162 dining/restaurants 8, 67 entrepreneurship/ethnic succession 11, 97–8, 111–13 food/foodways 61, 98, 108, 111, 113 groups 1, 36, 51 “ethnic people” 109, 205 ethnicity xii, 7–8, 11, 61, 77, 97, 101, 104–6, 110, 113–14, 123, 137 ethnography 4, 9–10, 13, 77, 192, 204 exchange 1, 4–5, 7, 9–10, 17, 21–2, 41, 67, 89, 144, 171, 185, 191–2, 194–5, 197, 199, 202–4, 208 reciprocal 144 theory of 191–204 “exoticness” 67 familial schism 183–6 familiar/familiarity 8, 41–2, 53, 65–78, 86, 94, 97, 112, 119–22, 125, 130–1, 139, 161, 162, 165, 193 familism 136–7, 142 family building 25 Subject Index • 237 family structure 26, 33, 184 fan 27, 29 fast food ix, 3, 7, 9, 11, 13, 47, 56, 58, 60–2, 68, 121, 167 female 6, 23, 27, 52, 54–5, 57, 84, 91, 118, 128, 185, 203 fictive kinship 69 financing 83, 174, 175, 180 fine dining 68, 98–100, 102–4, 109–10, 113, 152, 159, 162 Firebird Café, New York 124, 130 flavor 29, 36, 38, 40, 52–3, 58, 131, 159, 173 “flavor of the family” 52–3 food as “key to culture” 80 displayed 41, 49, 51–2, 58, 63, 120, 121, 131, 133, 135 foodways 61, 63, 116, 119, 121–2, 130–1 history 161 production 10, 68, 120 restrictions 80 French cuisine/France 38, 97, 105, 159, 161 friendship 22, 61, 87, 197 frontstage 5, 18–19, 23 Galatoire’s, New Orleans, Louisiana 151–65 gastronomy 170, 175 Gemeinschaft 9, 207 gender xii, 1, 3–5, 10, 12, 55, 61, 76–7, 84, 107, 173, 178, 201–3, 204 gender differences/gendered division of labor 7, 55, 84, 96, 141, 143, 152, 173, 177, 182, 184, 185, 203, 204 generosity 3, 52, 83, 196, 199–201 gentrification 159, 160, 164 genuine cuisine 163 Gesellschaft 9, 207 gift 12, 118, 169, 172–3, 177, 182, 191, 193–7, 199, 203–4 Gilberto, Galatoire’s server 151–7, 163–6 Gilded Age 98, 100 global 1, 3, 8, 10, 35, 60, 62, 69, 89, 96, 134–5, 138, 143, 147, 187, 207 globalization 3, 7–10, 12, 35, 61, 69, 71, 138, 147 gluttony 81, 87, 124 “grassroots postmodernism” 36 guanxi 137, 139 habitus 56, 138, 145, 149, 206–7 haute cuisine 3, 11, 100, 104, 159, 161–2, 164 hexis 206 holidays 26, 130, 140, 144–5 homestyle cooking 58 homogeneity/homogenization 3, 8, 9, 109, 153 honor 25, 117, 171–4 households 54–5, 134, 140, 171–3, 177, 184–5 Hungry Cowboy, Minnetonka, Minnesota 17, 20, 22 hybridity 11, 121–2, 135 identity 4, 8, 12, 25–30, 61, 63, 67–8, 71, 82, 90, 94, 109, 113, 115, 122, 130, 152–3, 164, 187, 201 ideology 11, 81, 89, 92, 94, 179, 196 ie 55, 64 imagined things 94, 109, 120 individual (humans) 6–8, 25, 33, 52, 54, 58, 75, 84, 86, 92, 117, 124, 137–8, 142–3, 147, 157, 184, 193, 197, 204, 207 individualism 193 inevitability of modernization 35, 37 intentionality 67 intentionality, corporate 77, 207 interaction “esoteric” 115 “exoteric” 115–16, 118, 122, 123 “mesoteric” 115 interior 23, 82, 89, 170 interrelatedness 25 interviews 6, 20, 23, 26, 49, 53, 58, 63, 78, 81, 114, 158 238 • Subject Index intimacy xi, 57–8, 69, 124, 204–5 inventory 26 Jewish cuisine 117, 123–4, 130 kashruth/kosher 117–19, 126, 128 kin 1, 7, 52–6, 58, 112, 135, 147, 180 kinesthetics 10 kinship 3–5, 7, 10, 25, 69, 137, 159, 180, 205 Kosher Restaurant, New York 122, 125–7, 130 K-Paul’s, New Orleans, Louisiana 158–9 L’Etoile, Madison, Wisconsin 36–43 labor 