Asian Dining Rules: Essential Strategies for Eating Out at Japanese, Chinese, Southeast Asian, Korean, and Indian Restaurants41427

ASIAN DINING RULES Essential Strategies for Eating Out at Japanese, Chinese, Southeast Asian, Korean, and Indian Restaurants STE VEN A SHAW For my late father, Peter Shaw, who taught me how to dine And for all those who came from Asia to the New World looking for a better life Contents Acknowledgments Vi Introduction Empires of the Mind: My love affair with Asian food begins The Asian Equation: When it comes to population, sometimes quantity is quality Turning the Tables: What this book is, and what it’s not Japa nese 19 Sushi Is My Wife: A history with swords and half-bird men 19 Sushi Rising: West meets East, West falls in love with East 27 Understanding Sushi 35 Beginner: Basic Sushi 35 Intermediate: Beyond the Basic Sushi Types 38 Advanced: Fresh to Fermented 41 iv CONTENTS Guerrilla Sushi Tactics 47 Beyond Sushi: Taking in the full scope of Japanese cuisine 58 Chinese 73 Good Luck in Cleveland: Great Chinese food lives in a strip mall 73 Chinese-Americans and American- Chinese Cuisine: A tale of two menus 81 Understanding Chinese Restaurants 85 Beginner: Gaming the Chinese Buffet 85 Intermediate: Dim Sum Survival Guide 94 Advanced: Breaking the Mold 97 Chinese Food and Health: Junk science and junk food 113 Southeast Asian 124 Indochine: Vietnamese from war to Wilmington 124 What’s Wrong with This Picture?: Why you’ve probably never been to a Filipino restaurant 129 The World of Southeast Asian Restaurants 136 Beginner: Thai 147 Intermediate: Vietnamese 152 Advanced: Cambodian 159 Tiny Kampuchea: Finding your inner Khmer 166 Korean 173 Strong Women: Korean food joins the mainstream 173 CONTENTS v Koreans in American: A hundred years of fortitude 176 Understanding Korean Restaurants 178 Beginner: Dipping a Toe into the Sea of Korean Cuisine 187 Intermediate: From Hot Pots to Raw Beef 201 Advanced: The Other Parts 202 Indian 209 Modern-Day Restaurant Moghuls: An Indian empire in Edison, New Jersey 209 Indian Cuisine in the West: The commonwealth of kebabs and the curious case of curry 215 Inside Indian Restaurants 220 Beginner: Basic Indian-Restaurant Dishes 223 Intermediate: Moving Beyond the Basics to Seafood, Rice, and Vegetable Dishes 230 Advanced: South Indian Cuisine 235 Banging the Drum for Indian Fusion 241 Conclusion 251 Ending the Tyranny of Authenticity: Accepting delicious developments 251 Index 257 About the Author Praise Other Books by Steven A Shaw Credits Cover Copyright About the Publisher Acknowledgments T he many restaurateurs, chefs, and other industry folks who made this book possible are not listed in these acknowledgments, but are, rather, named throughout this volume In addition, I’d like to thank: The many participants in the eG Forums online discussions at www.eGullet.org who offered invaluable advice, assistance, contacts, and moral support from the earliest stages of the project through its conclusion Those who wrote books, articles, and online resources that made my job easier In particular: Joel Denker, author of World on a Plate, a superb ethnic food history (Dr Denker also answered all my e-mails and phone calls and sent me many helpful references); Trevor Corson, author of The Zen of Fish, and Sasha Issenberg, author of The Sushi Economy, two great books on sushi; Eve Zibart, author of The Ethnic Food Lover’s Companion, a handy reference I always kept near me while I wrote; Jeffrey Steingarten and Alex Renton for their articles, in Vogue and the Guardian, respectively, on MSG, Chinese food, and health; Lynne Olver, creator of The Food Timeline vii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS (www.foodtimeline.org); and all the people who have contributed Asian-food information to Wikipedia Author Michael