Here are some common metals, along with their properties: Stainless steel is very easy to maintain—as its name implies, it won’t rust or pit, no matter how much you mistreat it But it also is an extremely poor heat conductor What this means is that heat will not travel rapidly through it Stainless steel pans tend to develop distinct hot and cold spots that match the heat pattern of your burners This can lead to uneven cooking, resulting in, for example, an omelet that’s burned in some spots and still raw in others How do you gauge the heat distribution performance of a pan? The easiest way is to spread a thin layer of sugar evenly over the bottom, then heat it over a burner The pattern in which the sugar melts will indicate the pan’s hot and cold spots A great pan will melt sugar very evenly Aluminum is a far better conductor of heat—one of the best, in fact It’s also a very inexpensive material Why aren’t all pans made of aluminum, you might ask? Well, there are two problems It’s not very dense, which means that despite its high-heat capacity, you’d need a pan that’s a ridiculously unwieldy thickness for it to retain a reasonable amount of heat Furthermore, it discolors and pits if exposed to acidic ingredients: wine, lemon juice, tomatoes, etc Anodized aluminum has been treated to give it a ceramiclike finish that is reasonably nonstick, as well as resistant to acid This is the ideal metal for cooking foods that don’t require an extraordinarily high level of heat You wouldn’t want to sear a steak in an anodized aluminum pan, but nothing is better for cooking an omelet Copper is even more conductive than aluminum It’s also quite dense, with a great heat capacity But copper pans are very expensive I’d love to have a great set of copper pots I’d also love to have a lifetime supply of Stilton and a yacht with an onboard petting zoo It ain’t gonna happen If you can afford a set of copper pots, you are a much richer person than I For the rest of us, let’s move on Laminated, or tri-ply, pans offer the best of both worlds Generally, they are constructed with a layer of aluminum sandwiched between two layers of stainless steel They have the high density of a stainless steel pan, with the great conductivity of aluminum, making them the pan of choice for most home cooks (including me!) Time was that nonstick pans were pretty tough to recommend Coatings that flake off or give off noxious fumes when heated too much are not something you want to be cooking with These days, nonstick coatings are more durable and far safer You’ll want to own at least one good nonstick pan for egg cookery The subject of cast-iron cookware is so divisive that I feel the need to go into a little bit more detail about it Being a proud owner of both a puppy named Hambone and some really nice cast-iron cookware, I’ve found that they are remarkably similar in many respects They both require a little work, a little patience, and a whole lot of loyalty The main difference is that in return for my investment, my castiron pans give me golden brown fried chicken, sizzling bacon, corn bread, apple pies, well-charred hash, perfectly seared steaks, bubbly pizzas, and crisp dumplings Hambone, on the other hand, gives me mostly licks, chews, and a whole lot of poop You do the math ... sandwiched between two layers of stainless steel They have the high density of a stainless steel pan, with the great conductivity of aluminum, making them the pan of choice for most home cooks (including me !) Time was that nonstick... pots, you are a much richer person than I For the rest of us, let’s move on Laminated, or tri-ply, pans offer the best of both worlds Generally, they are constructed with a layer of aluminum... fumes when heated too much are not something you want to be cooking with These days, nonstick coatings are more durable and far safer You’ll want to own at least one good nonstick pan for egg cookery The subject of cast-iron cookware