6, 7, 9, 11, 20, 25, 35, 50–4, 77, 83–4, 96, 97–114, 135–44, 152, 168–86, 206–7 Lagasse, Emeril 157, 159–60, 164 Le Salon Impérial, Paris, France 133, 138, 141, 143 leisure 81, 91, 95, 148, 158, 171, 174 lineage, chefly 157, 159 literature 8, 25, 68, 96, 114, 153 local 1–12, 36, 38, 43, 48, 58, 60–3, 65, 69–78, 79–93, 108, 119, 163, 168, 180–1, 185, 196, 206 localized location 8, 21, 23, 51, 59, 60, 80, 82, 93, 108, 127, 144 “logic of modernization” 36 Lotus Gardens, Paris, France 144 loyalty 25, 33, 34, 55, 57–8, 67, 112, 174, 184 male 6, 23, 27, 49, 55, 73, 125, 129, 137, 141, 154, 203, 207 marginal status/marginality 12, 62, 137–8, 141, 143, 148, 192 market 3, 7, 22, 41–3, 62, 68–9, 88–9, 94, 98, 108, 110, 112–13, 134, 168, 171, 187, 197, 203, 207 exchange 197, 203 marriage 55, 173, 180, 185 Mauss, Marcel 12, 195–6, 208 meals 5, 9, 20, 29–30, 33–4, 39, 47, 49, 51, 59, 62, 81, 109, 118, 122–7, 130, 135, 156, 176, 179, 182, 199, 202, 208 memorabilia 11, 69, 71–3 memorials/memorialization 81, 86–8, 95 memory 59, 77, 86, 95–6, 169 metaphor 5, 26, 80, 156, 162 methodologies 12, 36, 40, 42, 66, 103, 113, 141 migration 7, 11, 104, 112–13, 133–4, 138, 148–9 mnemonic 62 modernity 9, 35–6, 39–41, 43, 48, 60, 81–3, 88, 94–5, 101, 130, 161, 174, 191, 196, 200 modernization 35–7, 80, 207 money 22, 54, 59, 90, 93–4, 112, 144–5, 149, 172, 184, 191–2, 196–204 mood 17, 52, 193 morality/immorality 80–2, 87–8, 92–4, 96, 147, 172, 186–7 “multicourse postmodern menu” 36 museums 36, 39, 42, 85, 88, 95–6, 124, 131, 164 music 6, 11, 65, 67, 71–8, 116, 119, 123, 129–30, 163, 201 myth/mythology 124, 147, 156, 162, 196 nationalism 205 non-market nostalgia 8–9, 11–12, 47–64, 65, 84, 89, 94, 206–8 observation 1, 3, 6, 23, 33, 74, 132, 168, 200 okazuya 11, 47–64 “one and one-third rule” 176–7, 184, 186 opening/re-opening of a restaurant 1–2, 23, 37–8, 90, 92, 100–1, 110–11, 123, 130, 143, 154–5, 165, 170 palatibility 121 participant observation 3, 6, 23, 168 patrilineality 55 Subject Index • 239 patrons 3, 11, 59, 95, 104, 117, 123–4, 141, 144, 152, 155, 203 performance 201 personal/social relationships 4, 52, 56, 59, 61, 80, 90, 92, 137, 193, 196, 197, 200–1, 205 personas 5, 23 phenomena, total social 1, 3, 10, 12 phenomenology physical/physicality 7, 20–1, 53, 60, 61, 199, 205 policy 10, 86, 88–9, 92, 95, 147, 178 politico-economic process politics 3, 80–2, 85, 88, 91, 93, 148, 162, 185, 197, 205 polyglot cuisine 42 postmodernism/postmodernity 1–13, 36, 40, 154, 163–4, 205, 207 power 6, 21, 41, 60, 68–9, 72, 82, 85, 89, 93, 100, 103–4, 141, 143, 147–8, 174, 178, 184, 194–5, 201, 205, 208 preparation 4, 19, 25–32, 40, 50, 52, 79, 107, 133, 163, 173, 177, 181, 184, 187 presentation of food 27, 51 of the self or culture 23, 123 prestige 101–5, 112, 173, 177 price 58, 60, 105, 123–4, 155, 160, 168, 175, 181, 197–8 Primorski, New York 123–4, 130–1 private (vs public) 1, 3, 22, 79, 81, 95, 99, 117–18 production 1, 6, 9–10, 12, 22, 66, 68, 77, 91, 95, 117, 120, 125, 153, 171, 177, 179, 187 produits de terroir 39 public (vs private) 3, 12, 22, 35, 40, 42, 67, 69–71, 77, 81, 83–5, 87–8, 91, 95–6, 101, 103, 107, 117–18, 124, 131, 152, 154, 163, 191, 202–4 “purity of