Ruhlman for introducing me to Annie Chiu; Connie Nelson of the Wilmington/Cape Fear Coast Convention & Visitors Bureau for introducing me to Solange Thompson; Gita Sweeney of the Gita Group for introducing me to Ratha Chau; Karen Schloss and Frank Diaz of Diaz*Schloss Communications for introducing me to the Mehtani family; and chef Brian Bistrong for introducing me to Jenny Kwak (and Ms Kwak for introducing me to her father, a font of wisdom on Korean-American history) My editor, Gail Winston, her associate, Sarah WhitmanSalkin, and copyeditor, Katherine Ness, for turning my manuscript into a book Also my previous editors at HarperCollins, Susan Friedland and Harriet Bell, for getting me this far My unofficial editorial team: my wife, Ellen Shapiro, my friend and colleague Dave Scantland, and my agent, Michael Psaltis, for pushing me to my best Wayne and Julie Shovelin for letting me use their beach house as a writer’s retreat My mother, Penny Shaw, for all the babysitting and countless other forms of assistance And my wife, Ellen, our son, PJ, and our bulldog, Momo, for filling our home with love 252 ASIAN DINING RULES of Asia Similar parallels can be drawn among Asian rice dishes, tofu dishes, tea rituals, wraps (Chinese moo shu and Peking duck pancakes, Korean ssam, Cambodian crepes, South Indian dosas), and more Viewed from a still higher altitude, the cuisines of the world display a startling degree of interconnectedness For example, hot peppers, so integral to the cuisines of many Asian nations, are actually a food from the New World Prior to Columbus’s voyages, there were no hot peppers anywhere else, and they took centuries to migrate and become integral to Asian cuisine Throughout this book, you’ve read numerous accounts of dishes and techniques migrating from one place to another, like Portuguese deep-frying as the progenitor of Japanese tempura You may have noticed that I’m a bit of a dumpling addict, but I come by it honestly: dumplings are found not only in Asian cuisines but all over the world, as in the Eastern European dumplings called pierogies and kreplach that my ancestors ate It’s no surprise that a while back the winner of a pierogi-making competition held in New York was a Chinese-American woman Though I’ve eaten so much Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indian, and Southeast Asian food that my Caucasian DNA could at any moment spontaneously resequence itself into Asian DNA, I’ve never spent much time in Asia I’ve enjoyed the limited time I’ve spent there tremendously (though I can’t say as much for the flight; my voluminous eating is evident in my bulk, which doesn’t take well to twenty hours in an economy-class seat) I’ve spent enough time in Asia, however, to know that the food in any given Asian country can be quite different from its typical representation in restaurants in North America Many of the dishes I enjoyed growing up, for example, are CONCLUSION 253 Chinese-American creations: the obese Americanized egg rolls I love so much, General Tso’s chicken, deep-fried egg foo yung with rich brown gravy It should hardly be surprising that as Asian cuisines have come to North America, they have adapted, evolved, and changed—just as they continue to adapt, evolve, and change back in Asia in response to contact with the West (one of the big culinary trends in Shanghai right now is the use of saffron) It seems beyond obvious to state that cuisine is ever-evolving, yet you wouldn’t necessarily pick that up from reading food magazines today Instead, the word you’re most likely to see used to describe a dish like General Tso’s chicken is “inauthentic.” Reading the glossy food magazines, the newsletters, and the Internet, and even when talking to educated gourmets, I get the sense that the authenticity police are everywhere these days Authenticity as commonly understood by today’s reigning culinary authorities refers to the preservation of “original” recipes, presented with some historical and cultural context In the language of Merriam-Webster, authentic means “conforming to an original so as to reproduce essential features.” But what if evolution itself lies at the core of authenticity? When hot chilies first appeared in China, did the local food cognoscenti protest, “We don’t use these things in authentic Sichuan cuisine”? No cuisine springs into existence as a fully formed entity, and all living cuisines evolve There was no tomato sauce—and there were certainly no sun-dried tomatoes—until centuries after the tomato first reached Europe from the New World We could just as easily imagine knee-jerk authenticity-based complaints about chocolate in France and wine in Australia If you 254 ASIAN DINING RULES dig really deep, you’ll probably find that at some point in prehistory the very notion of cooking beasts over a fire—instead of eating their bloody haunches raw—was scorned for its inauthenticity, too Fusion—the mixing of cuisines from around the world—is not some trend that started in the 1980s It is the very history of cuisine No corner of Asia, from Japan to India, was untouched by the forced fusion of the Mongol empire, or by trade with the West Since everything in the world of food likely had some precursory experience, wouldn’t it be smarter for us to make allowances for what “authentic” really means? If you ask me, such tolerance is necessary when you dine out in a place like the United States, where just about everybody came from somewhere else Asian chefs, on arriving in North America, found different ingredients, faced different challenges, and adapted They created new dishes and extended their native cuisines I believe these cooks demonstrate that authenticity isn’t a repetition of history Real authenticity, to me, is grounded in being faithful to oneself This is the last definition given by Merriam-Webster, but to me it is the most appropriate for cuisine: “true to one’s own personality, spirit, or character.” That’s why, despite their breaks with tradition, there’s nothing inauthentic about egg rolls, or Japanese restaurants with far-ranging menus Sometimes these concepts even get exported back to their parent cultures—for example with the opening of Nobu (a New York restaurant, based on a Los Angeles restaurant, serving Peruvian-influenced Japanese fusion cuisine) in Tokyo Change for its own sake is phony, but true originality is authentic To me, what makes North America a supremely dy- CONCLUSION 255 namic eating destination is exactly its unabashed dedication to what the old-school writers would call inauthenticity: the New World doesn’t attempt to hide the actuality that human history is built on immigration, assimilation, and invention Los Angeles is often referred to, here and in Asia, as Thailand’s seventy-seventh province, and similar claims are made about other immigrant communities The Asian communities of North America are as large as some entire nations, and they represent cultural and culinary evolution fully as robust as what’s occurring back home My memories of dining at Empire Szechuan would be utterly foreign to a resident of Sichaun province, but they’re the authentic experiences of my American life Rather than obsessing about historical notions of authenticity, I propose finding culinary validation within ourselves and accepting that tomorrow’s authenticity is always the child of today’s inauthenticity As Annie Chiu wisely said to me at Sun Luck Garden in Cleveland, Ohio: “If food is good, it’s good It doesn’t matter if it’s American, Chinese, Italian, even French If it’s good, it’s good Good food is good.” Index A Akami (sushi), 41 Amok (fish curry), 160, 225 Asian restaurants See