mission rule” 177, 186 race 4, 12, 61, 98, 107, 113, 152, 199, 205 Rasputin, Sheepshead Bay, New York 122, 128–30 reciprocity 144, 187 reform 81, 95, 134 regional cuisine/regional food 36, 39–42, 109, 160 Registan, Queens, New York 127–8 religion 119 remodels/updates 71–2 representation 84–8, 94, 152–4, 157, 160, 164–5 reputation 3, 52, 110, 156, 167, 180 resdor/resdora 173–4, 180, 182, 184, 185 Restaurant Belmondi, Emilia-Romagna, Italy 167–8, 183, 186 restaurant-caterer 133–5, 138–9 restaurant-traiteurs 135 Sagara Store, Waialua, Hawai`i 47–63 salt 10, 30, 114 satellite radio 75 scapes scenes 6, 18–20, 35, 65–8, 72, 78, 89, 92, 97, 103, 109, 111, 115, 120, 157 selection, of foods 27, 39, 169 self, the 23 self-exploitation 112 “self-orientalization” 11, 142 self-reliance/self-sufficiency 37–8, 88, 93, 170, 196 semiotics 69, 80 sensate mnemonics 49 sensual, the/sensuality 1, 21, 198 service exchange 17, 21–2 sexuality 1, 204 sharecropping 12, 169–75, 180–1, 183–4, 186, 207 shared substance 7, 10, 25 “simulacrum of sociality” 67 sites of sociality 52 skill 9, 60, 90, 93, 101, 117, 161, 173–4, 176, 183, 201 Slow food 9–10, 167, 207 smell 6, 49, 59, 169 social capital 112 social equality 82 social life 2–3 240 • Subject Index social mobility 172 social networks 7, 49, 137 social stratification 82, 95 socialism 81–2, 87, 89, 90, 92, 134 sociality 52, 55–6, 67 society 12, 22, 86, 93, 108, 112, 134, 141, 148–9, 152, 154, 159, 196, 202 soul cuisine 104, 110 sōzaiya 49 “space on the side of the road” 48–9, 60–3 spatial considerations 19, 21, 61, 69–70, 204–6 spectacle 115–32 stage 5, 10, 17–23, 124, 129–30, 163, 175, 203 state–society relations 86 status 4–5, 8, 20, 54, 80–2, 89, 93–5, 99, 141–2, 144, 164, 173, 195, 201–2, 208 subject formation 81 sugar 10, 49–50 suppliers 42, 111, 180, 185 symbolic economy symbolism 1, 6, 81, 90, 194–5, 198, 200 text 22, 108–9 texture 29, 36, 39 theater 8, 11, 117 theaters, great 116–17, 130 theaters, little 116–17 “thesis of Chinese culture” 11, 134–8, 147–8 thick description third space 203 tip/s rational 192–3, 199, 203 symbolism of 198–200 tipping practices 12, 191–204 tontine 139, 149 touch 20, 55–6, 59, 90, 97, 99, 205 tourists 12, 119, 121–3 125, 131, 153–5 tradition 4, 9, 11, 23, 35–6, 42, 65, 96, 111, 115–7, 130, 154, 158, 160, 167–87, 204, 207 tradition, mimetic 118 trust 53, 55, 58, 137, 192 take-out 11, 48–51, 97, 133, 135 technique 38, 40, 66, 79, 102–4, 121, 158, 160, 162, 168, 171 tension 12, 42, 203, 205 terroir 40 Weber, Max 89, 136, 138, 207 utopia 35–6 yin and yang 27, 29, 80 Zagat survey/ratings 101–6 ... Frontstage In the front of the house, the chaos continues The inadequate lobby has in a few short minutes overflowed into the restaurant The busser fills the ice bin and sweeps the floor The manager... this, the rising heat and energy of bodies arriving: the customers in the front door and the staff in the back They meet at the table All of the work done in the restaurant culminates at the table... the backstage of the restaurant and the subsequent obscuring of much of their labor contributes to their servile status, the backstage also protects them from the critical eye of the customer.3