also specific cuisines Asian fusion trends at, 242 “authenticity” of food at, 251–55 delivery workers at, 155–59 food photos and replicas at, 162–65 general dining strategies, 12–17 health codes at, 232–34 labor practices at, 155–59 low-rent locations, 150–52 menu prices at, 219–20 tipping at, 236–40 B Bangladeshi cuisine, 215, 216–17 Banh mi (Vietnamese sandwiches), 153–54 Bibimbap (Korean rice dish), 173–74, 192–93 Biryani (Indian dish), 231–32 Breads, Indian, 226–30 Bulgogi (Korean barbecue), 188 Bun (noodles), 154 C California rolls, 25, 29–30, 36 Cambodian restaurants, 159–61, 166–70 Cardoz, Floyd, 242, 244 Cha gio (spring rolls), 154 Chang, David, 178 Chau, Ratha, 166–70 Chicken tikka masala, 216, 226 Chinese restaurants advanced dining strategies, 100–104 buffets at, 85–91, 111–12 current trends in, 109–10 dim sum dining strategies, 94–97 Fuzhou cuisine, 83 history of, in North America, 81–83 Jewish customers and, 84–85 menu prices at, 219 menus at, 81, 110–11 most popular dishes at, 112 in North America, statistics on, 130 ownership of, 111 Shanghai dishes, 106–9 Sichuan dishes, 104–6 sodium and, 113–20 Chirashi-sushi (scattered sushi), 40 Chiu, Annie, 73–74, 76–77, 255 Cho Dang Gol (restaurant, New York City), 184–86 Chopsticks Chinese, 205 eating sushi with, 24–25, 207 history of, 204–5 how to eat with, 207–8 Japanese, 205 Korean, 205–6 Southeast Asian, 206 in Thai restaurants, 148, 206–7 Chu-toro (sushi), 41 Comerford, Cristeta, 131 258 Curry British, 225 Cambodian, 159–60, 225 curry pastes, Thai, 225 defi ned, 224–25 Indian, 216, 224, 225, 226, 231 Japanese, 225 Thai, 149–50 D Dandara (sushi), 41–42 Dim sum, 94–97 Do Hwa (restaurant, New York City), 173–76 Doo-boo chorim (fried tofu), 196 Dopeaja (Indian fish dish), 231 Dosas (Indian crepes), 241 Duck, tea- smoked, 106 Duck eggs, embryonic, 170 Dumplings, Chinese, 91–93, 107 Dumplings, Korean, 193 Dumplings, Tibetan, 245–50 E East India Company (restaurant, Winnipeg, Canada), 227–30 Egg foo yung, 75–76 Empire Szechuan Columbus (restaurant, New York City), 1–4 F Filipino cuisine, 131–32 Fish See also Tuna fried, Shanghai, 108 at Indian restaurants, 230–31 at Southeast Asian restaurants, 145 for sushi, 25, 29, 30, 41–42, 51–52, 70 Fish pastes, 128–29 Fish sauce, 128–29 Food safety issues, 27, 68–72, 232–34 Fortune cookies, 77–81 Fried Dumpling (restaurant, New York City), 91–93 Futo-maki (fat roll), 39 G Gamja jorim (tiny potatoes), 197 Gamja saluda (potato salad), 197 Gan guie (liver), 202 Goi cuon (summer rolls), 154 Goi du du (green papaya salad), 155 Golden Temple (restaurant, Brookline, MA), 84–85 Gunkan-maki (warship roll), 39 INDEX H Herbal medicine, 171–72 Hobak jeon (fried zucchini), 196 Hoso-maki (sushi), 35–36 Hunan K (restaurant, New York City), 120–23 I Ichiro, Mashita, 29 Ikeda, Kidunae, 117–18 Immigrants Asian, 158–59 Bangladeshi, 216–17 Chinese, 82–83 Japanese, 28 Korean, 177 Imperial Herbal Restaurant (restaurant, Singapore), 171–72 Inari-sushi (stuffed sushi), 39 Indian restaurants appetizer menu items, 223–24 breads served at, 226–27 buffets at, 91, 221, 223 dining strategies, 221–23 history of, in North America, 216–17 meat entrees, 224–26 northern Indian dishes, 220–23 ownership of, 215 rice and vegetable dishes, 231–32 seafood dishes, 230–31 South Indian dishes, 235–41 tandoori-cooked dishes, 221–22 vegetarian dishes, 232–35 Indochine (restaurant, Wilmington, NC), 124–27 J Jaffrey, Madhur, 243, 244 Japanese restaurants See also Sushi donburi dishes, 64–65 history of, in North America, 27–31 izakaya menu items, 67 Japanese phrases for, 60–61 kaiseki restaurants, 66–67 miso soup offerings, 65–66 noodle dishes, 62–63 numbers of, in North America, 31 ownership of, 31 shabu-shabu restaurants, 67 specialization in, 58 sukiyaki dishes, 63–64 tempura offerings, 61–62 teppanyaki restaurants, 66 teriyaki dishes, 64 Western influences on, 30 INDEX John, Thomas, 243, 244 Jook (rice porridge), 202 K Kampuchea (restaurant, New York City), 166–70 Kappa-maki (sushi), 36 Katiev (Cambodian soup), 160 Kimchi (Korean side dish), 184, 194–96 Kombu (seaweed), 117–18 K’ong namul (seasoned bean sprouts), 196 Korean restaurants characteristics of, 187 dining strategies, 179–84 history of, in North America, 176–78 hot pot dishes, 201 Korean barbecue, 176, 179–84, 187–92 low-lying tables, 184–86 mandoo (dumplings), 193 menus, 178, 180, 181 noodles, 201 offal dishes, 202–3 pajun (pancakes), 193 panchan, 183, 184, 193–97 recessed grills, 176 rice dishes, 192–93 special dishes, 202 vegetarian dishes, 203 Kung pao chicken, 105 Kuribara, Hideo, 19–24 Kwak, Jenny, 174–76 Kwak, My-ung Ja, 174 Kwok, Robert, 116–17 L Lap Khmer (Khmer beef salad), 161 Larb (Laotian salad), 149 Lau, Donald, 80–81 Louie, Edward, 79 Lynn, Michael, 237 M Maki sushi, 26–27, 35–37, 45–47 Mandoo (Korean dumplings), 193 Maneyama, Sadao, 20 Ma po tofu, 106 Mathur, Hemant, 243 Matsuhisa, Nobu, 31 Meatballs, lion’s-head, 107–8 Mehra, Kamal and Sudha, 228 Mehta, Jehangir, 244–45 Mehtani, Satish, 210 Mehtani, Shaun, 209, 213–14 259 Mehtani, Sneh, 209–14 Meyer, Danny, 242 Miso soup, 65–66 Momo (Tibetan dumplings), 245–50 MSG, 112, 116–20 Mulligatawny soup, 224 Mustard fish, 231 N Naan (Indian bread), 226, 227, 228–29 Nakji bokeum (stir-fried octopus), 202 Nare-sushi (matured sushi), 42–43 New Green Bo (restaurant, New York City), 98–100 Nguyen, Mimi, Ivy, and Megan, 136 Nhoam (Cambodian salad), 161 Nigiri sushi, 37–38, 53 Noodles Japanese, 62–63 Korean, 201 Sichuan, 104–5 Thai, 148 Num banchev (Cambodian crepes), 161 O Odeng (fish cakes), 196 Omakase (sushi tasting menu), 41 Oshi-sushi (pressed sushi), 39–40 O-toro (sushi), 41–42 P Pad see yew (Thai noodles), 148 Pad Thai (Thai noodles), 148 Pakistan, 215, 217 Pakoras (Indian fritters), 223–24 Paratha (Indian bread), 226–27 Park, Christine, 175, 176 Phnom Penh katiev (Cambodian soup), 160 Pho (Vietnamese soup), 153 Phuntsok, Sonam, 247 Pomfret (pompano), 230–31 Puri (Indian bread), 227 R Rice cakes, 108–9 Roti (Indian bread), 227 Ruhlman, Michael, 73–74 S Salor kor-ko sap (Cambodian soup), 161 Sam gyub sal (pork), 188 Samosas (Indian snacks), 223 Samuelsson, Marcus, 59 Saran, Suvir, 243 Sashimi, 38, 50–52 260 Seng gan (raw liver), 202 Shigeta, Hamanosuke, 28 Shigeumchi (seasoned spinach), 196 Shimofuri (sushi), 41–42 Shiraishi, Yoshiaki, 32–33 Sodium, in Chinese food, 113–14, 115, 117 Southeast Asian restaurants Cambodian, 159–61 characteristic flavors, 138 condiments used at, 137 dining strategies, 136–46 low-rent locations, 150–52 ordering seafood at, 145 ownership of, 142 seasonings used in, 128–29 sharing dishes at, 139–40 spicy foods at, 138–39 Thai cuisine, 147–50, 206–7 Vietnamese cuisine, 152–55 Spring rolls, 154 Sripraphai (restaurant, New York City), 138–39 Ssam (Korean BBQ wraps), 191 Subbiah, Danashekar, 236 Summer rolls, 154 Sun Luck Garden (restaurant, Cleveland, OH), 73–77 Super H-Mart (shopping plaza, New Jersey), 197–200 Surimi (imitation crab), 25 Sushi “advanced” types of, 41–43 “basic” types of, 35–38 definition of, 24 developing relationship with sushi chef, 53 dipping sauces for, 26 drinking red wine with, 54–57 eating, during pregnancy, 68–72 eating, with chopsticks, 24–25, 207 fish used for, 25, 29, 70 guerrilla sushi tactics, 47–53 health risks from, 27, 68–72 history of, in North America, 27–31 “intermediate” types of, 38–41 kaiten sushi (conveyer-belt sushi), 31–35 myths about, 24–27 preparing at home, 27, 43–47 sashimi, ordering, 50–52 sitting at sushi bar, 47–49 sushi platters, ordering, 40–41 taking sushi chef’s advice, 52–53 talking with sushi chef, 49–50 Sushi-ko (restaurant, Washington, D.C.), 54–57 INDEX T Tabla (restaurant, New York City), 241–45 Takayama, Masa, 29 Tamago yaki (sushi), 38 Tandoori-cooked dishes, 221–22, 226 Tandoori ovens, 227–30 Tekka-maki (sushi), 36 Te-maki (hand roll), 39 Thai cuisine, 132–33, 147–50 Thai Mint (restaurant, New York City), 142–45 Thai restaurants, 206–7 Thompson, Solange, 124–27 Tibet Shambala (restaurant, New York City), 245–50 Tibetan restaurants, 246 Tipping practices, 236–40 Tofu, in Korean cuisine, 203 Tofu, ma po, 106 Tokijiro, Nakajima, 28 Tom kha gai (Thai chicken soup), 149 Toro (sushi), 41–42 Tuna bluefin, 29, 30 cuts of, for sushi, 41–42 judging quality of, 51–52 U Umami flavors, 54–55, 117–18, 129 Ura-maki (sushi), 36–37 Ushiwaka Maru (restaurant, New York City), 19–24 Utagawa, Daisuke, 54–57 V Vietnamese cuisine, 152–55 Vij, Vikram, 243, 244 W Waiters and waitresses, 236–40 Wasserman, Becky, 55 Wine, with sushi, 54–57 Wok cooking, 233–34 X Xiao lung bao (soup dumplings), 107 Xie, Betty, 109–12 Xie, Jian, 157 Y Yeunkeun jorim (seasoned lotus root), 196 Yukhwe (raw beef), 202 About the Author STEVEN A SHAW, aka “The Fat Guy,” is the founder of the phenomenally successful eGullet website, a James Beard Award– winning food critic, and a contributor to Saveur, Crain’s New York Business, and many other publications He lives in New York City with his wife and son Visit www.AuthorTracker.com for exclusive information on your favorite HarperCollins authors Advance Praise for Asian Dining Rules “What impresses me about Steven Shaw is not that he’s mastered Asian decorum, but that he’s mastered almost everything in the food world Nobody should be that gifted I’m twice his age, and I’m constantly learning from him.” —Alan Richman, columnist for GQ and author of Fork It Over: The Intrepid Adventures of a Professional Eater “Steven Shaw is the dining companion we all yearn for when eating unfamiliar foods in unfamiliar places He is warm, wise, and goes out of his way to make us feel as informed (and well fed) as possible.” —James Oseland, editor in chief of Saveur, author of Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore “As you order the shrimp fried rice and General Tso’s chicken for the eight hundredth time, you eye the guests to your left They have, apparently, seen a secret, far superior menu Hungry reader, they read this book.” —Phoebe Damrosch, author of Service Included “Steven Shaw has performed a great service, and excuses for unimaginative and timid ordering in Asian restaurants are no longer allowed Asian Dining Rules significantly expands our eating horizons and we don’t even have to leave the neighborhood For millions of diners this means it’s a potentially revolutionary, and essential, book.” —Ian Jackman, author of Eat This: 1001 Things to Eat Before You Diet “Whether you’re a General Tso’s chicken freak who has a hard time using chopsticks or an ultra-refined sushi aficionado looking for your next fugu fix, you’re sure to find something informative, entertaining, and/or diverting in Steven Shaw’s Asian Dining Rules Shaw’s book is a refreshingly unsnobby and a discerning must-read for any serious Asian food eater.” —Ed Levine, founder, Seriouseats.com ALSO BY STEVEN A SHAW Turning the Tables: The Insider’s Guide to Eating Out Credits Designed by Renato Stanisic Cover design by Alison Forner Chopsticks © by Michele Lugaresi/istockphoto.com Copyright ASIAN DINING RULES Copyright © 2008 by Steven A Shaw All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the 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Japanese, Chinese, Southeast Asian, Korean, and Indian (I say groupings because there are, for example, many different regional cuisines of Southeast Asia.)... interested in hard data about Asian immigration and how it relates to the popularity of different types of Asian restaurants, you’ll find that discussion in the Southeast Asian chapter; and the advice